Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand.  ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic.  Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …

What is your plan B?

My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.

What do you mean by basic?

When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.

“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”

Was this at the request of your clientele ?  Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …

Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand.  We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black.  At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.

The concept of timelessness in your brand …

Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments?  It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always.  The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour.  At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.

Tell me more details about the collection …

The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams.  The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments.  The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier.  That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.

“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”

And how do you operate things ?

The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier.  I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.

It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …

Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.

By the way, you have changed the location of the studio.  You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …

Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home.  I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.

“I want the client to feel at home”

What is your link with Gratacós?

I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.

Do you remember how you got to know us?

Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona.  I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !”  At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop.  It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.

About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”

I did not know we were so impressive …

At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind.  Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.

Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?

Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.

What challenges do you face for this year?

For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough.  Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…

The Gratacós questionnaire …

Your essential garment … A shirt

A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric

A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red

The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.

An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks

Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri

Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play

Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid