February is the month for fashion weeks. Barcelona, New York, London, now Madrid and to finish off Milan. Concentrating on the Spanish capital, in this edition a total of 42 Spanish companies will parade on the cat-walk Mercedes/Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), which is presenting an agenda full of organisational innovations. One of these is the incorporation of Charo Izquierdo as director, who takes over from Leonor Pérez-Pita. Another is in the participating creative designers, with new names to swell their list. As usual the main event in Spanish fashion will take place from 16th until 21st February in pavilion number 14.1 of Ifema.
Teresa Helbig
With regard to the designers, this year sees the addition of important names in fashion such as Custo Barcelona, Menchén Tomàs and Marcos Luengo. The first two are regulars of the Catalan fashion-parades. These individual-based companies are in addition to the list of designers who participate every year in the MBFWM, such as Roberto Verino, Angel Schlesser, Moisés Nieto, Miguel Marinero, Teresa Helbig, The 2nd Skin Co or Maine, amongst other well-known names.
Juan Carlos Pajares
In the category of young fashion talents, SAMSUNG EGO also mentions the designer Juan Carlos Pajares, whose path we have been following since his debut last year. He is a fashion entrepreneur from Guadalajara with a style that has proved seductive for many Spanish celebrities. The Samsung Ego Showroom will take place in El Cibelespacio and will feature the participation of fifteen young designers.
Roberto Verino
The trend “I see it and I want it” is becoming established in Spain.
Without doubt the trend revelation of the year is the so-called “See now, Buy Now” boasted by international fashion-houses such as Tom Ford, Burberry or Tommy Hilfiger. After its success in080Barcelona Fashion this novel business concept of presenting the collections which consumers will then buy on-the-spot is arriving in Madrid courtesy of Roberto Verino. This new formula consists in creating collections which customers can see and buy on-the-spot, encouraging a consumption which is sustainable and responsible.
At Gratacós we will be keeping a close watch on the fashion-parades so as to not lose sight of any of our fabrics. We will keep you informed…
Alone with… SSIC and Paul
Paula Boadas and Jessica Raya are the alma mater of SSIC and Paul, a fashion-house founded in 2012 which combines creativity with functionality via garments with a Nordic inspiration which nonetheless do not lose their Mediterranean essence. The brand goes for a rational design along minimalist lines in which priority is given to shapes and materials, all under the label “made in Barcelona”, for workmanship and locally-based production in a company which opts for discreet luxury.
Do you recall how the project started ?
Paula: Yes, of course ! – she smiles – It was in our days as design students in Felicidad Duce. We met there, got on well and started to create a joint project.
Jessica: the truth is that we had a pretty good idea that we wanted to focus on this and to establish a brand.
SSIC and Paul is in fact an abbreviation of your two names…
Paula: Exactly ! It’s difficult to remember the name of the brand, but they are our abbreviated initials. We don’t complicate things by searching for other ones !
What do each of you bring to the brand ? How do you structure things ?
Jessica: In reality the two of us do everything and we complement each other with regard to ideas for the collections. Basically it is practical that there are two of us because we can give each other ideas.
Paula: The truth is that the key to our success is that right from the start we have also had this empathy and this commonality. We’ve been together 10 years, 5 of which are as a brand, which is no small thing. Now we have more business acumen we share the design tasks and then we divide up the work to produce it all.
“ It’s practical that there are two of us because we can give each other ideas !
What I specifically wanted to ask you both is when did you change your approach to give your company a more business-oriented slant ?
Paula : To be specific it was the moment we realised that it wasn’t a game and that we wanted to dedicate ourselves to it. We tailor our products to price and we always adapt to the market.
Jessica: Yes, when you start to run shops you come to see what people like, what sells and what doesn’t sell.
How do you find the happy medium between the commercial and the creative ?
Paula: Obviously you have to have your feet on the ground, but without sacrificing design, quality or creativity. The only thing we do is to make some garments more commercial and others more conceptual.
Jessica: Without doubt that is the most difficult part, because you have to develop your own identity but also take into account that what you create is saleable.
So in your case the identity is Northern soul and Mediterranean essence ?
Jessica: Yes, we have a minimalist, more contemporary style, more in keeping with northern design, but we adapt it to our soociety. We like our brand to be linked with the northern soul of the Mediterranean.
Paula: We also consider ourselves a brand “made in Barcelona” because we make everything in our workshops here.
“You have to have your feet on the ground, but without sacrificing design or creativity”
Two years ago you opened your own shop in the Sant Gervasi district. How many other business outlets do you have ?
Paula: Yes, and now we have 15 multi-brand sales points throught Spain and we are growing on the international front.
In which countries ?
Jessica: Italy, Belgium, USA and now Mexico. It also depends on the collection.
What is your link with Gratacós ?
We’ve always seen the shop as a point of reference in Barcelona. We especially adore it because in addition to the quality they also sell different fabrics which offer a little bit more than what already exists in the market.
Paula: Yes, above all the quality, which is noted in the fabrics and the textures. In Gratacós we like to buy the fabrics for holiday collections, they are dazzlingly spectacular.
“Gratacós sells fabrics which are different from what already exists in the market “
What challenges are you giving yourselves for 2017 ?
Paula: Global international expansion. Now we are concentrating on trade-fairs in order to acquire more international customers. We are looking outwards.
Gratacós Questionnaire
Your “must have” garment… tunic
A fetish fabric…silk
The colour you won’t give up… ivory
An infallible style rule… Cloaks and overlays
Favourite place in Barcelona…Gratacós
Advice for starters…Keep going
Your “leitmotif”… Northern soul from the Mediterranean
Future of Fashion, Day sessions for Emerging Talent
There are more and more initiatives aimed at emerging talent in design and whose structure and organisational capacity are improving, so that gradually they are coming to exert their influence on the all-powerful fashion industry. The latest to give a voice to young designers are the Future of Fashion days organised by the newly created platform Piscolabis Designers, the association of emerging independent designers from Catalonia, an entity dedicated to encouraging and spreading a creativity with its own identity and whose production is local and limited. No cloning and no overcrowding.
These days will take place these coming 4th and 5th February in the multi-functional Mazda Space and within the framework of “Activity OFF” of the 080 Barcelona Fashion parade which takes place this week in the city. So during that weekend Future of Fashion will give us a close-up view of the most striking creations by 35 emerging designers from Barcelona with a selection of clothes, footwear, hand-bags, jewelry, bric-à- brac and furnishings. The show-room will be a feature of artistic decoration created by the interior designer Diego Candea in collaboration with the School of Window-Dressing and Artidi Visual Merchandising.
Apart from the commercial angle, Future of Fashion will also feature didactic and informative aspects with regard to entrepreneurial matters and design. For that reason prestigious professionals from the world of fashion, technology, marketing, business strategy and fashion trends will give presentations on specific topics. Mónica Mendoza, Laura Clèries, Juan Pablo Sánchez, Estel Vilaseca, Jaume Vidiella, Sònia Rotats, Ignasi Saun, Aldanondo and Fdez. There will also be round-table discussions led by participating designers such as Citrique Heart, Colmillo de Morsa or Elena Estaun, amongst others.
In addition to design and its promotion there will also be various musical sessions by D.J.’s from Discos Paradiso, films, videos and an exhibition about the creative process, where participating designers will share visually their most intimate moments.
This is a unique opportunity to get to know some of the designers and sector professionals from the local community. Highly recommended!
A Winter Classic
Cloth, corduroy and wool constitute the ideal trident to face up to the low temperatures. Some people brand them as classics because they can be worn in all seasons, by virtue of their long history within fashion or due to their versatility. What nobody can deny is that now is the moment when these fabrics are shown in their full splendour.
On the catwalks wool can also be glimpsed in winter outfits yet without the slightest loss in style. This natural fabric is present in beautiful coats with a masculine style, double-sided or with the twin buttons of military aesthetic; tailored jackets or cloaks that are in fashion for yet another season, adorning some looks with their innate elegance. This adaptable fabric also proves seductive with other garments such as the unbeatable thick jumpers so suited to these months, clean-cut midi-skirts or dresses with a minimalist look.
How best to wear this fabric? This season wool is to be found in the form of figure-eights, mottled, with thick stitches or in the form of canalé in XXL size. As well it can be worn for its own look, the contrasts joining woollen garments with other diametrically-opposed fabrics such as silk. The top colours this winter are pink in all of its shades, navy-blue and those unbeatable browns.
In Gratacós we also have woollen fabrics which will enable you to add to your wardrobe this warm garment which is so needed in the coming months. Be inspired!
The Winning Trio in Independent Design
They are not everyday designers and each of them maintains his or her differing style within the independent design sector, a cake to be divided up between creators who share the same philosophy: authenticity, character, workmanship, honesty and just some doses of austerity. Txell Miras, Josep Abril y Miriam Ponsa gelled very well in the Rec district of Igualada, where in the same presentation space they defended their creations before the consumers who were visiting the Rec.0 Experimental Stores, a commercial initiative in a temporary format where twice a year fashion companies sell their stock. This casual alliance, together with good relations between the three of them swiftly led towards a robust and motivating project for all three.
Some years ago the experimental shop Project #01 in the district of Le Marais, the celebrated fashion district of Paris, was born in a similar way. The good welcome it received in the French capital was key to its successful move to Barcelona. In a similar way, when NU#2 emerged last year in the Eixample it revitalized local trade with its offering of alternative design, its ethics and aesthetics far away from the traditional franchises and chain-stores that flood the centre of Barcelona.
NU#2 is not a conventional shop and the presentation are reflects the essence of the designs and the personality of its creators. As its name indicates, #NU2 is a reference to nudity and its radical approach is to show the world fashion such as they conceive it, without make-up or cover-up. Situated in a 260m2 former store-house for electrical materials #NU2 recreates the spirit of the original space by preserving its structure and the charm of its old industrial aesthetic as found in the cracks in the walls or faults in the floor. In it Txell Miras, Josep Asbril and Miriam Ponsa exhibit the season’s male and female fashion collections while at the same time housing other designers with a similar attitude and which complement what is on offer, such as handbags by Cristina Corres, shoes by the Mallorcan Pep Monjo, pieces of industrial design by Aparentment or the spectacular metallic furniture of Jonathan Singleton, who was also responsible for the lay-out of the shop-window and for what is hanging in the shop. Nothing is there just by chance.
The space is also often utilized as a multi-purpose hall where events are held which are linked to independent fashion. Recently the influential Catalan trio opened a new shop, #NU3 situated on the creator design floor in Pedralbes Centre. One more reason to confirm that a different form of production and consumption is possible and totally necessary within the current panorama.
Greenery, the color of 2017
Every year one colour is crowned king of the chromatic palette. A shade which dominates, marks and inspires the world of fashion, design, decoration and advertising, amongst other spheres. Its choice is not mere haphazard whim, because behind its nomination there is a powerful universal authority on colour which, via an exhaustive sociological study, finds the shade which will influence the coming twelve months with its communicative power and its capacity to influence moods.
So it is that according to Pantone, an international reference-point for colouring, this year 2017 will be tinged with Greenery green. A vivid and cheerful shade which is bursting forth this year as symbol of a transition from moments of troubled upheaval. Leatrice Eiseman, the executive head of Pantone, refers to this shade as “the tranquility that we yearn for in the midst of the tumultuous social and political panorama that surrounds us. Satisfying our growing desire for rejuvenation and revitalisation, Greenery symbolizes the reconnection with nature which all of us are seeking, something which offers us greater things “. This last affirmation makes reference to our need to connect with the fresh air and to wonder at the physical beauty of the natural world: fields, forests, mountains…a way of escaping our modern life in cities with drab-coloured buildings and roads. In this context Eiseman assures us that Greenery “evokes the days of early Spring, when Nature is revived, restored and renewed.” This shade of green also connects with a healthy life-style, with organic and natural food, re-stating the value of what the earth provides additives-free.
Greenery green contains brush-strokes of yellow and is a fairly unusual shade in the fashion world, although easily recognizable. On the cat-walk companies like Gucci and Balenciaga have included this colour in their Spring-Summer collections. In decoration the light and tranquility of Greenery will creep into the home by revealing it’s so seductive natural exuberance. This shade blends with earthy and wood colours, with the monochromatic ranges where neutral colours predominate. Apart from the presence of plants Greenery will be taking over fabrics, textiles and walls, with infinite decorative possibilities.
You will find our Greenery fabrics inspirational for welcoming in this new period of renewal with a vivid, cheerful and natural colour.
The see through effect
We start 2017 by recalling a festive look by the Barcelona designer Juan Pedro López which we found particularly captivating by virtue of its bold combination of colours and fabrics which create a sensual see-through effect due to super-imposed layers.
This elegant design formed part of the collection “Part XIV” corresponding with the Autumn-Winter season 2013/2014 presented on the parade 080 Barcelona Fashion. According to its designer the inspiration for the look is to be found in the sculptures of Gabo and Pevsner. It is an original design based on those volume and transparencies which envelop the silhouette of a woman. Juan Pedro López uses materials of organza and silk to create this effect of appearances and reflections, where feminine curves are exhalted in garments which fluctuate with the movement of every step.
An ethereal and delicate design which is not at all conventional and which is perfect for these festive days.
Here you will find some of our organza and satin fabrics to inspire you with new designs.
Gratacós stamps its mark in “Velvet”
Gratacós fabrics also shone in the final of “Velvet”. They did so in the successful event “The Happening of the Year”, the party with which the popular period series wished to reward the loyalty of all of its fans. A big date which Antena 3 organised on 14th December in the Círculo de Bellas Artes in Madrid and which offered all manner of activities to the 2.500 plus people who visited the area during the day.
Amongst the activities there stood out one which involves us directly: the exhibition of the winning dresses from the design competitition which “Velvet”put a start to this past 20th September. An initiative by Antena 3, IFEMA – Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, ModaEspaña and Madrid es Moda in order to give an opportunity to young talents and to promote their work on television. The three designs chosen from the competition form part of the first prêt-à-porter collection by Galerías Velvet.
The competition was a success in terms of participation and stood out by the quality of the entries – more than 400 of them – of which 6 finalist designs were selected. These models were put together in the workshop “Al Dedal”, the property of Lola Piña, a company which in 2015 was awarded the Fashion Prize. From the finalist designs eventually 3 winners were selected, by designers Rebeca Jover, Tatiana López Pombo and Juan José Grajera Fuentes, all of whom put together the models with our seasonal fabrics.
To be specific, Rebeca went for a black and cream satin mikado together with a fitted and lined black tulle to complete an elegant evening dress. Tatiana López produced a sophisticated design with red mikado and lining. Finally Juan José Grajera created a design based on maroon satin and wool, lined and with a sheepskin neck. The result: pure distinction.
All the designs sported the label “Made in Spain” and were chosen by a jury of experts from the sector such as Cuca Solana, the director of MBFWM and the designers Modesto Lomba and Hannibal Laguna, amongst others.
Congratulations on the results !
The success of Designers Fashion Experiences
The first edition of the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences is drawing to an end, leaving behind a good taste in the mouth both for the organisers and the participants of the day-sessions, with enriching experiences which have served to strengthen both the professional career and personal life of the designers. “This format has helped participants to understand what are the essential nuts and bolts of the companies, both through positive situations of expansion and innovation and through other negative ones which have only made them stronger”, was the verdict of David Boix, the director of the initiative. A stimulus both for the young people just starting out and for companies such as Gratacós which are actively linked to this so talented industry.
The sessions of Designers’ Fashion Experiences took place last Autumn in Casa Gracia ( Passeig de Gracia 116 ) via 6 inspirational presentations given by Dolores Cortés, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miguel Suay, Jordi Dalmau, Oscarleon and Txell Miras.
Here you will find a résumée of each session:
1. Dolores Cortés
The Spanish company specialising in bathroom fashion set out differing points of view of the fashion industry, covering the family origins of the company from its beginnings until the present day and detailing certain concepts which are linked to the design of the collections. Dolores Cortés left those present with one very clear premise: the need to be faithful to brand values. In this case the company is linked with loyalty, honesty and the family, always bearing in mind the need to adapt to new times.
2. Llamazares y de Delgado
Fabrizio Pérez and Jaime Martínez are the designers of Llamazares y de Delgado, a company based in Barcelona which is tenaciously surviving the continual ups and downs within the sector. The keys to survival are via conscience, self-criticism, financing and relations with suppliers, without losing sight of the criterion of proximity to all processes: design, production, promotion and sales.
3. Miquel Suay
The Valencian designer concentrated specifically on the creative process and how he finds inspiration in his collections by adding valuable advice, such as how to give shape to an idea and where to source and research in order to survive and prosper day to day as a design professional. Creativity alone is never sufficient in order to be successful in the sector. Rather it must always be accompanied by good business-practice, applying market strategies.
4. Jordi Dalmau
The designer of bridal fashion explained to those present his motive for setting up as a brand, the family support in creating an artistic partnership, the limits that he continually crosses in order to remain innovative in the bridal-wear market. He emphasised the need for uniqueness in every design as a symbol of identity. One piece of advice remained imprinted on the students: “Giving up the fight means giving up everything.” He certainly will not throw in the towel.
5. Oscarleon
A graduate in design, pattern-making, stylism and image consultancy, the designer created his own collection in 1996 and since then has never stopped working for his own brand, an activity that he combines with the design of collections for other companies. In the session the designer took the opportunity to chat with participants about their own beginnings, making reference to the transformation of fabrics, financing and the balance betwen creation and production.
6. Txell Miras
The designer from Sabadell founded her own brand in 2004 and in this time has succeeded in giving a distinctive creative seal to her collections. Txell Miras chatted to the students about her experience with Neil Barret, with whom she worked for 13 years. She talked about starting out in business and the obstacles she overcame in order to survive in the complex market of creating a hallmark One final piece of advice :” Either study abroad or work in such a way that you are continually learning, so as to get the best out of every experience.” She says that on the basis of her own experience.
Designers Fashion Experiences has confirmed a second edition for 2017 and here at Gratacós they have our firm support. It is a pleasure to back initiatives like this one !
Back to Baroque
It is curious how every season styles which are totally opposed to each other tend to converge. Hence minimalist silhouettes intermingle with rich details in one and the same fashion-parade or bring new nuances within a collection by a famous designer. One of these trends towards excess is the resurgence of the baroque wave which impregnates the winter fabrics of recent years in a new interpretation of seventeenth- century aristocratic luxury.
Palatial in spirit, in fashion Baroque is visible in the hyper-aesthetic garments, full of details whose function is ornamental. The fabrics are rich in textures, embroidered, with metallized linen and trimming details. Within this trend velvet stands out as the king of fabrics; there are silk brocades, lace and materials with a soft relief which become a pleasure to touch. The prints are inspired by the floral mosaics of tapestries in complex works of art.
In the new baroque the colours are vibrant, preserving that majesticality which is linked to the aristocracy of old. Dark shades such as aubergine, ultramarine or khaki contrast with pale ones such as coral, mustard and turquoise. Pastel colours are newly resurgent in the form of pale pink, baby-blue and sea-green inspired by the dresses of Queen Marie-Antoinette.
This trend finds habitual use in interior decoration, in curtains, cushions, covers and other accessories which transform the home into a palace. On the cat-walk fashion-houses such as Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace or Alexander McQueen frequently hark back to the baroque style.
Here we will leave you with some of our inspirations, such as how our fabrics have become affected by this so evocative trend. You will find more here.
