Olga Menchén has been at the head of the company Menchén Tomàs since 1995 designing, producing and putting together her own fashion collections “which dress women 24 hours a day”.The company is facing a year full of innovations with the launch of her online shop which will allow her to reach out to the international market, also by presenting her collections on the Madrid cat-walk, a fashion-date which according to the designer constitutes “the best shop-window for promotion of Spanish design”. We talked of challenges and opportunities in a year which promises to be full of hope…
How was your experience of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid ? You had some initial nerves, but in the end everything turned out very well…
You always have nerves before a fashion-show, but in this case there was the added pressure of being a debutante on a new cat-walk. The result of the experience was revealing and I can sum it up for you with this sentence …Why didn’t you do it before ?
Why did you decide to go for the Madrid fashion-show ?
Particularly because of the repercussions which the shows have in the media. In Madrid they treated us very well. That is not to say that I’m unhappy with the way Esma Proyectos and all her team treat us in Barcelona, but I noticed a big difference in the coverage of the show in the press and the importance attached to the work of the designer.
“In Madrid there is more media coverage of the catwalk shows”
What didn’t you like about 080 Barcelona Fashion ? Why ?
The decision was an easy one and I was sad not to have done the Barcelona catwalk show, but here there is no real follow-up to the shows and the creative work of the designers is of secondary importance. Personally I don’t agree with the policy of promoting famous people who happen to be currently in favour and the celebrities who attend the shows getting an excessive coverage which eclipses everything else. It doesn’t seem logical to me that they should be more prominent than the designers themselves.
This circus that is organised around the catwalk shows results in fashion becoming perceived as something frivolous… What do you think ?
And fashion is certainly not frivolous ! Fashion is the mechanism that there is “back-stage”: people who work in it in order to get a collection onto the road, those who show passion for their job; it is that creativity and talent which is the life-blood of a company. No way is it frivolous !
“Fashion is the creativity and talent which is the life-blood of a company “
You have been in the job since 1995. What value do you give to this experience ?
I value it as providing an absolute passion towards my work, a passion for the job. If I could go back in time I have no doubt that I would wish to devote myself to it once again. I’m absolutely certain of
that !
How has Menchén Tomàs developed ?
In these last 22 years Menchén Tomàs has experienced many changes. Those I’ve noticed most have been in connection with the way in which the industry creates short-term needs and the manner in which they affect consumers. Previously people bought a designer-suit and they gave it a value. Currently the out-and-out consumer policies of low cost have killed off this concept and it seems that clothes have stopped being valuable.
“Previously people bought a designer-suit and gave it a value”
What is the key to organising every season your own prêt-à-porter, party and bridal collections ? How do you avoid getting lost with so many different productions ?
Menchén Tomàs began by specialising in bridal-wear and gradually we broadened the concept towards dressing women from morning until night. In this way we developed collections for the everyday and also for party clothes. Every area has a different type of clientèle and we can organise and manage it without losing the essence of the company.
How many people are currently working on the company’s team and what are your roles now ?
Everyone is professional and each of them has a specific job. The pattern-makers, the sales and design teams, the external cutting-workers… and I also have a daily feedback with the sales team, with those in charge of the shops throughout Spain in order to know what sells best or worst and to know the needs of the consumers.
What obstacles do you meet in the sector that maybe you didn’t meet previously ? Every day must be a survival experience…
Yes… we have survived everything: economic cycles, sector crises, ups-and- downs… It’s not easy, nor do we have any support, we are still here.
“We don't have any support, but we are still here “
What is your link with Gratacós ?
We’ve worked in parallel since we started. We’ve always worked very closely and every season they have surprises for me.
Why do they deserve your confidence ?
They’ve never let me down.
“Gratacós has never let me down”
What fabrics do you usually ask for ?
We’ve established a kind of game. Every season they tell me they have a surprise for me and after they’ve shown me some fabrics I ask : “ Where is my surprise ?” It’s then that they show me all the samples that I adore and I tell them to keep them for me – she smiles.
What other challenges are you giving yourself for 2017 ?
At the moment we’ve just finished setting up our shop online and it is our shop for everybody. We were able to see a demand for fabrics from other countries and now we will be able to supply them. Then I’ve got two projects in mind, but I’m not going to tell you about them until they take place. I prefer to keep it a secret !
Gratacós Questionnaire
Your essential garment…Jeans and a white shirt
A fetiche fabric… Cotton
A colour you could never give up… Red
A designer you admire… Azzedine Alaïa
An infallible style rule… That you wear the clothes, the clothes don’t wear you
Your favourite place in Barcelona… El Jardín del Taxi, near cerca Riera de San Miquel
A Word of advice for designers starting out… Follow your dreams
VYour ‘leit motiv’… Walk with me
The most evocative tulle
The season of celebrations is coming, a time for big events with family, friends or with your partner. The classic time for: weddings, baptisms and communions. Now is the time to look for the most sophisticated fabrics or experiment with tailored suits to obtain that result that will rise to the occasion.
In spring, the catwalks decline towards tulle, that light and fragile fabric with open structure, in form of a net, so evocative. This lightweight semitransparent fabric is present in the most sophisticated dresses, voluminous skirts, pleated garments and romantic spirit blouses wrapping the body with impact results that enhance the feminine appeal. We analyze some day and night proposals from the large design firms.
Day
White, the palette of raw and ‘nudes’, pastels like dusty pink, baby blue, pearl grey, green ‘mint’ or violet … take centre stage with bare shoulder midi dresses and floaty skirts. Several layers of tulle create sensual transparencies where the skin can be seen without showing it, covering the strategic areas of the female silhouette. We especially like Christian Dior Couture, Del Pozo or Hermès.
Night
Black, navy blue and metallic shades – gold, silver and copper can be seen in evening looks with tighter and more transparent full length tulle dresses. These tulle creations are often accompanied by several inlaid rhinestones and sequins to give them a shiny look or floral embroidery that cover the garments with their beautiful leaves, petals and corollas. Valentino, Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera have opted for tulle made garments that ooze sensuality, ideal for evening events.
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Find some our tulle fabrics here or stop by the store and we ‘ll show you all the novelties. You will be surprised!
La vie en rose
The fashion industry is paying homage to the most sensual and delicate colour within the chromatic palette. It is a declaration of love for the pink which is predominating this season in two distinct shades: from the most powdered versions to the most vibrant shades with a clear pre-dominance of fuchsia. There are no halves on the cat-walk.
Pastel shades
The range of nudes and pales give a glimpse of the most romantic side of this colour, presented with subtlety, soft and brilliant at the same time. The luxury fashion-houses have gone for these shades in striking dresses inspired by ballet, draped tops, palazzo trousers or even tweed outfits such as that by Chanel in a further re-invention of its classics.
Vibrant shades
Existing in parallel to the gentlest of shades are the most strident ones such as fuchsia, which is becoming the winning colour among monochromatic looks. In evening-gowns, in Spring coats, in jump-suits with sequins, on top of see-through or lace, in all manner of prints… designers such as Valentino, John Galliano, Chloé, Oscar de la Renta, Hermès… have fallen in love with this enchanting shade which brings a jovial and feminine touch to different styles.
How do you combine pink ?
Apart from the infinite combinations between differing shades pink can be conjoined with the vitamin shades ( yellows and oranges) to create classy outfits with pop nuances. One colour which is definitely impossible is red. The cat-walks bear out the truth of the popular saying “pink and red, not in the same bed “ with attractive blocks which also prove seductive for the queens of street style. Finally there are combinations which never fail such as the alliance of pink with neutral colours or with black or purple for the evening looks.
Get your inspiration here with our pink fabrics !
Carlotaoms and les Chausseurs open a shop in Barcelona
Local design with its own production and workmanship is once again taking hold in the popular district of Gràcia in Barcelona. The new tenants are two companies very closely associated with Barcelona: Carlotaoms – twice a winner of the National Prize for Emerging Design in the 080 Barcelona Fashion competition .- and the footwear of Les Chausseurs by Lambert Perera, which is joining the designers Elisabet Carlota and Elisenda Oms to share in the same shop-space a professional project which is similar in essence and in its affinities.
Situated in no.11 Calle Planeta the new premises seek to reinforce the claims of Catalan design. “ We really wanted to have a sales-point and this will help us to get to know the tastes and needs of consumers directly by creating an enriching shopping experience”, says the designer Elisabet Carlota. This studio-shop houses the collections from all of Carlotaoms’s seasons, which are characterised by being of limited series, with numbered garments. Comfortable and conceptual designs, pure lines, light-weight fabrics, urban style and discreet prints are some of the keys to the identity of the brand. Hitherto clothes by Carlotaoms has been unisex, although the intention now is to opt exclusively for female clientele: “We are taking our inspiration from the current of Womenomics which emphasises the active rôle of women in the economy as a source of wealth, efficiency and equity”, Elisenda Oms explains.
What will not change is their creative and production strategy, Km 0, in which companies and work-shops in the vicinity of Barcelona participate, thus promoting the local textile industry. Currently the company distribute in Spain and it is present in Paris, Berlin and Seoul. Among its more immediate plans are the expansion to Japan and Canada and the opening of its online shop.
The looks of Carlotaoms are complemented by mens’ and womens’ shoes by Les Chausseurs, which share the same philosophy, based on design, quality and workmanship. Finally the new shop is also conceived of as a cultural area which periodically will serve to link other creative Barcelona talents from various artistic disciplines.
Alone with…ImmaClé
ImmaClé is the design alter ego of Imma Rodríguez Clemento, the seal of an author who has spent 25 years at the helm of the heterogeneous bridal sector. The company tells a love story via fashion expressed in delicate fabrics, a vintage feel and shades of romanticism, without becoming dull; an expression of the Mediterranean Sea for feminine, spontaneous and eclectic brides who are in tune with the dream-like universe offered by ImmaClé.
Why did you decide to focus your professional career on the wedding sector ?
When I was studying design and in the second year of career my sister was getting married. She did not want a classic wedding dress and asked me to design her according to her taste because she could not find anything she liked. The dress was a success. My friends began to ask for new designs and I was struck because I wasn’t selling dresses so much as dreams. It was at this time that I decided to focus on the bridal sector.
"I wasn't selling dresses so much as dreams"
So your passion was due to circumstances…
I suppose that I also inherited something. My mother worked in fashion and I had a lot of relatives who were active in the world of couture as they sewed dresses for people in high society.
Why did you decide to put your name to the brand ?
When I left college I started with the brand Imma Rodríguez Clemente and I already had a fixed number of customers. It was due to a comment made by one of them that she hadn’t seen the name of the brand that I decided to adjust it, but without losing the essence; from that came the name ImmaClé, because that was what I wanted to put across.
You’ve now had your own silver wedding at the head of the company. What does this mean for you ?
I have the satisfaction of working in something that I enjoy.
So it’s pretty clear that if you had your time again you would still study design …
Definitely. Over all these years the work dynamic has changed. Before I myself was responsible for the creative process and the production: I designed, cut the patterns, put together the garments… Now I have the support of a team and split the work in such a way that I can concentrate on the design, on trends and can look after distribution and attendance at trade-fairs…Little by little the brand is opening up to new markets so that every bride can have an “ImmaClé”.
How does one establish identity within the bridal sector ? What is the ImmaClé bride like ?
The bride of today wants to feel identified with the dress she is wearing and demands versatility in the design. She doesn’t like garments which are too stiff or classical, preferring natural fabrics which allow ease of movement. My style is more Boho-chic with vintage touches and I put a lot of emphasis on details on the back.
What will we see in the current bridal collection ?
Very many varied fabrics, such as tulle, crepe, embroidery, colourful flowers in different textures, chantilly, plenty of crochet, which I adore. In general I design timeless dresses defined by style rather than trends. That doesn’t mean that I’m turning my back on these. For example, in the collection “Tanger” there are sleeves with frills which are a current trend, but we adapt it to the brand identity so that they are still elegant. With regard to colour I still go for off-white and for all the nude shades.
“I design dresses defined by style rather than trends”
Has the “Boudoir” collection of intimate garments gone down well ?
I started it some years ago to do something different and to complement our bridal range by designing underwear for brides. It was a success at the time, but now I have decided to go back to concentrating only on dress design. For the moment I keep it as a complement in case a customer asks for it.
What is your link with Gratacós ?
I’ve always adored the shop, their team, their choice; in terms of quality of fabrics they are the best.
What type of fabrics do you select from the shop to make your collections ?
Many of those that I have mentioned previously, because I regularly use them in every collection.
“In terms of quality of fabrics Gratacós is the best “
What challenges are you giving yourself for this year ?
I don’t enjoy attending big trade-fairs to exhibit my company because I think I relate to people in more intimate surroundings. Now I am planning to look for new sales-points in places where I have direct contact with my customers. One action I like is that of fashion trucks, taking collections and garments in a caravan to destinations I have targeted, whether it be Milan, Madrid, Asturias, Burgos or Zaragoza… There are potential customers in many places.
Gratacós Questionnaire
Your indispensable garment… dress
A fetish fabric…crochet
The colour you wouldn’t give up… off-white or nude shades
A designer you admire…Josep Font
An infallible style rule… Your dress needs to represent you. You don’t have to feel you are in disguise
A favourite place in Barcelona… The Born district
Advice for people starting out… It’s not an easy path to tread and you have to be persistent
Your “leitmotif”…Thank you for choosing ImmaClé, bridal-wear with love
Fashion and Feminism
The fashion industry is exhalting the power of women and demanding gender equality via the cat-walk, with numerous personalities joining the cause in one way or another. Before the celebration of the International Day for Working Women we outline some of the most radical fashion-parades of this season. A new feminism is being woven within the sector and it is capable of stirring consciences…
The Dior Revolution
Something has been afoot in Dior since the traditional “maison” incorporated Valentino and now the Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who becomes the first woman to head the creative management of the company. This change was shown to full effect in the first collection which the designer presented in Paris last September. To illustrate the feminine commitment Maria Grazia Chiuri took as her point of departure the uniform worn in fencing – which is virtually the same for both men and women – to express the duality between fragility and strength, head and heart in a kind of non-gender fashion which advocates equality of conditions. Following on from that, in the second part of the parade feminine style was more in evidence with flat shoes, full and transparent garments printed with powerful messages such as We Should All Be Feminists. This t-shirt has already stood out as one of the key garments of this Spring for its revolutionary character and for the fact that hundreds of women, including celebrities such as Rihanna or Natalie Portman, wore it in protests like the #Women’s March in Washington. The revolution continues in Winter and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second collection, presented a few days ago in Paris, maintains the feminist line with garments and messages less evident at first sight but equally subversive. Key detail: the designer came out to greet the public with the famous white bandana, a symbol of the cause.
An energetic and positive step
The British designer, known for her ecological commitment (she advocates sustainable fabrics and does not use animal skins ) also takes advantage of the Paris parade to launch feminist demands without abandoning the environmental cause. Hence her Spring-Summer 2017 collection, presented in the Garnier Palace, displayed comfortable garments for today’s woman combined with colourful prints and cotton t-shirts charged with messages in English such as “Thanks, Girls “, “Say No to Skins” or “Love” in very graphic and sporty prints. The most surprising thing about Stella McCartney’s parade was the final dance, which became a viral phenomenon in the social networks. The models jumped up onto the famous carousel with a dance choreographed by the Spaniard Blanca Li which celebrated this girl power with a great deal of energy and high doses of optimism.
Prabal Gurung
The latest to revolutionise the cat-walk with a presentation which defends women and femininity without labels is the Nepalese designer Prabal Gurung. Apart from the fluid garments, comfortable designs and versatility of the silhouettes, which are conceived for all types of women, the designer also opted for models from all ethnic backgrounds and of all sizes in a fashion which makes no distinction of any type. The Autumn-Winter collection 2017 / 2018 presented in January in New York ended with a women’s march in support of equal rights and against the controversial speeches of Donald Trump. Hence models like Bella Hadid exhibited on t-shirts powerful slogans of the Seventies such as The Future is female, Our minds/ our bodies/ our power, I have a dream, to the song “Imagine” by John Lennon. For all those present it provided an emotional end in a new demonstration of strength and of the key feminist demands.
(Español) Gratacós en la pasarela madrileña
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
Lessons in Geometry
We say goodbye to the Winter season with a trend which links into Spring: geometric prints
Prints with a zig-zag, stripes, polka dots of all sizes, graphic blocks, two-colour mosaics, checks, squares…prints which create suggestive optical effects are on the way back, bringing a Sixties twist to the silhouettes of the new collections. In the main these are being presented in black and white, although there is also room for vibrant colours like blue, orange, green or red. Below we analyse three of the most popular graphic motifs of this Spring.
1. Stripes
Stripes are becoming Spring’s star print, ranging from fine to broad and in a multitude of colours mixed on one and the same garment. From the sober looks of suits with diplomatic stripes to the more summery outfits with multi-coloured prints.
2. Polka Dots
Polka dots are moving away from folk-lore inspirations and are acquiring a more artistic tone, yet without abandoning the aura of retro. Predominant here are black, white and red circles of totally arbitrary size. They range from the traditional look by Dolce & Gabbana through to the contemporary re-visiting offered by Céline. There are interpretations to suit all tastes.
3. Checked
Back to the fray comes tartan with an emphasis on red and the coquettish print Vicky in classical black and white. Apart from the checker-board classics one innovation is the wearing of rectangular prints with a blurred effect such as those seen on the cat-walks of Louis Vuitton or Alexander McQueen.
In Gratacós too you will find graphic inspiration in the fabrics which we offer. You can see them here
Casa Gracia, just like being at home
Staying in a hostel is not always synonymous with bunk-beds, shared toilets, food which leaves something to be desired and in general little space for intimacy. In Barcelona you can stay in luxury at competitive prices in places which right down to the last detail spoil those travellers who prefer this type of accommodation yet without sacrificing a smidgeon of comfort. What’s more, if they are aficionados of local customs and cuisine, then what more can they ask for?
One iconic place in the city- situated very close to our workshop – is Casa Gracia, which is considered the first luxury hostel for what it offers in terms of comfort, design, culture and food. It is a place which is integrated into the picturesque district of Gràcia and which stakes a claim for local district tourism as the best way of getting to know the essence of a city.
Casa Gracia has 145 different rooms available, from the most basic to the suites with balconies and patios which look out over the celebrated street Paseo de Gracia. The intention is to be able to welcome all manner of guests, from different countries of origin and with differing purchasing power, people who share the desire to mix with other travellers and to discover local life, far distant from the crowded areas and “beach flip-flops” tourism.
As we mentioned at the beginning, the most interesting facet of this tastefully decorated establishment is its gastro-cultural side, grouping together both tourists who are passing through and residents of Barcelona. It is a meeting- point for establishing conversations, sampling local-produce dishes, setting up informal meetings or simply sipping a large cup of coffee on one of the long sofas. Among the attractions available mention should be made of the bistro La Paisana, the cocktail-bar BIS, the private lounge for dinners Petit Bis or the multi-functional area De Tranquis. What’s more, this area also is a venue for book presentations, exhibitions and conferences open to the public ; recently the fashion dialogues Designer Fashion Experiences, in which we, as patrons, were participants, took place here.
If you are looking for a moment of relaxation, in the basement there is a small spa available to guests, whilst the lounge No Mas Té is an area given over to cultural events and yoga classes.
Just like home, or even better…
Casa Gracia, Designers Fashion Experiences, gratacos, Lifestyle Barcelona
08700 , Industry and Local Design in Igualada
We like initiatives which take into account all agencies within the sector and which provide a platform for the smallest companies, stick up for local industry and back those who need a push to reactivate a business which had been affected by the economic crisis. In this respect 080 Barcelona Fashion, via various public institutions in Catalonia and textile organisations, has provided the impulse for a new event for the promotion of textile and design in the l’Anoia region.
The initiative is called 08700- Nits de Pell i Punt ( Nights of Fur and Knitwear ) and next Thursday 23rd February in Igualada it will reunite a sample of designers and professionals within the sector in a single day-session where emerging designers and Catalan companies linked to leather-ware will participate in a fashion-parade. Below we give you more details about each of the participants:
1. Zer
The company set-up by the debutants Núria Costa and Anne Costo conceives of fashion as being each person’s demand for individuality. These two designers create knitted garments enhanced by the latest technological innovations.
2. Alicia González
This young designer has worked in the design department of companies such as Josep Font, Lydia Delgado, Guillermina Baeza and Mango. In Mango she discovered her passion for knitwear. In her company ODD ONE OUT Alicia González goes for an “urban luxury” style with knitted garments created with superior fibres and hand-crafted techniques. She offers quality, exclusivity and atemporality in clothes where the very last detail spoils the wearer.
3. Xavi Grados
After his appearance at 080 Barcelona Fashion the designer from Igualada combines his work in his own company with that he carried out in the design department of Punto Blanco. Xavi Grados carries the banner for his town with the knitwear and leather-work in each and every one of his garments placing emphasis on the raw materials.
4. Peletería VM La Sibèria
This celebrated Barcelona furrier, founded in 1891, continues tradition thanks to the passion for the job which each generation of the same family has inherited. Peletería VM La Sibèria are experts in producing the furs in locally-based work-shops where all attention is given to innovation and design.
In this economic and cultural encounter, which will take place in La Sala, in the Cercle Mercantil there will also be an exhibition of products designed by entrepreneurs and local brands produced in the region.
It offers a date with local industry at the end of a week full of activities linked to the fashion industry. Everything suggests that, in addition to the biennial fashion-parades, 080 Barcelona Fashion will continue its commitment to backing promotional initiatives in fashion which are springing up in various parts of Catalonia.