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(Español) Designers Fashion Experiences: Celia Vela
Designers Fashion Experiences: Francis Montesinos
After the valuable teaching imparted by Alejandro Resta and Núria Sarda, this month one of the big needles has come by the Gratacós space : Francis Montesinos. The popular Valencian designer took over the show in the third presentation organized by the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences for the second year running during the autumn months . With a casual language, some humour and a rich portfolio of anecdotes that review his extensive career in the sector, Montesinos knew how to win the love of the public (students and lovers of fashion in general) who did not hesitate to write down the advice and learn from the ins and outs of his professional career.
We review some of the questions from the interview as well as their answers. For even more detail you can read the information on the website Designers Fashion Experiences.
How does Francis Montesinos understand fashion?
Fashion is my way of life. I started when I was very young, when I was about 14 years old, I began to know it existed and I was already browsing to find out more about it. At 15, I started creating clothes. At that time I had a girlfriend and I made her clothes: I went to the fabric stores, I looked at the magazines … I discovered how things were done like a collar or sleeves. Without realizing it, I learned the first part of fashion, a part that is not real but wonderful.
Remind us of those beginnings after that first phase and, how was the sector in the 70s?
At that time there was nothing in Valencia and in 1974 I came to Barcelona. I have to add that everything I had learned did not help me at all. I remember that I started in the industrial area of Barcelona and that’s where I set up my first workshop. I was very lucky because I lived a moment of change, of transition between haute couture and prêt porter -A- and I could count on the expertise of the pattern makers . In 1984, I went to Madrid, where the Madrid movement started, but in fact it was also made up of designers from all over Spain. Also to mention that I lived the hippie movement in Spain that also influenced my collections. That’s why I tell you that I’ve had the good fortune to experience two great changes in fashion and learn from them.
“The Madrid movement and hippie movement have influenced my designs”
What is the value and importance of the fabrics?
At that time I liked fabrics a lot, like I do today. I remember going to markets to touch the fabrics, to feel their shape and to imagine what I would do with them. It was as if the fabric was telling me what to do with it, not the other way around. That is why I always say the same thing: it is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it. Personally, I like natural and organic fabrics like cottons, silks, wool … I think they are more authentic.
What values would you like to transmit to the new generations?
Perseverance. I think you do not have to get tired of yourself, you have to learn to turn things around, to do new things without losing the signs of identity that is the most important thing in your career. In my case, prints with unique colors identify my work. In this profession you also have to be fast and patient at the same time and it is very difficult to achieve both simultaneously.
Francis Montesinos will have experienced some failure …
Yes. In the whole of my career I only decided to close once because of a mistake in the past in the registration of the brand that got me into debt financially and damaged my creativity, but then fortunately I saw that it was nonsense and I decided to fight. I promised myself that I would get back up, and I did.
“It is very important to touch a fabric, appreciate it and know what you will do with it”
What are the keys to success in each parade? It is the work of a team that is exposed in just a few minutes…
I am one of the few who do everything. I want to say that I do not let anyone put the music on, the lights, the outfits … Now I do not get as nervous as before because I have a team of young people who know how to do everything.
What is the importance of interpreting a design? The work of the designers and seamstresses …
I remember Mrs. Concha, who was the head of the workshop, she had the upmost patience to make me see how important her profession was because I gave more importance to design than to the production. From this I learned a valuable lesson: the day you find a pattern maker, treat her with love because they are worth gold.
How do you deal with the ego?
I have never thought about being famous. Never in my life. I have always thought that I like this profession and that I want to learn from it every day. I enjoy my profession and thats it.
What is your best design?
The best design I’ve done is the one I have not done yet because once I’ve made a design I do not like it anymore. I mean, once I created it, it has lost the mystery. I’m passionate about doing something new.
“I have never thought about being famous”
Who would you like to dress up?
I ‘ve already said it on previous occasions that I like to undress more than dress -he laughs-. I believe that there must be a communion between the brand and the client . If you do not like it, you will not wear the dress, that is obvious.
And finally, tell us about the business. How to survive?
The textile business has always been very problematic and the “rag” is what gives you the least money. There are other aspects that are more profitable, such as designing a pair of glasses, a mobile phone … You have to try to work your way up bit by bit.
Designers Fashion Experiences: Núria Sardà
Last week we had the pleasure of welcoming to Gratacós Núria Sardà, designer for the women ‘s lingerie company, Andres Sarda. Nuria has continued the legacy of her father by maintaining the essence of the brand, one that combines sophistication, elegance and femininity with soft linen garments, lightweight shapes and fascinating colours that embellish every woman’s body. Within the framework of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences Nuria explained to those present the keys to success, which also deal with the adaptation and evolution of the brand to the new demands of the market. She left them with some valuable advice.
We interviewed Núria Sardà to learn about some of her concerns. Remember that you can recover the conversation we had last week on the website of Designers Fashion Experiences.
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Why have you participated in the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences?
I like to support new designers as much as possible and these conferences seem to me a good reason for doing so. In addition the organization has given me a lot of confidence.
Andres Sarda has extensive professional experience which unites generations of the same family. What can you explain from your own experience?
Each person lives their own experience and it is always good to know it firsthand. In this day-session I have focused on the opportunities and also on some obstacles that I have had in my career.
I gather that your passion for design is inherited …
Not really, I never thought about dedicating myself to the world of design. I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it .
“I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it “
If you could go back in time, would you go back to design?
Yes, it’s a very stressful, fun and changeable job. It allows you to meet interesting people and tour the world. My daily routine is not strictly routine and allows me to express all my creativity. It is also true that it is a world where you are very exposed and your creations are judged severely by the company, the business world and lastly the customers. In this sense if everything goes well it is fantastic, but you also suffer because in each collection you put head, heart and soul. And there are many hours of work!
What obstacles are there in the fashion industry?
More than obstacles, I would call it circumstances. The offer, the distribution, the customers and their motivations. In this sector everything changes very quickly. We companies have to adapt to changes and advance according to to market movements.
“In every collection you put head, heart and soul”
Then adaptation is a tool that ensures survival. Which would you most emphasise?
From my point of view you need to have your personality in the creations, the quality and the reliability of the product and the company. This has to be coupled with adaptation and evolution of market needs, as I said previously.
What do you recommend to future designers?
That they should do what they do, make sure that their work is always original and that they contribute some innovation. Let them follow their instinct and never give up.
“We always have to look for excellence in everything we do”
Tips that might be a good leitmotiv…
Yes, we always have to look for excellence in everything we do.
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Designers Fashion Experiences: Alejandro Resta
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Gratacós aloja la nueva edición del Designers Fashion Experiences
Gratacós “begins the school year” hosting in our shop in Barcelona the second edition of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences, some lectures given by designers who succeed in the fashion industry with their respective businesses. The goal is to share experiences, reflect situations, explain anecdotes to young fashion and design students to create synergies together. Some collect the testimony and others expose new ideas or situations in a kind of “face to face” where the barriers between experts and beginners are broken.
According to David Boix, organizer of the initiative, the second edition is optimistic: “We are very happy to be able to celebrate a new edition after the success of the first edition and we look forward to it with great joy and positivism.” Boix promises some changes in regards to the first edition. “We will delve into some issues such as brand identity, the fashion business or the threats and real fears that affect the sector,” he said. A consistent strategy to share more practical and real issues with the current situation, encouraging feedback from the students and increase participation in social networks.
The conference Designers Fashion Experiences will be supported by four designers spread over the four months of the last quarter of 2017. In this edition, Alejandro Resta, Núria Sarda, Francis Montesinos and Celia Vela will participate.
An ideal scenario
Gratacós is one of the sponsors of the presentations, but this year they have also divested part of their store to the development of the conference becoming an informative space where networking is promoted. “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles,” says David Boix. And he adds: “It is a good reference for the fashion of Barcelona”. The conference will be held on the top floor of the store that will be equipped for the occasion, and facilitating also the lecturers and students with the possibility to show the fabrics of the season for the development of each talk.
David Boix: “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles”.
The first meeting will be next Wednesday, September 13 with the Valencian designer Alejandro Resta. The get together is at 18:30. Get your invitation here. We hope to see you there!
Casa Gracia, just like being at home
Staying in a hostel is not always synonymous with bunk-beds, shared toilets, food which leaves something to be desired and in general little space for intimacy. In Barcelona you can stay in luxury at competitive prices in places which right down to the last detail spoil those travellers who prefer this type of accommodation yet without sacrificing a smidgeon of comfort. What’s more, if they are aficionados of local customs and cuisine, then what more can they ask for?
One iconic place in the city- situated very close to our workshop – is Casa Gracia, which is considered the first luxury hostel for what it offers in terms of comfort, design, culture and food. It is a place which is integrated into the picturesque district of Gràcia and which stakes a claim for local district tourism as the best way of getting to know the essence of a city.
Casa Gracia has 145 different rooms available, from the most basic to the suites with balconies and patios which look out over the celebrated street Paseo de Gracia. The intention is to be able to welcome all manner of guests, from different countries of origin and with differing purchasing power, people who share the desire to mix with other travellers and to discover local life, far distant from the crowded areas and “beach flip-flops” tourism.
As we mentioned at the beginning, the most interesting facet of this tastefully decorated establishment is its gastro-cultural side, grouping together both tourists who are passing through and residents of Barcelona. It is a meeting- point for establishing conversations, sampling local-produce dishes, setting up informal meetings or simply sipping a large cup of coffee on one of the long sofas. Among the attractions available mention should be made of the bistro La Paisana, the cocktail-bar BIS, the private lounge for dinners Petit Bis or the multi-functional area De Tranquis. What’s more, this area also is a venue for book presentations, exhibitions and conferences open to the public ; recently the fashion dialogues Designer Fashion Experiences, in which we, as patrons, were participants, took place here.
If you are looking for a moment of relaxation, in the basement there is a small spa available to guests, whilst the lounge No Mas Té is an area given over to cultural events and yoga classes.
Just like home, or even better…
Casa Gracia, Designers Fashion Experiences, gratacos, Lifestyle Barcelona
The success of Designers Fashion Experiences
The first edition of the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences is drawing to an end, leaving behind a good taste in the mouth both for the organisers and the participants of the day-sessions, with enriching experiences which have served to strengthen both the professional career and personal life of the designers. “This format has helped participants to understand what are the essential nuts and bolts of the companies, both through positive situations of expansion and innovation and through other negative ones which have only made them stronger”, was the verdict of David Boix, the director of the initiative. A stimulus both for the young people just starting out and for companies such as Gratacós which are actively linked to this so talented industry.
The sessions of Designers’ Fashion Experiences took place last Autumn in Casa Gracia ( Passeig de Gracia 116 ) via 6 inspirational presentations given by Dolores Cortés, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miguel Suay, Jordi Dalmau, Oscarleon and Txell Miras.
Here you will find a résumée of each session:
1. Dolores Cortés
The Spanish company specialising in bathroom fashion set out differing points of view of the fashion industry, covering the family origins of the company from its beginnings until the present day and detailing certain concepts which are linked to the design of the collections. Dolores Cortés left those present with one very clear premise: the need to be faithful to brand values. In this case the company is linked with loyalty, honesty and the family, always bearing in mind the need to adapt to new times.
2. Llamazares y de Delgado
Fabrizio Pérez and Jaime Martínez are the designers of Llamazares y de Delgado, a company based in Barcelona which is tenaciously surviving the continual ups and downs within the sector. The keys to survival are via conscience, self-criticism, financing and relations with suppliers, without losing sight of the criterion of proximity to all processes: design, production, promotion and sales.
3. Miquel Suay
The Valencian designer concentrated specifically on the creative process and how he finds inspiration in his collections by adding valuable advice, such as how to give shape to an idea and where to source and research in order to survive and prosper day to day as a design professional. Creativity alone is never sufficient in order to be successful in the sector. Rather it must always be accompanied by good business-practice, applying market strategies.
4. Jordi Dalmau
The designer of bridal fashion explained to those present his motive for setting up as a brand, the family support in creating an artistic partnership, the limits that he continually crosses in order to remain innovative in the bridal-wear market. He emphasised the need for uniqueness in every design as a symbol of identity. One piece of advice remained imprinted on the students: “Giving up the fight means giving up everything.” He certainly will not throw in the towel.
5. Oscarleon
A graduate in design, pattern-making, stylism and image consultancy, the designer created his own collection in 1996 and since then has never stopped working for his own brand, an activity that he combines with the design of collections for other companies. In the session the designer took the opportunity to chat with participants about their own beginnings, making reference to the transformation of fabrics, financing and the balance betwen creation and production.
6. Txell Miras
The designer from Sabadell founded her own brand in 2004 and in this time has succeeded in giving a distinctive creative seal to her collections. Txell Miras chatted to the students about her experience with Neil Barret, with whom she worked for 13 years. She talked about starting out in business and the obstacles she overcame in order to survive in the complex market of creating a hallmark One final piece of advice :” Either study abroad or work in such a way that you are continually learning, so as to get the best out of every experience.” She says that on the basis of her own experience.
Designers Fashion Experiences has confirmed a second edition for 2017 and here at Gratacós they have our firm support. It is a pleasure to back initiatives like this one !
‘Fashion meets fashion’
A new initiative has been launched for the design sector in Cataluña which aims to interchange synergies through didactical meetings. It’s called Designers Fashion Experiences and consists of monthly meetings between designers, professionals and renowned celebrities of the sector both on a national and international level. It is an opportunity for fashion students to learn the business from different perspectives and enhance their professional career. An incentive for the students to pursue their careers with advice and new points of view through the voice of experience from those who have succeeded in the fashion industry.
In the 4th trimester of 2016, there will be 6 presentations carried out by the following designers: Dolores Cortés in swimwear, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miquel Suay, Jordi Dalmau in bridal fashion, Oscarleon and Txell Miras. The conferences will take place in Casa Gracia, situated in Passeig de Gràcia, 116. This multiplural space symbolizes a world of travels, comparable to the path the designers have to take to get to know the fashion world. Creativity, colour, composition, innovation and hidden textures amongst different cultures and destinations.
This space is ideal to transmit the experiences of the designers, explaining the details of the smallest and greatest moments, and sharing their experiences with the students who in the future will become fashion creators, nourishing a new generation of this creative industry.
Gratacós supports Designers Fashion Experiences. As a family business dedicated to textile and linked to established creators and new talents, every year we promote new initiatives associated with training and development of fashion students.
The first conference will take place the upcoming 28th September 15, 2016 and will last until December. The aim is to repeat the experience a second time round in 2017.
