El diseñador de moda y director artístico de la muestra, Jean Paul Gaultier, en CaixaForum Barcelona.

Jean Paul Gaultier is the enfant terrible of fashion in his own right. Although he is no longer creatively spearheading his namesake brand, now spearheaded by his successor Olivier Rousteing, Gaultier will always be Gaultier. A self taught genius. Transgressive and irreverent, but from his kind facet. A free verse of fashion that he revolutionized in the 70s, 80s and 90s exalting difference, celebrating diversity, breaking stereotypes and exploring the beauty of the margins. Gaultier was not interested in the classic or the conventional, but he did investigate how he could empower the women of his time through clothing. His designs were the perfect armor for a new generation that wanted to express their strength, dynamism and freedom through clothing. One of Gaultier’s icons, the pointed corset worn by Madonna on the ‘Blonde Ambition’ world tour in 1990 was created thanks to the influence exerted by the woman who has most inspired him: his grandmother and her extensive lingerie wardrobe reminiscent of the enfant terrible from his childhood.

This iconic garment, among others, can be seen live in the new exhibition premiered at CaixaForum Barcelona: ‘Cine y moda. Por Jean Paul Gaultier’. An exhibition co-organized by the La Caixa Foundation and La Cinémathèque francaise that proposes an eclectic journey that intertwines cinema and fashion with great creators and artists, from the personal point of view of the controversial creator, as a costume designer and as a movie buff. For Gaultier there is no cinema without fashion, and vice versa.

Backstage, desfile de Jean Paul Gaultier, colección Barbès, 1984, prêt-à-porter de mujer otoño-invierno 1984-1985. © William Klein.

Divided into five areas, the author’s exhibition where Gaultier captures his gaze, reviews the presence of the world of fashion in cinema, the collaborations of great designers in film costumes and the creation of male and female archetypes. The enfant terrible of fashion emphasizes key aspects that are present in his career as a designer such as female empowerment and pays attention to heterodox figures of male and female warriors, androgynous and transvestites, as well as the influence of rock, punk and and queer that have marked fashion so much in recent years.

After passing through Paris and Madrid, the exhibition, dedicated to the memory of the filmmaker Tonie Marshall, brings together in Barcelona a heterogeneous set of more than 100 pieces of clothing that are shown in nearly 70 looks, fragments of more than 90 films and 125 graphic representations (posters, sketches, frames and photographs), between originals and reproductions, mostly from the prestigious collection of La Cinémathèque Française and complemented by works from more than twenty national and international lenders.

Díptico Marlene Dietrich. Masque & Narcisse, 2021. © Bastien Pourtout i Edouard Taufenbach, colección Pierre Passebon, 2021.

Among the nearly 70 iconic film looks are dresses worn by Grace Jones in ‘A View to a Kill’ (1985), Catherine Deneuve in ‘8 Women’ (2002), Grace Kelly in ‘Rear Window’ (1954); Sharon Stone in ‘Basic Instinct’ (1992); Marilyn Monroe in ‘Nude Eve’ (1950); ‘Tay Garnett’s Seven Sinners (1940); Brad Davies in ‘Querelle’ (1982) or as we said at the beginning, the famous pink corset that graced Madonna on her world tour.

Also, the ‘Superman’ suits (which Christopher Reeve wore); ‘The Mask of Zorro’ (1998), with Antonio Banderas; the shorts that Sylvester Stallone wore in ‘Rocky’, or Victoria Abril’s wardrobe in ‘Kika’ (1993) which, together with that of other films such as ‘Bad Education’ (2004) or ‘The Fifth Element’ (1997) , was designed by Gaultier. In this line, haute couture designs by Coco Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Hubert de Givenchy, Manuel Pertegaz, Balenciaga and Sybilla, among others, are also on display.

Fotografía entre bastidores de la película ¿Quién eres tú, Polly Maggoo? 1966 © William Klein/ Films Paris New York.

Two films that mark the beginnings of Gaultier

Among all the parade of looks, projections and key garments, there are two films that take pride of place in the exhibition and have to do with the origins of the designer. The first would change the course of his life. Gaultier was then 13 years old when he first saw Jacques Becker’s ‘Falbalas’ (1945). A melodrama starring a seamstress and set in the hustle and bustle of a sewing house during the postwar period. This film is the “culprit” of his desire to dedicate himself to the world of fashion. From there he began to design figurines that he would later transform into designs. The other film that has marked the French creator has been ‘Who are you, Polly Maggoo?’ (1996) by William Klein, who in the film analyzes his time with a keen eye and lays bare the then incipient reality shows. It is a satire of the egocentric delusions of the world of haute couture, where at that time the space age dominated and everyone from the misanthropic couturier to the most versatile editor-in-chief fell.

Pedro Almodóvar, Victoria Abril y Jean Paul Gaultier en el plató de Kika, 1994 © Nacho Pinedo.

Moda y arte, actividades en paralelo

The exhibition ‘Cinema and fashion. By Jean Paul Gaultier’ will be open to the public until October 23. On this occasion, to investigate the close relationship between fashion and art, CaixaForum Barcelona has organized a cycle of conferences in September that proposes dialogues on how art and fashion influence each other: is art the source of inspiration for fashion or are fashion codes the ways the artist chooses to develop his poetics? The French philosopher and sociologist Gilles Lipovetsky, the architect Manuel Blanco, the journalists Isabel Margalejo and Carlos Primo, the popularizer Charo Mora (responsible for the cycle) or the model Sita Abellán, are some of the names that will illustrate the links between fashion and art, architecture, literature and music.

Detalles de la exposición ‘Cine y moda. Por Jean Paul Gaultier’

The summer season begins with a trend less and less reserved for special occasions: sequins, which with their glitter catch all eyes. Disconnected from their comfort zone, these small metallic sheets sewn into the fabric become the protagonists of the moment together with other materials that dazzle on their own, such as iridescence or satin finishes that produce a more discreet shine.

On this occasion, sequins, along with fluorescent colours and transparencies, have featured on the fashion shows of the SS22 collections of Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Loewe, Valentino or Rodarte and are set to invade the street through resplendent outfits. The key to sequins, until now reserved for specific celebrations such as New Year’s Eve, is that there are many options to show them off successfully in garments to wear at all hours. Day and night without paying attention to brightness or excesses. From the rock & roll looks of Saint Laurent, to the sophistication of Chanel and Celine that combine them with tweed or in key details such as Gucci, Balmain or Paco Rabanne, creator of the iconic metallic mesh.

From Tutankhamun to Leonardo da Vinci

The origin of sequins dates back to Ancient Egypt, where small gold and silver discs were sewn onto the clothes of the pharaohs and their consorts as a sign of wealth. In fact, it was during the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 that archaeologists found, among other objects, clothing decorated with shiny metal disks. A time that coincided, in turn, with the metallic fever of the Roaring 20s, embodied by the costumes of the flappers and the Egyptomania that unleashed this fact, which inspired the designers of the time to design outfits with metallic discs to stand out on the dance floor.

In English, the word sequin (sequin, is linked to the Arabic term sikka (coin) and al zecchino, a golden coin minted in Venice during the 13th century. The first sequins were coins sewn onto clothing, for reasons ranging from displaying wealth and status to making life difficult for thieves. It is also said that Leonardo da Vinci, one of humanity’s great inventors, devised a machine to produce small metal discs. A prototype that was never manufactured, but that already establishes the age of the sequin.

Later, in the 17th and 18th centuries, wallets and cases began to be used, and pockets appeared. Therefore, in men’s and women’s clothing it was no longer necessary to sew the coins to the clothes to keep them safe, and the small metal disks became a purely aesthetic ornament.

The sequin shines in the 20th century

Sequins as we know them emerged in the 20th century. Its sparkles began to adorn the rich dresses of the Belle Époque, added touches of light to the creations of the 1920s and returned to adorn the garments of the sensual 1950s. Actresses like Marilyn Monroe or Rita Hayworth succumbed to the sparkle of sequins with innumerable outfits that shimmered on and off the celluloid. A sparkly dress from the era that connects with today is the iconic beige dress that the blonde diva wore when she sang ‘Happy Birthday’ to President John F. Kennedy in 1962. That same crystal-covered gown was worn by Kim Kardashian in the Met Gala 2022.

The materials used to create the sequins also changed over time. The metal of the first prototypes evolved into gelatin in the 1930s. The latter material was lighter, but it was brittle and did not withstand changes in temperature well. Later, they became plastic, flexible and resistant to washing. Thanks to this change, sequins became more practical, less expensive and more affordable than their previous versions.

An ornament linked to music, movement and excess

With the innovation of new materials and the triumph of prêt-à-porter in the sixties, the use of sequins became popular in more common clothing that became daring, lively and colourful. The objective? Adorn the silhouette, empower it and become the center of attention. This manifested very well in the seventies with disco fever. In the countercultural movements, sequins and all shiny fabrics became a symbol of rebellion against the system they considered serious and boring. That’s when the glam rock era began . A sensual, androgynous, eccentric and revolutionary movement whose symbol was David Bowie with his iconic alter ego: Ziggy stardust . The man with the stars, and other singers of the time, wrapped themselves in lamé suits, sequins and lots of glitter.

Shiny fabrics, with sequins being the favourite, shone again in the 1980s. Michael Jackson was responsible for bringing glitter and pharaonic garments back to life with memorable performances where the King of Pop donned suits covered in sequins and rhinestones.

Nowadays, sequins, as well as other shiny fabrics, are subjected to the ups and downs of cyclical fashion. Its material is still based on plastic, now mostly recycled, but with special coatings. What has not changed is its meaning. Sequins spark the imagination, become visible and illuminate people’s daily lives. They are an element of escapism, something to cling to other fantasy worlds. And we already know that fashion is a dream and at Gratacós we like to make you dream through our sequin fabrics. Here we leave you a selection of the most innovative so that you shine with your own light.

Orange is a more common colour than we think, although its role in history has always been relegated to the background. This hybrid shade between red and yellow provokes an immediate reaction when recognized. It activates, stimulates, surprises and entertains. Not surprisingly, this striking colour is always associated with the unconventional. Its uniqueness has played an important role in art, history and design. Since ancient times orange was present in Ancient Egyptian rituals, it has been considered a sacred colour in various Asian cultures and has come to fall in love with artists such as Vincent van Gogh and Toulouse-Lautrec who used orange in their paintings. We reveal some anecdotes about this exotic colour, often underestimated.

Orange in ancient times

The ancient Egyptians were the first to use a shade between yellow and orange that they extracted from the mineral realgar to decorate their tombs. The pigment that was extracted was toxic – it contains arsenic – and was used by the Chinese to drive away snakes, as well as being used in the country ‘s traditional medicine . Another related mineral, orpiment was also used as a pigment and was considered a highly valued trade commodity in ancient Rome. In the Middle Ages the orange pigment was used during the Middle Ages in manuscripts.

In Asia, orange was considered a symbol with different interpretations depending on the culture of each country. This tonality is present in many of the Asian religions. In Buddhism, orange is a sacred colour: it is considered the tone of enlightenment and the search for knowledge and for this reason, the clothing of Buddhist monks is traditionally of this colour. For Confucianism, orange symbolizes the colour of transformation. In Hinduism, the dress worn by Krishna – one of the most revered personified deities – is always in this brilliant hue. The name of the colour in India and China derives from saffron which in turn was the most expensive dye in the two countries. These Asian powers considered that orange represented the perfect balance between the perfection of yellow and the power of red.

A nameless colour

In Asia, orange was a revered hue. On the other hand, in Europe the colour did not have a name until the 16th century when Portuguese merchants brought from India and China the most exotic fruits of the time: oranges and tangerines, tinged with a colour that Europeans called reddish yellow until then. This striking colour imported from the Far East via orange trees was named after the fruit itself. Orange in Spanish, orange in english, arancia in italian and orange in Portuguese.

Another curiosity: today orange is a colour that connects on a psychological level with the world of flavours and is pleasing to the eye when linked to food. Peaches, apricots, mangoes, carrots, prawns, prawns, salmon, pumpkins, curries… Orange can be an appetizing colour, right?

Orange in art

In Western European art, the use of orange became common as from the 19th century, when the first synthetic orange pigment called chrome orange was produced. This tone was a favourite of Pre-Raphaelite and Impressionist painters, who made use of colour to capture the effects of natural light. Artists such as Monet, Gauguin, Renoir, and Toulouse-Lautrec used colour extensively to elicit feelings of warmth, escapism, and playfulness. If there is an artist who was directly linked to the colour orange, it was Vincent van Gogh, who through painting mixed his own shades of orange and used them in contrast to the blues and purples characteristic of his work.

A seasonal colour in 2022

Although Pantone crowned Very Peri lilac as the colour of the year in 2022, the truth is that the fashion industry seems to have set its sights on a more intense and vital hue to lift the spirits. On catwalks through the summer and pre-fall collections , on the street style of fashion weeks , in the windows of the big firms… orange has emerged as one of the star shades of the season in all its possible ranges.

Orange has been present in the current SS22 collection by Christian Siriano, Collina Strada or Proenza Schouler, transmitting optimism and joy to the clothes presented, but it is in the transition collections that it gains more strength. For example, Erdem is one of the firms that has opted for this colour, but in its softer versions such as boiler orange for satin dresses with black motifs and looks that play with textures and use the same tone. For its part, Chloé has opted for pastel shades giving it a less aggressive look. Oscar de la Renta has given orange reddish nuances, always accompanied by other colours or in bag format. Instead, Gucci has opted this season for a vitamin orange that dyes a multi-layered skirt in the same tone.

The namarillo is once again stepping strongly on the catwalks. A hybrid shade halfway between orange and yellow that became popular in 2016 among the spring collections and caused a furor due to its showiness and luminosity, being the summer shade at the time. Now Prabal Gurung has recovered this vitamin tone and has incorporated it into a large part of the looks of its latest collection. In a slightly more subdued tone, Staud has turned it into knitted sets with microshorts and Chanel into jumpsuits that are the hallmark of its creative director, Virginie Viard .

How to combine it?

Sometimes what is seen on the catwalk does not necessarily end up being worn on the street. And orange seduces at first sight, but it is not an easy colour to wear nor is it discreet. Still, the street style of the fashion prescribers or the looks exposed by the celebrities in the network carpets are the best reference to demonstrate the chromatic possibilities that orange has in the wardrobe.

The easiest way to get started in the colour orange is to do it in small doses through a single garment or simply relegating it to accessories. The tones that always go well with orange are the neutral ones: white, black and beige tones or makeup that creates a base effect. On the other hand, if your level of daring is high, orange looks great in a total look through dresses, jacket suits or combinations of tops with skirts. As for risky combinations that enhance this vitamin colour, there are some that are often repeated on the catwalk that flow due to their contrast: orange with fuchsia for maximum daring; orange with intense green to play with the complementary ones; orange with light blue or pale pink to reduce intensity; orange with purple to claim prominence; orange with gray for rainy days, or obviously, orange with orange for a harmonic visual game. This colour accepts more shades than you would have imagined!

Finally, we show you some of our most vitamin-rich fabrics for the new season. What do you imagine designing with them?

April is the month of fashion in Barcelona. Prior to a new edition of Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, a week ago saw the start of the latest edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion, with 22 virtual parade shows and designers who presented the new season in the Macba, within the rationalist building designed by the architect Richard Meier. A new staging of the imaginative creativity exhibited by brands via Fashion Films, seasonal collections that can be followed visually on the website of the Catalan catwalk. Gratacós has also followed the latest fashion trends to check once again how our fabrics have taken shape thanks to the designers who habitually trust in us: Avellaneda, Eiko Ai, Menchen Tomás, Yolancris and Victor Von Schwarz. We review the new creations and some of the key looks.

Summer nights

Faithful to his hedonist philosophy the dandy Juan Avellaneda transposes us to tropical latitudes in his new summer collection to continue exploring the most relaxed elegance, inspired by warm paradises in the north of Africa. The central feature of the creation is via natural fabrics, luminous or fiery shades such as pink, orange and coral, and patterns that in general lack rigidity. There are also several models of jacket, the fetish garment of the brand of this Barcelona designer, which oscillate effortlessly between male and female wardrobes. The prints move away from the banal to embrace a Mediterranean version of delicateness that gives character to ethereal skirts and smoking-jackets which rebel against the boring. The garments evoke the practical elegance of Saharan and classic tailoring by those mid-century holiday-makers who immortalized Slim Aarons. Blouses caress the body and intertwine. Trousers dance and dresses cling to the skin or deploy fabulous volumes and flyers, another 100% Avellaneda detail. In Au réveil il était midi all the clothes combine with everything, they harmonize and flow for a perfect summer.

The warm sunlight

Eiko Ai dazzles us with Lucid Dreams, a radiant collection inspired by the vitality of solar energy. In addition to this inspiration Glò Lladó’s formula remains firm in each of her designs and consists of promoting feminine beauty by playing with delicacy and sensuality. And how does she achieve it? Via vaporous silhouettes, ethereal fabrics which give glimpses of skin and via evocative stamping that mixes sophistication without abandoning the casual and cosmopolitan spirit of this Barcelona company. The new summer creation from Eiko Ai enhances the kimono dresses, fluid blouses and two-piece combinations featuring transparencies, subtle glitter and faded prints with other florals that pay tribute to that mystical vision of woman as an urban nymph. The palette of the collection goes for positivism, summer life and golden light via intense oranges playing with the range of yellows, pinks and whites and brushstrokes of intense blue sky. 

Class is class

For his part, Menchen Tomás reminds us of the importance of inheritance in Old Money, a collection that is inspired by the way of dressing and living of American families who have managed to pass fortune, class and status from generation to generation. An aesthetics characterized by sophistication, the fusion between the classic and the contemporary and timeless elegance, far from the culture of logo and ostentation. With that interpretation the Barcelona company brings together garments such as dresses and midi-skirts, pinned wide trousers, voluminous poplin shirts with other sporty garments that could be used for a day in a country-club or dinner in a garden on a summer night. Regards fabric details there is no shortage of silks, organzas and tulle flowers in a vibrant chromatic palette: blue, lime green, yellow, fuchsia-pink and bright-red.

Fashion without gender

Victor von Schwarz is part of the new generation of young talents that bring creativity and freshness on the 080catwalk. This time, the designer Barcelona presented a collection inspired by the Asian Mafia films of the 80s and 90s, whose centre of operations was the red neighbourhoods of cities such as Taipei or Hong Kong. Victor von Schwarz is committed to fashion without gender. Therefore, the designer, inspired by oriental clothing, creates open pieces, which anyone can wear, regardless of sex or gender. The silhouettes of the new summer creational are divided into two blocks. The first is very bright, with volumes, drape and transparency features that give a glimpse of skin. The second, part of a much more square silhouette and with variations of the classic tailored jacket. In this collection the fabrics are characterized by their imaginativeness. Sequins are prominent, from Vichy print to bright degrade. We also highlight bright laminates based on viscose and tulles with silver prints. As for colours, pastel shadestones and splashes of colour are a feature of this genderless creation.

Black velvet

Yolancris this time participated in the 080 Barcelona Fashion with her party collection, leaving aside her more experimental project Y Como. The new creation highlights the craft-work redolent of her own workshop itself where the accent is on velvet, flesh-colour and black. With regard to detail, velvet is mixed with golden threads, embedded French lace and macramés in an attractive combination. Binomies of colour also dominate: gold-black and white-black, and are separated with explosions of monocoloured dresses: red and powder pink. As for silhouettes, the collection brings together some classic pattern ideas combined with some more daring features, evident, for example, in the openings of the dresses. In general Yolancris’s creation aims to be timeless so as to offer an expansive wardrobe for special occasions.

We have been following their path for a long time and have admired the creations of Quique Vidal (Valencia, 1996), alma mater of Becomely, a fashion brand with its own personality. If you follow us on Instagram,  you will have seen in our feed, those baby doll silhouette dresses in pastel tones and large volumes that we usually share from the young 26-year-old creator. Despite the naive spirit, Quique Vidal’s project has nothing to do with lightness or immaturity. Quite the opposite…

Beginnings are not easy

Becomely was officially founded in 2015. Previously, the young designer had done some work for several teachers who requested dresses for their graduation. That spontaneous start dressing anonymous women encouraged him to move to Madrid to make a living as a designer. He participated twice in Samsung EGO, the catwalk for emerging talents at MBFW Madrid. In parallel, Quique Vidal sold t-shirts, socks and also his famous biodegradable plastic costume jewelery made with 3D printing to cover part of the costs of producing and designing the collections presented. In fact, the designer currently combines his artistic work at Becomely with his other project, Estudio Cartulina, a company specializing in communication, brand consulting and production. The moonlighting artist is a reality for many young people in the world of fashion.

Craft and production on demand

Becomely is a sustainable, artisanal brand that creates intricate limited edition pieces that are produced on demand. The pandemic disrupted Quique’s business model to evolve towards new, more direct channels for consumers. If before they sold through the website and in some selected stores that included countries like Asia, now the Spanish firm focuses sales on social networks, especially on Instagram. This change allows greater contact with the clientele: a more personalized service can be offered and the budget can also be adjusted.

The design has not changed. Becomely maintains the emblem of the baby doll dresses with a V-neckline, puffed sleeves and volumes also in the skirt. A model that is repeated from the first collections and in which Quique Vidal is adding variations: large buttons, shirt lapels, different lengths… The fabric he uses to create his designs is also a differentiating element. Opt for eye-catching items: enigmatic Jacquards, tactile reliefs, details such as feathers, shiny motifs, fabrics with extra volume… always in pastel shades such as pale pink, baby blue, lavender or off-white. In fact, it is no mystery that Quique Vidal manages to magnify some of our most special fabrics each season. Becomely also takes advantage of the small scraps left over from his shirts and dresses to create new pieces such as bags, satchels or hats. A formula that take sustainability to its ultimate consequences.

Becomely’s designs have already hit the stage through artists like Amaia . The singer appeared in her latest video clip, Yamaguchi, wearing a white dress that follows the recognizable aesthetics of the brand and is made as we pointed out, with deadstock fabric : leftovers from suppliers or workshops. The actress Emma Suárez also noticed Quique Vidal’s creations and ordered a dress for a premiere that she had at the beginning of the year.

The Bride Becomely

Recently, Quique Vidal has dared to design a wedding dress that maintains the aesthetic codes of the brand. It is a flattering model that combines a minimalist silhouette with romantic elements and precious details. The dress is long with a V-neckline and straps dominated by huge bows. A voluminous skirt in embossed Jacquard fabric has just structured the ideal bridal design for millennial or Zeta brides . In fact, it is such a versatile model that it can be worn for a wedding, a special occasion or to add fantasy to a daily look, always depending on the footwear that is combined. What is clear is that there are fewer and fewer limits and barriers between formal or informal styles. Let each one interpret it in their own way!

An enfant terrible is a precocious genius with brilliant ideas, but with a rebellious and transgressive attitude, whose creations are innovative and offer a new disruptive vision, far from the traditional, orthodox or conventional. John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen are some of the most international enfants terribles in fashion. In our country there are also provocateurs of the thread and the needle. Some of the most notorious names are recovered by the Fundació Antoni de Montpalau together with the Fundación Rocamora in a new exhibition entitled ‘Daviddelfín and other enfants terribles of fashion’ that opened on February 6th in Barcelona. The exhibition consists of an exhaustive compilation of the work of the designer from Malaga, unique in Catalonia, together with the groundbreaking and provocative trajectory of other Spanish designers, from the 1980s to the present.

The most extensive work of David Delfin

The monographic part dedicated to David Delfín occupies the first floor of the Rocamora Foundation and brings together more than 60 pieces of clothing that review the designer’s collections, from 2001 to 2017, with some of the most emblematic works. Along with the pieces of clothing, a selection of accessories such as bags and shoes is also included.

Although Diego David Domíngez González, David Delfín, had already carried out some previous experiments, his homonymous brand would be born in 2001 in a joint project with the Postigo brothers (Deborah, Gorka and Diego) and Bimba Bosé, the designer’s muse and model. This innovative project went beyond fashion, mixing theatre, music, painting, poetry, photography and cinema. As a brand,  Davidelfín debut in Barcelona on the alternative catwalk show Circuit with its first ‘Openin’ Nite’ collection. A year later he make the leap to the Cibeles catwalk in Madrid with the proposal ‘Cour des Miracles’, inspired by Luis Buñuel’s films ‘Viriadina’ and ‘Belle de Jour’ and also in the painting ‘Los Amantes’ by René Margritte , painted in 1928, showing two hooded lovers kissing.

As a tribute to Magritte’s painting, the models paraded down the catwalk with hooded faces reminiscent of Arab burkas, ropes around their necks and large wooden rosaries, some garments made with sanitary bandages. This parade was misunderstood and criticized in the media, perhaps for coinciding with the war in Afghanistan. Despite the controversy, this show positioned the brand and a year later, Davidelfín would receive the L’Oreal award for young designers. From this moment on, the designer’s self-taught creativity had no limits: Bimba Bosé would be the indispensable protagonist of his fashion shows and among the public and their friends, they would become his best ambassadors. The designer continued to present his collections at Cibeles and made the leap to New York in 2009 and 2010. The brand was also awarded at Marie Claire, Telva and in 2016, won the National Fashion Design Award. Davidelfín also participated in numerous museums, institutions and art galleries in Barcelona, ​​Madrid, Bilbao, Málaga, Venice, New York, Washington, Mexico, Tokyo and Moscow. Unfortunately, the promising creator’s career was cut short in 2017 after an intense battle with brain cancer, a few months after Bimba’s death. David Delfin was only 46 years old.

The other enfants terribles

The exhibition goes one step further and to accompany the tribute to Davidelfín, the Fundació Antonio de Montpalau has chosen a series of designers who have also known how to break the mold and occupy the ground floor of Manuel Rocamora’s summer mansion.

Thus, this second part of the exhibition begins with Luis Fortes, the controversial designer of the 1980s in Barcelona with very daring proposals that even anticipated those that Thierry Mugler, a recently deceased French creator, would make shortly after.

From Madrid in the 1990s, the Vacas Flacas duo, made up of Carolina Azcona and Miriam Cobo, would create a fuss at the Cibeles Catwalk with their garments made of cloths, gloves, towels, socks, zips or scarves. A good selection of that can be seen in the exhibition, along with a spectacular coat made with Barça scarves. Recently the actress Milena Smit has resurrected one of the most emblematic t-shirts of the Madrid firm. The sample also includes five spectacular Alaskan costumes, designed by Juan Pedro del Moral, Little Joe Couture, who has also designed the styling of the Blonde Nancys. In fact, the brand is also in charge of dressing the members of Fangoria. Also from the 1990s are the two pieces included in the exhibition by Estanislao, the creator of the renowned Eometric pattern-making method.

For her part, Bibian Blue, a designer famous for her bodysuits worn by international artists such as Katy Perry or Dolly Parton, was one of Luis Fortes’ most outstanding students in the 1990s and created her own brand in 2000, achieving great acceptance within the European underground scene. The sample includes one of her spectacular butterfly wing dresses.

The exhibition also makes reference to Mertxe Hernández. The designer created her MTC brand in 1997 and opened a store in El Born, where she became known. After presenting collections in Germany, the creator decided to dedicate herself to the world of artistic creation. Some of the garments that she presented on the ‘Colonia Fashion Days’ catwalk, made with polyamide stockings, are included.

Finally, the exhibition also brings together iconic garments from Gori de Palma (Modafad, Gaudí and Cibeles) and ¡Ánimo, Valiente! The firm of a Basque designer based in Barcelona who works with recycled jeans and from a decided marginality. Who also deserves a special mention is the latest designer to participate in the show: the current and mediatic Palomo Spain, who included one of the most emblematic suits of his meteoric career.

The showcase is a visual presentation of who we are, what we do and how we do it. An aesthetic entrance that attracts the visitor, but also justifies our work: the creation of quality fabrics that allow you to dream. During this uncertain year we have tried to surprise you with artistic windows that play with concepts that represent us such as luxury, elegance, fantasy, escape or everyday life through our mannequins that have been dressed in the most spectacular fabrics of the season along with other elements that we hope have surprised you. A wedding moulage, a chic picnic or a female interpretation of the Magi. These are some of the scenes that you have been able to observe through the window of our Gratacós space.

Now, before welcoming the new year, we take advantage of this post to say goodbye to 2021 with the certainty that it has been a year of transition that has allowed us to remain stable thanks to the cohesion between teams and your support and trust in this brand of family fabrics. We have new perspectives for 2022 and we want to move forward with new articles that will stand out for their quality, creativity and ability to surprise. Get excited, in short. Happy New Year!

March 2021. New direction

One year after the start of the pandemic, we awake dreaming of planning the upcoming holidays with a relaxation of restrictions. Easter, the May bank holidays and the not so distant summer disconnection. The beginning of spring also marked a minimalist-inspired showcase featuring two mannequins dressed for the occasion to pay tribute to those bridal celebrations that were returning to the fore. Tailoring, feather details and two antagonistic tones that capture the incipient change of season: forest green and dusty pink.

April 2021. Wedding bells

As tradition dictates, April is the bridal month par excellence and from Gratacós we always reserve this shop display to show off the work of one of the winners of the IED Barcelona. wedding dress design postgraduate moulage contest. This is an opportunity we offer to showcase the work of new talents in bridal design. This year, Eva Escudero created this impressive wedding dress with an asymmetrical design and a large flowing skirt, following in the footsteps of this unique tailoring technique.

May 2021. Country spirit

In the month of flowers, the  Joplin Atelier company of the sisters Laura and Aida Molano turned our entrance space into an urban picnic with a Provencal air. The tulle dresses with small polka dots made with our fabrics, the details in bows and the pastel tones starred in a chic showcase with a multitude of details to carry out this picnic in the open air. An artistic representation that portrays the spirit of escape that connects us with nature.

July 2021. Time to escape

The summer month par excellence is a tribute to festivals, fun and feeling carefree, maintaining that hedonistic attitude to take life a little more lightly, enjoying all the earthly pleasures. July has a fresh, youthful and daring character, as evidenced by the outfit of our mannequin in pink gingham fabric. Let the party begin!

September 2021. Start over

September is the official month of beginnings. The new season, the change of season, the return to routines … we illustrate the busiest month on the calender by paying tribute to comfort through a bathrobe-type trench coat made of pistachio green tweed, all very daring dyed yarn, with a wool touch and thick weight. A carpet of dry leaves marks the beginning of autumn, which in Barcelona is light and soft.

October 2021. The Pink month. 

It is called the pink month because it is recognized worldwide with this feminine color to raise awareness in men and women about breast cancer and promote self-examination and check-ups to be able to detect it early. Our tribute to the most delicate, subtle and romantic month was made by Rosa Cano, a student at ESDI, Escuela Superior de Diseño with these contrasting fabric models that play with the entire range of pastels and nudes. One of the most spectacular showcases of the year!

November 2021. Let the party commence!

The proximity of the Christmas holidays makes November a month of preparations. A headstart on shopping, lights that turn on and the search for the most surprising outfits to fill the holidays with magic. The designer Claudia from the Institut Català de la Moda (ICM) presents three models from the ‘Ritmos’ collection. Voluminous dresses with meters and meters of suggestive organza for celebrations full of fantasy. 

December 2021. The three queens

We ended the year again in collaboration with Joplin Atelier and its proposal in a feminine key. Our “Three Magical Queens” are a tribute to the strength of women, capable of dealing with all areas of their lives with determination and mastery. They are the philosopher’s stone of many families and especially during the hustle and bustle of the Christmas holidays. The mannequins share a turban and crown to match their short dresses with a closed neck and puffed sleeves made from acetate satin with lamé. Under their feet they protect all the gifts, the symbol of the act of sharing (and receiving).

December is the month of rituals and traditions marked especially by Christmas and the closeness to our loved ones. For designers, there is one thing that is awaited for with enthusiasm: finally knowing the colour that will mark the following year and that will be announced at this time, Pantone. The world authority of colour has once again communicated the tonality that will mark the year 2022 in areas as multidisciplinary as design, art, advertising or fashion. It’s called Very Peri and it’s a novel shade based on lilac that, they say, “maintains a daring presence and stimulates ingenuity and personal creativity.” Do you have a better cover letter?

As you already know, the annual choice of a colour is not done randomly or is the result of whim because it involves a deep study and analysis of trends by the trendhunters of the Pantone Colour Institute. With an in-depth study of the impact that various exhibitions, works of art, films that will be released next year, the most popular destinations, new technologies and all together, the global mood, they have a meticulous discussion and dimension the impression that every aspect will have. Before closing the year, experts have revealed what 2022 holds for us.

“Creating a new colour for the first time in the history of our colour program is a reflection of a process of innovation and transformation at a global level,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Institute of Colour.

“The Pantone Colour of the Year is a reflection of what is happening in our world culture and expresses the answer to what people are looking for in this colour,” says Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Colour Institute. ” He adds: “The creation of a new colour for the first time in the history of our educational colour program Pantone Colour of the Year is a reflection of a process of innovation and transformation on a global level. As society recognizes colours as a fundamental form of communication and as a way of expressing, capturing, connecting and influencing ideas and emotions, this new and complex blue hue fused with purplish red highlights the range of possibilities that are presented to us. “

In this case, by encompassing the qualities of blues and, at the same time, having a purplish-red hue, PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri displays a cheerful and lively attitude, as well as a dynamic presence that stimulates the courage to create and an imaginative expression. 

Deciphering the enigmatic tonality of 2022

Very Peri represents the perfect fusion between blue and red. A bridge between two primary tones that are interrelated giving way to this enigmatic tone. According to Pantone, Very Peri is the result of carefree confidence and daring curiosity that encourages our creative, inquisitive and inclusive spirit. The authority of colour considers that this tonality helps to embrace this altered landscape of possibilities and opens a new vision so that each one can rewrite their own life. Rekindling gratitude for some of the qualities blue represents complemented by a new perspective that resonates today, PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri puts the future ahead in a new light.

Very Peri displays a cheerful and lively demeanor, as well as a dynamic presence that stir up courage to create and an imaginative expression.

In times of transformation, Very Peri is a symbol of the spirit of our current global age and the transition we are experiencing today. As the period of isolation, marked by the global pandemic, is emerging, notions and standards are changing and people’s physical and digital lives have merged in new ways creating hybrids. This tonality also symbolizes the rise of digital design, which helps to stretch the limits of reality, opening the door to a dynamic virtual world where you can explore and create new colour possibilities. With trends in gaming, the growing popularity of the metaverse, and the growing arts community in the digital space, PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri illustrates the fusion of modern life in correspondence with colour trends in the digital world and how together they are manifest in the physical world and vice versa.

This colour illustrates the fusion of modern life in correspondence with colour trends in the digital world and how together they manifest in the physical world and vice versa.

How do we apply Very Peri in the world of fashion?

We said it at the beginning. Very Peri is the colour that seeks to convey courage, boost reinvention and stimulate creativity by displaying carefree confidence and infinite curiosity. It is a fresh, versatile and genderless shade that adapts to a wide variety of fabrics, textures and reliefs, provides a touch of colour and does not go unnoticed at all. On the catwalks, this hue has starred in monochrome looks in the shows of the new summer collections by Isabel Marant, Balenciaga, Thom Browne or Ermanno Scervino. Other firms such as Lanvin or Marine Serre have chosen to combine this violet tone with arty prints and neutral tones. 

In Gratacós we have several seasonal fabrics where the Very Peri colour is present. You will find it in plain items and through prints or in its more sophisticated version with reliefs, iridescence and rhinestones. Take the opportunity to rediscover the collection that we have on offer in our online store.

From Gratacós we closely follow the Spanish catwalks because we like to appreciate the creativity of designers in the form of impressive seasonal garments and how, sometimes, one of our fabrics sneaks into the looks of their magnificent collections. After the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid in September, the last appointment with fashion was held by 080 Barcelona Fashion last month, in a new exhibition of fashion and power.

The Catalan catwalk once again opted for the digital format, presenting for the third time in a row, fashion short films previously recorded and edited by 22 designers who participated in the last edition. This time, the film set of the audiovisual pieces took place in a space that broke with the modernist legacy of recent editions: Xavier Corberó’s residential and architectural complex located in Esplugues de Llobregat. A wonderful sculptural work of concrete and glass of a rationalist character with dreamlike buildings that recall the metaphysical painting of Giorgio de Chirico or the mathematical art of Escher.

Next, we explain in detail some of the collections that surprised us the most with designers who maintain creative discourses linked to uniqueness, craftsmanship, sustainability or proximity.

Avellaneda

Avellaneda turned the XC space of the Xavier Corberó architectural complex into a glamorous party displaying beauty, youth and good taste in clothing. In the new collection, the Barcelona designer Juan Avellaneda was inspired by the city and the individuals who inhabit it and share secrets, passions, ephemeral romances, eternal promises and moments of fun. This urban jungle consisted of a sophisticated collection of cocktail looks with traces of safari style: a revision of the zebra animal print , sequined jackets and baggy pants in earth tones. These innovative pieces coexisted with their signature flagships: tuxedos, dresses with sensual openings, silks, ruffles and sequins reign in clothes with daring patterns in a unique proposal that mixes exoticism with its usual elegance. The neutral bases, the pairing of black and white, red and fuchsia gave colour to this festive collection that plays with the classic codes of good dress.

Eiko Ai

Eiko Ai brings a new value in women’s fashion by combining concepts such as sophistication and sensuality in the clothes that she creates in a casual style for everything to wear. Always with that point of magic that invites clients to dream through the designs. On this occasion, the firm led by Glò Lladó has presented in 080, a collection that represents a fantastic trip to the mountains that allows us to discover the nymphs of the forest. These creatures of evocative power, inspiring myth and legend, have been dressed in two-piece combinations with bras – a hallmark of Eiko Ai-, oversized bomber jackets, trench coats with sparkly fabrics and sheer dresses with surprising cuts that insinuate without showing excessively. All this adorned with sequins, velvets, satins, lace and iridescent materials that create sensual transparencies on the models’ bodies. The silhouettes have a minimalist point inspired by the 90s and the lingerie looks blend with the festive in this exciting proposal tinged with deep green, silver and lavender that attracts at first glance.

Moisés Nieto

The designer from Úbeda (Jaén) made his debut on the Catalan catwalk displaying his credentials: contemporary design combined with the passion for craftsmanship and the trade that characterizes his elegant style from restraint. In the new collection for next season, Moisés Nieto takes a trip back in time to reconnect with his childhood in Andalusia. From the summers of the 90s, the designer chooses elements rescued from memory that serve to shape a proposal that speaks of everyday life: the crochet of the doilies, the nets of the curtains, the lace or the plants of the patio are a representation of the memories that take us to the eternal hot summers of the south. The sustainable brand shapes its particular vision in roomy midi dresses and pleated silk skirts. Light garments made with organic cotton or silk fabrics and mixed with artisan techniques such as knitting, crochet and macramé. It is worth noting the textures displayed that play with different weights and structures to create volume in women’s garments that add unexpected details. As in previous collections, the designer approaches craftsmanship and values ​​sustainability, two aspects that have become the most visible hallmarks of the Spanish firm.

Y_Como

Finally, highlight the new work of Cristina and Yolanda Pérez from Yolancris in the new brand, Y_Como, which once again surprises with a new collection based on research and the creative process. The summer proposal presented at 080 Barcelona Fashion is inspired by the painting ‘The Garden of Delights’ by Bosco. Specifically in the panel that refers to Paradiso with a free interpretation, but full of visual references that refer to the work focused on creation. In the first scene of the fashion film , set in the architectural garden of Xavier Corberó, the models that embody the characters in the painting appear: there is the owl that represents the evil that contemplates falling into temptation, the figures of Adam and Eve , and followed by exotic animals that are represented by models of baroque aesthetics that show spectacular golden robes with floral embroidery. Also featured are other black sexy dresses, garments with lots of floral and patchwork denim, fabric star creative signature ready-to-wear bulky clothes that give a rebellious streak this sensuous YComo proposal.

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