Fely Campo. Spring-Summer 2023. Pic: Gus Geijo

Gratacós has shone with its own light at the Great Spanish Fashion Week by stepping on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid catwalk, held in mid-September. Evidently, this has ocurred so indirectly through designers who are regular users of our and who have once again trusted in our know-how to create the magnificent collections for the coming summer season. In this edition we want to especially mention the collaboration that our family business has made with the designer Fely Campo in an urban and sensual SS23 proposal, where luxury is appreciated in every detail. Not only the creator from Salamanca has relied on Gratacós fabrics to devise works of art in movement. Other designers have also supported us, such as Álvaro Calafat, Aurelia Gil, Duyos, JC Pajares, Isabel Sanchís, Malne, Maison Mesa, Odette, Pilar Dalbat and Redondo Brand. To follow, we expose some details of each collection and also more details of the exhibited looks.

Fely Campo

Fely Campo understands fashion as “a tireless search for beauty”. A language that moves perseveringly and in which the designer from Salamanca finds the balance between the silence and the noise of our current way of life. Under this inspiration, the creator transmits in ‘Nagore’ an idea of sensuality that aligns with the frenetic urban rhythm of cities like Madrid, Tokyo or New York. Surprising cities in full vibration with which Campo alludes to notions such as the maelstrom, vibration and drive, but also evokes other values such as stillness, subtlety and desire, through fabrics, patterns and silhouettes that want to participate in this urban bustle.

Thus, ‘Nagore’ is a luxury prêt-à-porter collection with which Fely Campo wants to represent the movement of our current rhythm of life. To do this, the designer, who has been dressing women from all over the world for more than 40 years, creates a contemporary image based on the concept of fluidity with ductile and versatile garments that reflect the feelings of today’s woman who is looking for Spanish author fashion aware of the need to consume sustainable fashion. Following her elegant and sober style, Fely Campo clings to an excellent pattern design with silhouettes that love subtlety, fabrics that become vulnerable to movement, exuberant floral prints and in a rich colour palette that ranges from neutrals: whites, light grays and black, to the radiant shades of fuchsia, orange and red with metallic nuances. The designer’s SS23 proposal is, above all, an explosion of feminine beauty in full motion.

Álvaro Calafat

Álvaro Calafat debuts on the Spanish catwalk with a new emotional collection where art and architecture merge with fashion. His third proposal is a heartfelt tribute to the death of one of the young designer’s best friends from Malaga. To talk about death, but also about its connection with life, love and sex, Calafat takes those present to the Khajuraho temple in India and does so through a free and creative interpretation of patterns, 3D structures, volumes and minute details. The silhouettes become daring, the fabrics combine rigidity with lightness and some surreal elements characteristic of her irreverent style do not go unnoticed.

Aurelia Gil

Aurelia Gil pays tribute to the trajectory of her brand, which turns 20 in 2023, through a timeless proposal that is a declaration of intent. Thus, ‘3 6 5’ represents a single collection a year made up of garments that fit together and work at any time of the day, in order to take another step towards sustainability.

The Canarian firm’s collection is made up of a large selection of the brand’s iconic garments that have been revised and updated through design and the use of new materials, such as Lycra yarn for crochet pieces. Gil is also committed to colour contrast and the mixture of fabrics. ‘3 6 5’ also has the added vision provided by Canarian artisans who have created the accessories that accompany the collection to reaffirm the values of tradition, craftsmanship and trade.

Duyos

With its own recognizable style, Duyos finds the inspiration for the next SS23 collection in Estonia through a sensory journey through its stunning nature, its crafts and tradition, and even its gastronomy. To translate experiences into fashion, the designer from Madrid allies himself with cotton jacquards, embroidery, organza, silk and tulle, which he uses to illustrate the floral explosion of early summer, but also other elements of native landscapes. Forest greens, luminous pinks, floral purples, evocative golds… which, subtly combined, represent the colourful energy of the country.
In the new Juan Duyos collection, his usual stylistic traits are not lacking either: overlapping garments, play on volumes and a mixture of motifs and textures that represent the playful but functional spirit based on handcrafted sewing.

Isabel Sanchis

Isabel Sanchis has celebrated 30 years in fashion while keeping its credentials intact. The objective of the Valencian designer, who borders on excellence in needlework, has always been to magnify the femininity of contemporary women by working with care on the chosen materials and fabrics, with exclusive embroideries, strategic volumes and very precise pattern making.

The next collection for summer 2023 represents a very personal collection based on signature elements, flowers and volume. To do this, Isabel Sanchís interprets flowers in different ways, maintaining elegant and extremely feminine designs. The proposal is eclectic, it represents the diversity in today’s society, and there are pieces that start from laser-cut neoprene, passing through lighter pieces of organza or chiffon, with other sewn garments with volumes made with recycled liquid satin and feathers. The colours used are striking, where red, pink and green predominate, giving strength to the pieces in this collection for a woman of 2023.

JCPAJARES

JCPAJARES reaffirms its commitment to fashion without seasonality with its ‘Annual 22 23’ proposal. It represents the third annual collection where summer, winter and timeless garments come together through innovative, conscious and environmentally friendly designs.

‘ANNUAL 22-23’ becomes the firm’s most special collection thanks to the collaboration with master craftsmen. A union that revives and provides new aesthetic codes to centuries-old techniques that are about to disappear. Ceramics, blown glass, hand embroidery, wicker, fabrics made on century-old looms navigate through a collection that strengthens the character, style and stamp of the young designer’s signature. Also noteworthy are the innovative and sophisticated patterns, the sexy silhouettes combined with other oversize, the strategic gathers and the unexpected openings that materialize thanks to wool cloths, organza and silk dots, crepes and neoprene, among others.

Malne

Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez, the design tandem that hides behind the firm, is inspired by the symbolism of birth to present a dazzling collection in every way that is set in a hostile environment such as the desert. In ‘Birth’, Malne reflects on a process of transformation in a positive light: the end of an era, and the birth of new ethical paradigms and ways of life, in which nature is part of the beauty of that necessary mutation.
To take it to the field of fashion, Malne uses bright fabrics that reflect the sun’s rays on the sand and shades characteristic of the desert landscape such as sand tones or night blues. The silhouettes are daring without neglecting the sophistication that characterizes the Spanish brand.

Maison Mesa

The controversial figure of Elagabalus, Roman emperor of the 3rd century AD, inspires the new summer collection of Meson Mesa. An irreverent emperor, who breaks with the gender schemes, with established sexuality and with the power systems, who grants women the political power destined exclusively for men. Under this influence, femininity, desire and power are the central elements around which all the garments revolve, a story about feminine power without ties.

On the catwalk, Juan Mesa’s firm that mixes tradition and avant-garde, exhibits geometric pieces that generate volumes and drapes according to their construction structure. Also evening dresses along with day pieces such as sweatshirts, shirts or jackets, all united under the influence of the sun god Helios, which reflect its light with nuances and sparkles, with its colour or with embroidery and applications. The colour palette is bright and ranges from white to yellow, passing through celestial blue and gold, dusty greens and nuanced pinks against their more intense versions.

If we talk about fabrics, the new collection mixes classic materials with more contemporary and innovative ones, cotton voile, organdy, satin, mikado, silk muslin and crepes with metal fabrics, shiny and lurex finishes in Jacquard or knit, going through metallic or translucent sequins and others that create camouflage military embroidery. Fabrics that reflect light with their shine also predominate, with lurex, with satin weaves, fringed fabrics that add shine and movement, even fabrics that change their colour after continuous exposure to sunlight. In short, Helios is present from the concept to its textile manifestation.

Pilar Dalbat

Pilar Torrecillas, creative director of the brand, is inspired by the heritage monuments of her native Granada to present a harmonious collection that pays homage to native architecture.

On the catwalk, Pilar Dalbat composes 32 looks that combine linen gazar fabrics with tulle, pleats and taffetas creating new silhouettes full of transparencies. Metallic fabrics, present in the designs of each collection, also appear again this time in different textures. Evening garments are characterized by brightness, transparencies and pleats. Dresses, waistcoats and skirts that, accompanied by methacrylate embroidery and glass beads, combine with silky and neoprene tops. Lime green in taffetas, crepes and fantasy gives way to versatile and flowing garments.

In this new collection, Pilar reaffirms once again a way of making slow fashion collections, defending author fashion made in Spain.

Odette

The prêt-à-porter brand Teté by Odette presents a proposal inspired by the self-confident woman who wants to shine and who invests in completely handmade pieces made in Spain. Thus, the ‘Selena’ collection gathers the profile of its consumers with tailor-made looks for them. On the catwalk, the designer Odette Álvarez changes some patterns, now advocating femininity in a more subtle and simple way. Therefore, the silhouettes become minimalist and the fabrics caress the body creating fluid and sensual shapes.

The fabrics rich in crystal details, fringes, beads, plates and sequins, and the colours that flow between gold and silver, resounding fuchsia, white and black are the axis of this proposal inspired by the lights and shadows of the landscape. mole.