In its eagerness to support local talent and maintain synergies, Gratac贸s has teamed up wth the designer and illustrator Lara Costafreda. This professional in watercolours lives in Barcelona and is very linked with fashion. This year, the young artist has been given the task of designing the pattern on our tote bag, coinciding with the close relationship that exists between illustration and fashion and the rise of this versatile professional who studied in Barcelona, London (Central Satin Martins) and Rio de Janeiro. This has been an enriching experience for Lara Costafreda too. 鈥Designing this bag has been like a nostalgic trip to the past鈥 she explains. Back then, the illustrator studied design in the BAU school in Barcelona and never missed any of the Gratac贸s news. 鈥I remember spending many afternoons in the shop looking and touching the new fabrics鈥 she claims.
Do you still not know who is Lara Costafreda?
Lara Costafreda is unbridled creativity and her multidisciplinary talent is already renowned in the fashion industry Included in her portfolio are various first hand projects with Herm猫s, Cartier and Carolina Herrera. Also magazines such as Elle, Marie Claire and Glamour, or publishers such as Planeta and Gustavo Gili, specialists in design.
Lara Costafredos style is easily recognized. Flowery patterns, luxuriant plants, romantic ornaments and ethereal muses that ingeniously decorate her work and take us to a dreamy universe with surrealist tinges inspired in the Mediterranean.
This year, the designs made by the young illustrator have been used to decorate shoes made by the brand Arrels Barcelona, Joid鈥檃rt jewellry and the book 鈥淏reve Historia de la Moda鈥 by Gustavo Gili.
Lara is constantly receiving work offers and next year is preparing her own publication. We will look out for it. ..
Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco are the creators of Comillo de Morsa, one of the most sought after independent labels inside 鈥渕ade in BCN鈥 design. The brand, born in 2010, marked a turning point at the fashion show EGO Cibeles Madrid. It led them to exhibit their creations at the Paris show 鈥淲ho鈥檚 Next鈥 aswell as other significant achievements. This marks the start of a slow but steady international expansion as now they are concentrating on consolidating their work within Spain. Colmillo de Morsa has its own shop in the unique neighbourhood of Gracia, but is gaining presence in other designer spaces. It must be for a reason鈥
Your brand name is surprising. How did you come up with it?
Elisabet- Our name is a reflection of the concept of beauty. The tusk is a reference to ivory, a precious and valuable material. If it comes from the walrus it adds a more grotesque tone. We like the symbiosis of ideas because it is a way of expressing that beauty comes in many ways and can be found in the most unlikely of places. It all depends on who is looking at it and what they can find.
How has Colmillo de Morsa changed since your first catwalk show in Madrid? How have you evolved?
Javier- The essence is still there. We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles. Obviously there has been changes in structure because we have expanded and we adapt to the customer, but our way of thinking and approach to the brand is the same.
鈥淲e have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles鈥
What is this essence you refer to?
Elisabet- In each collection we look for timeless models, checking patterns and key garments with classic cuts. In terms of fabrics, we like to work with silk, cotton, cashmere鈥e also have a second line made up of basic garments with a more casual touch for day to day wear. Everyone looks for comfort and a carefree style.
So, the creativity is present but you listen to the customer鈥檚 needs鈥.
Javier- Exactly, creativity and design remain intact. We have simply expanded our criteria and offer a more diversified product but always within the same parametres.
Really, and what are those?
Javier- Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme. The clothes are made up responsibly here in the local workshop using environmentally-friendly materials. The customers confide in us because they now we offer design with quality.
鈥淥ur fashion is quite wearable without being extreme鈥
That is the importance of finding your own personality within a saturated market鈥
Javier- Exactly. In Colmillo de Morsa we do not get carried away by trends. It is something we are very clear about and we like to do our own thing.
Elisabet- As we don鈥檛 compete with the fast fashion it seems pointless to be lagging behind market trends. What we strive to do is to make our product following our design and quality rules.
What role does Gratac贸s play in the creative process?
Elisabet- Firstly, it gives us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material that will achieve amazing results. Also, the huge variety of products they offer. In Gratac贸s we can buy all types of silks, georgette, organza鈥lso the jacquards when we are looking for a something special for the most detailed garments in the collection.
鈥淕ratac贸s give us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material鈥
Local brand with international expansion. Where are you heading?
Elisabet- Now we are in a transitional phase. It is true that a few years ago, we had international presence at fairs where we publicized our product, gained new customers and we sold in Singapure, Dubia, United States鈥.The problem in the end was that by wanting to do so much, it limited our day to day because bear in mind we were a small team and we take of practically everything. Now we have an agent who looks after the international sales but we are concentrating more on the national market.
What are your goals for 2017?
Javier- Now Julia- Elisabet鈥檚 daughter-is with us, we want to concentrate more than ever on our shop. Even so, we are always on the lookout for new spaces to expand our workshop and we make new contacts to supply clothes to designer shops. We do not rule out the possibility of opening a new shop, but we will see.
Would you like Julia to be a designer?
Elisabet- Not at the moment 鈥 she laughs 鈥 she can decide herself when she is older鈥
The Gratac贸s questionnaire鈥
Your essential garment 鈥 A printed shirt
A fetish fabric鈥 Any type of silk
A colour you would never forgo鈥 Black
The designer you admirer鈥 Sarah Burton (Javier) and Jil Sander (Elisabet)
An infallible style rule鈥 Always have at hand a good coat or an oversized shirt
Your favourite space in Barcelona鈥 The Korean barbeque Yalujiang situated in Roger de Flor
A piece of advice for designers starting up鈥 They should be clear on the what, where and for whom before launching
Your 鈥渓eitmotif鈥 鈥 Do what you like
080 Barcelona Fashion is back. From the 27th June to the 1st July, this Catalan catwalk show will exhibit the Spring-Summer 2017 collections of around 30 native brands. These include textile brands, dedicated designers and new talents. The objective of this event is to consolidate Catalu帽a as a benchmark for design in all its variations 鈥 creation, production, training and promotion and thus contribute to the internationalization of the sector.
The catwalk shows of this 18th edition will take place in Catalonia`s National Physical Education Institute based in the Olympic Ring on Montjuic. It is here where the training and culture values of sport that define the Catalan capital are reflected. This edition aims to 鈥済et Catalan fashion into shape鈥 in a more festive environment and in a more participatory way.
As specialists in fashion, Gratac贸s have always worked side by side with designers, offering them their premises for enquiries, consulting and commercialization of fabrics that will be used to make the garments of the new season. In this edition of the Catalan catwalk show, Brain & Beast and Samuel Alarc贸n are two of the brands that have confided their trust in us.
Brain & Beast
This transgressive brand was created by 脕ngel Vilda in Barcelona in 2010. From the very beginning, his collections do not leave anyone indifferent. Messages, guessing games, juxtapositions of fabrics鈥.Each season his garments emphasize the pop culture with agender silhouettes where sophistication goes hand in hand with comfort together with high dosis of humour.
Samuel Alarc贸n
This new design talent started out in the 080 Barcelona Fashion after receiving the Creativity Award at the Modafad show 鈥 the platform for the young up and coming. He set the bar high. Born in the Canary Islands but now based in Barcelona, Samuel Alarc贸n specializes in tricot, which he uses to experiment and innovate to achieve some surprising results. He participates again in the Catalan catwalk show with his collection 鈥楨timolog铆a del Yo鈥.
Gratac贸s will attend both shows to support the designers who have confided in us. We are very much looking forward to seeing their new collections. Good luck!
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid was a big success ! Gratac贸s was present at the collections of聽 Amaya Arzuaga, Andr茅s Sard谩, ANGEL SCHLESSER, Francis Montesinos, Teresa Helbig y THE 2ND SKIN CO.
Crepe Verde en la colecci贸n de Amaya Arzuaga
Tul Paillettes Oro en la colecci贸n de Andr茅s Sard谩
聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽Fantas铆a Paillete Oro en la colecci贸n de Andr茅s Sard谩聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽
Rayas Paillettes en la colecci贸n de 脕ngel Schlesser
聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽 Crepe Naranja para Amaya Arzuaga
Mikado Blanco en la colecci贸n de THE 2ND SKIN CO.
Jacquard Lame Rojo para la colecci贸n de 脕ngel Schlesser
Paillettes de Rayas en la colecci贸n de Francis Montesinos聽
Patinado Plomo para la colecci贸n de Francis Montesinos聽
Sat茅n Seda Verde Agua para la colecci贸n de 脕ngel Schlesser聽
Paillettes Rayas para Francis Montesinos聽
Tul Bordado de flores en la colecci贸n de Francis Montesinos聽
Tul piel para la colecci贸n de Amaya Arzuaga聽
Georgette Ocre para la colecci贸n de Teresa Helbig聽
Un Tul Bordado de flores para Francis Montesinos聽
Saten Seda Nude para THE 2ND SKIN CO.聽
Saten Seda en Amarillo para THE 2ND SKIN CO.聽