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Fotografía: Paula Caballero
If there is a designer who understood fashion as a spectacle, it was Gianni Versace. He did not limit himself to creating clothes; he built his own universe, where excess was synonymous with elegance and pop culture was mixed with classical mythology. Now, his essence re-emerges in Gianni Versace Retrospective , an exhibition never seen before in Spain organized by Fundación Unicaja that lands in Malaga with more than 500 original pieces to take a tour through the mind of the Italian genius.
The exhibition is housed in the historic building of the Episcopal Palace and, across nine thematic sections, invites us to explore its inspirations, from Classical Greece to the vibrant Miami Beach scene in the 90s. Between shiny fabrics, baroque prints – such as the iconic Barocco – and looks that defined the era of the Supermodels, this exhibition reminds us that the Versace legacy is more alive than ever.
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Fotografía: Paula Caballero
The designer who made fashion a spectacle
Gianni Versace didn’t just revolutionize fashion, he redefined it. In the 80s and 90s, his shows were events where supermodels walked like modern goddesses and the clothes screamed power and sensuality. His creations also dressed stars like Madonna, Prince and Elton John, cementing him as the designer of icons.
His ability to mix cultural references from different eras and geographies turned his designs into wearable pieces of art. From Greco-Roman classicism to punk aesthetics, Versace absorbed everything that inspired him and transformed it into something unique. His approach to fashion was instinctive and deeply visual: he was not afraid of colour, exuberant patterns or bold silhouettes. His brand became synonymous with daring luxury and boundless glamour.
The exhibition is unprecedented in Spain and captures that spirit, from his beginnings in Calabria, his arrival in Milan and his fascination with art and architecture to his last collection in 1997, before he was murdered. Through his most iconic looks, original sketches and previously unpublished photographs, Gianni Versace Retrospective immerses us in his creative process.
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Fotografía: Paula Caballero
The keys to understanding the soul of Gianni Versace
The exhibition is structured into nine spaces that capture some of the key aspects of Gianni Versace’s imagination, evident in all of his designs.
Inspiration from Greco-Roman mythology : Versace’s fascination with classical antiquity is reflected in his recurrent use of mythological iconography. The Medusa, which became the brand’s emblem, symbolised irresistible attraction and power. His collections incorporated motifs of Ionic columns, golden friezes and depictions of gods, fusing the opulence of imperial Rome with a modern vision of luxury.
Baroque splendour : No one like Versace at mixing gold, classical motifs and excess without losing sophistication. Inspired by art, the Christian religion and Italian architecture, his use of ornamentation and rich fabrics made him a master of maximalist luxury. Despite this, the exhibition also reveals his minimalist side towards the mid-90s. An interesting exercise in stylistic contrasts.
The magic of South Beach : Miami was his refuge and his muse. The Art Deco aesthetic, classic cars and multicultural energy of the city were reflected in his 90s collections. The light, colours and vitality of the city influenced the vibrant prints and marine motifs that characterised some of his most memorable collections.
Art and pop culture : Inspired by Warhol and the repetition of images, Gianni Versace created unforgettable prints. Versace understood before anyone else that fashion should dialogue with popular culture, and his collaborations with artists marked a turning point in the relationship between fashion and art.
Supermodels of the 90s : The Italian couturier elevated Cindy, Naomi, Claudia and Linda to the status of goddesses. He not only designed for them, but helped shape the modern concept of the “supermodel” by turning his shows into media extravaganzas. His 1991 show, where top models walked to George Michael’s Freedom , is an iconic fashion moment.
The power of provocation : She redefined rebellion with leather, studs and harnesses. Her reinterpretation of punk and fetish aesthetics proved that fashion could play with boundaries without losing its sophistication. The iconic Bondage collection of 1992 turned traditionally provocative elements into haute couture pieces that challenged established norms.
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Fotografía: Paula Caballero
Fashion, culture and myths of the 90’s
Beyond the catwalk, Gianni Versace’s impact on popular culture was immense. His vision was cinematic, his shows were carefully orchestrated productions, and his approach to fashion broke with many of the conventions of the time. He pioneered a strong visual identity for his brand, integrating architectural elements, instantly recognizable prints, and a use of color that defied the trends of minimalism.
Versace also understood the power of image and marketing in fashion. He was one of the first designers to forge ties with the entertainment industry, dressing artists and creating moments that transcended the catwalk. Lady Diana, Madonna, Cher, Elizabeth Hurley… they all became ambassadors of his bold and sophisticated aesthetic.
Versace also made his mark in cinema and theatre, designing costumes for operas and films. His passion for dramatization and theatricality was reflected not only in his fashion, but in the way he presented his work to the world.
The legacy of a visionary
More than 25 years after his death, Versace’s impact is still felt. His influence can be seen on catwalks, red carpets and even in urban culture. The brand he founded, now under the direction of his sister Donatella, continues to reinterpret his aesthetic, keeping the DNA of the house alive.
The 1990s fashion revival has brought back into the spotlight many of the elements that Versace popularised: the tight-fitting clothes, the baroque prints, the fusion of luxury and rebellion. Contemporary designers continue to find inspiration in his work, and his name remains synonymous with audacity and opulence.
This exhibition is not just a tribute, it is an invitation to relive the art of a designer who turned fashion into a statement of intent. To immerse oneself in his universe is to understand how fashion can be much more than clothing: it is identity, it is art and it is history.
The Gianni Versace Retrospective exhibition will be open to the public until the 30th June at the Unicaja Foundation Cultural Center in Malaga.
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Fotografía: Paula Caballero