Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
(Español) Moda Madrid y Barcelona, lo que está por ver
Gratacós en la pasarela barcelonesa
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
(Español) El 080 Barcelona Fashion más marítimo
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
(Español) Escaparates de la moda española
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
Alone with…Maria Fontanellas
Maria Fontanellas is part of this new generation of designers who have managed to form their own brand and struggle every day to find their place in an industry that is avid for novelties, but also fierce. From a family of tanners from Igualada, one of the textile cribs of Catalonia, the young creator tries to promote Mietis abroad with a young team that helps her in the design, positioning and business tasks. In her debut at the 080 Barcelona Fashion show last year, Maria Fontanellas won the Emerging Talent Award. We discuss her upcoming projects…
Tell us what we are going to see in the new collection that you present at the 080 Barcelona Fashion…
The collection ‘Safari to Wonderland ‘ is inspired by the world of the jungle in which exotic animals with well-defined colours and textures will appear and I pay special attention to details. I was also inspired by the glam rock style of the 70s and these two ideas will be mixed together. This collection will be an evolution of the previous proposal.
And how do we visualize this safari glam on the catwalk?
To recreate the animals there will be feathers and specific patterns. You can also see patent materials, bright fabrics and a lot of colour because this proposal is about blocks of colour. I will also use the skin a lot because it is something that defines me and there will be elements from the world of the motor with biker jackets and jackets with military airs.
“The skin is the material that defines Mietis”
The skin as a material is also a symbol of Igualada, specifically the industrial district of Rec…
Yes, the skin connects with my brand and with my family. As a matter of fact the workshop of Mietis is located inside the tannery where my father has the factory.
How has the family business influenced you?
It has completely influenced me because my father beyond being a tanner and businessman also likes fashion. He encouraged me to pursue my dreams by launching a skin line and helped me create my own brand. On my part, I studied in Milan and just two years ago I graduated and I passed a pattern making and sewing course which was very useful for design.
Family support, visibility on the Catalan catwalk … It’s not a bad start!
Yes, in this case winning the prize of 080 has allowed me to launch my second collection and in my house I have part of the infrastructure of the tannery where I have the clothing and design workshop. The rest you have to do yourself and it consists of hours and hours of work.
“They have helped me, but the rest you have to do it yourself”
Even so, the beginnings must not have been easy…
They are difficult and you constantly need support from other external elements. Always look out and make contacts to avoid losing business opportunities. For example, the brand right now has a showroom in Paris wher the collections are on show to promote them in the different international markets.
What is the next challenge for Mietis?
The most immediate has been the launch of the website with a capsule collection of leather jackets and bags. Gradually, I will also be introducing the spring collection to see how it is responding amongst consumers. In parallel and with my team we are looking for new multi-brand distribution channels to make the brand bigger.
“In Gratacós there is always something new and interesting”
What role does Gratacós play in all this set up?
I have been coming to your shop since I was 17 years old and I made my first research work with your fabrics. I’ve also designed dresses and I’ve always come here since I’ve been in fashion. In Gratacós, I feel at home and I love the fabrics that you offer, especially the fancy ones. I rely a lot on the fabrics and then design the collections. I love your lace, brocade, Jacquards … There is always something new and interesting!
And how do you see the future of Mietis? Do you rule out working for others? I do not rule out collaborating or nurturing other brands, but today I am focused on what is mine and I am very excited to move forward.
The Gratacós questionnaire…
Your indispensable garment … A leather jacket
A fetish fabric … Organza
A colour you never give up … Bright colors
A designer you admire… Raf Simons
An infallible style rule… Always put some colour in your life
A space that inspires you… The Marchesi cafeteria in Milán
A word of advice for the designers starting out… Learn also how to sew
Your ‘leit motiv’… Put passion into your work
Los tejidos Gratacós en la pasarela 080 Barcelona Fashion: SS18
Designers confide in Gratacos to produce their designs. Proof of this is the presence of our fabrics in the garments exhibited at 080 Barcelona Fashion show.
On this occasion, artists such as Pilar del Campo, Colmillo de Morsa, Maria Roch, Gema Brain & Beast Sach confided in us and offered as every year transgressive catwalk creations with Gratacós fabrics. We paid attention to every detail to identify, at sight, some of the articles from the new season that you can already buy in our store.
Here are some references that did not go unnoticed:
1. Colmillo de Morsa
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The debut of Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco in the Catalan catwalk did not disappoint. Creators Colmillo de Morsa presented the proposal ‘Preludio’ inspired by the romantic sensibility of Chopin and the relationship with the writer George Sand. On this occasion, the collection Autumn-Winter 2017 was presented with garments as evocative as the music of the show. On the catwalk we saw bermudas and trousers with burgundy crepe, a cotton bomber jacket, a shirt with mini flowers and a beautiful silk organza blouse with floral inlays.
2. Maria Roch
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This Barcelona designer surprised with elaborate staging inspired by the kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing ceramics with gold and silver adding beauty to the broken pieces with history. Under this common thread, Maria Roch presented an intimate collection with Japanese air that included ultra feminine fluid cuts dresses. Pastel colors were not lacking in the colour palette, as well as vibrant colors such as red, blue or grass green. We make special mention to the impressive lame in pearl tones seen on the catwalk.
3. Gemma Sach
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The designer Gemma Sach, who has spent 25 years dedicated to fashion in the family business, debuted at 080 Barcelona Fashion with versatile garments from the ‘Eclipsi’ Autumn-Winter 2017 collection. Bright colors for the winter wardrobe, a variety of silks, treated velvets and sets of fabrics from the same range pursued by two of their principles: quality and comfort.
On a final note, we reveal details of some of the fabrics that you can already find in the store. Visit us and we will assist you!
080 Barcelona Fashion has now run 20 editions
080 Barcelona Fashion is celebrating. The catwalk, which will take place from 26 to 30 June in the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, is celebrating its 20th edition with a large fashion programme that goes beyond parades to include more parallel activities, business conferences, evening parties, special presentations and a guest of honour who will become one of the main advertisements for the Catalan catwalk.
The Missoni saga in Barcelona
In this edition, Margherita Missoni, third generation of the prestigious Italian firm, will collect the Fashion Tribute which the parade is devoting to his mother, Angela Missoni, current co – owner and creative director of the brand. In turn, Margherita will offer a talk about the Missoni saga and its influence on fashion entitled “The Missoni Family. Born into fashion “. This talk will be shared with Vogue ex-director Lisa Lowatt-Smith.
The debut of new talents
In the field of design there are some absentees, such as Sita Murt, Menchén Tomàs or TCN, but for the first time on the catwalk there are emerging talents like Mietis, Jnorig, AMT or the designers Colmillo de Morsa who we interviewed a few months ago. For the first time in Catalonia the designer Maria Roch will be in the parade with her feminine creations and the designers Elena Estaun and Gema Sach. They will join the catwalk cast along with the regular brands and designers from which we highlight Brain & Beast – whose daring and rebellious parade is always a must -. As is usual in summer editions, swimwear also takes centre stage on the catwalk with companies such as Red Point, Como un Pez en el Agua or Guillermina Baeza.
In total there are 37 designers and companies that will parade on the catwalk, with a clear modernist accent.
Special activities
To commemorate the 20 editions held over the decade, 080 Barcelona Fashion has scheduled a special calendar among which is the presentation of the capsule collection by the Catalan company Macson, which is celebrating 75 years in the business. It sees the debut as designer of the choreographer and dancer Rafael Amargo, the concert by Andrea Motis which is part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Nights and a special catwalk party entitled Anniversary party by Zalando. On the solidarity front the Catalan parade is also promoting a philanthropic action with the Casal dels Infants, by marketing a commemorative T – shirt designed from a figurine by the prestigious New York illustrator Rubén Toledo.
Finally, the parallel activities include the holding of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, which will be transformed into a fair and will be held on 28 and 29 June; it further includes the 080 Investor Day, the International Investment Forum of the Fashion Industry and the annual meeting of the textile-fashion sector, Texmeeting by TEXFOR.
Access all the programming of 080 Barcelona Fashion here.
In connection with young designers and the industry ‘s future we want to highlight the new edition of Barcelona Fashion Summit as a meeting of professionals in the fashion business. This time the conference will focus on the theme ‘Next Generation: the future of the fashion business’ with topics for analysis such as young business leaders, the new consumers, generational changes or new forms of management and business in the fashion industry.
08700 , Industry and Local Design in Igualada
We like initiatives which take into account all agencies within the sector and which provide a platform for the smallest companies, stick up for local industry and back those who need a push to reactivate a business which had been affected by the economic crisis. In this respect 080 Barcelona Fashion, via various public institutions in Catalonia and textile organisations, has provided the impulse for a new event for the promotion of textile and design in the l’Anoia region.
The initiative is called 08700- Nits de Pell i Punt ( Nights of Fur and Knitwear ) and next Thursday 23rd February in Igualada it will reunite a sample of designers and professionals within the sector in a single day-session where emerging designers and Catalan companies linked to leather-ware will participate in a fashion-parade. Below we give you more details about each of the participants:
1. Zer
The company set-up by the debutants Núria Costa and Anne Costo conceives of fashion as being each person’s demand for individuality. These two designers create knitted garments enhanced by the latest technological innovations.
2. Alicia González
This young designer has worked in the design department of companies such as Josep Font, Lydia Delgado, Guillermina Baeza and Mango. In Mango she discovered her passion for knitwear. In her company ODD ONE OUT Alicia González goes for an “urban luxury” style with knitted garments created with superior fibres and hand-crafted techniques. She offers quality, exclusivity and atemporality in clothes where the very last detail spoils the wearer.
3. Xavi Grados
After his appearance at 080 Barcelona Fashion the designer from Igualada combines his work in his own company with that he carried out in the design department of Punto Blanco. Xavi Grados carries the banner for his town with the knitwear and leather-work in each and every one of his garments placing emphasis on the raw materials.
4. Peletería VM La Sibèria
This celebrated Barcelona furrier, founded in 1891, continues tradition thanks to the passion for the job which each generation of the same family has inherited. Peletería VM La Sibèria are experts in producing the furs in locally-based work-shops where all attention is given to innovation and design.
In this economic and cultural encounter, which will take place in La Sala, in the Cercle Mercantil there will also be an exhibition of products designed by entrepreneurs and local brands produced in the region.
It offers a date with local industry at the end of a week full of activities linked to the fashion industry. Everything suggests that, in addition to the biennial fashion-parades, 080 Barcelona Fashion will continue its commitment to backing promotional initiatives in fashion which are springing up in various parts of Catalonia.
Gratacós fabrics on the 080 Barcelona Fashion catwalk
Following an intensive week of fashion shows where the creativity of the Catalan fashion industry has been evident, from Gratacós we would like to make special mention to those Autumn-Winter 2017/2018 collections that we liked most for one reason or another. Before analyzing the most interesting proposals we want to congratulate those given awards in the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion: the young talent Daniel Rosa, the designer Oscarleon, Antonio Miro and the textile firm Escorpion whose proposal was designed by Juanma Granero.
As in every edition, we like seeing that our fabrics are part of the garments, to taste and enjoy by their creators, and that these capture all the flashes on the catwalk.
1. The reflections of Pilar del Campo
Pilar del Campo started out on the Catalan catwalk with a reflective proposal that portrayed fashion as a mirror of society. Those things that give ourselves away and make us transparent and unconsciously show who we are and where we are at every moment. So, the proposal “Reflections” mixes garments with a large volume of futuristic glows on the shoulders and sleeves with shiny and metallic fabrics, mixed together with others with a more classic drapery aspect using materials such as lace or velvet. The latter tight on the body. A personal interpretation of current fashion where the contemporary co-exists with the traditional in equal proportions.
2. Justicia Ruano, hedonistic fashion
Justicia Ruano’s wife is feminine, delicate and sophisticated. To demonstrate these values and under the premise “L’art de vivre”, that emphasizes the capacity to enjoy the little things in life, the Barcelona born firm presented the “Hedonism” collection dedicated to happiness and pleasure. How? Through garments that enhance the silhouette in a provoking mixture of affluence and subtlety. Stiff fabrics together with other more flexible ones, transparencies with opaqueness and soft pastel colours with emerald, black or wine tones. A dual collection that coexists harmoniously.
3. Playback by Brain & Beast
Brain&Beast does not have middle ground. The visceral brand by Ángel Vilda fights against indifference using originality and transgression and they always astound. On this occasion, the brands embarks on the new triology with “Playback”, a gestural revision of this musical concept in a theatrical proposal full of contradictory meanings. To be highlighted, the disturbing messages on the tops, the demystification of the popular icons and transgender models. We like the canonization of tailoring, the oriental cuts and the new life given to our Jacquards. Bravo!
The most theatrical fashion
080 Barcelona Fashion is finalising preparations for a new edition which will exhibit the talent and creativity of 33 brands and designers who will present their collections for the coming season Autumn-Winter 2017/2018. This time the competition will take place from 30th January till 3rd February in the National Theatre of Catalonia (TNC) which is celebrating 20 years of existence. An archetypal stage-setting for Barcelona, conceived of in order to strengthen links between fashion and theatre. Given this motive it is not surprising that the inauguration of the fashion parade will welcome the presence of the celebrated French designer Pierre Cardin, who will come to Barcelona to present his new production “ Dorian Gray. Beauty shows no mercy”, a musical montage about the world of Oscar Wilde which had its première last summer in Venice.
On the creative front some great designers, such as Sita Murt or Menchèn Tomàs, are notable for their absence, although there are new additions, such as the young designers Daniel Rosa, Anel Yaos and Pilar del Campo, the company Aubergin, the designs for children by Little Creative Factory and men’s underwear E.S.Collection. Special mention should be made of the participation of designers who collaborate closely with our shop, such as Justicia Ruano, who will present his collection “Hedonism” for the rebel-seductress woman; also Brain and Beast with their presentation “Trilogy Vol Y Playback”. Angel Vilda will surely surprise with new designs whose aesthetic is that of the seventies and with large doses of humour- sometimes with a show of temper -whose conception we find fascinating. The fabrics in the collection are by Gratacós and soon we will be seeing the results.
Commercially one of the most surprising innovations is the introduction of the trend ready to buy – seen on other international fashion parades and in companies like Burberry or Tommy Hilfiger – in some of the collections by the Catalan designers. Specifically this is the case with companies such as Custo Barcelona, TCN, Escorpion and the designer ZE García. This means that the garments exhibited on the cat-walk can be bought on the spot and in this case they will correspond to displays from this coming Spring season. What seems all the more interesting is the offering by Manuel Bolano, who is adopting this trend; his presentation is in the format of an exhibition of his “’Plan B” collection, where he reinterprets studio pieces which will be commercialized exclusively on his web-page and which can be acquired on the same day of the parades. I see it, I want it, I’ll buy it.
In connection with the young designers and the future of the sector we should like to mention once again the new edition of Barcelona Fashion Summit as a meeting point for professionals in the fashion business. On this occasion the day-session will centre on the topic “Next Generation : the Future of the Fashion Business “ with analysis of topics such as the leading young entrepreneurs, the new consumers, the change in generations or the new forms of management and business demanded by the fashion industry.
