Cloth, corduroy and wool constitute the ideal trident to face up to the low temperatures. Some people brand them as classics because they can be worn in all seasons, by virtue of their long history within fashion or due to their versatility. What nobody can deny is that now is the moment when these fabrics are shown in their full splendour.
On the catwalks wool can also be glimpsed in winter outfits yet without the slightest loss in style. This natural fabric is present in beautiful coats with a masculine style, double-sided or with the twin buttons of military aesthetic; tailored jackets or cloaks that are in fashion for yet another season, adorning some looks with their innate elegance. This adaptable fabric also proves seductive with other garments such as the unbeatable thick jumpers so suited to these months, clean-cut midi-skirts or dresses with a minimalist look.
How best to wear this fabric? This season wool is to be found in the form of figure-eights, mottled, with thick stitches or in the form of canalé in XXL size. As well it can be worn for its own look, the contrasts joining woollen garments with other diametrically-opposed fabrics such as silk. The top colours this winter are pink in all of its shades, navy-blue and those unbeatable browns.
In Gratacós we also have woollen fabrics which will enable you to add to your wardrobe this warm garment which is so needed in the coming months. Be inspired!
The Winning Trio in Independent Design
They are not everyday designers and each of them maintains his or her differing style within the independent design sector, a cake to be divided up between creators who share the same philosophy: authenticity, character, workmanship, honesty and just some doses of austerity. Txell Miras, Josep Abril y Miriam Ponsa gelled very well in the Rec district of Igualada, where in the same presentation space they defended their creations before the consumers who were visiting the Rec.0 Experimental Stores, a commercial initiative in a temporary format where twice a year fashion companies sell their stock. This casual alliance, together with good relations between the three of them swiftly led towards a robust and motivating project for all three.
Some years ago the experimental shop Project #01 in the district of Le Marais, the celebrated fashion district of Paris, was born in a similar way. The good welcome it received in the French capital was key to its successful move to Barcelona. In a similar way, when NU#2 emerged last year in the Eixample it revitalized local trade with its offering of alternative design, its ethics and aesthetics far away from the traditional franchises and chain-stores that flood the centre of Barcelona.
NU#2 is not a conventional shop and the presentation are reflects the essence of the designs and the personality of its creators. As its name indicates, #NU2 is a reference to nudity and its radical approach is to show the world fashion such as they conceive it, without make-up or cover-up. Situated in a 260m2 former store-house for electrical materials #NU2 recreates the spirit of the original space by preserving its structure and the charm of its old industrial aesthetic as found in the cracks in the walls or faults in the floor. In it Txell Miras, Josep Asbril and Miriam Ponsa exhibit the season’s male and female fashion collections while at the same time housing other designers with a similar attitude and which complement what is on offer, such as handbags by Cristina Corres, shoes by the Mallorcan Pep Monjo, pieces of industrial design by Aparentment or the spectacular metallic furniture of Jonathan Singleton, who was also responsible for the lay-out of the shop-window and for what is hanging in the shop. Nothing is there just by chance.
The space is also often utilized as a multi-purpose hall where events are held which are linked to independent fashion. Recently the influential Catalan trio opened a new shop, #NU3 situated on the creator design floor in Pedralbes Centre. One more reason to confirm that a different form of production and consumption is possible and totally necessary within the current panorama.
Greenery, the color of 2017
Every year one colour is crowned king of the chromatic palette. A shade which dominates, marks and inspires the world of fashion, design, decoration and advertising, amongst other spheres. Its choice is not mere haphazard whim, because behind its nomination there is a powerful universal authority on colour which, via an exhaustive sociological study, finds the shade which will influence the coming twelve months with its communicative power and its capacity to influence moods.
So it is that according to Pantone, an international reference-point for colouring, this year 2017 will be tinged with Greenery green. A vivid and cheerful shade which is bursting forth this year as symbol of a transition from moments of troubled upheaval. Leatrice Eiseman, the executive head of Pantone, refers to this shade as “the tranquility that we yearn for in the midst of the tumultuous social and political panorama that surrounds us. Satisfying our growing desire for rejuvenation and revitalisation, Greenery symbolizes the reconnection with nature which all of us are seeking, something which offers us greater things “. This last affirmation makes reference to our need to connect with the fresh air and to wonder at the physical beauty of the natural world: fields, forests, mountains…a way of escaping our modern life in cities with drab-coloured buildings and roads. In this context Eiseman assures us that Greenery “evokes the days of early Spring, when Nature is revived, restored and renewed.” This shade of green also connects with a healthy life-style, with organic and natural food, re-stating the value of what the earth provides additives-free.
Greenery green contains brush-strokes of yellow and is a fairly unusual shade in the fashion world, although easily recognizable. On the cat-walk companies like Gucci and Balenciaga have included this colour in their Spring-Summer collections. In decoration the light and tranquility of Greenery will creep into the home by revealing it’s so seductive natural exuberance. This shade blends with earthy and wood colours, with the monochromatic ranges where neutral colours predominate. Apart from the presence of plants Greenery will be taking over fabrics, textiles and walls, with infinite decorative possibilities.
You will find our Greenery fabrics inspirational for welcoming in this new period of renewal with a vivid, cheerful and natural colour.
The see through effect
We start 2017 by recalling a festive look by the Barcelona designer Juan Pedro López which we found particularly captivating by virtue of its bold combination of colours and fabrics which create a sensual see-through effect due to super-imposed layers.
This elegant design formed part of the collection “Part XIV” corresponding with the Autumn-Winter season 2013/2014 presented on the parade 080 Barcelona Fashion. According to its designer the inspiration for the look is to be found in the sculptures of Gabo and Pevsner. It is an original design based on those volume and transparencies which envelop the silhouette of a woman. Juan Pedro López uses materials of organza and silk to create this effect of appearances and reflections, where feminine curves are exhalted in garments which fluctuate with the movement of every step.
An ethereal and delicate design which is not at all conventional and which is perfect for these festive days.
Here you will find some of our organza and satin fabrics to inspire you with new designs.
Gratacós stamps its mark in “Velvet”
Gratacós fabrics also shone in the final of “Velvet”. They did so in the successful event “The Happening of the Year”, the party with which the popular period series wished to reward the loyalty of all of its fans. A big date which Antena 3 organised on 14th December in the Círculo de Bellas Artes in Madrid and which offered all manner of activities to the 2.500 plus people who visited the area during the day.
Amongst the activities there stood out one which involves us directly: the exhibition of the winning dresses from the design competitition which “Velvet”put a start to this past 20th September. An initiative by Antena 3, IFEMA – Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, ModaEspaña and Madrid es Moda in order to give an opportunity to young talents and to promote their work on television. The three designs chosen from the competition form part of the first prêt-à-porter collection by Galerías Velvet.
The competition was a success in terms of participation and stood out by the quality of the entries – more than 400 of them – of which 6 finalist designs were selected. These models were put together in the workshop “Al Dedal”, the property of Lola Piña, a company which in 2015 was awarded the Fashion Prize. From the finalist designs eventually 3 winners were selected, by designers Rebeca Jover, Tatiana López Pombo and Juan José Grajera Fuentes, all of whom put together the models with our seasonal fabrics.
To be specific, Rebeca went for a black and cream satin mikado together with a fitted and lined black tulle to complete an elegant evening dress. Tatiana López produced a sophisticated design with red mikado and lining. Finally Juan José Grajera created a design based on maroon satin and wool, lined and with a sheepskin neck. The result: pure distinction.
All the designs sported the label “Made in Spain” and were chosen by a jury of experts from the sector such as Cuca Solana, the director of MBFWM and the designers Modesto Lomba and Hannibal Laguna, amongst others.
Congratulations on the results !
The success of Designers Fashion Experiences
The first edition of the initiative Designers Fashion Experiences is drawing to an end, leaving behind a good taste in the mouth both for the organisers and the participants of the day-sessions, with enriching experiences which have served to strengthen both the professional career and personal life of the designers. “This format has helped participants to understand what are the essential nuts and bolts of the companies, both through positive situations of expansion and innovation and through other negative ones which have only made them stronger”, was the verdict of David Boix, the director of the initiative. A stimulus both for the young people just starting out and for companies such as Gratacós which are actively linked to this so talented industry.
The sessions of Designers’ Fashion Experiences took place last Autumn in Casa Gracia ( Passeig de Gracia 116 ) via 6 inspirational presentations given by Dolores Cortés, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miguel Suay, Jordi Dalmau, Oscarleon and Txell Miras.
Here you will find a résumée of each session:
1. Dolores Cortés
The Spanish company specialising in bathroom fashion set out differing points of view of the fashion industry, covering the family origins of the company from its beginnings until the present day and detailing certain concepts which are linked to the design of the collections. Dolores Cortés left those present with one very clear premise: the need to be faithful to brand values. In this case the company is linked with loyalty, honesty and the family, always bearing in mind the need to adapt to new times.
2. Llamazares y de Delgado
Fabrizio Pérez and Jaime Martínez are the designers of Llamazares y de Delgado, a company based in Barcelona which is tenaciously surviving the continual ups and downs within the sector. The keys to survival are via conscience, self-criticism, financing and relations with suppliers, without losing sight of the criterion of proximity to all processes: design, production, promotion and sales.
3. Miquel Suay
The Valencian designer concentrated specifically on the creative process and how he finds inspiration in his collections by adding valuable advice, such as how to give shape to an idea and where to source and research in order to survive and prosper day to day as a design professional. Creativity alone is never sufficient in order to be successful in the sector. Rather it must always be accompanied by good business-practice, applying market strategies.
4. Jordi Dalmau
The designer of bridal fashion explained to those present his motive for setting up as a brand, the family support in creating an artistic partnership, the limits that he continually crosses in order to remain innovative in the bridal-wear market. He emphasised the need for uniqueness in every design as a symbol of identity. One piece of advice remained imprinted on the students: “Giving up the fight means giving up everything.” He certainly will not throw in the towel.
5. Oscarleon
A graduate in design, pattern-making, stylism and image consultancy, the designer created his own collection in 1996 and since then has never stopped working for his own brand, an activity that he combines with the design of collections for other companies. In the session the designer took the opportunity to chat with participants about their own beginnings, making reference to the transformation of fabrics, financing and the balance betwen creation and production.
6. Txell Miras
The designer from Sabadell founded her own brand in 2004 and in this time has succeeded in giving a distinctive creative seal to her collections. Txell Miras chatted to the students about her experience with Neil Barret, with whom she worked for 13 years. She talked about starting out in business and the obstacles she overcame in order to survive in the complex market of creating a hallmark One final piece of advice :” Either study abroad or work in such a way that you are continually learning, so as to get the best out of every experience.” She says that on the basis of her own experience.
Designers Fashion Experiences has confirmed a second edition for 2017 and here at Gratacós they have our firm support. It is a pleasure to back initiatives like this one !
Back to Baroque
It is curious how every season styles which are totally opposed to each other tend to converge. Hence minimalist silhouettes intermingle with rich details in one and the same fashion-parade or bring new nuances within a collection by a famous designer. One of these trends towards excess is the resurgence of the baroque wave which impregnates the winter fabrics of recent years in a new interpretation of seventeenth- century aristocratic luxury.
Palatial in spirit, in fashion Baroque is visible in the hyper-aesthetic garments, full of details whose function is ornamental. The fabrics are rich in textures, embroidered, with metallized linen and trimming details. Within this trend velvet stands out as the king of fabrics; there are silk brocades, lace and materials with a soft relief which become a pleasure to touch. The prints are inspired by the floral mosaics of tapestries in complex works of art.
In the new baroque the colours are vibrant, preserving that majesticality which is linked to the aristocracy of old. Dark shades such as aubergine, ultramarine or khaki contrast with pale ones such as coral, mustard and turquoise. Pastel colours are newly resurgent in the form of pale pink, baby-blue and sea-green inspired by the dresses of Queen Marie-Antoinette.
This trend finds habitual use in interior decoration, in curtains, cushions, covers and other accessories which transform the home into a palace. On the cat-walk fashion-houses such as Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace or Alexander McQueen frequently hark back to the baroque style.
Here we will leave you with some of our inspirations, such as how our fabrics have become affected by this so evocative trend. You will find more here.
Book of Trends, Winter 2017
How are trends created ? What are the inspirations that frame them? What fabrics, materials, prints and colours define them? As she has done every season Ursula Uria, head of the prestigious Spanish trends research agency Nelly Rodi Lab unveiled these questions in a further day’s programme entitled “Book of Trends” organised this past 12th December and which took place in Gratacós ‘s training hall. It was an enlightening experience directed at design students and professionals.
On this occasion trends were revealed as to what will be worn next winter 2017, taking into account a new sociological panorama which is affecting the consumption of fashion. In this context the following factors are of influence:
⦁ Consumers are increasingly divided into two categories, which occasionally merge with each other: Binge consumers who buy products on impulse, in quantity and primarily through the internet. Or Sober consumers with more rational consumer- habits, choosing quality products and personalised experiences.
⦁ The Generation Post Age or Generation Z (those born after 1992) is beginning to have an acquisitive power which marks out new consumer-habits. These consumers spend their money on technology, music and travel.
⦁ Triumph of individuality, differentiation and personalisation. There is a global macro-trend which consists of distancing oneself from other consumers. This is applied in the designs, in the models chosen on the cat-walks – they don’t follow the traditional canons of beauty – and in the products, where care is lavished right down to the final detail. In this wave of fashion what counts is to maintain one’s identity. In this context musicians are the new icons of fashion.
Taking these premises into account, in the next Autumn-Winter season 2017 / 2018 four trends will therefore be of influence in fashion: Soul, Blurred, East Side and Austerity.
⦁ Soul
A trend based on excess and given its mongrel quality, inspired by disco music, funk, hip hop and soul of the seventies.
Icons: Influence of singers like Diana Ross, The Jackson Five, Bruno Mars, the series Empire, exotic models such as Lineisy Montero, the districts of Brooklyn or Harlem in New York and the continent of Africa.
Silhouettes : Triumph of contrasts, excesses and mixtures. Wearing of mix and match and bling bling.
Colours: Browns, Oranges, Lemons, glaring Blues and Violets. Vibrant and very contrasting colours which are also applied by cosmetics.
Prints:Return of graphic motifs with a retro aesthetic, exotic prints, brightly coloured jacquards and impossible mixtures.
Fabrics: Wearing of glitter, patent leather, velvet and lurex with shiny weaving.
http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/51109-002.html
⦁ Blurred
A minimalist trend inspired by melancholy and closely linked to the emotions.
Icons: The film The Danish Girl, the actress Diane Keaton, the painter Egon Schiele, the figure of the British dandy, the entrepreneur Ben Gorham or the series Life in Squares.
Silhouettes: Garments that are a fusion of male and female codes. Clothes are worn loose-fitting and relaxed. Wearing of suits and a special emphasis on complements where care is given right down to the last detail.
Colours: Greys, cold Pinks, Violets and pale Blues.
Prints: The diplomatic line, tweed, pictures or prints of birds.
Fabrics: Wearing of velvet, silk, wool or flannel.
http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/280-003.html
⦁ East Side
A popular, young trend inspired by the working- classes, ring-road suburbs and large Soviet cities. It is the evolution of sports fashion.
Icons: Communism, the films Billy Eliot, Trainspotting or The Full Monty, beer, fast food, muesli, homewear clothing or the brand Vetements.
Silhouettes: Warm colours such as Oranges and Reds that are reminiscent of beer and ketchup.
Prints: The Soviet stamp and geometric motifs.
Fabrics: Textures in patent leather, cotton, wool and plush fabric.
http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/61079-006.html
⦁ Austerity
A minimalist trend inspired by the Amberes School and by Japanese design.
Icons: The company Muji, sculpture, theatre, Belgian fashion, the designers Yohji Yamamoto and Ise Miyake, tea, water-colours, handmade, the Amish and natural cosmetics.
Silhouettes:Wearing of straight and loose garments, deconstructed silhouettes, superimpositions, architectural patterns and strategic volumes. Search for essence and detail is transferred to collars and cuffs.
Colours: False dark colours such as shadows, inks, dark denim, Wasabi green, neutrals, black and white.
Gold on show
Red is the colour of Christmas, although it shares the lead with gold, symbol of excess, luxury and the glamour of this festive season which is just around the corner. At this time of celebrations its dazzling tonality really takes hold of dressing-rooms for evening events.
Now is the moment to take out of the wardrobe all those most luxurious clothes bathed in metallic shades rich in textures that add volume to looks. Mesh fabrics, metallic appliqués, sequins, lurex garments, fringes, jewelled details and accessories that in themselves are a treasure.
On the catwalks gold is the protagonist in the sumptuous woven dresses by Marchesa or in the rococo style coats which Prada presents with such masterly workmanship. Likewise in garments depicting geometric mosaics such as those exhibited in the looks by Balenciaga and other festive uniforms full of sparkle which recalls the flappers of the twenties, such as the delicate dresses by Valentino. The nuance of rock is added by Saint Laurent with jackets and trousers which pay tribute to the musical legends of the seventies or by Isabel Marant and Roberto Cavalli who pay homage to disco fever with garments that are all sparkle and dazzle.
The colour of luxury also has its limits and its protagonism should come in small doses if the result is not to be excessive. Hence gold combines perfectly with neutral colours such as brown, polka dots or pale pink. Black lends it a nuance of elegance and this season it is no surprise to see it allied with silver, its metallic adversary. Notwithstanding, care must be taken with the mix if it is not to descend into vulgarity.
Where gold has most presence is in jewelry and in small complements. For a glamorous touch it wouldn’t be going too far if one opted for key accessories such as spectacular earrings or a neat bracelet, shoes with gold heels, a shiny belt or a jewelry-type bag that would be the focal-point of all gazes.
Gold is also inspirational for us and at Gratacós you will be able to find a varied selection of fabrics which enable you to shine in your own light. Here are some of them.
Christmas Markets
The Christmas season has already begun and the traditional markets are marking the December diary with attractive offers linked to fashion, art and gastronomy, with budgets for all pockets. Here are some of the recommended ones on offer…
Festivalet
Festivalet is one of the biggest independent design fairs where one can find more than 100 references of handicraft and design brands. Among the new features are included the French ceramics of Dodo Toucan, dolls by Lauvely, objects by Living Things or the unusual photographic studies of Martí Andiñach, inspired by the past. In this ninth edition there will also be room for materials, publications, food products and an area dedicated to businesses within the sector.
When ? 10th and 11th December.
Where ? Barcelona Maritime Museum
All Those Food Market
The festival of food suppliers adds new ingredients to its Christmas edition without abandoning its innovative formula : bringing together independent culinary creators in an excellent combination of market-producers and atop-quality street food-festival for locals. New additions to this fourth edition will be live music, teaching-workshops and countless ideas of presents to give to cooking enthusiasts.
When ? 10th and 11th December
Where ? Barcelona Seminarion Conciliar
Fantàstic Handmade Market 2016
A meeting-point which brings together designers and craft-workers who sell their products via the web-site Etsy. In this space you will find up to 40 stalls dedicated to fashion, jewelry and complements as well as small decorative articles, art and toys. There are also areas selling materials for making products, DIY work-shops and a food area for when hunger bites.
When ? 17th and 18th December
Where ? Fundació Enric Miralles
DesignMarket 2016
For the fifth year running Barcelona Design Hub is welcoming in unbeatable surroundings the talent and the creations of city-based designers and artists. The creations of the participants in this market are of outstanding quality and this year a new feature has been that all the associations of FAD have been responsible for selecting participants. Gift articles, lighting, graphic design, illustration or handicrafts…always based on the premise of good design.
When ? 17th and 18th December
Where ? Barcelona Design Hub
