Last week we had the pleasure of welcoming to Gratacós Núria Sardà, designer for the women ‘s lingerie company, Andres Sarda. Nuria has continued the legacy of her father by maintaining the essence of the brand, one that combines sophistication, elegance and femininity with soft linen garments, lightweight shapes and fascinating colours that embellish every woman’s body. Within the framework of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences Nuria explained to those present the keys to success, which also deal with the adaptation and evolution of the brand to the new demands of the market. She left them with some valuable advice.

We interviewed Núria Sardà to learn about some of her concerns. Remember that you can recover the conversation we had last week on the website of Designers Fashion Experiences.

Why have you participated in the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences?

I like to support new designers as much as possible and these conferences seem to me a good reason for doing so. In addition the organization has given me a lot of confidence.

Andres Sarda has extensive professional experience which unites generations of the same family. What can you explain from your own experience?

Each person lives their own experience and it is always good to know it firsthand. In this day-session I have focused on the opportunities and also on some obstacles that I have had in my career.

I gather that your passion for design is inherited …

Not really, I never thought about dedicating myself to the world of design. I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it .

“I never chose this profession, but life led me to choose it “

If you could go back in time, would you go back to design?

Yes, it’s a very stressful, fun and changeable job. It allows you to meet interesting people and tour the world. My daily routine is not strictly routine and allows me to express all my creativity. It is also true that it is a world where you are very exposed and your creations are judged severely by the company, the business world and lastly the customers. In this sense if everything goes well it is fantastic, but you also suffer because in each collection you put head, heart and soul. And there are many hours of work!

What obstacles are there in the fashion industry?

More than obstacles, I would call it circumstances. The offer, the distribution, the customers and their motivations. In this sector everything changes very quickly. We companies have to adapt to changes and advance according to to market movements.

“In every collection you put head, heart and soul”

Then adaptation is a tool that ensures survival. Which would you most emphasise?

From my point of view you need to have your personality in the creations, the quality and the reliability of the product and the company. This has to be coupled with adaptation and evolution of market needs, as I said previously.

What do you recommend to future designers?

That they should do what they do, make sure that their work is always original and that they contribute some innovation. Let them follow their instinct and never give up.

“We always have to look for excellence in everything we do”

Tips that might be a good leitmotiv…

Yes, we always have to look for excellence in everything we do.

Each season the fashion industry is determined to find the ideal substitute for black, the eternal classic. And it seems that this year a firm candidate has been found that convinces both critics and consumers alike: navy blue. As Christian Dior said back in the day: “Of all the colours, navy blue is the only one that can compete with black presenting the same virtues”. Not surprisingly, the second prêt-à-porter proposal by Maria Grazia Chiuri, current creative director recovered the colour of the French dressmaker in a transgressive way and in feminist key in a collection where jeans shared the centre stage with romantic tulle dresses creating uniform which reflect this attitude.

Beyond Dior, this wildcard tonality reigns in the majority of looks to be seen on autumn catwalks, in sober proposals that are at the same time, sophisticated and very appropriate for men and women. In fact, this color unifies and dilutes gender. Carolina Herrera, Hermes, DelPozo, Balenciaga … are some of the big names who have surrendered to the charm of tonality of the sea.

How to wear navy blue?

This autumn the monobloc combinations are in, where the blue is diversified: from the deep and evocative ultramarine to brighter tones like blue Klein. Textures take over from the prints and play a key role in the combinations, always accompanied by precious details such as metallic threads, sequins or inlaid rhinestones. Also to be seen will be floral Jacquards, polka dot prints and embossed graphic motifs that create fun optical games.

To be highlighted. velvet finds in blue a powerful ally for sensuality. Thus, the most glamorous garments succumb to the soft and sumptuous feel of this fabric that is linked to the night and mystery. Finally, navy does not completely untie from its main competitor: black colour. So it is no wonder that this season there are plenty of combinations of these two dark shades, showing that, despite what has always been said, blue and black match together.

Find the navy fabrics of the new season on our website or in the Gratacós shop

Who am I?

I define myself as a point of light trying to illuminate empty spaces through my clothes.

Where do I study?

I have just completed my degree in LCI Barcelona School of Design.

What have I specialized in?

I opted for general knowledge of the world of fashion as communication, design and pattern.

What is my style?

The best words to define it would be romantic and simple.

How will you recognize me?

When you see a tulle fabric in pale pink and gold … then you know it must be me.

What is my project?

The collection of my final project is called ‘Light in Space’ and talks about the mysteries of the children of lux. Those who have been sent to our planet to bring love, purity and wisdom to humanity. This inspiration is reflected in the colors and transparencies that remind us of the ethereal. That state of intermediate manifestation, between material and spiritual.

Where you can follow my tracks?

I am currently preparing for my next goal: to do a Master’s degree linked to fashion advertising.  I also want to travel and learn different ways of working within the sector.

Where do I expect you to see me?

I hope that you see my creation in today ‘s woman: a woman who is determined but dreamy, practical but romantic.

 
Remember my name because …

Each of my garments should transmit magic, light and colour in a world that lacks it.

Gratacós for me …

Is the only place where purity becomes tulle, the constellations become paillettes and dreams becomeo beautiful gauzes full of light and colour.

I’ll buy it from the shop …

Embroidery of pale pink rhinestones to turn it into a loose palazzo-style mono that will be part of my next project.

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

After New York and London it is the turn of Madrid in the month par excellence of the fashion catwalks. The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid from today until September 19th becomes the creative universe for Spanish design in the 66th edition which will be held in Hall 14.1 of the IFEMA trade-fair in Madrid, as well as elsewhere in the Spanish capital.

In this edition, the fashion-parade is bringing together the creations of 47 designers and brands presenting innovations for next season, Spring-Summer 2018. New features are incorporated into the programme with offerings from the celebrated company Palomo Spain and from García Madrid, Isabel Núñez, Maria Clé, Manemané, Pepa Salazar, Chromosome Residence and Juan Carlos Pajares. The latter, who is a keen advocate of our fabrics, usually casts a glance in our direction through the designs he presents on the catwalk. We will see how he delights us this time…

Among the usual designers who each year are part of the calendar, Gratacos also wants to make special mention of Teresa Helbig, who will present the collection ‘ Rien ne va plus’ with three key fabrics: python, chainmail and eel-skin in a design inspired by the glamour of a luxury casino. For their part, The 2nd Skin Co will present a collection that gathers together and symbolizes the tenth anniversary of the brand through the fabrics, patterns, silhouettes and colours of the renowned Madrid company that extols the eternal femininity of women. Also featuring on the cat-walk will be Menchén Tomás. The company of designer Olga Menchén made its debut last year on the Madrid cat-walk and will be repeating the experience with its latest feminine collection.

Apart from the calendar of fashion-parades, from the MFBWMadrid we would like to highlight the featuring of OFF, where other aspects of fashion will be on show. Some have already taken place, such as the presentations by Duarte Madrid, Miguel Marinero, Pilar Dalbat and Moisés Nieto, whose year-by-year confidence in us we much appreciate. On 16th September parade by JCPajares will be held and on 21st September the presentations by Euphemio Fernández and The Stoat.

Lastly, one date we like to keep a close eye on is the fashion-parade of emerging talent held by Samsung EGO, which is a key element for show-casing the talent of new generations. As you well know, we are keen to support emerging designers. We won’t miss a single detail!

Gratacós “begins the school year” hosting in our shop in Barcelona the second edition of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences, some lectures given by designers who succeed in the fashion industry with their respective businesses. The goal is to share experiences, reflect situations, explain anecdotes to young fashion and design students to create synergies together. Some collect the testimony and others expose new ideas or situations in a kind of “face to face” where the barriers between experts and beginners are broken.

According to David Boix, organizer of the initiative, the second edition is optimistic: “We are very happy to be able to celebrate a new edition after the success of the first edition and we look forward to it with great joy and positivism.” Boix promises some changes in regards to the first edition. “We will delve into some issues such as brand identity, the fashion business or the threats and real fears that affect the sector,” he said. A consistent strategy to share more practical and real issues with the current situation, encouraging feedback from the students and increase participation in social networks.

The conference Designers Fashion Experiences will be supported by four designers spread over the four months of the last quarter of 2017. In this edition, Alejandro Resta, Núria Sarda, Francis Montesinos and Celia Vela will participate.

An ideal scenario

Gratacós is one of the sponsors of the presentations, but this year they have also divested part of their store to the development of the conference becoming an informative space where networking is promoted. “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles,” says David Boix. And he adds: “It is a good reference for the fashion of Barcelona”. The conference will be held on the top floor of the store that will be equipped for the occasion, and facilitating also the lecturers and students with the possibility to show the fabrics of the season for the development of each talk.

David Boix: “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles”.

The first meeting will be next Wednesday, September 13 with the Valencian designer Alejandro Resta. The get together is at 18:30. Get your invitation here. We hope to see you there!

Striped prints are the most widespread prints to be seen on the catwalk and one of the easiest to combine when it comes to trends seen on the street. Regardless of the seasons, stripes are constantly renewing themselves, changing their width, color or presence in the garments. We analyze how they are worn this summer with examples of our seasonal fabrics:

1. Navy

The black, blue or red thin stripes express like no other the marine essence and the Mediterranean character. They have been immortalized artistic icons like Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Pablo Picasso, James Dean or Coco Chanel adding that distinguished French chic touch. This type of stripes, linked to nautical aesthetics, is an immortal and imperishable print that knows no trends. From Gratacós we propose a suggesting Jacquard with navy stripes.

2. Glam

In this type of prints, the stripes are printed on more glamorous fabrics that have a slight texture such as sequins, lurex … Fabrics that shine with their own light and add a highly sophisticated effect on the garment. This type of sophisticated stripes are very appropriate for nightwear. A style tip: If you want this glam stripe fabric to stand out, combine it with plain fabrics in neutral colors.  Gratacós proposes this beautiful blue and white striped sequin fabric

3. Artistic

This season, colour has revolutionized this geometric print making it on occasions appear less sober and straight. Thus, the stripes vary in thicknesses, directions and the different shades intermix in the same garment creating daring pictorial pictures. In this case, the chromatic chaos becomes beautiful. From Gratacós we also can offer multicolored striped fabrics with an artistic vocation. What do you think of our printed silk mousseline?

Hazelnut, beige, tan, brown, makeup, nude …  Neutral colours are in fashion this summer 2017. In fact, regardless of the trend this year, the cream tones are classic and modern at the same time. Timeless colors that soften the face and skin, and do not necessarily have to fall in the monotony if you know how to combine with small details in other pigmentations to make an evocative contrast.

This season neutral tones can be seen on the catwalk shows of the luxury brands with a clear tendency to single – colour blocks with some minor variations in tone.  What has changed are those embossed fabrics, the focus on pleated loose clothing and volumes around the shoulder area and attenuated at the bottom. For example, DelPozo exhibits a skirt and jacket outfit in butter colour with wide sleeves; Bottega Veneta goes for fluid dresses insinuating the body without marking it and finally, Chloé gives prominence to floral embossed fabric dyed in dusty pink.

How to combine neutral tones?

Neutral tones are fresh, bring warmth and are present in the most relaxed looks of summer. They soften out and are discreet enough to make the details of the garments stand out.  In this sense, they easily pass fade into the background with an unexpected colour touch. This season, the neutrals combine with stylish burnt orange, chocolate-brown appeasers, the ivory tones – the fake whites – and the pink tones. It is not a season of excessive contrasts, rather of complementary shades that are simple and elegant without effort. Blessed discretion!

Embossed fabrics

As we noted above, the colour gives prominence to the fabric as you can see in the trend “Flor de Cala Blanca” on our website. Textures, outlines, floral motifs … give this counterpoint to details with fabrics that are pleasing to the eye and touch.  Also to be seen are blends such as chiffon and silk combined with crochet and the most original jacquards. Finally, matt textures prevail.  Better without shine.

If you want to discover the universe of neutral tones and textures, we invite you to discover the seasonal fabrics in our shop where we can advise you better.

There are calls that excite us because of the enormous expectations they generate and the success of participation that certainly endorse their popularity edition after edition.  One of them is the Notebook of Trends  by Nelly Rodi.  This is an initiative that we have been promoting since last year to make known the main trends that will be of influence in the next year.  It is a guiding compass of the colours, fabrics and prints that people will be talking about.  This informative talk for design students will be led as always by Úrsula Uria, head of the prestigious research agency on trends in Spain.

This edition unveiled the four trends that will influence the summer of 2018, taking into account some of the global social, economic and cultural trends that influence fashion consumption.  These factors are:

1. In times of crisis there is a resurgence of nationalist values.  In this sense local consumption is prioritized and values such as origins and roots are given importance.  This is especially evident in areas as diverse as music or cooking.

2. It is a time of rebellion.  A consequence of the first macro trend. Tough times cause canons to be broken and new leaders, models and inspirations sought.  In fashion there is a commitment to diversity of mannequins.

3. Consumers are rational.  They know what they want, when they want it and how they want it and they apply intelligence above emotion. Purchases are no longer driven by impulse but by real needs. For example: healthy food with eco ingredients.

4. Free time is the new luxury.  It is what is most appreciated in a society so busy with duties and obligations.  Anyone who has time to travel, switch off and isolate themself … cherishes a real treasure.

Thus, taking into account these premises, the next Spring-Summer 2018 season will influence four trends in fashion: Booster, Horizon, Puzzle and Neodalisque.

1. Booster

A colourful trend based on a mix of technical and sports and inspired by the countries of South -East Asia, especially South Korea.

References:  Pop music, smileys, digital language, geeky references, digital consumers, musical gadgets, futuristic inspiration from the 60s and 70s by Andrès Courreges and Paco Rabanne patterns.

Silhouettes: Priority given to collage, patchwork and patterning technique. The garments are very technical with ergonomic designs and volume is the name of the game.

Prints:  Metallized dyes and surreal motifs.

Colours:  Most are racy – pop – optimist shades – and the range of pastels is like mints.  Explosive combinations like green with pink or violet with orange are all the rage.

Fabrics:  Wearing of patent leather and fabrics with sparkles.

2. HORIZON

A minimalist trend based on yoga, meditation and slow lifestyle.  Inspiration is to be found on surprise beaches facing the ocean.

References:  A cooler interpretation of the sailor style and nautical universe, Loewe, Yohji Yamamoto, the Nordic countries, the beaches of Galicia, stones, handicrafts, fossils, ropes and hues of the sea on a cloudy day.

Silhouettes:  Deconstructed, minimal air patterns, loose and light clothing.

Colours:  Cold palette as blues, muted greens, grays and off – white.

Prints: Scarcely any prints. Prioritizing smooth garments.

Fabrics: Artisanal and light fabrics. Rough details.

3. PUZZLE

A circus-influenced trend based on show and excess. More is more.

References:  theatre, performing arts, surrealism, mix & match, the locker room of Circ du Soleil, the world of majorettes and most glamorous cowboy style.  The trendsetters are Gucci, Prada and Roberto Cavalli.

Silhouettes:  Mix of volumes, shoulders are the new stars, ruffles and styles taken to the extreme.

Colours:  Chromatic chaos.  Bright tonalities, fluorescent and contrasted with each other.  Examples: orange with turquoise, pink with yellow…

Prints:  stripes, zig-zag … The graphic nmotifs abound.

Fabrics:  patent leathers

4. NEODALISQUE

An oriental trend with ethnic roots based on the silk route. A step beyond the boho-chic style.

References:  Persian culture, oriental minimalism, ceramics, details on cintería, Etro prints, trimmings, fruit elements, mosaics, antique vases, carpets and exoticism of Sri Lanka or India.

Silhouettes: very long garments in skirts, dresses and coats, kafkans, kimonos, harem pants.

Colours:  Old gold

Prints:  Prints of exotic flowers and cashmere.

Fabrics: Artisanal

This year celebrates its 70th anniversary and to commemorate this special date, the French maison has created an unprecedented exhibition to publicize the legacy of Christian Dior, as well as his exceptional talent with the needle.

Christian Dior, Couturier du Rêve

Under the name Christian Dior, a Couture Dream, the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris is hosting the major retrospective of Dior, the largest exhibition of the firm so far.  The commemorative exhibition, which invites visitors to discover the universe of its founder, in addition to the creations of the six subsequent designers of the firm who succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and, recently, Maria Grazia Chiuri.  Emotions, life-stories, affinities, inspirations, creations and affiliations link this exquisite sample that gathers together more than 300 haute couture dresses designed from 1947 to the present.  A special feature is one of the rooms, inspired by the Hall of Mirrors of the Palace of Versailles, which shows dresses worn by royalty, such as Grace of Monaco or Princess Diana, and other celebrities such as actresses Charlize Theron or Jennifer Lawrence, who are ambassadors for the company.

In parallel, and for the first time in such detail, there are workshop fabrics and fashion photographs, as well as several hundred documents: illustrations, sketches, images of reports, letters … and fashion accessories such as hats, jewelry, bags and shoes, among others.

Christian Dior was also an art lover and passionate about museums;  more than seventy years of creations are also represented with paintings, furniture and artistic objects.  These works highlight and prolong the look of Christian Dior by exploring the links he was able to to knit between sewing and all forms of art that define the imprint of the Maison.  The two commissioners of the exhibition, Florence Müller and Olivier Gabet, reflected this dialogue via a chronological and thematic route that unites and occupies, for the first time together, the areas dedicated to fashion with those of the nave of the museum, thus adding 3,000 square meters of exhibition.

The exhibition opened on 5 July during Paris Haute Couture Week and will be open to the public until January 7, 2018.

Dior et Granville

In parallel with this great retrospective, the Christian Dior Granville Museum located in Normandy is participating in the celebration of the 70th anniversary with an unprecedented perspective on the local origins of the Dior style, born in this French city in 1905. The family home has in fact been fundamental with regard to the sources of inspiration of the designer and the exhibition pays homage precisely to that period of his life which is not so well known and which marked all his future creations.  Among photos of the time and of his family, some of his most iconic costumes are on show, which cover both the history of the French  maison and his importance for his country.

Christian Dior and Granville: the source of the legend is open to the public until the 24th September.