The colour of blood, passion, life and temptation is in fashion once again and adds some life to more neutral or dull shades. This season, fabrics are being tinged by the Aurora Red tone –one of the 2016 colours according to Pantone. This powerful shade is here to outdo the rest of the colours creating a genuine visual shock. A sensual, daring and warm colour that looks good on all skin types and that immediately gets pulses racing.
The catwalks have spoken and the Autumn-Winter 2016/2017 proposals reflect an array of red tones that go from crimson to scarlet. Brands such as Haider Ackermann, Akris and Derek Lam have gone for its most dazzling version. Louis Vuitton, Alberta Ferreti and DKNY reformulate garments for everyday wear using this Aurora Red tone as the main theme. Even the most eccentric Moschino designs contain this colour in its most trash models. The most sensual option of this colour can be seen in brands such as Blumarine, Gucci and Saint Laurent with textures that go from sophisticated velvet to romantic lace.
And, how to you match it up?
Vibrant and dynamic, the Aurora red stands out as it is and it is always recommendable to use it with neutral tones that do not steal its limelight. For example, greys soften the red out and add a sophisticated touch. Beige tones add a touch of warmth and elegance. Nevertheless there is always an attention grabbing combination that never goes out of fashion: the powerful pair black and white. If you do decide on this, better in small doses.
Gratacós falls for the passion of maroon and offers various fabrics ranging from floral jacquards to graphic prints. You can choose the option that most excites you!
What colours will be in Fashion in summer 2018? Who decides the trends? How will they be applied?
All these questions, aswell as many others, will be resolved in the The Color Community, a project we have supported since the beginning. This informative initiative is organized twice a year by three creative professionals that share interests and sensations towards the world of colour and design and seek to be a guide for inspiration for those engaged in this sector. The organizers are Eva Muñoz, designer and specialist in Color & Trim; Pere Ortega, architect in Saeta Estudi and Rosa Pujol, fabric and colour stylist in Gratacós. In this seventh edition, organized in the old Damm factory in Barcelona, around five hundred people attended to hear about the latest chromatic trends for 2018. The context of colour, material and its applications were some of the topics discussed at the conference.
The concept of colours for the Spring-Summer 2018 season goes by the name “Mirages”. This word describes the optical illusion created by the complete reflection of light and which connects to several current concepts that can be seen in the fashion industry.
The concept is structured around 4 colour ranges:
1. Please Touch!
It groups together a tactile and sensitive range that invites us to experiment, touch and use.
2. 2&3
This range is about geometric simplicity. By working the bicolour and tricolor combinations in a cheerful, clean and flat proposal with reminiscences of sport.
3. Fluid Signs
A defined and clear range with influence of liquids that dilute. Included in this range is a touch of folk, denim and floral prints. Nature and food are the motor of its inspiration.
4. Polyphonic
This is the range that is closest to the concept of mirages and refers to the harmony of colours to be developed in monochrome or mixed with any shade of other ranges. Metallic colours gain importance.
If it shines it is more and better. This could be the slogan for one of the most daring trends this Autumn: metallic colours. Fabrics and materials with their own shine such as lurex or lame are the order of the day and are back in the limelight this season with strong influences of the 80’s and nostalgic disco. So, with the cold coming, we can retrieve our sparkling garments from the wardrobe and mix them with more basic clothes in neutral tones, creating impact attire. Pleated midi skirts, tight trousers, “Old Hollywood” style dresses with suggestive cleavages or blazers with a clear nod to glam rock.
Lamé is a hybrid fabric that contains metallic material and a filler-cloth such as nylon or polyester. These fabrics are woven together to create a shiny and light material. Traditionally lame was used in artistic garments such as cinema, theatre or dance costumes and worn on special occasions to be remembered. Used in tops, skirts or dresses and also as decoration in accessories and evening wear. Fashions pass and trends vary. Now, this daring fabric is no longer just for the Christmas season, but can be seen on the most striking everyday outfits. The bling bling style invades the high street.
In terms of colour, lame fabric usually comes in gold or silver, although this season copper, moss green and dark blue tones have also been seen on the catwalk. To get an idea of how to combine these -at first glance difficult fabrics-, you just need to check out the latest offerings of the luxury brands such as Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana or Saint Laurent.
In Gratacós we also have articles with lamé. Take a look and conjure up your metallic garment to sparkle up any occasion. There is no excuse not to!
Xevi Fernández made his personal mark in the last edition of the Samsung Ego catwalk show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid. Something which is very difficult given the creative proposals that are exhibited in each show. The Empordà designer, who trained in Barcelona, chose once again a futuristic theme as his focus point in a masculine and feminine collection that was both contemporary and 100% wearable.
Under the name of “Delay”, the Spring-Summer 2017 collection is inspired in the most common errors of this digital age –glitches, gliasing, bugs – that upon reading form erroneous figures or images due to files wrongly coded or damaged. Xevi Fernández bases himself on this paradox and reflects these errors in textures, fabrics and prints, depriving them of their negative connotations and showing their constructive and generating potential.
It is precisely in this collection that there has been exceptional work gone into the textures and different materials that become distorted using different techniques. Latex is presented pleated, the leather is altered using moulds that deform it, neoprene is printed on and the tulle acquires more volume by using various layers. The designer has used Gratacós fabrics to elaborate some of the looks exhibited on the Madrid catwalk show for original young talents.
In Delay, the colours are inspired also in the glicht, even as a print, pastel tones such as yellow, pink and pale blue mix together with lilac and black. Shapes range from narrow garments that completely show off the figure to oversize clothes such as kimonos or parkas, aswell as straight cut A-Line style garments.
As a final touch to the show, the all-round burlesque artist Vinila von Bismark was in charge of opening and closing the show with two of the most representative looks of the collection.
This is the second edition of the Samsung Ego show that Xevi Fernández has participated in following his debut with “The Last Future”. A promising creator that will go far. In Gratacós we will keep a close eye on him.
It is practically impossible to list the amount of cultural activities that take place every month in a quality City such as Barcelona that has a divulging spirit and common interest. Amongst the interesting proposals, we want to make reference to one that will seduce those linked to photography, fashion and design. Regardless of whether they are professionals or enthusiasts in these fields.
For the last few weeks, the Palau Robert has been host to the exhibition 80 portraits by the Galician born photographer Manuel Outumuro, which includes distinguished figures of the Barcelona society. Actors such as Carme Elias, Eduard Fernàndez or Jordi Mollà; comedians such as the Tricicle, architects such as Òscar Tusquets and Beth Galí, writers like Eduardo Mendoza and Rosa Regàs or models including Martina Klein and Verónica Blume, amongst others. This new edition by the brilliant photographer plays tribute to the great masters of painting and also film legends, with clear aesthetic references in every one of his portraits. In this new exhibition, Outumuro displays his speciality that is creativity in the portrait . “It is a field that is open to all types of innovations and freedom” he assures. His aim is also for the photography to communicate something special to the spectators, “because if the image is good it gives good vibes to many people” he explains. It is not the first time that Outumuros work has been on show in the Palau Robert. In 2004, the renowned artist exhibited «La vitrina del fotógrafo» (the photographers´window) a compilation of his photographs and archive material: polaroids, contacts, lab tests….
Manuel Outumuro was born in 1949 in A Merca (Ourense) and he moved to Barcelona when he was young. He studied in the Massana school as a graphic designer. He worked as an art director but it was not until he was 40 years old did he teach himself the art of photography. Since then, Outumuro has been working continually with the big fashion magazines and the head of the main press and media. His work has also been seen in various publications, books and individual and collective exhibitions.
From here in Gratacós, we want to share the talent of Outumuro and we encourage you to attend his latest eclectic display that honours the know how of this Galician artist.
Jueves 29 septiembre 2016
Juan Gratacós (father) has just turned 80. He represents the second generation of the family business that was begun by his parents: Antonio and Josefina. Beyond continuing the tradition, he has made sure-with effort and perseverance – that Gratacós moves forward in the right direction with the commitment of the new generations of the family that maintain afloat this iconic shop, leader in fabrics in Spain.
We interviewed Juan briefly on his birthday to offer him symbolically our sincere congratulations.
What legacy did you inherit from your father, Antonio Gratacós and what have you transmitted to your son?
I inherited from my father his perseverance in work and I learnt how to form a friendly team to sustain the business. I have endeavored to transmit this ambition to my children: both those working in Gratacós and also out.
What is left from the essence of your beginnings in the current Gratacós?
The company is changing but the common denominator is the goal to be close to the customer offering fashion alternatives that the present moment requires.
“The company is changing but the common denominator is the goal to be close to the customer”
How do you think the company is currently positioned?
This truly remains unknown because the customers decide. On our part, we put all the effort possible into offering the latest creations and position ourselves at the top.
Why is it important to maintain afloat family businesses?
Unity, that is decisive. In everything, all the workforce in the same direction, even if it binds different characters, but the purpose is the same: UNITY.
“Unity is the most important”
Tradition, know-how, compromise with the family and the customers…What other traits does Gratacós have that strengthen their position on the market?
Training, curiosity and passion for the job.
How do you see the future of the company? Are you proud of your career?
At the present time, I take pride in the managers of the company: my son Juan and my nephew Antonio.
Thank you for sparing us your time Juan and from all the team we wish you a happy birthday.
Jueves 22 septiembre 2016
José María García has spent the last 4 years in charge of his female fashion brand, designing dresses and suits for special occasions in his workshop in Barcelona. Ze Garcia is synonymous of affordable haute couture for the modern, sensual and elegant woman. Each and every garment is made to measure, taking into account the style, personality and silhouette of the customer. Ze Garcia must have something special considering all the fashion instagrammers follow him. Including Dulceida who has confided her trust in the young Catalan designer and given him the task of designing her wedding dress. An online phenomenon that has caused a lot of sensation. Beyond this passing boom, Jose María García presses forward with his work at a steady pace and with very clear ideas…
Did you expect to be a dying sensation with the wedding designs for Dulceida? The social networks are still raving on about it….
These past few days have been crazy and we did not expect this media coverage. The number of my followers has increased drastically. I’d already worked with Dulceida in the past with other designs for different events she had attended, but it is true that the wedding has been a complete boom.
The big wedding brands such as Pronovias or Rosa Clará were chasing after the famous dress…
I know, I know. However, Aida and I are friends and she has always trusted me; both as a designer and as a friend. I have been working with her for many years and I know her tastes and her measurements and I know I won’t let her down. It was a great pleasure for me to be given the the responsability of designing her two wedding dresses and also her girlfriend Albas´. This has allowed me to do three styles: one princess style dress with 40 metres of tulle, another more bohemian one like what is in fashion now and the third a tailored suit with a V-neck body which is what Im most used to doing.
«Dulceida has given me the responsability of designing her wedding dresses»
This has allowed you to experiment with a variety of styles….
Exactly! For me, the most important part of this experience has been that I have not been pigeon-holed into one concrete style, but I’ve been able to adapt the style to each girl.
With so many admirers, have the complements or criticisms affected you?
Its been fine, because my main worry was if the dresses were made up correctly at a technical level and also the brides’ expectations. Obviously everyone has different tastes so there will be people who like them alot and others who do not.
The fabric for the wedding dresses was bought from Gratacós, but its true that you often confide in us…
I’ve confided in you for a long time now. The quality of fabrics in your shop is the best. It is true that I vary where I buy my fabrics from, but you have always been a reference for me. When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós.
«When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós»
How did you start out in the design world? You mentioned that you were born with it in your blood….
I always wanted to be a designer and I was sure of this ever since I was little. I started sewing classes at 12 and I later realized I needed to learn the trade so I began studing at the Technical Art Fashion School in the Ramon LLul University in Barcelona. When I finished my studies, I began working for Emporio Armani in charge of visual image – shop window displays and styles. After working with several brands, I decided to begin my own.
How do you differentiate yourself from your competition?
The designers approach, personal taste and the things you bet on are important. Every brand has its creators signature and in ZE García its me myself.
What do you offer your customer?
I always attend to them. In fact, I always do this; I assist more than I design. Nowadays it is more important to know how to sell than what to sell.
«Its more important to assist than design»
How do you work in Ze García?
Always upon request. The customer comes to our showroom in C/Tuset and there they can take a look at our best selling garments that are on show. These are generally single garments rather than made up dresses, because the type of customer who comes to us has many events, so what we aim to do as a brand is that from one dress we can do various options.
What type of customers do you have?
A typical customer is a young attractive girl from 20 to 35 years old. Im really lucky!- he says smiling.
Which other celebrities have worn your designs?
The majority of fashion instagrammers such as Belén Hostalet or Inés Arroyo and actresses such as
Thaïs Blume who came here to Gratacós. Im quite selective when it comes to actresses and I always decide who I want to wear my designs.
What challenges lay ahead for the upcoming years?
At the moment, stay as I am at a sure and steady pace. My brand has been running for 4 years (he is now 28 years old) and I want to mature as a designer with it. I enjoy everything a lot more if things just happen without planning.
Questionnaire Gratacós
An essential garment… For a girl, a Vneck
A fetish fabric… Something that is shiny and conjures up the night
A colour you could not live without.. Black and red
A designer you admire… Tom Ford. I find him good in design and also at selling
An infallible style rule… A masculine-feminine mix
Your preferred space in Barcelona… I know so many different places that right now I cannot answer
A piece of advice for those starting out… Focus on what you want to do
Your leitmotif… Slowly but surely
Martes 20 septiembre 2016
They call it the new black. Enigmatic and evocative at the same time. Associated with the night and deep waters. Back in the chromatic winter palette is the colour blue to portray its strength and functionality beyond the sobriety it has us used to.
This colour was already going strong last summer, taking over complete looks in its darkest versions. Indications suggest that it will present in our wardrobe for another season, especially in accessories.
Designers in large luxury fashion brands have used blue to add colour to new autumn garments. Masculine style coats, velvet jackets-the star fabric of the season – baby doll dresses or amazing tops for the most sophisticated of nights out. Tommy Hilfigers casual sailor style, the 80s influence in Balenciaga, the Victorian influence in Ralph Lauren or Prada´s post war muses are some examples of how each creator has set a trend using the extensive palette of dark blue. From ultramarine to lapis lazuli, a tone with is particularly inspiring this season with a batch of fabrics so you can design winter clothes.
Here we leave you with our moodboard with a selection of our best fabrics for you to get some inspiration:http://www.gratacos.com/shoponline/en/inspiracion/lapislazuli
Tommy Hilfiger
Tommy Hilfiger
Roberto Cavalli
Phillip Lim
H&M Studio
Dior
Balenciaga
Prada
Ralph Lauren
Versace
Jueves 15 septiembre 2016
A new initiative has been launched for the design sector in Cataluña which aims to interchange synergies through didactical meetings. It’s called Designers Fashion Experiences and consists of monthly meetings between designers, professionals and renowned celebrities of the sector both on a national and international level. It is an opportunity for fashion students to learn the business from different perspectives and enhance their professional career. An incentive for the students to pursue their careers with advice and new points of view through the voice of experience from those who have succeeded in the fashion industry.
In the 4th trimester of 2016, there will be 6 presentations carried out by the following designers: Dolores Cortés in swimwear, Llamazares y de Delgado, Miquel Suay, Jordi Dalmau in bridal fashion, Oscarleon and Txell Miras. The conferences will take place in Casa Gracia, situated in Passeig de Gràcia, 116. This multiplural space symbolizes a world of travels, comparable to the path the designers have to take to get to know the fashion world. Creativity, colour, composition, innovation and hidden textures amongst different cultures and destinations.
This space is ideal to transmit the experiences of the designers, explaining the details of the smallest and greatest moments, and sharing their experiences with the students who in the future will become fashion creators, nourishing a new generation of this creative industry.
Gratacós supports Designers Fashion Experiences. As a family business dedicated to textile and linked to established creators and new talents, every year we promote new initiatives associated with training and development of fashion students.
The first conference will take place the upcoming 28th September 15, 2016 and will last until December. The aim is to repeat the experience a second time round in 2017.
Jueves 08 septiembre 2016
How do we captivate the soul of an interior designer? In a concept store that reflects its spirit, style and personality. Ultimately, his essence.
Chilean born Jaime Beriestain has achieved it in a shop and a café that have consolidated themselves as emblems in Barcelona. Two warm cosmopolitan spaces that transmit their personal signature. Art, music, interior design, cuisine, flowers, books and aromas come together on these premises. Here, the renowned interior designer shares his passions with his visitors; anecdotes from his trips, conversations about art and music or simply the pleasure of having a drink together. Not for nothing he considers it like his own home. “Here I have on display everything that I would like to have in my own home, but don’t have space. I love welcoming people and everything that it involves: thinking of the menu, going to the market, preparing the table, choosing the tableware, the flowers, the music” assures Beriestain.
Since opening in 2013, Beriestain´s emblematic shop has become a mandatory visit in the City. This 500m2 multipurpose space is becoming increasingly popular and combines a café-restaurant, a cocktail bar, a concept store and a florist.
The Concept Store dedicated to home design encapsulates Jaime Beriestains’ electic tastes. There, we can find furniture and vintage objects together with other more contemporary ones under one harmonious and aesthetical space. There are also handmade objects, especially crockery and collections designed by him himself in rugs, cushions, stationery, document holders and bamboo furniture. “Each concept store shows the spirit of its creator. Mine is the extension of my wishes, everything that I like and that excites me” he explains.
In this multi space, we can also find the interior designers’ Café and Showroom that is located in a sophisticated surrounding that oozes culture. Works of art from his private collection hang on the wall and photographs of his favourite artists such as Peter Halley, Jason Martin or Biosco Sodi, amongst others. Being the good host and gourmet that he is, Berestain also offers his diners traditional cuisines specials, profound tastes that combine with first quality wines and beers. For those who love something sweet, Beriestain also includes an extensive menu of homemade desserts such as chocolate Spheres, the Jaime cake or his famous Cookies.
In short, Jaime Beriestain has come up with a versatile made to measure space, a second home to share his tastes with all the people of Barcelona and make them feel like they are at home. Gratacós completely recommends this place both for its aesthetics and ethics. Have you not visited it yet?