Collage: 1. Rodarte, 2. Gonçalo Peixoto, 3. Mariano Moreno, 4. ON RUSH, 5. Joplin Atelier, 6. Acuamona. Courtesy of the brands
Maroon, scarlet, burgundy, wine, cherry… There are many ways to refer to the range of dark reds with a blue or violet touch. This range of possibilities encompasses a captivating colour, synonymous with luxury, power and status, which seduces with its warmth and has fascinated both designers and artists throughout the centuries. This autumn 2024, it is once again taking centre stage on the catwalks, reaffirming its place as an elegant, versatile and personality-filled colour. Some call it “the new neutral”, but why does this dark shade of red have such a timeless, almost bewitching appeal? We will explore its history, psychology and the reason for its triumphant return in this season’s collections.
Origin of Colour. On Wine, Clothing and Theatricality
The garnet or burgundy colour Marsala is named after the famous red wines from the Burgundy region of France, known for their refinement. This connection makes it a colour associated with wealth, luxury and sophistication. In 2015, Pantone elevated this association – between fashion and wine – by crowning Marsala as the hue that would guide industrial design, fashion, beauty, furniture and interior decoration. For that year, the international colour authority imagined a world tinged with “a warm, yet elegant hue that is universally attractive and easily transposed into multidisciplinary arts”. Pantone considered Marsala to be equally attractive to men and women, capable of moving and awakening the sense of taste, as well as inciting creativity and experimentation with colour.
If we look back in history, the use of burgundy in textiles and clothing goes back much further than its contemporary name. Since ancient times, dark red dyes were prized for their rarity and the status they conferred on those who could afford to wear them. During the Middle Ages and Renaissance, burgundy dyes were extremely expensive due to the rare ingredients needed to produce them, such as the Tyrian purple snail or madder root. Consequently, this colour was reserved for aristocracy and royalty, who wore garments in dark reddish tones to symbolise power and authority. At the court of Henry VIII, for example, burgundy was a shade frequently used by high nobility, such as Mary Tudor, who wore an iconic burgundy velvet dress at her wedding to Louis XII of France in 1514. Another historical reference is found in the burgundy velvet and satin dresses worn by European royal women in the 18th century, such as Marie Antoinette, whose taste for rich, deep colours set a trend in court fashion.
In modern times, burgundy remains associated with theatricality and drama. Consider the shade of a theatre curtain and drapery. In cinema, this vibrant shade has been immortalised in films such as Gone with the Wind, where Scarlett O’Hara wears a majestic dress in this shade, designed to convey both power and sensuality. The colour has also been a key element in contemporary films such as Moulin Rouge, where it is used to enhance the drama and passion of the characters.
Why is it back in fashion this Autumn 2024? From the catwalk to the streets
Burgundy combines the passion of red with the depth of brown, evoking luxury, ambition and power. It is a versatile shade that suits different skin tones: on light skin, it highlights its luminosity; on dark skin, it provides sophistication without being strident. Its intensity varies depending on the material it is used on, acquiring a visual texture that can be modern and minimalist in fabrics such as satin, or luxurious and opulent in velvet.
Garnet is the star of the autumn-winter collections, both in monochrome looks and in daring combinations. From sixties trench coats combined with platform loafers and structured bags, as proposed by Sabato De Sarno for Gucci, to tailored suits in the collections of Roksanda and Ferragamo . In a more casual version, Lacoste opts for jumpsuits combined with oversized coats, creating a mix between comfort and style.
This shade also lights up autumn evenings, where fitted leather microdresses stand out in the collections of Thierry Mugler and Ermanno Scervino. Other proposals include bow tops and pleated trousers in the collection of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, providing a second skin in burgundy that redefines discreet luxury. In addition, burgundy is combined with neutral tones, such as beige or midnight blue, in proposals by Victoria Beckham and Khaite, or with bolder colours such as fuchsia, in a bold bet championed by Pierre Cardin.
And in fabrics… What do we recommend?
At Gratacós, we fall in love with burgundy, a classic that never goes out of style. This shade is enhanced in luxurious fabrics that allow you to play with texture and movement. To get the most out of it, we recommend these materials:
1. Silks and satins: Ideal for elegant garments with a fluid drape that enhances the sensuality of the garnet.
2. Wool cloths: Perfect for coats and outerwear, transmitting warmth and sophistication in winter looks.
3. Velvet: Provides depth and a luxurious air that turns any garment into a special piece.
4. Lace and tulle: For romantic and feminine looks, ideal for evening events or more delicate garments.
Check out our seasonal collection in our online store and discover the fabrics that best suit your style. Don’t miss the opportunity to be captivated by this timeless colour!
