To dress well you have to do it accordingly, from head to toe. We must never neglect to decorate any part of the body, especially the one that covers the source of all ideas. As a good couturier, Cristóbal Balenciaga never forgot the importance of the hat when it came to making a perfect outfit. Perhaps this aspect of him as a hatter was overshadowed by his innovative designs that gave him fame and prestige in his time. Not for nothing is this Basque designer considered one of the great needle-workers in the history of fashion. Now, in order to unearth the brilliance and perfectionism of this add-on, a separate chapter is being dedicated to it. Thus Barcelona is hosting for the first time a unique exhibition focused on the hats and headdresses of Cristóbal Balenciaga . An extraordinary sample , the result of years of joint research on the collections of hats at Museo Cristóbal Balenciaga, located in Guetaria, and the Museu del Disseny de Barcelona, institutions which have co – produced the exhibition , curated by Igor Uría the curator of the Museum Cristobal Balenciaga and Sílvia Ventosa, curator of textiles and clothing from the Barcelona Museum of Design .

A key complement

Thus ‘ Balenciaga. The elegance of the hat ‘ is the first international exhibition focused on the hats and headdresses of the master Balenciaga that were created in the headgear departments of the Haute Couture House in Paris and Madrid from the late 1930s until the closing of Balenciaga’s fashion- houses in 1968.

In the exhibition 87 hats are on public show, 78 of which are presented individually, 9 with a linked set of clothing and a dress with stole. To be precise 43 are from the collection of the Museu del Disseny and the other 44 from the collection of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum.

For the first time the elements in the collection are studied as creative objects with their own entity and are integrated into their own exhibition discourse.

Architect of form

Cristóbal Balenciaga established a very characteristic style and shape in his designs for hats, with refined, stylized volumes that are created via very simple, almost abstract forms, being in themselves authentic sculptures. The exhibition delves into the uniqueness of the designer’s work, highlighting the innovative and imaginative forms, the selection of exquisite materials, the search for techniques, and the artisan character of his hat production. The sum of all these factors makes them unique, unrepeatable and magnetic.

A good connoisseur of historical and popular headdresses, Balenciaga updated them and made them fashionable, always experimenting to create new models. At the same time he studied hats from multiple cultures, which he reinterpreted in a modern way and played with the harmony and contrast of colours seeking to create a profound visual impact.

The secret is in the clothing

This monographic exhibition allows us to admire some unique pieces and at the same time reveal certain aspects of the making of hats that are quite unknown, both in terms of the work in the workshops and their dissemination, both tasks fundamentally carried out by women. Therefore the exhibition highlights the feminine world that shaped Balenciaga’s design and creations: the Paris and Madrid departments were run by women : hat makers and saleswomen. And this women’s work as a counterpoint in the feminine world that used them : the women of the social elite dressed by Balenciaga. They were colloquially called “the Balenciagas”.

Identity and class symbol

From a contemporary perspective, ‘Balenciaga. The elegance of the hat‘ details the importance of this accessory to distinguish itself in the social and cultural context of the time. The headdress is an essential piece of clothing that balances volumes and completes the silhouette and image of the person. It is also a marker of identity, hierarchical distinction and social status. Since ancient times this accessory has been both an element of protection and a symbol of authority, thanks to the extravagance of its ornamentation or its size. It was not until the end of the 19th century, with the appearance of new purchasing and consumption habits, that women’s hats were introduced to all levels of society.

In the world of haute couture in the mid-20th century, headdresses brought glamour with a touch of boldness. In parallel hats were an element of daily use until the 1960s when, in the context of social movements that advocated social and gender egalitarianism, their use declined, it being  symbolically related to the upper classes and a society organized according to a patriarchal hierarchy. Today, hats occasionally appear at fashion shows and at private parties or social ceremonies.

Greater outreach

The exhibition also has a “get to know” area, a library service with consultation and loan of more than 300 titles offered by the Documentation Centre of the Design Museum in collaboration with the Josep Benet Library in El Clot. The exhibition catalogue is packed with articles by the curators and a special collaboration from the renowned hat maker Philip Treacy. There are editions in Catalan, Spanish, Basque and English.

‘Balenciaga. The elegance of the hat’ opens in Barcelona from June 17 to October 3, 2021. Then the exhibition will migrate to the couturier’s hometown and can be seen at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria from May 2022.

Pink is a colour that generates debate. It never leaves you indifferent and its choice in fashion represents from the most classic to the most demanding femininity. The childish and the superfluous is tinged with pink, but also the controversial, the flashy as well as the minimalist. From Schaparelli pink to Millennial pink. Let’s review some anecdotes about one of our favourite colours via various seasonal fabrics.

The colour of delight, happiness and miracles

Rosa, Rosalía, Rosanna, Rosita and Rosamunda. They all come from the rose. The flower that names the colour in question. All the qualities attributed to the rose are considered feminine because traditionally the rose has symbolized the strength of the meek, delight and kindness. William Shakespeare wrote in ‘Romeo and Juliet’ a revealing comparison: “I am as polite as the colour pink” to symbolize the sensitivity that this colour radiates.

Happiness is also dressed in pink as it is a hue that evokes fantasy. A rosy world is too beautiful to be true or anyone who adopts the motto think pink seeks to live out their  optimism in the face of a grey reality. When life is like a dream, the French have an expression that alludes to the colour in question: C’est la vie en rose, they say. A theme that Édith Piaf also immortalized.

Pink in medieval paintings had also been linked to the colour of transfiguration, unreality, and extraordinary things. There are several works that represent the homeland or the life of a saint with pink details such as a house within a city or a pink aura around a person. The people of the time linked that colour with that of miracles.

Instead today’s artists (designers, illustrators, cartoonists …) use pink from a creative point of view to surprise the viewer through colour. When pink is used in an unconventional way, it directly draws attention and appeals to the object or subject in question. The most famous Panther in the world of cinema and comics is not exactly black.

Tender and sweet pink

Pink is soft and tender and on a psychological level it is associated with delicacy. Pink makes us think of skin, softness and youth. Pink also expresses sweetness. It is the colour of confectionery, delight and cloying. We know that any edible product with a sweet wrapper is a food with a mild, appetizing and sweet taste. Not in vain is it the most used colour in pastry shops or sweet shops that unconsciously seduce consumers through the tempting pink tones.

From masculine pink to feminine pink

Pink has not always been a colour associated with the “typically feminine.” In fact, before the 20th century it was considered a masculine colour. For example, in ancient religious paintings the Child Jesus was often painted in pink, the diminutive of red, and the Virgin Mary in an indigo blue cloak. Another example. Today’s pink press dedicated to a predominantly female audience would contrast with the typically male financial newspapers, such as the Financial Times and the Gazzetta dello Sport, which continue to be printed, in accordance with the old tradition, on pink paper.

On the other hand, the convention to award pink to girls and light blue to boys arose around 1920. Before that little boys and girls were all clad in white. If they wore ribbons, they were almost always red, because according to tradition, this colour protected against the evil eye. After the First World War red disappeared from all men’s civilian fashion. At this time there was also a real revolution in clothing: the so-called “reformist fashion” that freed women from corsets and created a specific fashion for children who wore sailor suits and dresses, dyed with artificial indigo, the new fashion dye.  Sailor suits derived from an almost forced logic, suggesting that light blue was the colour for boys and its opposite, pink, was awarded to girls. During World War II this message was reinforced through government propaganda with a “pink for a girl” mental association. In fact, in advertising, those perfect wives who took care of the children and the home wore dresses of that colour. At that time it also became the colour of discrimination: homosexuals who could not satisfy the ideal of masculinity were locked up in concentration camps and wore a pink triangle sewn to their clothing  to distinguish them. The colour pink is indeed currently often identified with this group (the pink collective) who see in this shade a positive connotation of identification and of struggle to claim their rights.

From Pompadour pink to Schiaparelli pink

During the Rococo period, which lasted from approximately 1720 to 1775, the pastel colours dictated by the French court, which set the fashion of the time throughout Europe, were all, the rage. Aqua greens, straw yellows, azure blues, and powdery pinks were worn by aristocratic men and women alike. Madame Pompadour (1721-1764), prototype of the Rococo lady, lover of art and exquisite taste, made the combination of pink and light blue fashionable, something which today seems typical of this artistic movement. Today the Pompadour rose still endures, a princely rose that the porcelain makers of Sèvres created for the lover of the King of France Louis XV: a rose with obvious traces of blue, some black and yellow.

In fashion there is another rose worthy of mention, precisely because it does not go unnoticed: Elsa Schiaparelli‘s shocking pink.  In 1931 the Italian dressmaker, who brought the ideas of surrealist painters into fashion, launched  a new colour: shocking Pink (magenta with a hint of white). She also created a perfume that she called by the same name and which was sold in a box of that garish colour that scared the public by its aggressiveness. Yes, pink could be subversive and transgressive. In fact, this colour is currently used in outfits aimed at attracting attention whether on a runway or a red carpet.

Interestingly, Pink is the loudest colour in the range of roses. It is the colour that is usually present in advertising not very serious objects, the most strident accessories in fashion and the cheapest or most banal plastic articles.

The pink of the millennial generation

There is a type of pastel pink that has been appropriated by millennials during the first decade of the 21st century. A neutral tonality that unifies genres, identifies a generation and that has taken over a cultural movement that ranges from fashion to cinema. For example, millennial pink has been seen in Wes Andersen’s movies or on the fashion-parades of Valentino, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Hermès or Dries Van Notens. A tone that has also appeared throughout the world of design, from social media and printed materials to furniture. This pink, which mixes salmon tones, conveys a sense of calm and is associated with words like “youthful” and “accessible”, explaining why so many modern companies have been so drawn to it. Millennial pink fever broke out in 2016 when Pantone announced  quartz pink, a candy-cotton-like shade,  as its colour of the year. Although generation Z  has taken over from the new youth by appropriating other colours, this type of pink is still very present in today’s society.

Although in fashion they do not have seasonality, flowers triumph in spring: they sprout in all fabrics and take over the main trend-setting outfits, whether romantic spirit, eighties aesthetics, sports or boho-chic style. In addition, this season the motifs of small and delicate flowers coexist with other tropical-inspired maximalists in bright and radiant colours. In fact, if there is something that unites the spring floral prints, it is the explosion of colour that they use to enliven the looks of the moment.

At Gratacós we propose to organize our seasonal prints according to three inspirations:

• Country

Poppies, daisies, dandelions, hollyhocks, lavenders… The most common wildflowers found in the field make the leap onto the catwalk and are presented individually or in colourful bouquets that add a youthful touch to the garments in which they star. Wild flowers tend to link with the looks of a folk spirit in flowing dresses, asymmetrical jumpsuits or extra- long tunics.

• Garden

The flowers that live in the garden are a constant source of inspiration for designers when they create their dress designs for the summer collections. Hydrangeas, carnations, peonies, geraniums are some of the flowers that also appear in celebrity guest looks. For yet another season roses are the queen of flowers and are amongst the most prominent of floral prints because they represent romance, mystique and femininity. At Gratacós this season we are committed to combining roses with other garden flowers, creating patterns with attractive and very colourful visual play.

• Tropical

Prints inspired by the flora and fauna of tropical paradises are a classic that never fails in Spring-Summer collections, especially in lighter fashion garments with holiday-inspired clothing. Exotic flowers such as hibiscus, abundant vegetation and some animal print motif sneak into these more relaxed and carefree designs with bold colours that help to enhance a suntan.

These are some of our suggestions, but you already know that in our online store or in our shop in Barcelona you can discover all the floral prints of the new collection. What designs can you imagine yourself creating with seasonal floral fabrics?

Gratacós ends the month of April by reviewing the first Spanish catwalks of the year: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid in hybrid format and 080 Barcelona Fashion with collections presented through fashion films. These are the proposals, designs and looks that we have found on the catwalks and that are made with various seasonal fabrics. Thanks to all the designers for trusting in us!

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Brain & Beast souvenirs

Ángel Vilda, the alma mater of Brain&Beast has transmitted the concept of memory and nostalgia to the Madrid catwalk, via family memories with his new creationl ‘Souvenir’. Thus this daring designer, who turns shape, volume and colour upside down in each collection, has reverted to his childhood to reproduce garments that have marked him and that constitute valuable objects in themselves: the patterns of the dress his grandmother wore  at her mother’s wedding, a coat that recalls the dressing-gown she wore on her holidays in Salou, a reconstruction of his grandfather’s dressing gown  … All this personal memory takes shape via his customary design tics: oversize patterns, overlapping layers and textures, geometric motifs and some symbols inspired by contemporary culture that mix irony and humour. This company combines powerful social discourse with a strong visual identity and has managed to establish itself within the scene with its irreverent style. At Brain & Beast nothing is left to chance.

The art of volume by Isabel Sanchís

The Valencian designer once again magnifies the femininity of women via a new Autumn / Winter collection 2021/2022 full of pieces with intense silhouettes and volumes of sculptural inspiration that appeal to the five senses. To recreate these architectural figures, Isabel Sanchís uses elements such as shoulder- pads that provide volume and a certain futuristic air, drapes, embroidery, intertwined motifs, fringes and silicone appliqués. With regard to colour neutral tones, especially in grey,  accompany touches of fuchsia, yellow and orange in strategic looks that reduce volume and enhance the feminine silhouette.

Maison Mesa, life is a party

Juan Carlos Mesa has actively contributed to the visibility and development of Spanish fashion. With his own company, Maison Mesa created in 2017, the designer exhibits his unique vision of fashion in a contemporary key, combining tradition (materials, classic and artisanal sewing techniques) with new technologies (3D printing and experimental materials). Under this concept the latest collection entitled ‘Rave’ was presented, inspired by the history and evolution of those bohemian parties born in London in the 50s that have been transformed over the decades into well-known electronic music events.

To represent this spirit of escape via partying Juan Carlos Mesa goes for clean and simple lines, full of references to urban clothing that stand out for their comfort and freedom of movement: wide pants and overalls, baggy pants and oversize garments. , cargo pockets, hoods and zippers, rubber or automatic, which hark back to sport garments. In terms of fabrics the designer uses a surprising mix of combinations: wool, satin and lurex twill, mixes of crepes with denim or quilted fabrics with a 3D effect together with tulle. All, within a colour range that ranges from the purest and primary colours such as yellow, green or magenta, to burgundy, indigo, grey, white or black along with touches of gold and silver.

The OFF catwalks

Parallel to the official calendar for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid,  OFF shows were also scheduled, featuring  young  fashion designers.

In these alternative shows we highlight designers who habitually trust our fabrics, like Dominnico. This time Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro is inspired by the social crisis of coronavirus to create an imaginary uncertain future through the eyes of a  generation of young people who want to socialize at a moment of emotional breakdown. To recreate this concern Dominnico goes for an upcycling exercise, recovering part of the brand’s fur leather inventory to create new pieces. In addition the denim fabric that appears with exclusive prints and also a new genderless fashion line is given prominence.

For her part, Pilar Torrecillas from the company Pilar Dalbat has presented a collection dedicated to the figure of Mariano Fortuny Madraza, taking as reference the 150th anniversary of the birth of this famous painter from Granada. We highlight the feminine designs featuring our fabrics with small fringes creating an interesting hair effect.

The Corsicana firm of Paula Currást tends to merge different disciplines and interests for its catwalk shows: fashion, design, cinema or music all appear together. The latest collection focuses on the home as a space for inspiration. ‘La Casa’ represents reflections on an environment of intimacy and introspection via fluid designs of urban inspiration, sartorial garments and pleated fabrics that are combined in a very controlled colour range.

Finally, Montenegro, the debut of Nicolás Montenegro on the Madrid catwalk with a ready-to-wear proposal inspired by southern Morocco. The Sevillian’s  creations abound in shirt dresses inspired by Moroccan djellaba with materials such as silk. The extremely striking cuffs and collars with character are some of the details that the creator applies to his shirts. Exceptional pieces that are dotted with lace, ruffles and delicate finishes, always topped by the company’s hand-made buttons.

080 Barcelona Fashion

The glamour of Avellaneda invades the Catalan catwalk

Juan Avellaneda has opened the 080 Barcelona Fashion calendar with a proposal that invites you to dream via sophisticated looks full of fantasy that connect with beauty, joy, escape and the desire to celebrate life. Thus in the proposal ‘La nuit éclairée’ the celebrity designer opts for the characteristic features that make up his DNA:  tuxedos for men and women together with classic shirt and tailoring patterns, introducing novelties such as porcelain-china inspired prints and a collection of dresses inspired by tailored garments. The chromatic range makes a return to  essentials  via pure and energetic colours such as white, black, red and Klein blue that suggest Mediterranean culture and its celebration of the essential.

The magic of Menchén Tomàs

Menchén Tomás is inspired by the ‘Duende’ for the next Spring-Summer 2021 collection, that is, by the innate and intangible talent that causes almost magical sensations in those who witness it. In a fairy tale atmosphere and with various elements that refer to the tarot, Olga Menchén showed off her usual design skills through a sophisticated and feminine collection, full of volatile volumes, iridescent fabrics, radiant colours, evocative long dresses where  craftsmanship is appreciated:  prints suggesting astral charts, embroidered flowers and a laboriously- created wedding dress with almost a hundred hand-sewn pieces that closed the show. The use of oriental-inspired silk and patterned gauze with colours such as porcelain- blue, apple- green or mandarin- orange give the collection an energetic air.

The experimental craft of Y_Como

Born during lock-down, Y_Como is the new adventure of sisters Cristina and Yolanda Pérez, founders of Yolancris, the Catalan haute couturehouse that has catwalked in Paris. This new brand was born with the desire to explore the creative processes of the pieces, experimenting through innovative techniques, fabrics and silhouettes. The debut collection was actually presented at 080 Barcelona Fashion and  is a declaration of intentions: it reclaims the spirit of freedom  via the humanist poem ‘If’ by Rudyard Kipling in a manifesto that also combines the Arts & Crafts movement of designer William Morris and the  naturalist architecture of Antoni Gaudí. Thus this proposal of great visual richness is in practice a great exhibition of the craftsmanship and experimentation of its designers. Particularly noteworthy is the meticulous way in which they have worked denim through draping, pleating and hand embroidery, together with hand-made prints and embroideries with floral and plant motifs. An exquisite hand-made proposal makes such a difference.

The free love of Paola Molet

Finally we also highlight Paola Molet who has made her debut on the Catalan catwalk with her own company, which was created 6 months ago. Her style is defined as neo-romantic and the collection is genderless, non gender-specific, with pieces that can be interchangeable. The proposed creation for next winter deals with how society understands love and the pursuit of happiness, whether following established canons or not. The young designer transmits this search in design through rigid, dense, hard and straight-shaped looks that are combined with de-constructed silhouettes and contrasting fabrics. The proposal is mostly black and white, with a touch of red.

I hope you enjoyed the collections as much as we did!

The bridal sector is in the process of transformation to adapt to the comings and goings imposed by the restrictions of the pandemic and the easing of lockdown phases. The coronavirus crisis has exploded directly and overwhelmingly, affecting all sectors: from restaurants, beauty centres to the textile sector. And for a year now, the world of wedding ceremonies has been stepping on the accelerator to adapt to these precipitous changes. 

The data speaks for itself: in 2020 around 125,000 events were postponed, according to data from the Association of Wedding Professionals of Spain (A PBE). Each of these cancellations has led to losses of about 25,000 euros and a total of 2 million jobs that could not be generated. Today, it is very difficult to predict when normality will return in the bridal sector: the pandemic and its consequent economic crisis will again generate uncertainty in 2021, and it is very possible that it will disrupt the calendar for the next two years. 

Within the textile sector, our main concern, the absence of new brides and the decrease in the number of guests at weddings, which are currently a lot more smaller and intimate, has led to a reduction in purchases of wedding dresses and also of raw materials, that is, fabrics. Reductions that have also harmed by extension wedding guest outfits and evening wear. 

Therefore, given this process of change and adaptation to the current situation, will it modify the traditional aesthetics of the dresses, the way of buying them or the amount of money that the brides invest?

It is not easy to know where the sector will go, but from Gratacós we continue to offer our bridal fabrics to all brides who are committed to getting married in these difficult times. As fabric manufacturers who analyze the large firms and specialized designers, we forecast some trends in dresses for brides of 2021 and 2022.

• The traditional bridal aesthetic loses strength

The traditional bridal aesthetic is maintained, but loses its steam. This trend is due to two factors: brides, both millennials and the first generation Z, prefer to break with the classic, daring with new silhouettes that go beyond the one-piece dress, such as the tailored jacket, whether it be either with trousers or with a tube skirt. An opportunity to blur the classic conceptions about how a bride should be dressed. On the other hand, the more intimate, private and informal celebrations influence the wardrobe with more relaxed outfits that avoid the rigid and corseted.

In terms of styles, two antagonistic trends converge: the return of minimalism with its elegant simplicity versus overloaded romanticism. The first style involves plain dresses with clean, structured and reusable lines. If the economy in 2021 and 2022 will be more austere, it is consistent that this shall be reflected in wedding dresses. This minimalist trend is also committed to simplicity and comfort through pieces that facilitate movement and can be adapted in multiple contexts. At the other extreme, the romantically inspired dresses with their volumes, overlays, lace and ruffles refuse to disappear. A type of outfit for dreamy brides who want to enjoy their wedding in a memorable tailored dress. These dresses are rich in fabrics with special attention to those that provide greater opulence: tulle, embroidery, ornamental effects, floral applications …

If it is true that, halfway to minimalism and opulence, there are endless proposals that balance the scales with dresses that merge the two trends and go out of their way for the detail that is perceived in the pleats, in the drapes, the details on the shoulders or unexpected openings. Also gaining importance are dresses with volume and wide skirts through patterns which expand at the hem to give them more prominence

In parallel, in recent years ready-to-wear collections have emerged that complement the dress with much more informal and versatile pieces. These can be custom-made or mass-produced. There is also an upward trend in vintage accessories that give a new retro to the bridal look. For autumn and winter weddings, outerwear has found a new source within instability: capes, cardigans, coats in the same fabric as the dress …, as well as various accessories that adorn the bride.

• Focus on the detail

The detail is what matters. Regardless of the bridal style chosen, there are some trends that have taken hold in recent years. One of them has to do with the sleeves that are taking centre stage in wedding dresses. Long sleeves, puffy sleeves, tightly gathered at the elbows or cuffs, puffed sleeves, and sleeves with very pronounced shoulders are worn like blazers inspired by the 80s.

As for collars and necklines, pronounced cuts coexist with closed ones and overlays gain importance. In turn, the reign of flowers is threatened by a new detail that is gaining presence in more and more bridal designs: feathers. A resource that adds elegance, delicacy and movement to the wedding dress. Finally, something curious we want to mention that we have perceived within the Baroque style: the veil is back in fashion and everything indicates that the trend will continue and increase in the coming years.

• Trends in fabrics

As textile manufacturers, in Gratacós we have a specific collection , which is renewed every year, so brides can order their own design of dress. In terms of consumer trend, we do see certain changes. Organza is one of our star fabrics if we take into account that the most popular wedding dresses are those with volumes, layers and transparencies. This organza is worked with embroidery, net lace and even 3D flowers. Crepes with rustic touches, wrinkled-effect fabrics and brocades also gain relevance. In fact, there is a growing demand for handicrafts and a return to details such as trimmings and embroidery. At the other extreme, satin fabrics are ideal for plain, lingerie-type dresses.

Come to our shop in Barcelona to discover the new collection of bridal fabrics!

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

Could anyone imagine that grey and yellow would be the perfect dance partner? Moreover, that they would come to mark and influence this uncertain year that lies ahead of us? According to Pantone, the world authority on colour, nothing is impossible and the entrance to the new 20s will be tinted with Ultimate Gray and Illuminating , this unique colour duet that they assure “combines deep sensations of reflection with the optimistic promise of a sunny day”.

It is not the first time that an ambitious colour pairing has been chosen to represent the colour trends that will influence aesthetic aspects related to fashion, design, advertising or decoration, among others. In 2016, for example, Serenity blue and Quartz pink (known as Millennial pink) were also chosen as a combination. Instead, the 2020 election was motivated by different reasons, influenced by the current context of the pandemic and its social consequences, based on a contrast between strength and hope. Two important attributes that will mark 2021.

Positivity with strength

On the one hand, Ultimate Gray represents firmness. According to Pantone, it “evokes feelings of solidity and reliability that are timeless and provide a firm foundation.” The fortress is painted grey, hard and difficult to break. In nature, “this colour is present in the pebbles that we see on the beach, in the rocks and stones that have been permanently and immobile on the face of the Earth for thousands of years. ” Therefore, this shade of grey is able to withstand the test of time. To itself, “Ultimate Gray inspires calm assurance and conveys feelings of composure, stability and resilience,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute. For example, in fashion, what colour would the sweatpants that have lived in most homes and have become the most used garment in confinement?

On the other hand, Ultimate Gray is paired with an energetic, clear and hopeful tone to overcome a situation of sustained uncertainty. This contrasting colour is Illuminating, a bright and cheerful yellow that generates vivacity and effervescence and that in nature inevitably refers us to the sun’s rays. This shade symbolizes hope, positivity and all the good that awaits us during 2021. Thus, the union of an imperishable Ultimate Gray with the vibrant yellow that represents the Illuminating, expresses a message of positivity combined with strength”, according to Leatrice Eiseman. “A practical and solid colour combination, yet warm and optimistic at the same time that offers resilience and hope. We need to feel encouraged and comforted, it is essential for the human soul, ” she concludes.

 

 

In fact, the annual choice of a colour that will guide a given year is not the result of chance. Pantone analysts base their final decision on rigorous research and international market analysis. ” The Pantone Color of the Year reflects everything that is happening in our global culture, a colour that expresses the needs of individuals and the colour can give an answer, ” added Laurie Pressman, vicepresident at the Institute Pantone Color. Pressman who also assures that “at a time when society continues to recognize colour as a critical form of communication and as a way of symbolizing thoughts and ideas, a large number of designers and brands are adopting the language of colour to interact and connect ”.

 

 

Ultimate Gray + Illuminating on the catwalk

The union of these antagonistic shades has been uploaded to the catwalks and is very present in the spring-summer 2021 collections. Prada, Jacquemus, Emilio Pucci, Balmain or Salvatore Ferragamo had already chosen this chromatic alliance in the new spring proposals. Two tones that have an impact on clothing, on the fabrics that are chosen and that will determine our way of combining and choosing current garments. According to Pantone, Ultimate Gray + Illuminating in clothing and fashion accessories conveys a message of sunshine and strength because the evergreen grey provides an excellent counterpoint to yellow, bringing some light to small details and clothing accessories. For example, with its energetic presence, the union of the two shades represents an excellent combination in sportswear, coats and in outerwear.

From Gratacós we have several seasonal fabrics that mix the two colours of 2021. Most are floral prints or geometric-inspired prints. The best of all? Right now we have them at irresistible prices. Do not miss the new promotion of fabrics in our online store.

 

This anomalous 2020 has also upset the calendar of the interesting informative talks by the Color Community. association. A private initiative, which we have followed closely since its creation, led by a group of three professionals who love colour: the architect Pere Ortega; the designer specialized in Colour & Trim, Eva Muñoz; and Rosa Pujol, Textile & Colour Stylist and creative director of Gratacós.

This year, the biannual and face-to-face meetings at the Old Damm Factory in Barcelona have been converted into digital format, thus via screen respecting the security measures imposed by the current health situation. Despite the difficulties, Colour Community was able to present the new colour chart that will serve as a guide for the Spring-Summer season 2022 in an orientation report that serves as a source of inspiration for creative professionals who are dedicated to fashion, design, advertising or architecture, among other areas. 

Within a current social and economic context marked by instability and uncertainty, the new broad and global creative proposal Wait… SS22. A concept that articulates the entire chromatic range and which symbolizes the preamble to an infinity of optimistic possibilities, guided by the real need to make better decisions as a society and also in relation to the environment. This “waiting” is essential, according to the association, “to appreciate and value life with humility and simplicity, and its functional daily life to structure the whole future.” For this reason, it will be necessary to design from practicality, but without forgetting beauty or creativity.

“The new creation symbolizes the preamble to celebration,

play and optimism”

“Wait…” also symbolizes the beginning of celebration, play and optimism, opening seamlessly to coexistence with digital reality. As for colour, it materializes like never before, conveying human emotions and being the conductive support of these senses.

In turn, the ‘Wait…’ colour scheme is structured through four ranges of colours, textures and materials named Wait… & Listen, Wait… & Wish, Wait… & Enjoy and Wait… & Grow Up. Colour Community sums it up with a claim to a final message of hope: “Wait… & tomorrow”. Wait and there will be a tomorrow.

Below, we summarize each creative proposal:

Wait… &Listen

This first range is inspired by attentive waiting: ” one that is willing to receive information and learn from it “. A proposal that is based on learning from the proximity of natural society and human knowledge. Wait… &Listen is built from neutrality and naturalness, presenting colour with renewed subtlety. That means that we speak of natural realism, of materials and finishes that connect with a well-manipulated origin, worked from harmony and sustainability. As for the colour palette, relaxing neutral tones abound, such as natural white, basic ecru and calcareous grey, among other soft colours that structure and soothe. The designs mark a return to the simplicity with linear shapes and geometric  basics such as the circle. Rough textures, natural and imperfect finishes, wrinkles and rustic aesthetics return. This trend is also seen in fabrics that are expressed without decorative excesses. Clean-looking matt cotton, linen, hemp, poplin and satin threads abound. Finally, natural fibres coexist with recycled and regenerated synthetics.

Wait… &Wish

The second range appeals to desire, this concept that cannot be materialized and that activates the most creative part of the human being. According to Colour Community: “desire is not satisfied with the tangible and looks for something else as far as possible”. Under this premise, Wait… & Wish seeks to rediscover the secrets of craftsmanship, revaluing all its specific features. In turn this range also focuses on the plant world, but this time it focuses its attention on that nature that we know, but that we rarely touch or experience consciously. The colour is inspired by the apparent chaos of natural beauty, its uniqueness and exuberance with rich, bright and contrasting chromaticism: vegetal green, bright blues, gold foils or crimson brushstrokes. The designs seek to seduce by their elemental, organic and abstract geometries, hand-drawn striped prints, paintings in their freest version and colour combinations that reflect the chromatic chaos of nature. As regards materials there are many works with artisan natural dyes, semi-gloss yarns, die-cuts and laser cuts, utilitarian clothing and satin looks. Finally, in fabrics we are committed to sustainability and comfortable and practical fabrics that do not abandon design. In the fantasy section, Jacquards abound with geometric structures, mesh fabrics, nets and refined weavings such as reliefs and embossing.

Wait… &Enjoy

The third inspiration is the opposite on a conceptual level to the first two: it wants to project the future in an optimistic and creative way, exploring concepts such as freedom, evasion and extroversion. A creative enjoyment that will become limitless, but consistent and thoughtful with the common good. In this range, Colour Community features a creation enriched and loaded with subjective personality, but always coherent and respectful with the environment. The colour palette is based on fresh, cheerful, playful and sensual tones full of positivity and ready to be combined with neutrals. Vital tones such as geranium,  fresh mint, chlorophyll, pink and vitaminised lime which combine with neutrals like white and sand-coloured. The designs are seduced by the power of the flowers and the magnetism of the most exuberant vegetation. Leaves, petals, gardens, green spaces … plant nature also takes centre-stage in summer fabrics. In addition to the flower motifs there are beautiful yarns for new colour sensations, shiny fibres, fluid fabrics that create transparency, textured organza with iridescent yarns, Jacquards with reliefs and piqué. In general, the fabrics express that intention to celebrate and dance again through movement.

Wait… &Grow Up

Finally, Wait… & Grow Up represents an evolution of the previous range. It is based on the imperfection of growth, the acceptance of the passage of time and integration of the past in order to understand the future. This range is “a reunion with the most chromatic geometry with a high expressionist content”. Products designed from a future perspective, with this range of colours, will be approached with a stimulating and light-filled mentality in which multicoloured harmonies generating multitone patterns will play a prominent role. The colour palette is thus multifaceted, symbolic, versatile and adaptable to all sectors: mauve, yellow, intoxicating pink, coral, orange, green, grey, blue and sophisticated brown. In designs a mixture of antagonistic, strange motifs and visual surprises is prioritized. With regard to fabrics this last range follows the line of the previous three and has a clear intention: to better production via recovered or recycled yarns, reducing the chemical impact and water consumption, in order to face a future with hope. Finally, the proposal is based on tactile fabrics that provide an extroverted, colourful and highly visible look.

They have done it again. Mans Concept Menswear has won another distinction that recognizes the originality, good know-how and future projection of this revolutionary men’s tailoring firm created by Jaime Álvarez (Seville, 1994). 

This time, MANS has been the winner of the 2020 Vogue Who’s On Next award, a prestigious award that after nine consecutive years supporting emerging talent has become the most important in Spanish fashion by being endowed with 100,000 euros to develop a business plan, thanks to the collaboration of Inditex. This awards also includes enrollment in ACME (Association of Fashion Designers of Spain) without passing the vote of the General Assembly and the opportunity to participate in the next edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. In addition to the support and editorial coverage of Vogue Spain magazine. Thus, Mans Concept finally prevailed over the other two finalists for the award: Dominnico and Ynésuelves.

A conceptual twist on traditional tailoring

And why Mans? What makes it special? If you still do not know the firm, you should carry on reading.  Mans Concept originates in 2017, in the thesis project of the young Sevillian, Jaime Álvarez after his studies in Fashion Design at the IED in Madrid. Its purpose was revolutionary: to forge a new concept of masculinity through tailoring, challenging its more traditional codes. Actually, the name Mans comes from Demans, which is of German origin and one of the surnames of the designer and creative director of the brand.  Shortening it to ‘ Mans ‘ indicates the search for a new, more personal and updated tailoring. A new approach to modern man. And that’s the main purpose of this visionary pret-a-porter brand.

Thus, Mans Concept focuses on bespoke men’s tailoring based on the reinterpretation of classic patterns. In fact, the firm is influenced both by the ‘ Saville Row ‘ workshops and by Japanese techniques, both present in all its collections. What makes Jaime Álvarez’s signature different is that emphasis on lines, refining cuts and achieving an avant-garde image in silhouettes and finishes that do not lose the traditional essence. The firm seeks a masculine aesthetic adapted to today with clean cuts, colours at the service of the concept and innovation in the fabrics that are personally chosen by Álvarez himself and are exported from England, Italy, Japan and Spain, Gratacós being one of its regular suppliers. With all this raw material, Mans Concept designs and produces locally, two annual collections with clothing that is positioned within the medium-luxury sector and in which each piece has its own detail. The objective is to offer a complete and hybrid masculine wardrobe with basic quality garments, versatile and a progressive design, focused on people who are sure of themselves and what they are looking for.

In its short career, Mans Concept has participated four times in the 080 Barcelona Fashion catwalk and has received the Best Emerging Design award on three of them, and has also walked the MBFW Madrid catwalk on another occasion.

The announcement of Mans Concept as the winning firm of the ninth edition of Vogue Who’s On Next also marks the verification of the creative drive of a new batch of Spanish designers whose common link is the love for clothing made in Spain, the appreciation for craftsmanship, the breakdown of gender barriers, and an international projection that leaves its mark on various red carpets. They call it the WON generation, made up of winners from previous editions such as Marcela Mansergas (2012), Juan Vidal (2013), Maria ke Fisherman (2014), ManéMané (2015), Moisés Nieto (2016), Leandro Cano (2017), Palomo Spain (2018), Carlota Barrera (2019) and, the latest incorporation Mans Concept (2020).

Congratulations Jaime Alvarez for this distinction!

 

September leaves behind the balance of the first Spanish virtual catwalks, held in Madrid and Barcelona in a linked way. Despite becoming digital platforms, the presentation format of a collection remains practically intact: through a catwalk show, adapted to the new times. Gratacós has been following each one of the presentations and, as always, we have managed to identify some of our seasonal fabrics in the original garments presented by the designers who support us. Once again, thank you for your trust!

Dominnico embraces science fiction

If there is something that Dominnico has, it is that, in a short time, he has managed to create an identifiable style, aesthetic codes and his own language on and off the catwalks. And it is not easy at all with the times we are living in. The brand Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro exhibited his credentials in the last edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. How? Embracing the retrofuturist aesthetic, his taste for the Bauhaus art movement, pop culture, and manga. Now, Dominnico has taken science fiction as a reference to devise the woman of the future. Thus, in UHURA, the collection for next summer, the Alicante designer has drawn through his enigmatic designs a space traveler, empowered and fighter, technological and romantic. The eccentric Leeloo from The Fifth Element; the stylish officer Nyota Uhura from Star Trek; the sexy Vanessa Kensington from Austin Power or the exotic Nina Williams and Ling Xiaoyu , Manga muses from Tekken par excellence, are some of the characters that emerge in the creator’s imagination.

The colour of the new collection travels between watercolor tones such as water green , storm blue, lilac and pastel yellow or other more earthy tones such as tile; the brand’s characteristic holographic bright colours, without forgetting black and white passing to more resounding ones such as red and orange. In terms of materials, guipure plays a leading role in this new proposal, deconstructed and mixed with leather with laminated textures and fur, introducing lamé, sequins, elastic crepe and fringed lurex. Do you recognize any of our fabrics?

Katherine Hepburn inspires Angel Schlesser

Angel Schlesser, under the creative baton of Juan Carlos Mesa since June, was inspired by the actress Katherine Hepburn as an icon of contemporary, independent, personality and risky women. An actress who, during her professional career of more than six decades, maintained her own style that moved perfectly in ambiguity: she defied the masculine and feminine codes, being equal to or more modern than contemporary actresses. A series of virtues that represent Angel Schlesser’s urban and cosmopolitan woman, who always lives in the present with one foot in the future and without renouncing her past.

The lines of the collection are simple, of great purity in the cut and in the finishes. Fluid silhouettes, designed for comfort without restricting movement. Garments such as shirt dresses, cape skirts, narrow, straight, wide trousers, trouser-skirts; trench coats , kaftans , short and long evening dresses. A whole series of garments to give women freedom and not limit their choice with a wide range of fabrics and noble materials to cover all needs, cotton poplin and voile, linen, silk twill and satin, jaquards and printed sequins, metallic and lame effects. Juan Carlos Mesa does not set limits to honour the Schlesser woman.

Brain & Beast celebrates 10 years of transgressive fashion

The irreverent signature of Ángel Vilda turns 10 years old and has celebrated it again on the catwalks, doing a double in Madrid and later, in Barcelona. At Brain&Beast nothing is what it seems at first glance and behind each collection of deconstructed garments, printed t-shirts, layer-by-layer looks and a mix of colours, fabrics, reliefs and prints, there is always an easily recognizable identity and a hidden message, an intentionality and this is ambiguous because if something characterizes Vilda’s signature is the game, the double meanings and the fun that later invites reflection. The rogue fashion that stirs consciences. In fact, Angel Vilda first builds stories and those stories are translated into clothes. Then, those clothes end up in the wardrobe of other people who in turn interpret new stories, dressed in those unique clothes.

On this occasion, Brain & Beast presented in Madrid the ‘Dogma’ collection for next spring-summer 2021. A new proposal that combines a new philosophical doctrine that serves as a starting point to present genderless garments on the catwalk that rightly combine emotion with models that represent a display of diversity: professional mannequins with friends of Angel himself are the best ambassadors of these fresh and carefree collections designed for an unprejudiced public. In Barcelona, Brain & Beast prepared a whole show to celebrate this first decade by displaying those closest to them in a great party with bizarre hues. Like it or not, Brain & Beast is just like that, unconventional.

Menchén Tomàs pays tribute to light in a brilliant proposal

Menchén Tomàs, led by Olga Menchén, kicked off the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion with a splendid collection to honor her 25 years of know-how. As usual, the proposal focused on the festive universe with a catwalk show dominated by dresses and sets of two pieces that suggest sensuality and elegance in each movement. Silhouettes of refined cuts, delicate and silky fabrics, pure colours and a palette inspired by the tones of the sunset make up the collection called ‘Reflexos’.

Mans, between ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring

Mans is one of the most interesting Spanish menswear firms in the country. Creative director, Jaime Alvarez has managed to build a powerful brand identity moving between the ready-to-wear and made to measure tailoring. In fact, Mans’s goal is clear: to offer a complete hybrid wardrobe with quality, versatile basic garments and a progressive design, focused on self-confident people who know what they are looking for in fashion.

The garments of the new spring-summer 2021 collection are inspired by the colors, silhouettes and above all by the attitude of the characters portrayed in them, which are rescued from the photographic work of Slim Aarons . In this new proposal, an inventive line can be identified in the collection and its patterns, based on the bucolic multiculturalism that Aarons expressed in his images. Robes and tuxedos that transport us to the parties portrayed by the American photographer in which we are presented with an idealized society, according to the environment of the location. From Capri to Palm Springs, passing through the gardens of Marrakech. This reality portrayed in the images has been represented by the use of the brand’s own prints, where nude silhouettes and more abstract prints make a parallel between the idealization of the works and the anatomy of the body and nature.

ONRUSHW23FH debuts on the Catalan catwalk

The young designers Albert Sánchez and Sebastián Cameras, aged 24 and 22, are the creators of ONRUSHW23FH, one of the debuting firms at the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. A brand that is part of their final degree project and that consisted of the creation of a collection presented in 2019, later being consolidated in the current project. In fact, the Sánchez and Cameras tandem already had our fabrics in their project and now, in their premiere at 080, they have counted on us again. 

ONRUSHW23FH presented the collection ‘ Almost There ‘ with a reflection in the background at the Sant Pau Modernista Campus. In fact, the designers started from the idea of ​​a liquid society and the immediacy that it implies developed by the sociologist Zygmunt Bauman to base a collection that is inspired by the movement caused by doing things quickly. A utopia that brings the dynamism, wrinkles and simplicity of chaos that are part of this proposal. Among his designs, we find a rich visual imagery that reveals the immediacy and agitation of arriving at your destination at all costs. Garments that are twisted, overlapped or with silhouettes completely displaced from their centers are created from a novel process that mixes 3D prototypes of toile on the mannequin. A technique that allows you to make a selection that is later digitally transformed to achieve more interesting volumes. The result is a timeless and genderless collection that works as a satirical portrait of the concept of haste that marks us as individuals.