Bows, ruffles, pastel tones and baby doll dresses merge to elevate a hyperfeminine style with a baroque soul that seeks artificiality. Maximalism is displayed in all its splendor. We are referring to the coquette aesthetic , whose reign seems to have no end in sight, at least in this spring-summer season that we have just begun. Although this trend is not really new, in recent months it has reached a notable level of virality on social networks, specifically on TikTok in early 2024. With the hashtag #coquette, this instant video platform, which especially captivates the Generation Z, accumulated more than 18 billion views. This figure far exceeds its main competitor, Instagram, which registered nearly 1.5 million related publications.
This phenomenon shows how an aesthetic that seemed relegated to oblivion, with the exception of certain Japanese urban tribes, resurfaces strongly and is once again at the centre of attention of current fashion. We already know that the new generation of young people is fascinated by the nostalgic element, in a phenomenon that experts have described as an aesthetic revisionism of past trends.
Coquette style identified ?
Among all the descriptions offered to define this style that perfectly fuses femininity, innocence, sweetness and softness, the one provided by stylist Marisa Ledford in People magazine stands out, who describes it as “a hyperfeminine style that refers to the Victorian era. of the Regency, where doll dresses, ruffles, bows and pastel colours are the distinctive elements.”
This hyperfeminine trend experienced a rebound in 2010, coinciding with two cultural phenomena that generated great interest for months and that, in turn, fueled the fashion industry: the premiere of the film ‘ Marie Antoinette ‘ by Sofia Coppola and the rise of Lana del Rey as one of her main style icons. In fact, the singer and songwriter was on everyone’s lips again recently thanks to the campaign she starred in for the brand Skims to celebrate Valentine’s Day. This campaign included all the references that identify the flirty trend: abundant bows, transparencies, cats and delicate fabrics such as satin and lace.
Recently, another cinematographic phenomenon has given new impetus to the hyperfeminine and, incidentally, hyperbolic style: the Oscar-winning science fiction film, ‘ Poor Things ‘ , which has won, among other distinctions, the award for best costumes. This film characterizes its main character, Bella Baxter, as a Victorian woman with a wardrobe that revolutionizes the classic by maintaining a contemporary look that is reflected in each of the eccentric and stimulating looks in terms of shape, volume, relief and colour. Creations such as dresses with ruffles and puffed sleeves, Victorian bloomers, long silk robes or lavish nightgowns leave the viewer speechless and are reminiscent of the style in question: flirty is captivating.
On the other hand, the fact that this trend is still more alive than ever is also corroborated by fashion brands that make the flirty style their usual hallmark. For example, in its spring-summer 2024 collection, Rodarte was inspired by a flower garden and the silhouettes of the 1930s. Likewise, Simone Rocha presented for the same season voluminous bows, lace, tulle and flowers such as main elements of its collection, both in its feminine and masculine proposal. It is not necessary to review the trends of big brands, since small designers also opt for this style that enhances girlish femininity. For example, the creations of Quique Vidal through Becomely , his fashion alter ego, or the fantasies of Anel Yaos . In the collection presented last year on the 080 Barcelona Fashion catwalk, there were clear allusions to this aesthetic in a proposal that explored the most personal feelings through chiffon, transparencies and pastel tones.
Historical origin of the coquette aesthetic
The word ” coquette ” comes from French and means flirty. As a style, it takes elements from 18th century clothing, with a strong inspiration in the late Rococo of Queen Marie Antoinette, from which it incorporates decorative elements of clothing such as bows and lace. Likewise, it is based on the “infamous” chemise à la reine dress , a garment generally made of cotton and used as underwear, but which Marie Antoinette transformed into semi-transparent muslin, with ruffles on the chest and sleeves, with which The queen decided to spend her days in the countryside.
Perhaps the most iconic element of the style coquette, or at least the easiest to distinguish, is the bow or bow, which is used in both hair and clothing. This use dates back to the fashion of the romantic period, at the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century, when after the revolutions and the rise of the Republics, femininity became relevant again. This was reflected in the clothing and the decorations in them as an element associated with social class, since for the most part there were no longer monarchies.
A trend rooted in the street
Although these origins date back several centuries, their arrival in current fashion is framed in the revisionism of Generation Z, which now resorts to various aesthetics from the 90s and 2000s. Another factor that contributes to the triumph of this style It is how he has conquered urban looks. Thus, far from being saturated, they are the influencers themselves and fashion prescribers who star in street images style most talked about and, they certainly don’t seem to be tired of this trend. During the last fashion show season, it was not difficult to find references to this trend: bows adorning all types of garments, whether more or less extravagant, more or less romantic, present in the hair and even attached to the face, as well as allusions to the universe childish, such as the usual combination of shoes with openwork socks and bows, and the pastel colour palette. Without forgetting the red carpets where Hollywood stars parade. In fact, the flirty style has also starred in some looks at the 2024 Oscars celebration . This is attested to by the stylists who dressed actresses like Ariana Grande, who dazzled on the red carpet with a puffy pink number with a strapless neckline and train by Giambattista Valli Couture. Also Chloë Sevigny and Sofia Vergara, who wore flirty bows at the Oscars after- parties.
At Gratacós, we also wanted to pay our own tribute to the coquette style with a selection of our new season fabrics, so that you can be inspired and create your own designs within this very feminine, fanciful and girlish aesthetic.
