Xevi Fernández is taking off with his own brand-name. From his atelier in Barcelona he works by order with a team of suppliers and soon he will be beginning international marketing. This September he will present in Madrid his third collection. It is an offering which presents fabrics, textures and colours that do not abandon the essence of the Empordà designer who has already won prizes in reputed competitions in Berlin and Bilbao. Let’s get to know more closely this disciple of Josep Font …
Your passion for fashion began in a haberdashery shop…
Yes, as a child I spent every afternoon in the family haberdashery in Bisbal de l’Empordà and I was surrounded by the women of the town who came to sew. I watched carefully what they did and I started to become interested in this world. Later I studied a style course and in ICM (Catalan Fashion Institute) I made patterns, which was what interested me the most. That was in 2010.
Little by little you found your place…
I went in for in several competitions and won them and this was an incentive to start my career as a designer. In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands, but now I want to focus on creating my own clothes.
“In the future I do not rule out collaborating with other brands”
What is your identity?
I have a hard time defining it because I do a little of what I like and the clientèle I cover is quite broad. Men, women, young or more mature.
Do not you think that diversification can be a handicap?
I do not see it that way myself although I have to confess that if it were only for me I would focus on men’s fashion.
So why do not you specialize?
As far as customers are concerned, women are the ones that people most design for, although this is changing and it seems to be balancing out. Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women. That is why I do not discount focusing on men’s fashion in the future
“Men are more and more demanding and want to have the same possibilities as women”
When did you start doing catwalk shows?
Last year with SAMSUNG EGO at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Now next September I will be presenting the third collection of young designers on the catwalk.
Why did you decide to go for Madrid?
Because right now it’s the only platform out there that gives visibility to emerging talent. The experience has always been very positive and I want to continue in the city. Yes, it is true that I appeared in a Modafad long ago in Barcelona, but it was not a competition and when I wanted to participate, the platform was already being dismantled.
What has it brought you?
A great deal! If I’m where I am, it’s thanks to EGO. They deal very well with the press and contacts … For me it has been a very good platform to get my work known.
“EGO is a very good platform to get my work known”
Can you give us more details about the new collection?
What I offer is much more commercial than experimental. I’ll leave aside some materials such as latex which on the catwalk are very flashy, but then don’t sell. In this new collection there will be a couple of pieces of latex so as not to break with the style, but the fabrics and colours that I will use will not be so acidic, but more neutral.
You’re going to tone down…
Without leaving aside the identity. First you seek to get attention and afterwards what you do is commercialized.
How do you work day to day in order to produce the orders?
I work in my atelier in Barcelona with a team that is not fixed because we work to order and I am collaborating with several professionals to produce each garment. I am in my studio alone and I organize things according to demand.
“First you seek to attract attention and afterwards what you do is commercialize”
You do not have marketing points, I suppose you live by word of mouth …
Now I will be starting an online marketing strategy with designer platforms and in parallel I will be looking for specific sales points.
We’re interviewing you when things are taking off…
Exactly.
What is your link with Gratacós and why are they worthy of your trust?
I discovered the shop when I was studying and always came looking for some fabric for my first collections. Then for me it was a little inaccessible given the prices compared to other businesses, although the quality of fabrics they have here is very high. When I was accepted to parade in Madrid I went straight to the shop and I took your advice when looking for the fabrics that had in mind.
“When I was accepted to catwalk in Madrid I went straight to Gratacós and took your advice”
Apart from the premium quality the proximity..
Totally and it is very easy to talk to you. The place is very cozy and aesthetic ally it is fantastic. I’m very happy!
What challenges do you give yourself after September?
We’ll see, I am now focused on making the collection that will be called ‘The Bird Boy’ and soon I will be entering into collaboration with a footwear brand.
The Gratacós questionnaire …
Your essential garment … A coat
A fetish fabric … The silk georgette
A color that you will never abandon … Yellow
The designer you admire … Josep Font
Unerring style rule … Use plenty of black
Your favorite area of Barcelona … Walking through the Eixample
A tip for designers starting … Consistency
Your ‘leitmotif’ … Follow your instincts
This season, satin is everywhere and is becoming suitable for all occasions, in addition to evening wear night and festive events. This fabric that is characterized by elegant exterior sheen and good consistency has appeared in the Spring-Summer 2017 collections in multiple versions. Let’s review the essential garments so you can be inspired…
1. ‘Sleep Dress’
Draper dresses continue in popularity and large firms are reluctant to abandon this garment that in a few years has made the jump from bed to the street. Thus this season they are no longer worn tight to the body and collections are going for more vaporous and loose models that enhance movement. The most favourable cut for this type of dress is below the knee with a length that varies until reaching the ankle with asymmetric cuts or minimalist style. These satin garments are fully versatile and support both heels and sneakers. On the catwalk they have appeared in satin lingerie brands like Narciso Rodríguez, Rag & Bone, Balmain, Prabal Gurung, among others in neutral or metallic shades.
2. Blouse
The satin blouse is a classic of the wardrobe. The right clothing and fabric never go out of style and this one stands out for its extreme versatility, always providing an extra sophistication: it goes equally well at work, for a meeting or social event or for an informal encounter when combined with jeans. This season it is being worn with V-neck, buttons or with puffed sleeves.
3. Evening Dressing-Gown
It is the trend of the moment and a continuation of fashion lingerie imposed on the latest collections. This garment associated with luxury, eccentricity and dandyism is expanding horizons to conquer new audiences in more urban environments, positioning itself as a perfect alternative for casual wear. In summer prints conquer this satin garment : graphic motifs, stripes and oriental style flowers are the fashion. The evening dressing-gown works very well with smooth garments such as tops with straps or crop tops combined with shorts or slacks. On the catwalk, brands like Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Gucci, Emporio Armani and Alberta Ferretti have opted for this centrepiece of the season.
In our shop we offer you satin fabrics of different shades and prints which allow you to create your favourite garment to your liking. Visit us and we will advise you!
In the world of theatre they say that it brings bad luck, but it is not the case with fashion. And less so in summer. Superstitions aside, this season is tinted in vibrant yellow in a wide range of hues and shades. Vanilla, butter, lemon, mustard, sulfur, corn, honey, banana, pineapple … be guided through the colours of these foods to know what kind of yellow to choose to fill your summer wardrobe optimistically – and if you can’t decide, then opt for all of them because this season this vibrant colour is being worn in uni-colour blocks.
Note the most daring looks by Chanel, Max Mara, Chloé, Valentino and Emilio Pucci who go for this flattering color with in pastel shades, in total brilliance, neon finishes, satin effects or even embroidered translucent with creations that serve for both day and evening.
How to combine yellow?
It is well known that yellow is not a colour easy to wear and sometimes it is to be found only in the wardrobes of the most daring. Let’s break down the frontiers ! There are many ways to combine yellow, softening its effect to make it so less strident. How ?With the full range of neutrals like beige, taupe or ivory, the metallic shades or the black and white duo being relegated to small details or specific accessories that enliven the look.
Fabrics with lemonade effect
One of our inspirations this season is the yellow such as that seen in the trend “sunflower” we showed you on the web. In it you will find all kinds of fabrics ranging from more ethereal and smooth silks and outfits to the very brightest with encrusted sequins. Between these two extremes there is a wealth of prints, such as floral Jacquards, exotic mikados with oriental touches and fabrics with metallic shades. Light up the street with this daring colour!
We invite you to discover the whole new collection on the web or in our store!
Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand. ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic. Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …
What is your plan B?
My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.
What do you mean by basic?
When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.
“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”
Was this at the request of your clientele ? Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …
Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand. We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black. At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.
The concept of timelessness in your brand …
Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments? It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always. The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour. At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.
Tell me more details about the collection …
The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams. The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments. The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier. That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.
“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”
And how do you operate things ?
The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier. I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.
It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …
Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.
By the way, you have changed the location of the studio. You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …
Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home. I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.
“I want the client to feel at home”
What is your link with Gratacós?
I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.
Do you remember how you got to know us?
Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona. I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !” At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop. It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.
About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”
I did not know we were so impressive …
At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind. Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.
Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?
Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.
What challenges do you face for this year?
For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough. Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…
The Gratacós questionnaire …
Your essential garment … A shirt
A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric
A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red
The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.
An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks
Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri
Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play
Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid
a solas con,
alone with,
bolaño,
design,
designer barcelona,
entrevista diseñador,
entrevistas,
fashion barcelona,
gratacos,
Gratacós1940,
interviews,
manuel bolaño,
moda Barcelona,
plan b
We continue to pop up with more imaginative stores sharing good news: our store next week will host the unconventional pop up Sastreria Moderna. This is an initiative inspired by the slow fashion movement that will take place from 18 to 20 May in our store, where customers can interact directly with the designer and squeeze the most out of this relationship. The journalist Laia Beltran, organizer of the event, relies on Gratacós to carry out this ephemeral event. “Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that. In addition, it is a well located working area, very attractive, with a shop-window that faces the street and an enthusiastic team. What more could you ask for?”.
“Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that”
Sastreria Moderna advocates a sustainable, personalized and “low-simmering”fashion that is more rewarding, both for the maker and for the wearer. That is the value of the initiative where the clients can try out the clothing of the invited designer and order it on the spot. “Here the client does not try on a garment, pay for it and take it home inside a bag. Here she tries it on and if she likes it she orders it, with the option of making changes in colour and fabrics. That’s why we call it a non-conventional pop up, “says Laia Beltran. Thus, in a couple of weeks, the garment is made and delivered to the customer with the idea of promoting production on demand and avoiding stocks. In this third edition the possibilities of choosing fabric multiply, given that Gratacós will offer a wide range of possibilities to clients.
The designer EvaHumo as special guest
In the third edition, Sastreria Moderna EvaHumo invited the designer to present in public ‘Jazz’, her new collection. It is an elegant and sensual creation inspired by the twenties, by a woman who dances and surrenders herself without thinking that everything can end at any time. Dresses, blouses and light skirts in powdered colours and with an exciting set of textures. The designer’s more radical side will also be revealed with a selection of unique garments intentionally made for the event where intense colours, prints and handmade finishes predominate. In the presentation of the collection, clients will be able to try on the garments and order them with the fabric suggested by the designer or with any other fabric from Gratacós where we will take the opportunity to advise on the most appropriate choice.
Other Companies Confirmed
Sastreria Moderna will again have the support of several design brands that will put on sale their latest collections. These complements and accessories companies share the same spirit of the initiative in that they go for good design and local production. Thus this edition will feature the minimalist jewelry of Sew a Song and the most exuberant creations of Becker & Co, inspired by the most varied flora and fauna. The leather accessories of Encuire by the designer Eva Estévez will also be present, as will duffle bags - the classic cylindrical bags with sailcloth handles by Equipaje BCN. Finally,in footwear Dorotea’s marvellous sandals are a must. They are made by hand in Menorca with quality leather.
“Here the client tries on tests a garment and, if she likes it, she orders it, with the option of making modifications in colour and fabrics”
Apart from design, Sastrería Moderna also offers the possibility of having a good time among friends. “It’s a good excuse to meet up with old friends, with clients or meet new people. We like to chat with them, invite them to a beer and explain the work of each designer, ” Laia declares.
Sastreria Moderna has the support of Gratacós, the architectural studio and showroom Materia Terricola and Moritz beers.
We ‘re waiting for you!
Barcelona design,
Barcelona fabrics,
barcelona fashion,
Diseño Barcelona,
gratacos,
Gratacós1940,
moda Barcelona,
Modern tailoring,
New talents,
nuevos talentos,
sastreria moderna,
TeJidos Barcelona
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
Olga Menchén has been at the head of the company Menchén Tomàs since 1995 designing, producing and putting together her own fashion collections “which dress women 24 hours a day”.The company is facing a year full of innovations with the launch of her online shop which will allow her to reach out to the international market, also by presenting her collections on the Madrid cat-walk, a fashion-date which according to the designer constitutes “the best shop-window for promotion of Spanish design”. We talked of challenges and opportunities in a year which promises to be full of hope…
How was your experience of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid ? You had some initial nerves, but in the end everything turned out very well…
You always have nerves before a fashion-show, but in this case there was the added pressure of being a debutante on a new cat-walk. The result of the experience was revealing and I can sum it up for you with this sentence …Why didn’t you do it before ?
Why did you decide to go for the Madrid fashion-show ?
Particularly because of the repercussions which the shows have in the media. In Madrid they treated us very well. That is not to say that I’m unhappy with the way Esma Proyectos and all her team treat us in Barcelona, but I noticed a big difference in the coverage of the show in the press and the importance attached to the work of the designer.
“In Madrid there is more media coverage of the catwalk shows”
What didn’t you like about 080 Barcelona Fashion ? Why ?
The decision was an easy one and I was sad not to have done the Barcelona catwalk show, but here there is no real follow-up to the shows and the creative work of the designers is of secondary importance. Personally I don’t agree with the policy of promoting famous people who happen to be currently in favour and the celebrities who attend the shows getting an excessive coverage which eclipses everything else. It doesn’t seem logical to me that they should be more prominent than the designers themselves.
This circus that is organised around the catwalk shows results in fashion becoming perceived as something frivolous… What do you think ?
And fashion is certainly not frivolous ! Fashion is the mechanism that there is “back-stage”: people who work in it in order to get a collection onto the road, those who show passion for their job; it is that creativity and talent which is the life-blood of a company. No way is it frivolous !
“Fashion is the creativity and talent which is the life-blood of a company “
You have been in the job since 1995. What value do you give to this experience ?
I value it as providing an absolute passion towards my work, a passion for the job. If I could go back in time I have no doubt that I would wish to devote myself to it once again. I’m absolutely certain of
that !
How has Menchén Tomàs developed ?
In these last 22 years Menchén Tomàs has experienced many changes. Those I’ve noticed most have been in connection with the way in which the industry creates short-term needs and the manner in which they affect consumers. Previously people bought a designer-suit and they gave it a value. Currently the out-and-out consumer policies of low cost have killed off this concept and it seems that clothes have stopped being valuable.
“Previously people bought a designer-suit and gave it a value”
What is the key to organising every season your own prêt-à-porter, party and bridal collections ? How do you avoid getting lost with so many different productions ?
Menchén Tomàs began by specialising in bridal-wear and gradually we broadened the concept towards dressing women from morning until night. In this way we developed collections for the everyday and also for party clothes. Every area has a different type of clientèle and we can organise and manage it without losing the essence of the company.
How many people are currently working on the company’s team and what are your roles now ?
Everyone is professional and each of them has a specific job. The pattern-makers, the sales and design teams, the external cutting-workers… and I also have a daily feedback with the sales team, with those in charge of the shops throughout Spain in order to know what sells best or worst and to know the needs of the consumers.
What obstacles do you meet in the sector that maybe you didn’t meet previously ? Every day must be a survival experience…
Yes… we have survived everything: economic cycles, sector crises, ups-and- downs… It’s not easy, nor do we have any support, we are still here.
“We don't have any support, but we are still here “
What is your link with Gratacós ?
We’ve worked in parallel since we started. We’ve always worked very closely and every season they have surprises for me.
Why do they deserve your confidence ?
They’ve never let me down.
“Gratacós has never let me down”
What fabrics do you usually ask for ?
We’ve established a kind of game. Every season they tell me they have a surprise for me and after they’ve shown me some fabrics I ask : “ Where is my surprise ?” It’s then that they show me all the samples that I adore and I tell them to keep them for me – she smiles.
What other challenges are you giving yourself for 2017 ?
At the moment we’ve just finished setting up our shop online and it is our shop for everybody. We were able to see a demand for fabrics from other countries and now we will be able to supply them. Then I’ve got two projects in mind, but I’m not going to tell you about them until they take place. I prefer to keep it a secret !
Gratacós Questionnaire
Your essential garment…Jeans and a white shirt
A fetiche fabric… Cotton
A colour you could never give up… Red
A designer you admire… Azzedine Alaïa
An infallible style rule… That you wear the clothes, the clothes don’t wear you
Your favourite place in Barcelona… El Jardín del Taxi, near cerca Riera de San Miquel
A Word of advice for designers starting out… Follow your dreams
VYour ‘leit motiv’… Walk with me
The season of celebrations is coming, a time for big events with family, friends or with your partner. The classic time for: weddings, baptisms and communions. Now is the time to look for the most sophisticated fabrics or experiment with tailored suits to obtain that result that will rise to the occasion.
In spring, the catwalks decline towards tulle, that light and fragile fabric with open structure, in form of a net, so evocative. This lightweight semitransparent fabric is present in the most sophisticated dresses, voluminous skirts, pleated garments and romantic spirit blouses wrapping the body with impact results that enhance the feminine appeal. We analyze some day and night proposals from the large design firms.
Day
White, the palette of raw and ‘nudes’, pastels like dusty pink, baby blue, pearl grey, green ‘mint’ or violet … take centre stage with bare shoulder midi dresses and floaty skirts. Several layers of tulle create sensual transparencies where the skin can be seen without showing it, covering the strategic areas of the female silhouette. We especially like Christian Dior Couture, Del Pozo or Hermès.
Night
Black, navy blue and metallic shades – gold, silver and copper can be seen in evening looks with tighter and more transparent full length tulle dresses. These tulle creations are often accompanied by several inlaid rhinestones and sequins to give them a shiny look or floral embroidery that cover the garments with their beautiful leaves, petals and corollas. Valentino, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera have opted for tulle made garments that ooze sensuality, ideal for evening events.
[
Find some our tulle fabrics here or stop by the store and we ‘ll show you all the novelties. You will be surprised!
The fashion industry is paying homage to the most sensual and delicate colour within the chromatic palette. It is a declaration of love for the pink which is predominating this season in two distinct shades: from the most powdered versions to the most vibrant shades with a clear pre-dominance of fuchsia. There are no halves on the cat-walk.
Pastel shades
The range of nudes and pales give a glimpse of the most romantic side of this colour, presented with subtlety, soft and brilliant at the same time. The luxury fashion-houses have gone for these shades in striking dresses inspired by ballet, draped tops, palazzo trousers or even tweed outfits such as that by Chanel in a further re-invention of its classics.
Vibrant shades
Existing in parallel to the gentlest of shades are the most strident ones such as fuchsia, which is becoming the winning colour among monochromatic looks. In evening-gowns, in Spring coats, in jump-suits with sequins, on top of see-through or lace, in all manner of prints… designers such as Valentino, John Galliano, Chloé, Oscar de la Renta, Hermès… have fallen in love with this enchanting shade which brings a jovial and feminine touch to different styles.
How do you combine pink ?
Apart from the infinite combinations between differing shades pink can be conjoined with the vitamin shades ( yellows and oranges) to create classy outfits with pop nuances. One colour which is definitely impossible is red. The cat-walks bear out the truth of the popular saying “pink and red, not in the same bed “ with attractive blocks which also prove seductive for the queens of street style. Finally there are combinations which never fail such as the alliance of pink with neutral colours or with black or purple for the evening looks.
Get your inspiration here with our pink fabrics !
