September leaves behind the balance of the first Spanish virtual catwalks, held in Madrid and Barcelona in a linked way. Despite becoming digital platforms, the presentation format of a collection remains practically intact: through a catwalk show, adapted to the new times. Gratacós has been following each one of the presentations and, as always, we have managed to identify some of our seasonal fabrics in the original garments presented by the designers who support us. Once again, thank you for your trust!
Dominnico embraces science fiction
If there is something that Dominnico has, it is that, in a short time, he has managed to create an identifiable style, aesthetic codes and his own language on and off the catwalks. And it is not easy at all with the times we are living in. The brand Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro exhibited his credentials in the last edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. How? Embracing the retrofuturist aesthetic, his taste for the Bauhaus art movement, pop culture, and manga. Now, Dominnico has taken science fiction as a reference to devise the woman of the future. Thus, in UHURA, the collection for next summer, the Alicante designer has drawn through his enigmatic designs a space traveler, empowered and fighter, technological and romantic. The eccentric Leeloo from The Fifth Element; the stylish officer Nyota Uhura from Star Trek; the sexy Vanessa Kensington from Austin Power or the exotic Nina Williams and Ling Xiaoyu , Manga muses from Tekken par excellence, are some of the characters that emerge in the creator’s imagination.
The colour of the new collection travels between watercolor tones such as water green , storm blue, lilac and pastel yellow or other more earthy tones such as tile; the brand’s characteristic holographic bright colours, without forgetting black and white passing to more resounding ones such as red and orange. In terms of materials, guipure plays a leading role in this new proposal, deconstructed and mixed with leather with laminated textures and fur, introducing lamé, sequins, elastic crepe and fringed lurex. Do you recognize any of our fabrics?
Katherine Hepburn inspires Angel Schlesser
Angel Schlesser, under the creative baton of Juan Carlos Mesa since June, was inspired by the actress Katherine Hepburn as an icon of contemporary, independent, personality and risky women. An actress who, during her professional career of more than six decades, maintained her own style that moved perfectly in ambiguity: she defied the masculine and feminine codes, being equal to or more modern than contemporary actresses. A series of virtues that represent Angel Schlesser’s urban and cosmopolitan woman, who always lives in the present with one foot in the future and without renouncing her past.
The lines of the collection are simple, of great purity in the cut and in the finishes. Fluid silhouettes, designed for comfort without restricting movement. Garments such as shirt dresses, cape skirts, narrow, straight, wide trousers, trouser-skirts; trench coats , kaftans , short and long evening dresses. A whole series of garments to give women freedom and not limit their choice with a wide range of fabrics and noble materials to cover all needs, cotton poplin and voile, linen, silk twill and satin, jaquards and printed sequins, metallic and lame effects. Juan Carlos Mesa does not set limits to honour the Schlesser woman.
Brain & Beast celebrates 10 years of transgressive fashion
The irreverent signature of Ángel Vilda turns 10 years old and has celebrated it again on the catwalks, doing a double in Madrid and later, in Barcelona. At Brain&Beast nothing is what it seems at first glance and behind each collection of deconstructed garments, printed t-shirts, layer-by-layer looks and a mix of colours, fabrics, reliefs and prints, there is always an easily recognizable identity and a hidden message, an intentionality and this is ambiguous because if something characterizes Vilda’s signature is the game, the double meanings and the fun that later invites reflection. The rogue fashion that stirs consciences. In fact, Angel Vilda first builds stories and those stories are translated into clothes. Then, those clothes end up in the wardrobe of other people who in turn interpret new stories, dressed in those unique clothes.
On this occasion, Brain & Beast presented in Madrid the ‘Dogma’ collection for next spring-summer 2021. A new proposal that combines a new philosophical doctrine that serves as a starting point to present genderless garments on the catwalk that rightly combine emotion with models that represent a display of diversity: professional mannequins with friends of Angel himself are the best ambassadors of these fresh and carefree collections designed for an unprejudiced public. In Barcelona, Brain & Beast prepared a whole show to celebrate this first decade by displaying those closest to them in a great party with bizarre hues. Like it or not, Brain & Beast is just like that, unconventional.
Menchén Tomàs pays tribute to light in a brilliant proposal
Menchén Tomàs, led by Olga Menchén, kicked off the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion with a splendid collection to honor her 25 years of know-how. As usual, the proposal focused on the festive universe with a catwalk show dominated by dresses and sets of two pieces that suggest sensuality and elegance in each movement. Silhouettes of refined cuts, delicate and silky fabrics, pure colours and a palette inspired by the tones of the sunset make up the collection called ‘Reflexos’.
Mans, between ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring
Mans is one of the most interesting Spanish menswear firms in the country. Creative director, Jaime Alvarez has managed to build a powerful brand identity moving between the ready-to-wear and made to measure tailoring. In fact, Mans’s goal is clear: to offer a complete hybrid wardrobe with quality, versatile basic garments and a progressive design, focused on self-confident people who know what they are looking for in fashion.
The garments of the new spring-summer 2021 collection are inspired by the colors, silhouettes and above all by the attitude of the characters portrayed in them, which are rescued from the photographic work of Slim Aarons . In this new proposal, an inventive line can be identified in the collection and its patterns, based on the bucolic multiculturalism that Aarons expressed in his images. Robes and tuxedos that transport us to the parties portrayed by the American photographer in which we are presented with an idealized society, according to the environment of the location. From Capri to Palm Springs, passing through the gardens of Marrakech. This reality portrayed in the images has been represented by the use of the brand’s own prints, where nude silhouettes and more abstract prints make a parallel between the idealization of the works and the anatomy of the body and nature.
ONRUSHW23FH debuts on the Catalan catwalk
The young designers Albert Sánchez and Sebastián Cameras, aged 24 and 22, are the creators of ONRUSHW23FH, one of the debuting firms at the last edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. A brand that is part of their final degree project and that consisted of the creation of a collection presented in 2019, later being consolidated in the current project. In fact, the Sánchez and Cameras tandem already had our fabrics in their project and now, in their premiere at 080, they have counted on us again.
ONRUSHW23FH presented the collection ‘ Almost There ‘ with a reflection in the background at the Sant Pau Modernista Campus. In fact, the designers started from the idea of a liquid society and the immediacy that it implies developed by the sociologist Zygmunt Bauman to base a collection that is inspired by the movement caused by doing things quickly. A utopia that brings the dynamism, wrinkles and simplicity of chaos that are part of this proposal. Among his designs, we find a rich visual imagery that reveals the immediacy and agitation of arriving at your destination at all costs. Garments that are twisted, overlapped or with silhouettes completely displaced from their centers are created from a novel process that mixes 3D prototypes of toile on the mannequin. A technique that allows you to make a selection that is later digitally transformed to achieve more interesting volumes. The result is a timeless and genderless collection that works as a satirical portrait of the concept of haste that marks us as individuals.
Something is cooking in Georgia that is catching the spotlight of the fashion industry. In the last decade this Caucasian country has been in full creative ferment, influencing various disciplines such as art, design and of course also fashion. Its capital, Tbilisi, is an authentic breeding ground for emerging designers who through their creativity are setting a hallmark for the industry, eager for novelties and ready to always hunt new talents. Among the most relevant creative designers at international level, for example, is Demna Gvasalia, who has revolutionized the landscape with her ironic and impractical designs for Vetements and her success has led her to become the creative director of Balenciaga. Another outstanding influencer is David Koma,who heads the company Thierry Mugler and his own eponymous brand based in London. Gvasalia and Koma represent the two most visible leaders of a new group of designers who are making waves in the Caucasian region.
Obviously Tbilisi still cannot compete with Paris, London, Milan or New York, but little by little, the Tbilisi Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is gaining prestige and relevance within the international scene. Among all the independent designers who have presented the latest collections on the cat-walk we are following closely the designs of Anouki Areshidze with her own brand Anouki , the creations of Gvantsa Janashia, who usually relies on our fabrics to elaborate the looks of the latest collections, the Dalood firm led by its founder Maka Kvitsiani, the Gegesha brand , the luxurious creations of Ani Datukishvili and the minimal style of Keti Chkhikvadze. These designers with almost unpronounceable names habitually rely on our fabrics to develop their wild creations.
This cat-walk also generates fascination among the fashionistas who attend the parades dressed in a fresh and modern street style style and who fill dozens of photo galleries. Fashion magazines are in fact increasingly becoming aware of this effervescence that is appreciated and spread among the people at street level who dictate trends. That is why it is increasingly common to see international media photographers capturing every detail of the outfits of Georgian it-girls and it-boys.
Dominnico shines at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi
One person we cannot ignore is Dominnico and his staging on the Georgian catwalk in early November, which has been the first international experience of the Alicante designer in the world of fashion. It should be remembered that Domingo Rodríguez won the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent award during last July’s edition of the Madrid catwalk. This award brings together young talents and promises them a tempting reward: the cat-walk at the Tblisi Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Thus Dominnico has had another opportunity to present his winning collection ‘Harajuku Kids’, exhibited during the month of September in our creative area in Barcelona. The SS20 collection is inspired by the movement that is trending on the Internet and the colours chosen by artists such as Andy Dixon or Antoni Tudisco with mannequins that resemble Bratz dolls. Their characteristic designs go for tornasolado plastic, brilli-brilli fabrics, magnificent creations in fur and billowing dresses which also captivated the Georgian public.
We will be following closely the work of Domingo Rodríguez and from Gratacós we thank you for your support and trust. Thanks Dominnico!
The rise of Dominnico was foreseen . It was just a matter of time for his meteoric career to take off. And this ascension has only just begun. Now, the restless Domingo Rodríguez has landed himself a new achievement that consolidates him within the map of young promises of Spanish fashion : becoming the winner of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent.
“Winning this award means fulfilling a dream.It represents the start of my firm and the beginning of a new stage for this project “, explained the young designer after winning the prestigious award.In fact, the designer has already begun to gain fame outside our borders.At only 24 years of age, Dominic has dressed personalities from the world of entertainment such as Lady Gaga, Rita Ora or Rosalía, who have worn the outfits ,made in part with our fabrics on tours around the world.
His impeccable dressmaking, his huge national and international projection, his early maturity and his commercial outlook have been some of the attributes that have fascinated the jury. A project with a speech of its own and true to its essence that has made him the winner of the 14th edition of this contest that rewards young talents.
Domingo Rodríguez: “inning this award means fulfilling a dream and the beginning of a new stage for Dominnico”
An ode to Generation Z
The award-winning collection , presented on the Madrid catwalk , is called Harajuku Kids and it is inspired by Club Kids, the London generation of the nineties, but also in the new digital era, centreed above all on social networks. Artists like Andy Dixon, Antoni Tudisco, Six N. Five, or the influencer Ruby Gloom have also been taken into account in the conception of the collection. A proposal that also takes into account the urban tribes of Japan and is conceived as agender, away from labels with extravagant shapes and silhouettes that are an invitation to individualism and character.
The collection, replete with Gratacós fabrics, is impregnated with textures, sequins, laminates, tulles, overlays and volumes wrapped in a range of pastel colours. In this way, inheritance, actuality and even future mix thanks to a sweetness and femininity unusual in Dominnico that advances to gain maturity in its style.
Next stop Georgia
Beyond the recognition, the prize includes the possibility of a catwalk next November at the international Mercedes-Benz Tilti Fashion Week in Georgia. A moment in which the designer from Alicante will already be presenting the winter collection of the following year. In this way, Domingo Rodríguez joins the successful group of great young talents who got this award back in the day, such as Outsiders Division, Célia Valverde, Juan Carlos Pajares, Ela Fidalgo, Xavi Reyes, María Clè Leal, David Catalán, Ernesto Naranjo or Pepa Salazar.
There are powerful alliances, which work perfectly because they arise naturally and spontaneously. And the result is most impressive when a whole team of professionals coordinates to achieve a single goal which goes beyond surprise or emotion. In this cTase we are talking about the union between fashion and music through our latest collaborations which can be seen in the latest edition of Primavera Sound with some talented names within each discipline. Yes, we are pleased to say that Gratacós has jumped onto the stage via the wardrobe of three young artists with a lot of potential: Rosalía, Nathy Peluso and María José Llergo.
What was the collaboration?
Following one of our principles as a company, which is to support future professionals within the sector, whether young talents or established designers, as well as to develop cooperation with them, we faced a very motivating challenge earlier this year. The companies Dominnico, headed by the Alicante designer Domingo Lázaro Rodríguez and Colmillo de Morsa, from Barcelona contacted us offering a collaborative project which had us hooked from the very first moment. These companies were going exclusively to design the costumes of Rosalía and Nathy Peluso, designs that the artists would exhibit in person during their promotional tours around the world. In the case of Primavera Sound we also had the collaboration of Manuel Bolaño who sought to surprise with a design created for the performance of the singer María José Llergo.
These companies, which are friends and customers, were looking for something innovative, exclusive and of high quality for the costumes of the artists, something that would cause a real stir for its creativity and exclusivity! They know that we as fabric designers can count on a range of creations which meet these needs. Moreover, sometimes it is through the raw materials – in this case the fabric – that from the start the craziest ideas take their shape. And that point of slightly mad experimentation is what we adore and are entertained by ! In addition we firmly believe in the project of these three companies and the people behind them. So we were delighted to collaborate in the project of dressing three young divas of contemporary music at Primavera Sound .
For the occasion Dominnico chose a wonderful Jacquard padded in bubblegum pink with iridescent stitchings to create that stunning amazon look worn by Rosalia in her performance at Primavera Sound. That fabric was present in the corset which the Catalan artiste wore with pronounced shoulder pads . The outfit was complemented by a jacket and matching leggings, which were defined at the waist with gold appliques. This bold outfit,which was inspired by the ‘ Dirty ‘ style of Christina Aguilera also bore the design and styling of Daikyri , Rosalia’s sister.Nobody was left indifferent by this wardrobe . We should mention the sure value of Domminico , which already counts as clients other international fashion and show artists such as Lady Gaga, who has worn the brand on three occasions .
In the case of Colmillo de Morsa , the challenge was to dress Nathy Peluso , the Argentinian artist now based in Barcelona whose successful music ” is capable of making hip-hop danceable and accompanied by jazz”, and whose trap aesthetic captivates the young generation Z. They also recently designed for Berskha a capsule collection which embodied their aesthetic references. The designer Elisabet Vallecillo chose a cotton embroidery to make the countless metres of ruffles that she used to design the spectacular cascaded skirt and the top with crossed neckline worn by the Argentine artist. The embroidery was white and the designer dyed it afterwards to achieve this reddish tone so exuberant for an outfit inspired by Havana.
Finally, Manuel Bolaño was commissioned to devise a spectacular coat for María José Llergo . The Cordovan singer of 24 years , resident in the Gràcia district of Barcelona, is one of the young promises of singer-songwriting, as she writes and composes with a very unique style of flamenco rooted in and linked to her land of origin. Bolaño chose black taffeta to make for her a beautiful and impressive maxi coat that did not go unnoticed among the spectators of Primavera Sound .
The most appreciated is that in the three looks the designers respected the aesthetics of each artist, without losing their essence as creators. It is here when that magical fusion between fashion and music takes place. It is an art, through and through!
