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Martes 04 julio 2017

Flamante rojo

The hottest month of the year coincides with the colour that makes us blush: flame red with orange hues that reminds us of flames in motion. This lively and passionate tonality ignites summer looks with its fascinating power of attraction.

This season red is being worn in monochrome blocks maximizing its visibility: carmine, garnet, red currant, scarlet or coral shades in matt or glossy fabrics.  The key is the same colouration.  On the catwalk, for example, companies such as Valentino  have not hesitated in going for flame reds in dresses with subtle prints,  Dior  too with their transparent tulle skirts and  Kenzo or Balmain with low - cut garments. As well  Oscar de la Renta with ruffles on dresses,  Salvatore Ferragamo with  original two - piece suits or Isabel Marant, who  presents this vibrant color with metallic sparkles in an throw-back to to outfits inspired by the eighties.

How to combine red?

Red is a flattering color that works by itself, although sometimes the combination with other tones makes it acquire new nuances. Beyond the classic blends with white or navy blue so characteristic of the looks of Mediterranean - style red is allied with other less frequent colours to take us out of our comfort zone.  For example, Emilio Pucci  goes for mixing it with turquoise, where red is relegated to the background. Valentino and Gucci intermingle it with pink in one of the most striking chromatic alliances.  Meanwhile Balmain dares to align red with purple in a glaringly strident combination.

Burning fabrics

The reddish hues constitute one of our inspirations of the season, as you can see in the trend “Hawaiian Flower” on our website. In it you can find an assortment of fabrics with totally different textures, all with the same common denominator: red. Some flirt with floral lace, silk satin sheen, embossed mikados or jacquards with geometric motifs. Diversity is the taste.

At all events, we invite you to discover all the fabrics impregnated with the most ardent Pantone colour in our shop where we will be able to offer you further advice.







Jueves 22 junio 2017

080 Barcelona Fashion has now run 20 editions

080 Barcelona Fashion is celebrating.  The catwalk, which will take place from 26 to 30 June in the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, is celebrating its 20th edition with a large fashion programme that goes beyond parades to include more parallel activities, business conferences, evening parties, special presentations and a guest of honour who will become one of the main advertisements for the Catalan catwalk.

The Missoni saga in Barcelona

In this edition, Margherita Missoni, third generation of the prestigious Italian firm, will collect the Fashion Tribute which the parade is devoting to his mother,  Angela Missoni,  current co – owner and creative director of the brand.  In turn, Margherita will offer a talk about the Missoni saga and its influence on fashion entitled “The Missoni Family.  Born into fashion “.  This talk will be shared with Vogue ex-director Lisa Lowatt-Smith.


The debut of new talents

In the field of design there are some absentees, such as Sita Murt, Menchén Tomàs or TCN, but for the first time on the catwalk there are emerging talents like Mietis, Jnorig, AMT or  the designers Colmillo de Morsa  who we interviewed a few months ago.  For the first time in Catalonia the designer  Maria Roch  will be in the parade with her feminine creations and the designers  Elena Estaun  and Gema Sach.  They will join the catwalk cast along with the regular brands and designers from which we highlight  Brain & Beast – whose daring and rebellious parade is always a must -. As is usual in summer editions, swimwear also takes centre stage on the catwalk with companies such as  Red Point, Como un Pez en el Agua or  Guillermina Baeza.

In total there are 37 designers and companies that will parade on the catwalk, with a clear modernist accent.


Special activities

To commemorate the 20 editions held over the decade,  080 Barcelona Fashion  has scheduled a special calendar among which is the presentation of the capsule collection by the Catalan company  Macson, which  is celebrating 75 years in the business.  It sees the debut as designer of the choreographer and dancer  Rafael Amargo,  the concert by Andrea Motis  which is part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Nights and a special catwalk party entitled  Anniversary party by Zalando.  On the solidarity front the Catalan parade is also promoting a philanthropic action with the Casal dels Infants, by marketing a commemorative T – shirt designed from a figurine by the prestigious New York illustrator  Rubén Toledo.

Finally, the parallel activities include the holding of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, which will be transformed into a fair and will be held on 28 and 29 June;  it further includes the 080 Investor Day,  the International Investment Forum of the Fashion Industry  and the annual meeting of the textile-fashion sector,  Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

Access all the programming of 080 Barcelona Fashion here.

In connection with young designers and the industry ‘s future we want to highlight the new edition of  Barcelona Fashion Summit  as a meeting of professionals in the fashion business.  This time the conference will focus on the theme ‘Next Generation: the future of the fashion business’ with topics for analysis such as young business leaders, the new consumers, generational changes or new forms of management and business in the fashion industry.




Martes 20 junio 2017

The pop up of the Catalan design of La Roca Village

Coinciding with the start of summer, La Roca Village houses one of the most impressive areas as an international window for local talent: the Barcelona Designers Collective.  This successful platform celebrates its fourth edition for discovery, promotion and support of the talent, creativity, innovation and sustainability of Catalan design firms.  It is a unique showcase that presents the talent of Catalan designers to the world and helps to position the city of Barcelona as a powerful reference in fashion, among other creative disciplines.

In this edition, inaugurated last Thursday, June 15, 70 designers and emerging talent selected by the FAD contribute 300 products of fashion, graphic design, product design, illustration, crafts, contemporary jewelry and art, as a new discipline that it is included in this so original temporary boutique . There is a selection of artworks by Safia art Contemporani with great names of pop art Andy Warhol, Basquiat, Haring or Lichtenstein among other conceptual artists.  The art will unite with design by such established companies as Ana Tichy, Arrels BCN, CarlotaOms, Clara Niubó, Walrus Fang, Costalamel, Edgar Carrascal, IKA, Maria Roch, Miquel Suay, Mireia Playà, Pau Esteve, Rita Row, Ssic & Paul , Victor Von Schwarz, All Sisters, Berta Riera, Carla Garcia Durlan or Anna Grimal, among other participants who will be presenting their work at La Roca Village this summer.

Once again the design of the boutique will be a talking point.  This edition features a light installation by the internationally renowned designer and ceramicist Xavier Mañosa from the studio Apparatu , which will undoubtedly draw the attention of visitors.  Mañosa’s creation consists of 70 lamps representing the 70 talents participating in the Barcelona Designers Collective.

Another of the novelties of this year will be the development of design workshops aimed at a family audience, run by some of the talents participating in this or past editions.

Two exceptional guests at the opening

Apart from being a meeting point for emerging talent,  Barcelona Designers Collective is also supported by the great and good.  On this occasion two special guests will be present at the opening: the work of Javier Mariscal  will also feature in the pop up together with the product of the designers and selected artists. Furthermore, during the summer months the Village will host a retrospective selection of his most recognized creations.  In addition Roland Mouret, who celebrates 20 years as a designer, participated as special guest at the official presentation of the fourth edition of the project with an interesting talk entitled “In conversation with” where the celebrated designer, along with other experts, shared his professional experience and knowledge to inspire and guide the participants of this summer 2017 edition.

The pop up store  Barcelona Designers Collective  will be open until 30 August.  A visit to discover and identify a significant sample of Catalan talent is strongly recommended..





Martes 13 junio 2017

Alone with … Xevi Fernández


Xevi Fernández is taking off with his own brand-name. From his atelier in Barcelona he works by order with a team of suppliers and soon he will be beginning international marketing.  This September he will present in Madrid his third collection.  It is an offering which presents fabrics, textures and colours that do not abandon the essence of the Empordà designer who has already won prizes in reputed competitions in Berlin and Bilbao.  Let’s get to know more closely this disciple of Josep Font …

Your passion for fashion began in a haberdashery shop…

Yes, as a child I spent every afternoon in the family haberdashery in Bisbal de l’Empordà and I was surrounded by the women of the town who came to sew.  I watched carefully what they did and I started to become interested in this world.  Later I studied a style course and in ICM (Catalan Fashion Institute) I made patterns, which was what interested me the most. That was in 2010.

Little by little you found your place…

I went in for in several competitions and won them and this was an incentive to start my career as a designer.  In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands, but now I want to focus on creating my own clothes.

“In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands”

What is your identity?

I have a hard time defining it because I do a little of what I like and the clientèle I cover is quite broad.  Men, women, young or more mature.

Do not you think that diversification can be a handicap?

I do not see it that way myself although I have to confess that if it were only for me I would focus on men’s fashion.

So why do not you specialize?

As far as customers are concerned, women are the ones that people most design for, although this is changing and it seems to be balancing out.  Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women.  That is why I do not discount focusing on men’s fashion in the future

“Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women”

When did you start doing catwalk shows?

Last year with SAMSUNG EGO at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid.  Now next September I will be presenting the third collection of young designers on the catwalk.

Why did you decide to go for Madrid?

Because right now it’s the only platform out there that gives visibility to emerging talent. The experience has always been very positive and I want to continue in the city.  Yes, it is true that I appeared in a Modafad long ago in Barcelona, but it was not a competition and when I wanted to participate, the platform was already being dismantled.

What has it brought you?

A great deal!  If I’m where I am, it’s thanks to EGO.  They deal very well with the press and contacts … For me it has been a very good platform to get my work known.

“EGO is a very good platform to get my work known”

Can you give us more details about the new collection?

What I offer is much more commercial than experimental.  I’ll leave aside some materials such as latex which on the catwalk are very flashy, but then don’t sell.  In this new collection there will be a couple of pieces of latex so as not to break with the style, but the fabrics and colours that I will use will not be so acidic, but more neutral.

You’re going to tone down…

Without leaving aside the identity.  First you seek to get attention and afterwards what you do is commercialized.

How do you work day to day in order to produce the orders?

I work in my atelier in Barcelona with a team that is not fixed because we work to order and I am collaborating with several professionals to produce each garment.  I am in my studio alone and I organize things according to demand.

“First you seek to attract attention and afterwards what you do is commercialize”

You do not have marketing points, I suppose you live by word of mouth …

Now I will be starting an online marketing strategy with designer platforms and in parallel I will be looking for specific sales points.

We’re interviewing you when things are taking off…

Exactly.

What is your link with Gratacós and why are they worthy of your trust?

I discovered the shop when I was studying and always came looking for some fabric for my first collections.  Then for me it was a little inaccessible given the prices compared to other businesses, although the quality of fabrics they have here is very high.  When I was accepted to parade in Madrid I went straight to the shop and I took your advice when looking for the fabrics that had in mind.

“When I was accepted to catwalk in Madrid I went straight to Gratacós and took your advice”

Apart from the premium quality the proximity..

Totally and it is very easy to talk to you.  The place is very cozy and aesthetic ally it is fantastic.  I’m very happy!

What challenges do you give yourself after September?

We’ll see, I am now focused on making the collection that will be called ‘The Bird Boy’ and soon I will be entering into collaboration with a footwear brand.

The Gratacós questionnaire …

Your essential garment … A coat

A fetish fabric …  The silk georgette

A color that you will never abandon … Yellow

The designer you admire … Josep Font

Unerring style rule … Use plenty of black

Your favorite area of Barcelona … Walking through the Eixample

A tip for designers starting … Consistency

Your ‘leitmotif’ … Follow your instincts

Jueves 08 junio 2017

Satin

This season, satin is everywhere and is becoming suitable for all occasions, in addition to evening wear night and festive events.  This fabric that is characterized by elegant exterior sheen and good consistency has appeared in the Spring-Summer 2017 collections in multiple versions.  Let’s review the essential garments so you can be inspired…


1. ‘Sleep Dress’

Draper dresses continue in popularity and large firms are reluctant to abandon this garment that in a few years has made the jump from bed to the street.  Thus this season they are no longer worn tight to the body and collections are going for more vaporous and loose models that enhance movement.  The most favourable cut for this type of dress is below the knee with a length that varies until reaching the ankle with asymmetric cuts or minimalist style. These satin garments are fully versatile and support both heels and sneakers.  On the catwalk they have appeared in satin lingerie brands like Narciso Rodríguez, Rag & Bone, Balmain, Prabal Gurung, among others in neutral or metallic shades.


2. Blouse

The satin blouse is a classic of the wardrobe.  The right clothing and fabric never go out of style and this one stands out for its extreme versatility, always providing an extra sophistication: it goes equally well at work, for a meeting or social event or for an informal encounter when combined with jeans.  This season it is being worn with V-neck, buttons or with puffed sleeves.


3. Evening Dressing-Gown

It is the trend of the moment and a continuation of fashion lingerie imposed on the latest collections. This garment associated with luxury, eccentricity and dandyism is expanding horizons to conquer new audiences in more urban environments, positioning itself as a perfect alternative for casual wear.  In summer prints conquer this satin garment : graphic motifs, stripes and oriental style flowers are the fashion.  The evening dressing-gown works very well with smooth garments such as tops with straps or crop tops combined with shorts or slacks.  On the catwalk, brands like Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Emporio Armani and Alberta Ferretti have opted for this centrepiece of the season.

In our shop we offer you satin fabrics of different shades and prints which allow you to create your favourite garment to your liking.  Visit us and we will advise you!






Martes 23 mayo 2017

Yellow fever

In the world of theatre they say that it brings bad luck, but it is not the case with fashion. And less so in summer. Superstitions aside, this season is tinted in vibrant yellow in a wide range of hues and shades. Vanilla, butter, lemon, mustard, sulfur, corn, honey, banana, pineapple … be guided through the colours of these foods to know what kind of yellow to choose to fill your summer wardrobe optimistically – and if you can’t decide, then opt for all of them because this season this vibrant colour is being worn in uni-colour blocks.

Note the most daring looks by  Chanel, Max Mara, Chloé, Valentino and Emilio Pucci who go for this flattering color with in pastel shades, in total brilliance, neon finishes, satin effects or even embroidered translucent with creations that serve for both day and evening.




How to combine yellow?

It is well known that yellow is not a colour easy to wear and sometimes it is to be found only in the wardrobes of the most daring. Let’s break down the frontiers ! There are many ways to combine yellow, softening its effect to make it so less strident. How ?With the full range of neutrals like beige, taupe or ivory, the metallic shades or the black and white duo being relegated to small details or specific accessories that enliven the look.

Fabrics with lemonade effect

One of our inspirations this season is the yellow such as that seen in the trend “sunflower” we showed you on the web. In it you will find all kinds of fabrics ranging from more ethereal and smooth silks and outfits to the very brightest with encrusted sequins. Between these two extremes there is a wealth of prints, such as floral Jacquards, exotic mikados with oriental touches and fabrics with metallic shades. Light up the street with this daring colour!

We invite you to discover the whole new collection on the web or in our store!




Martes 16 mayo 2017

Alone with … Manuel Bolaño

Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand.  ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic.  Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …

What is your plan B?

My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.

What do you mean by basic?

When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.

“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”

Was this at the request of your clientele ?  Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …

Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand.  We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black.  At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.

The concept of timelessness in your brand …

Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments?  It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always.  The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour.  At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.

Tell me more details about the collection …

The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams.  The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments.  The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier.  That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.

“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”

And how do you operate things ?

The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier.  I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.

It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …

Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.

By the way, you have changed the location of the studio.  You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …

Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home.  I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.

“I want the client to feel at home”

What is your link with Gratacós?

I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.

Do you remember how you got to know us?

Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona.  I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !”  At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop.  It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.

About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”

I did not know we were so impressive …

At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind.  Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.

Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?

Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.

What challenges do you face for this year?

For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough.  Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…

The Gratacós questionnaire …

Your essential garment … A shirt

A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric

A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red

The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.

An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks

Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri

Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play

Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid

Jueves 11 mayo 2017

Pop up Modern Tailoring arrives in Gratacós

We continue to pop up with more imaginative stores sharing good news: our store next week will host the unconventional pop up Sastreria Moderna. This is an initiative inspired by the slow fashion movement that will take place from 18 to 20 May in our store, where customers can interact directly with the designer and squeeze the most out of this relationship. The journalist Laia Beltran, organizer of the event, relies on Gratacós to carry out this ephemeral event. “Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that. In addition, it is a well located working area, very attractive, with a shop-window that faces the street and an enthusiastic team. What more could you ask for?”.

“Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that”

Sastreria Moderna advocates a sustainable, personalized and “low-simmering”fashion that is more rewarding, both for the maker and for the wearer. That is the value of the initiative where the clients can try out the clothing of the invited designer and order it on the spot. “Here the client does not try on a garment, pay for it and take it home inside a bag. Here she tries it on and if she likes it she orders it, with the option of making changes in colour and fabrics. That’s why we call it a non-conventional pop up, “says Laia Beltran. Thus, in a couple of weeks, the garment is made and delivered to the customer with the idea of promoting production on demand and avoiding stocks. In this third edition the possibilities of choosing fabric multiply, given that Gratacós will offer a wide range of possibilities to clients.


The designer EvaHumo as special guest

In the third edition, Sastreria Moderna EvaHumo  invited the designer to present in public ‘Jazz’, her new collection. It is an elegant and sensual creation inspired by the twenties, by a woman who dances and surrenders herself without thinking that everything can end at any time. Dresses, blouses and light skirts in powdered colours and with an exciting set of textures. The designer’s more radical side will also be revealed with a selection of unique garments intentionally made for the event where intense colours, prints and handmade finishes predominate. In the presentation of the collection, clients will be able to try on the garments and order them with the fabric suggested by the designer or with any other fabric from Gratacós where we will take the opportunity to advise on the most appropriate choice.


Other Companies Confirmed

Sastreria Moderna will again have the support of several design brands that will put on sale their latest collections. These complements and accessories companies share the same spirit of the initiative in that they go for good design and local production. Thus this edition will feature the minimalist jewelry of Sew a Song and the most exuberant creations of Becker & Co, inspired by the most varied flora and fauna. The leather accessories of Encuire by the designer Eva Estévez will also be present, as will duffle bags - the classic cylindrical bags with sailcloth handles by Equipaje BCN. Finally,in footwear Dorotea’s marvellous sandals are a must. They are made by hand in Menorca with quality leather.

“Here the client tries on tests a garment and, if she likes it, she orders it, with the option of making modifications in colour and fabrics”

Apart from design, Sastrería Moderna also offers the possibility of having a good time among friends. “It’s a good excuse to meet up with old friends, with clients or meet new people. We like to chat with them, invite them to a beer and explain the work of each designer, ” Laia declares.

Sastreria Moderna has the support of Gratacós, the architectural studio and showroom Materia Terricola and Moritz beers.

We ‘re waiting for you!





Martes 25 abril 2017

(Español) Barcelona capital internacional de la moda nupcial

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

Jueves 20 abril 2017

(Español) La moda escrita. Recomendaciones para Sant Jordi 2017

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.