It awakes passions and drives crazy the professionals of the sector. Shoes are a lot more than a fashion obsession. They are the essential accessory to complete a look or more so, define one. In the busy quarter of Gràcia, renowned for its designer shops, there is a space that is leading the way with the originality of its creations.
With a French name, a Spanish origin and a British inspiration, Les Chausseurs is one of those brands whose shop bears the same name, and where one can find genuine works of art. Situated in the Martínez de la Rosa 67 street, it specializes in men and women’s footwear and reinterprets the classic English styles such as the Oxford shoes or the Chelsea boots. This project was launched in 2015 by the entrepreneur and designer Lambert Perera –renowned for also being the creator of the shoes and accessories brand Mus&Roew. Together with his partner María Reyes, they dedicate all their efforts in maintaining the business afloat, and so far it is booming. Thanks to their presence in specialized trade fairs, the network of international customers is continually growing and next year they are already planning to open a second shop and a corner in a shopping centre in Korea.
The footwear is designed in Barcelona and produced in Almansa. It is intended for the modern day dandy looking for the comfort of a good sole without forgoing style. City dwellers that wish to combine elegance with sport for every day wear and appreciate the value of exclusivity and beauty this handicraft bears. Aswell as the shoes, there are other accessories in Les Chausseurs that maintain the same line. For example the Bulgarian silk scarves by Shevitza, the Many Mornings unisex socks, jewellery made by the Madrid based brand Pena Jewels and the interior design pieces by the Basque brand Banoa.
In Gratacós we appreciate design, brands with their own name and charming businesses like this one by Lambert Perera who we have had the pleasure of seeing purchasing in our shop. Who knows…perhaps in the future we will see a new model elaborated with our fabrics!
Banoa,
gratacos,
Lamebert Perera,
Les Chausseurs,
Made in BCN,
Many Mornings,
Mus&Roew,
Pena Jewels,
Shevitza,
TeJidos Barcelona,
Zapatos de diseño
The intersection of 57th Street and 5th Avenue in Manhattan provisionally has a new name “Bill Cunningham Corner” and pays tribute to the legendary photographer and fashion portraitist who died three weeks ago at 87. This is where Bill Cunningham used to position himself on top of his old bike with his Nikon camera on his particular hunt down of the most striking styles. Indigo blue blazers, beige trousers and an astuteness to spot fabrics, accessories and details on his targets. Whether every day passers by or famous celebrities such as Greta Garbo who he captured walking down the street without recognizing her. “I’m only interested in their outfit” he used to say. He later displayed his results in the The New Work Times in a photographic column for New York fashion that since 1978 became one of the most sought after sections for the readers.
In fact, the mission of this legendary visual chronicler was to identify each week the fashion trends in the city. His portraits reflected the extravagant characters he came across, just as long as they were in line with that aura of style he looked for. The director of Vogue, Anne Wintour, suggested “we all dress up for Bill”. In 2008, the French government awarded him the “Legion de Honor” prize and in 2009 he was nominated “living legend” of New York. In the same city where he carried out his work, always taking a discreet back seat, seeking out the groundbreaking street fashion, which was really what was successful off the catwalks. Not for nothing, he was referred to as the street style king amongst New York society.
In 2010, the documentary, “Bill Cunningham New York” directed by Richard Press talked about the person behind the character. An audiovisual piece of work that revealed that Bill was much more than a street photographic and his passion for fashion was as equally intense as his work ethics. He was born in Boston in 1929, in the bosom of an Irish family, and before the New York Times he worked for the Chicago Tribune and the Daily News. He started out designing hats and later progressed to the magazines Details and Women’s Wear Daily. In 1967 he owned his first camera and could not give up his hobby of photographing people to document everything that caught his attention.
Bill Cunningham took off in an avid industry of individualisms and passing phenomena. Everybody wanted to be in one of his instant photos but Bill stayed on the sidelines. Even when he assisted the most prestigious fashion shows and high key parties, the visual chronicler maintained his distance. “This way you can be more objective” he assured. Actually, money never interested Bill, known for his modesty and austerity. “Money is the cheapest thing that exists. The most expensive is freedom” he used to say. And we all know that style cannot be bought, even at a time of extreme consumerism. These enduring principles and his expertise on picking up on the peculiarities of the New Yorkers outfits, have glorified the figure of Bill Cunningham leaving behind a deep legacy – aswell as a lesson in life inside the ephemeral empire. In his obituary, the editor of the Times was very precise “The powerful and rich in the fashion world wanted him by their side, but he remained one of most charming, kind and humble persons I have ever met. We have lost a legend and I am personally distraught to have lost a friend, concluded with regret Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr.
Samuel Alarcón has once again shown his talent for knitting needles with his new project ‘Etimología del Yo’, presented last week at 080 Barcelona Fashion. The young designer from the Canary Islands –who currently resides in Barcelona, reflected on identity through the agender trend. He did so by making the common theme of his project clothes that do not differentiate gender. This groundbreaking project marks a turning point for the current canons of beauty that are displayed on the catwalk.
Knitted garments are the main form of expression in his collection. Actually, it forms part of Samuel Alarcón’s identity. Aswell as the star fabric, the young talent used other materials to define his style on the catwalk, some of which were acquired in Gratacós. For example the wool crepe in brown, off white and pink shades, that he mixed masterfully with other colours such as black and yellow creating inviting colour blocks.
His collection for next summer also included details that did not get left unnoticed. Romantic key hibiscous flowers on the chest, endless tassles that portrayed movement and voluminous waists in trousers for both men and women. For Samuel Alarcón there are no distinctions because fashion is the same for everyone.
Find the Gratacós fabrics the designer has used here: http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/en/
It is the colour of purity, it reminds us of innocence and symbolizes peace. White is everlasting. Alien to passing trends, in summer it becomes an essential adding light and brightness to outfits at the hottest time of the year.
White is incredibly versatile and can be worn anytime anywhere. Whether during the day, or at night, it can impregnate with cleanliness tailor made style jackets, palazzo trousers, crop tops, bohemiam style fluid dresses or elegant semitransparent silk shirts. In accessories, it teams well with silver grey creating futuristic inspired pieces.
This season the total white look – white from head to foot – is still in. Minimalist style garments with clean cuts and straight lines that take us back to the refined style of the 90s with brands such as Calvin Klein or Michael Kors. An exquisite combination that has conquered once again both the catwalks and the low cost collections.
The richness of white and its less pure tones such as ivory, bone and cream resides in the combination of fabrics and textures to create immaculate outfits full of different shades that are pleasant to look at and feel. The subtlety of crepe, the floral details of jacquard, the rustic aspect of certain organzas or the romantic look lace mosaics. Without a doubt, the perfect blank canvas to see the peculiarities of each fabric.
In Gratacós, we adore white and we offer you a large range of fabrics for you to conjure up your summer outfits: http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/en/inspiracion/talco
July marks the beginning of the summer sales. The most sought after articles of the season are transformed into tempting offers at lower prices. It is time to treat yourself to some affordable luxury or fill your wardrobe with basic garments made up of versatile fabrics that never go out of fashion.
In the Gratacos shop in Riera de Sant Miquel, 9, we will also be on sale with attractive offers on many items. So, as from tomorrow 1st July, you will be able to buy our quality fabrics and materials with discounts up to 50%. As usual, our team of professionals will be there to offer personalized advice to each customer, taking into account the designs they want to carry out with the selected fabrics. Our team understand not only fashion, but also needs. For this reason they always recommend the most efficient formula to achieve maximum customer satisfaction.
Before visiting us, if you wish, you can review our extensive catalogue on our online shop and browse through all the materials, fabrics, prints and colours that we have to organize your possible purchases. We invite you to take a look here
Once in the shop, you will see that we have taken the opportunity to change our window display. This original set up has been made by our favourite architect and interior designer Antonio Iglesias, who also designed the new fashion space for Gratacós.
We look forward to seeing you there!
In its eagerness to support local talent and maintain synergies, Gratacós has teamed up wth the designer and illustrator Lara Costafreda. This professional in watercolours lives in Barcelona and is very linked with fashion. This year, the young artist has been given the task of designing the pattern on our tote bag, coinciding with the close relationship that exists between illustration and fashion and the rise of this versatile professional who studied in Barcelona, London (Central Satin Martins) and Rio de Janeiro. This has been an enriching experience for Lara Costafreda too. “Designing this bag has been like a nostalgic trip to the past” she explains. Back then, the illustrator studied design in the BAU school in Barcelona and never missed any of the Gratacós news. “I remember spending many afternoons in the shop looking and touching the new fabrics” she claims.
Do you still not know who is Lara Costafreda?
Lara Costafreda is unbridled creativity and her multidisciplinary talent is already renowned in the fashion industry Included in her portfolio are various first hand projects with Hermès, Cartier and Carolina Herrera. Also magazines such as Elle, Marie Claire and Glamour, or publishers such as Planeta and Gustavo Gili, specialists in design.
Lara Costafredos style is easily recognized. Flowery patterns, luxuriant plants, romantic ornaments and ethereal muses that ingeniously decorate her work and take us to a dreamy universe with surrealist tinges inspired in the Mediterranean.
This year, the designs made by the young illustrator have been used to decorate shoes made by the brand Arrels Barcelona, Joid’art jewellry and the book “Breve Historia de la Moda” by Gustavo Gili.
Lara is constantly receiving work offers and next year is preparing her own publication. We will look out for it. ..
Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco are the creators of Comillo de Morsa, one of the most sought after independent labels inside “made in BCN” design. The brand, born in 2010, marked a turning point at the fashion show EGO Cibeles Madrid. It led them to exhibit their creations at the Paris show “Who’s Next” aswell as other significant achievements. This marks the start of a slow but steady international expansion as now they are concentrating on consolidating their work within Spain. Colmillo de Morsa has its own shop in the unique neighbourhood of Gracia, but is gaining presence in other designer spaces. It must be for a reason…
Your brand name is surprising. How did you come up with it?
Elisabet- Our name is a reflection of the concept of beauty. The tusk is a reference to ivory, a precious and valuable material. If it comes from the walrus it adds a more grotesque tone. We like the symbiosis of ideas because it is a way of expressing that beauty comes in many ways and can be found in the most unlikely of places. It all depends on who is looking at it and what they can find.
How has Colmillo de Morsa changed since your first catwalk show in Madrid? How have you evolved?
Javier- The essence is still there. We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles. Obviously there has been changes in structure because we have expanded and we adapt to the customer, but our way of thinking and approach to the brand is the same.
“We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles”
What is this essence you refer to?
Elisabet- In each collection we look for timeless models, checking patterns and key garments with classic cuts. In terms of fabrics, we like to work with silk, cotton, cashmere…We also have a second line made up of basic garments with a more casual touch for day to day wear. Everyone looks for comfort and a carefree style.
So, the creativity is present but you listen to the customer’s needs….
Javier- Exactly, creativity and design remain intact. We have simply expanded our criteria and offer a more diversified product but always within the same parametres.
Really, and what are those?
Javier- Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme. The clothes are made up responsibly here in the local workshop using environmentally-friendly materials. The customers confide in us because they now we offer design with quality.
“Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme”
That is the importance of finding your own personality within a saturated market…
Javier- Exactly. In Colmillo de Morsa we do not get carried away by trends. It is something we are very clear about and we like to do our own thing.
Elisabet- As we don’t compete with the fast fashion it seems pointless to be lagging behind market trends. What we strive to do is to make our product following our design and quality rules.
What role does Gratacós play in the creative process?
Elisabet- Firstly, it gives us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material that will achieve amazing results. Also, the huge variety of products they offer. In Gratacós we can buy all types of silks, georgette, organza…also the jacquards when we are looking for a something special for the most detailed garments in the collection.
“Gratacós give us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material”
Local brand with international expansion. Where are you heading?
Elisabet- Now we are in a transitional phase. It is true that a few years ago, we had international presence at fairs where we publicized our product, gained new customers and we sold in Singapure, Dubia, United States….The problem in the end was that by wanting to do so much, it limited our day to day because bear in mind we were a small team and we take of practically everything. Now we have an agent who looks after the international sales but we are concentrating more on the national market.
What are your goals for 2017?
Javier- Now Julia- Elisabet’s daughter-is with us, we want to concentrate more than ever on our shop. Even so, we are always on the lookout for new spaces to expand our workshop and we make new contacts to supply clothes to designer shops. We do not rule out the possibility of opening a new shop, but we will see.
Would you like Julia to be a designer?
Elisabet- Not at the moment – she laughs – she can decide herself when she is older…
The Gratacós questionnaire…
Your essential garment … A printed shirt
A fetish fabric… Any type of silk
A colour you would never forgo… Black
The designer you admirer… Sarah Burton (Javier) and Jil Sander (Elisabet)
An infallible style rule… Always have at hand a good coat or an oversized shirt
Your favourite space in Barcelona… The Korean barbeque Yalujiang situated in Roger de Flor
A piece of advice for designers starting up… They should be clear on the what, where and for whom before launching
Your “leitmotif” … Do what you like
080 Barcelona Fashion is back. From the 27th June to the 1st July, this Catalan catwalk show will exhibit the Spring-Summer 2017 collections of around 30 native brands. These include textile brands, dedicated designers and new talents. The objective of this event is to consolidate Cataluña as a benchmark for design in all its variations – creation, production, training and promotion and thus contribute to the internationalization of the sector.
The catwalk shows of this 18th edition will take place in Catalonia`s National Physical Education Institute based in the Olympic Ring on Montjuic. It is here where the training and culture values of sport that define the Catalan capital are reflected. This edition aims to “get Catalan fashion into shape” in a more festive environment and in a more participatory way.
As specialists in fashion, Gratacós have always worked side by side with designers, offering them their premises for enquiries, consulting and commercialization of fabrics that will be used to make the garments of the new season. In this edition of the Catalan catwalk show, Brain & Beast and Samuel Alarcón are two of the brands that have confided their trust in us.
Brain & Beast
This transgressive brand was created by Ángel Vilda in Barcelona in 2010. From the very beginning, his collections do not leave anyone indifferent. Messages, guessing games, juxtapositions of fabrics….Each season his garments emphasize the pop culture with agender silhouettes where sophistication goes hand in hand with comfort together with high dosis of humour.
Samuel Alarcón
This new design talent started out in the 080 Barcelona Fashion after receiving the Creativity Award at the Modafad show – the platform for the young up and coming. He set the bar high. Born in the Canary Islands but now based in Barcelona, Samuel Alarcón specializes in tricot, which he uses to experiment and innovate to achieve some surprising results. He participates again in the Catalan catwalk show with his collection ‘Etimología del Yo’.
Gratacós will attend both shows to support the designers who have confided in us. We are very much looking forward to seeing their new collections. Good luck!
“La Robadora” is not your typical gastrobar in fashion in Barcelona. Those crammed places which appear in bohemian neighbourhoods all over the city, meeting the demands of the foodies, or otherwise said, everyday foodlovers.
This space has been created with character and shows its personality in all aspects. From the architecture, to design, to cuisine. Just its location is prime. Situated in the heart of the Raval, with the hustle and bustle of the tourists who explore the area wandering through the narrow alleyways. Situated amongst a lively social life of the residents of the area. Big racket!
In this picturesque area, which has gone through a real transformation towards culture and entertainment, is “La Robadora”. Shaped by the renowned interior designer Antonio Iglesias, creator of singular spaces such as La Monroe, La Arume, Vinçon and also Gratacós – an honour for us. Aswell as the concept Kike Blanco, stage designer responsible for the Company La Viuda. Art and design hand in hand with a team of professionals that also include Diego Mallo, artist and illustrator, responsible for the graphic design. Do not miss looking up at the roof to see his work!
Following the concept of gastrobar, the food served is traditional with exotic strokes. One can embark on an international tour in the form of delicious tapas. The chef Joan Puga, creates this journey of flavours and adds his style to the menu with seasonable suggestions that change each week according to the fresh produce available. Amongst the delicatessen on the menu, one can try popcorn chickbeans; a combination of ‘teriyaki’ octopus; a wok of green beans from “Santa Pau” with squid; Iberica gill and poached egg or an exquisite cod brandade with banana and yucca crisps.
To blend together with these dishes, La Robadora has an extensive selection of wines and cavas from the region and other wines selected by the sommelier Joan Coll. Organizing all the teams is Fernando Abras, director of La Robadora.
A quality gastronomic proposal in a privileged spot in the Raval, that mixes cuisine and design. La Robadora is work of art.
Una propuesta gastronómica de calidad en un enclave privilegiado del Raval que mezcla gastronomía y diseño. La Robadora tiene mucho arte.
Satin never goes out of fashion. Actually it is lucky to be one of those classic fabrics that is not subject to passing trends. This shiny and consistent silk fabric is not only nice to look at but also to touch making it enthralling at first glance.
Originally from China, the feel of satin is down to the fibres used to make it up and results in it being shiny on one side and more matt on the other. The softness, shine and elegance make it a charismatic fabric that is suitable for evening dresses, underwear or bed sheets.
Satin has become an essential now that draper style garments are in fashion and has become a season must have. The trend of the slip dress – that has been in fashion on and off since the 90s- involves wearing garments considered for underwear, elaborated in silk with lace features for day to day wear. This fashion is combined with more discreet garments of different fabrics to reduce the impact. Nighties converted into seductive evening dresses, lace vests combined with blazers, shirts that emulate the traditional pyjamas. Satin takes over all these bed clothes that are exposed in broad daylight and show their charms at night.
This season, the designers have succumbed to the glamour of satin with various offerings that have already been worn on the streets. The minimalist inspired draper dressers by Calvin Klein. The looks worn by the Saint Laurent princesses with Hedi Slimane as creative director. The pyjama suits by Alexander Wang or Sonia Rykiel and the robe type jackets by Givenchy, amongst others. Pastel colours dominate the palette, soft yellow, mint green, off white, lavender and powder pink.
In Gratacós, we offer a variety of satin fabrics for you to create the draper garment that most adapts to you: http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/en/lisos/saten-de-seda