Designers confide in Gratacos to produce their designs. Proof of this is the presence of our fabrics in the garments exhibited at 080 Barcelona Fashion show.
On this occasion, artists such as Pilar del Campo, Colmillo de Morsa, Maria Roch, Gema Brain & Beast Sach confided in us and offered as every year transgressive catwalk creations with Gratacós fabrics. We paid attention to every detail to identify, at sight, some of the articles from the new season that you can already buy in our store.
Here are some references that did not go unnoticed:
1. Colmillo de Morsa
The debut of Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco in the Catalan catwalk did not disappoint. Creators Colmillo de Morsa presented the proposal ‘Preludio’ inspired by the romantic sensibility of Chopin and the relationship with the writer George Sand. On this occasion, the collection Autumn-Winter 2017 was presented with garments as evocative as the music of the show. On the catwalk we saw bermudas and trousers with burgundy crepe, a cotton bomber jacket, a shirt with mini flowers and a beautiful silk organza blouse with floral inlays.
2. Maria Roch
This Barcelona designer surprised with elaborate staging inspired by the kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing ceramics with gold and silver adding beauty to the broken pieces with history. Under this common thread, Maria Roch presented an intimate collection with Japanese air that included ultra feminine fluid cuts dresses. Pastel colors were not lacking in the colour palette, as well as vibrant colors such as red, blue or grass green. We make special mention to the impressive lame in pearl tones seen on the catwalk.
3. Gemma Sach
The designer Gemma Sach, who has spent 25 years dedicated to fashion in the family business, debuted at 080 Barcelona Fashion with versatile garments from the ‘Eclipsi’ Autumn-Winter 2017 collection. Bright colors for the winter wardrobe, a variety of silks, treated velvets and sets of fabrics from the same range pursued by two of their principles: quality and comfort.
On a final note, we reveal details of some of the fabrics that you can already find in the store. Visit us and we will assist you!
Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco are the creators of Comillo de Morsa, one of the most sought after independent labels inside “made in BCN” design. The brand, born in 2010, marked a turning point at the fashion show EGO Cibeles Madrid. It led them to exhibit their creations at the Paris show “Who’s Next” aswell as other significant achievements. This marks the start of a slow but steady international expansion as now they are concentrating on consolidating their work within Spain. Colmillo de Morsa has its own shop in the unique neighbourhood of Gracia, but is gaining presence in other designer spaces. It must be for a reason…
Your brand name is surprising. How did you come up with it?
Elisabet- Our name is a reflection of the concept of beauty. The tusk is a reference to ivory, a precious and valuable material. If it comes from the walrus it adds a more grotesque tone. We like the symbiosis of ideas because it is a way of expressing that beauty comes in many ways and can be found in the most unlikely of places. It all depends on who is looking at it and what they can find.
How has Colmillo de Morsa changed since your first catwalk show in Madrid? How have you evolved?
Javier- The essence is still there. We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles. Obviously there has been changes in structure because we have expanded and we adapt to the customer, but our way of thinking and approach to the brand is the same.
“We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles”
What is this essence you refer to?
Elisabet- In each collection we look for timeless models, checking patterns and key garments with classic cuts. In terms of fabrics, we like to work with silk, cotton, cashmere…We also have a second line made up of basic garments with a more casual touch for day to day wear. Everyone looks for comfort and a carefree style.
So, the creativity is present but you listen to the customer’s needs….
Javier- Exactly, creativity and design remain intact. We have simply expanded our criteria and offer a more diversified product but always within the same parametres.
Really, and what are those?
Javier- Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme. The clothes are made up responsibly here in the local workshop using environmentally-friendly materials. The customers confide in us because they now we offer design with quality.
“Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme”
That is the importance of finding your own personality within a saturated market…
Javier- Exactly. In Colmillo de Morsa we do not get carried away by trends. It is something we are very clear about and we like to do our own thing.
Elisabet- As we don’t compete with the fast fashion it seems pointless to be lagging behind market trends. What we strive to do is to make our product following our design and quality rules.
What role does Gratacós play in the creative process?
Elisabet- Firstly, it gives us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material that will achieve amazing results. Also, the huge variety of products they offer. In Gratacós we can buy all types of silks, georgette, organza…also the jacquards when we are looking for a something special for the most detailed garments in the collection.
“Gratacós give us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material”
Local brand with international expansion. Where are you heading?
Elisabet- Now we are in a transitional phase. It is true that a few years ago, we had international presence at fairs where we publicized our product, gained new customers and we sold in Singapure, Dubia, United States….The problem in the end was that by wanting to do so much, it limited our day to day because bear in mind we were a small team and we take of practically everything. Now we have an agent who looks after the international sales but we are concentrating more on the national market.
What are your goals for 2017?
Javier- Now Julia- Elisabet’s daughter-is with us, we want to concentrate more than ever on our shop. Even so, we are always on the lookout for new spaces to expand our workshop and we make new contacts to supply clothes to designer shops. We do not rule out the possibility of opening a new shop, but we will see.
Would you like Julia to be a designer?
Elisabet- Not at the moment – she laughs – she can decide herself when she is older…
The Gratacós questionnaire…
Your essential garment … A printed shirt
A fetish fabric… Any type of silk
A colour you would never forgo… Black
The designer you admirer… Sarah Burton (Javier) and Jil Sander (Elisabet)
An infallible style rule… Always have at hand a good coat or an oversized shirt
Your favourite space in Barcelona… The Korean barbeque Yalujiang situated in Roger de Flor
A piece of advice for designers starting up… They should be clear on the what, where and for whom before launching
Your “leitmotif” … Do what you like
