If anything has defined us since our beginnings, it is our firm commitment to the windows that decorate the shop we have in Barcelona. We are aware that they are our cover letter, the first visual point of attraction and “conquest” of the customer and represent a unique opportunity for designers’ creativity to flow hand in hand with our seasonal fabrics, creating dreamlike scenarios. Faced with this expectation, who can resist letting the imaginative madness of current fashion designers flow? Moreover, we like them to experiment, surprise and captivate us at first sight. An innovative staging of Gratac贸s fabrics in combinations that exceed our expectations. Moreover, the more disruptive the shop-front is, the better!
In 2019 we had the support of several artists who left their mark via our shop windows and to close last year, we want to recall them with a small tribute. Do you have any favourite? What did you like most? We review the most prominent:
February 2019. Rainy weather
Rain was the main feature of the most ephemeral month of the calendar in a work signed by Antonio Iglesias.The Barcelona interior designer wrapped the mannequin in a delicate plumeti tulle in pale pink to give it a fragile and nostalgic hue, in contrast to the black umbrellas with polka dot pattern that accompanied the model. A colour contrast with the same common denominator: patchwork.
March 2019. The floral awakening
The beginning of spring marked the theme of a floral showcase that coincided with the presentation of the new fabric season. Antonio Iglesias captured the essence of all this renovation via a shop window in pink tones in which a tulle curtain with inserted petals surrounding the mannequin stood out, dressed in one of the most successful floral crepes from the last collection.
April 2019. Bridal Moulage
April is the month of brides and at Gratac贸s we reserved this shop-front for one of the winners of the moulage competition among IED Barcelona wedding dress design graduates. A unique opportunity to publicize the work of the new generations in bridal design. In this case it was the student Katia Combatti who developed a spectacular wedding dress with large volumes on the sleeves, following the steps of this unique cutting and sewing technique.
May 2019. Fashion illustrated
When fashion dialogues with other disciplines such as illustration, you can find creatives as fascinating as the one that Joel Mi帽ana prepared in order to showcase the month of flowers. The renowned Catalan illustrator, capable of capturing the essence of fashion moments that escape photography, showed how he wanted the mannequin to be dressed: with textured fabrics contrasted in greenish tones and modern complements. Just take a look at the results!
June 2019. Brain & Beast Essence
脕ngel Vilda, designer and most visible face of Brain&Beast transformed the Gratac贸s shop-front into one of his creative illusions, marked by the criticism and dualities that his rebellious streak loves to play with. There was no lack of elements of popular culture, contrasting colours and a luxury of detail that is part of the unique Brain & Beast universe. Anyone who is familiar with them knows full well what to expect…
September 2019. The Dominican Harajuku Kids
2019 has been the year of take-off for Dominnico. Apart from his collaborations with Rosalia, the young designer from Alicante, in July he won the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent award from among the young companies that parade in the EGO of Cibeles. The award-winning ‘Harajuku Kids’ collection, inspired by the histrionic urban tribes of Japan, was made with some of the most special fabrics from the last spring collection. The shop-window reproduced some of the key looks of this surprising creation.
November 2019. Youth Eclecticism
At Gratac贸s we like to give an opportunity to new talent. That is why our shop-front is also sometimes an experimental support where it is the young talents who set their own limits. Design students from the Institut Catal脿 de la Moda (ICM) created an eclectic showcase of some of their most identifying outfits with amazing fabrics from the current autumn-winter 2019/2020 collection. A creation that was both fresh and eclectic.
December 2019. The dazzling angel
The last showcase of the year was sublime, starring a look inspired by the strength and goodness of an angel to express the most glamorous and sophisticated femininity, coinciding as it did with the Christmas festivities. It was conceived by the students of IED Barcelona who created an impressive feminine look in pink tones that empowered and attracted all eyes. An unforgettable showcase!
And the time has come! The time of the party and debauchery. Ornate garments and fabrics with sparkles that shine with their own light for daily celebrations accompanied by long nights that demand a more lavish dress code, where creativity and fantasy work at the service of sophistication. Those festive looks that bring out the best version of oneself because it is already known that the most shining 鈥渕e鈥 lives at Christmas. An era that us at Gratac贸s especially like for all its cultural and religious symbolism.
At this time of celebrations we want to show you the most fantasy collection of winter. That where gold and silver are the protagonists of the most sumptuous fabrics that gain in compositional richness, touch and volume. Also it is time to approach other products that explore the fantastical side of fashion through sequins, rhinestones, embroidery and metallic threads, among others.
Gold
Did you know that the gold colour is neither the most loved nor the most hated? And yet it is a tone that has double standards in terms of meaning. In its splendorous side, gold is associated with beauty, triumph, wealth and happiness. It is a symbol of courage and power. On its dark side, this precious metal also has strong links with materialism, vanity and even arrogance. The treasures are golden or the majestic palace of Versailles surrenders to gold, which is associated with luxury in its maximum opulence. In terms of fabrics, we pay homage to gold through pleats, sequins, embroidery and lam茅s, which create soft golden layers in more colourful or muted tones.
Silver
Silver is the colour that comes from the metal that gives it its name, silver. The first associations to this fashionable tone have to do with wealth, money or success, but also with coldness, greed or arrogance. Like its golden brother, it has an antagonistic connotation. Looking at the positive side of colour, silver is a tone also linked to luxury and partying that is associated with innovation, the future, movement and progress. It is not in vain that silver will dress future trends, avant-garde architecture, technological mechanisms or the most innovative developments. In fabrics, we highlight the inexhaustible sequins that are so successful during the festive season and the metallic sparkles of lame. Also some space-themed fantasy fabric.
Long life to colour
Not all the colour palette linked to partying has to do with metallic tones and the important thing is to choose fabrics that attract light through their fascinating sparkles. This season the games consists in the variety, the key lies in the brightness of the fabric. Thus, in our space the attractive emerald greens coexist, with the femininity of the powdered pinks, the enigmatic mauve and violet and the bet that never fails: the red classic in all its versions. From the vibrant crimson to the elegant maroon. Which one fits you the most?
Beyond our suggestions, we also invite you to enter our space in Barcelona to see the latest novelties and we want to surprise you with our new showcase of festive themes that IED Barcelona students have devised for these very special dates. The heavenly inspiration with an angel as main theme serves as a context to express the most glamorous femininity in a bewitching look in pink tones, which empowers and attracts all eyes. Happy Holidays to all!
They call it the new black for its versatility and functionality, appealing elegance with discretion.聽Navy blue was never a risky tone, nor did it pretend to be because it is precisely through harmony, balance and timelessness that it seduces, which makes it a safe bet inside the wardrobe, one which goes beyond the cycles and fashions dictated by the sector.聽And it is already well-known that the classic never dies.聽For this reason the colour in question borders on immortality.
Here are some curiosities about enigmatic navy blue:
The origin of navy blue
Navy blue owes its name to the dark blue that was used in the uniforms of several navies.聽The first to adopt this shade was the British Royal Navy in 1748 and subsequently it was extended to most of the world's navies.聽In fact it offered the advantage that being almost black the loss of colour was avoided.聽Thus during the 18th century it was used as a base to dye uniforms.
During the 19th century the use of navy blue extended to other professions and quickly conquered the street.聽Then the colour black continued to maintain dominance in clothing which was considered serious.聽However, dyers used Prussian blue and indigo pigments to launch the fashion of navy blue fabrics and dresses, which became a social phenomenon.聽Navy blue maintained the sobriety of black, but it proved to be less hard and above all cheaper.聽In fact the colour of the clothing was generally not a matter of taste, but rather of money.聽After World War I this dark hue displaced black in many professions such as sailors, military, gendarmes, fire-brigade, police or civil servants.
Dior adopts it as a feminist symbol
“Among all colours navy blue is the only one that can compete with black, by presenting the same virtues.” This phrase by Christian Dior has also guided the last stage of the French maison led by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman to lead the creative direction since 2017. Navy blue was Chiuri’s second collection for Dior, rebelliously picking up the heritage of the French designer with creations brimmed with items never seen on the catwalk such as jeans or a black leather beret as a star accessory.
Thus evening dresses, with transparencies and brightness, alternated with other looks for trouserss and workers’ overalls, as if they were factory uniforms combined with printed handbags. Navy blue represents equality and uniformity for Chiuri. There is no distinction of classes or genders. “The worker’s look is a way of saying that we have to work towards equal opportunities,” she argued at the time. Since then this colour has become a common resource in Dior collections that in lesser or greater proportion have adopted navy blue.
The most classic blue will also be the colour of 2020
2020 will also be dyed in blue. The justify Institute, a world reference in chromatic themes, has chosen the Classic Blue 19-4052 as the colour that will influence next year in such creative sectors as design, fashion or advertising.聽According to the institution it is a 鈥渓asting blue shade for our times, elegant in its simplicity鈥.聽It suggests the sky at sunset and its calming qualities, such as the promise of protection, 鈥漵aid Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Colour Institute.聽
According to the institution Classic Blue tends to surge at convulsive moments of change and this tonality evokes the desire to consolidate reliable and stable foundations on which we can build.聽In this sense, it offers us a refuge: 鈥淲e live in an era that demands trust and faith, and this type of blue offers a solid and reliable feeling that encourages us to broaden our thinking and challenges us to see things in depth,鈥 explains Leatrice Eiseman, the executive director of Pantone.
The Pantone colour of the year is chosen by the directors of the company and about 40 experts from around the world, who take into account factors such as the economic situation, films and popular songs or social issues, among other variables.聽Thus Classic Blue is taking over from Living Coral, the colour of 2019.
Fashion shows are appealing at any time of the year.聽They represent an opportunity to reflect on the sector from multiple points of view and covering topics as different as those we suggest below: the dialogue established by garments and their fabrics in migratory societies, the importance of sustainability, the history of footwear or a vision of fashion photography via one of the great contemporary artists.
On the eve of a new holiday, All Saints Day, we are offering you a new cultural route throughsome European exhibitions that we have not yet mentioned in this blog: interesting fashion shows in cultural capitals such as Antwerp, Florence, London and Paris, so that like us you can also find inspiration, knowledge and new ideas that enrich you in your respective jobs.聽Take note!
1.聽Antwerp: ‘Textile as Resistance’聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽聽
The exhibition聽‘Textile as Resistance’聽at the聽MoMu聽(Antwerp Fashion Museum) asks interesting questions of the public: What messages and stories can the fabrics convey?聽What does an item of clothing say about the person wearing it?聽Can fabrics weave the past with the present?聽Can they be acts of resistance?聽The journalist Samira Bendadi and the photographer Mashi Mohadjerin reflect on the values 鈥嬧媡hat fabrics can provide (shelter, resistance, hope, happiness, tradition, beauty, spirituality and decolonisation) and try to answer all these questions through this challenging sample.聽It is a joint photographic project that began through stories from immigrants in the Belgian fashion capital and that soon spread to other parts of the world.聽Thus in ‘Textile as Resistance’ this creative couple invites you to discover clothes and textiles as an excuse to learn visual and written stories that transcend religious, cultural and national boundaries.聽Migration marks social, aesthetic and personal change.
Momu聽‘Textile as Resistance’.Until February 16, 2020.
2.Florence: ‘Sustainable Thinking’
Sustainability is neither a fashion nor a trend: it is a real necessity.聽Aware of the move towards green issues that we are also promoting from Gratac贸s, we are especially interested in recommending this exhibition that houses the聽Salvatore Ferragamo Museum聽in Florence.聽‘Sustainable Thinking’聽invites reflection through art and fashion.
The term “sustainability” defines the human capacity to meet “the needs of the current generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”聽It is a challenge that is not limited to production methods but also implies a greater focus on the environment in general.聽Balance must be restored, beginning with a more conscious and shared way of thinking that is capable of generating new development and coexistence strategies.聽For this reason, ‘Sustainable Thinking’ exposes the work of numerous artists who reflect on sustainability.聽Some projects focus on recovering the link with nature, the use of organic materials, the need for a creative reuse of materials, the connection between sustainability and technology … An opportunity for artists, fashion designers, textile and yarn manufacturers to offer a plurality of views to inspire new sustainable projects.
Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.聽‘Sustainable Thinking’.聽Until March 8, 2020.
3.聽London.聽Tim walker
Coinciding with the exhibition dedicated to the talented designer Mary Quant, 鈥渢he mother鈥 of the iconic miniskirt, the聽Victoria & Albert Museum聽opens a new exhibition in parallel, this time dedicated to photography.聽As the name implies, ‘Tim Walker: Wonderful Things’ represents an immersive journey into the fantastic worlds created by this contemporary fashion photographer who is one of today’s most interesting profiles.聽Specifically the exhibition shows Tim Walker’s creative process via his pictures, films, photographic sets and special installations.聽The exhibition also includes an exclusive photo session made with some of the museum’s iconic garments
GOES.聽‘Tim Walker: Wonderful Things’.聽Until March 8, 2020.
4.聽Paris.聽“March茅 et D茅marche: Historie de la Chaussure”
The聽Museum of Decorative Arts聽in Paris reschedules a new fashion exhibition to capture the attention of visitors.聽On this occasion the focus of attention is footwear and its history.聽From the complement itself to a reflection on the act of walking.聽The sample is based on a 1792 shoe attributed to Marie Antoinette which was only 21 centimeters long and then, little by little, it delves into into the history that lies behind each accessory displayed.聽The sample of 500 works includes shoes, paintings, photographs, works of art and films in order to reveal more about this garment which covers our feet.
Museum of Decorative Arts.聽“March茅 et D茅marche: Historie de la Chaussure”.聽Until February 23RD, 2020.
Transparencies聽are聽associated聽traditionally聽to the mild or warm months of the year, where the high temperatures justify the apparent nudity these translucent fabrics聽given to garments.聽Until聽now, it was the norm or accepted by a majority聽and聽obeyed, in turn,聽to market demands聽and needs of聽the聽consumers.聽In the end, everything applied to a simple聽rule: more聽transparent and light fabrics in summer, more thick and opaque fabrics in winter.聽Nowadays, transparencies have lost聽their usual聽seasonality and designers of large firms have been responsible聽for聽the public wanting them at any time of the year聽by gradually including them in their collections.聽Laces,聽tulles,聽transparent embroideries …聽all the fabrics that show the skin in an insightful way. However, there is one particular one that grabs the limelight so far this year: the聽organza.
Brief historical evolution
Organza is a very fine silk fabric that is treated to maintain a certain stiffness that gives it that starchy appearance.聽Its name comes from聽Urgenc, a city in Uzbekistan聽and arrived in Europe from India in the 18th century.聽Despite being present in the continent and after its聽initial聽links聽to the maids of the聽aristocracy, it was not until the twentieth century when this fabric became popular to all social strata.聽The person responsible for this was Yves Saint Laurent who placed this fabric in the altars of the trends.聽It was in 1966 when Yves revealed his first聽look聽with transparencies.聽At first, the organza subtly revealed some parts of the body, but the scandal came two years later when she聽designed a bold聽dress that completely showed the chest.聽In the decade of the 80s, the organza allied with frills and volumes typical of that time to make exaggerated combinations, in line with the fashion of the moment that immortalized icons such as Molly Ringwald, Liz Taylor or Ladi Di.聽In the 90s, the fabric came back to life again thanks to the 1997 spring-summer Prada collection that homaged transparency and the triumph of minimalism.聽Interestingly, the Italian firm was among the first to rescue聽this fabric聽last year, probably influenced by聽the new furor聽that聽organza currently relives.
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The revelation fabric of the season
This fine,聽translucent聽and rigid聽fabric聽has the peculiarity of adding elegance, delicacy and a certain romanticism and therefore,聽can boost any聽look聽with a simple garment.聽So far, the organza had also been linked in the exclusive field of celebrations, and although it remains there, the demand for this fabric, for other occasions, has not stopped growing.
On the catwalks聽today, organza has been present in the collections of聽Ralph Lauren, Balmain,聽Dolce & Gabbana聽Simone Rocha and Fendi, to name a聽few firms, but also in the聽chains聽of high street fashion that have聽democratized聽its use聽to make it accessible to the general public.聽For example, Zara presented in summer a collection of blouses, skirts and dresses made with organza that had a fulminating success, running out of stock.
From the catwalk to the high street
If a fashion is adopted in parallel by international fashion prescribers, success is more than assured and will end up arriving sooner or later to the general public.聽Thus, of聽all the pieces made with organza, the clear favourite is the blouse聽with puffed sleeves, being the best ally to reinvent a pair of jeans.聽This piece gives a romantic touch to聽the聽looks聽without needing other accessories.聽Despite the triumph of the neutrals (white, black, beige …), it also takes the colour that can range from the most vibrant palette to the pastels, our favorites.聽This garment works even with volume skirts or聽palazzo聽trousers.
From聽Gratac贸s聽we want to show you聽some organza聽from聽our聽current collection聽and the upcoming seasons.聽In our space in Barcelona you will find聽a good assortment of聽fabrics to decide if you want to use聽the organza聽on a festive occasion, or you decide to join the trend and dazzle with a garment聽made with this fabric for dayime wear.
La 鈥渃omunidad del color鈥 crece edici贸n tras edici贸n generando una gran expectativa entre los profesionales del dise帽o que se marcan en el calendario, las citas que marca dos veces al a帽o The Color Community. Como ya sab茅is, se trata de una iniciativa dirigida por un grupo de profesionales que, desde diferentes disciplinas creativas, comparten un estudio global del color y la materia. Aunque en cada informe que se presenta participan varios colaboradores, el n煤cleo base lo forman tres profesionales: el arquitecto Pere Ortega; la dise帽adora especializada en Colour & Trim, Eva Mu帽oz; y Rosa Pujol, Textil & Colour Stylist de Gratac贸s.
Como es habitual, The Color Community se celebra en la Antigua F谩brica Damm de Barcelona, un poderoso colaborador que cede las instalaciones y dispone de refrigerios para llevar a cabo la presentaci贸n del informe y un posterior afterwork. En esta decimotercera edici贸n, se present贸 la carta de colores que marcar谩n la temporada Primavera-Verano 2021. Es un informe orientativo que como cada a帽o sirve de inspiraci贸n para los profesionales del sector.
Juan Gratac贸s: 鈥淓l tejido sin color ser铆a aburrido鈥
En nuestro caso, esta cita es siempre imperdible. No solo por la participaci贸n de Rosa Pujol, encargada del departamento de dise帽o de la empresa, sino porque Gratac贸s se desvive por las gamas crom谩ticas. 鈥淣os encanta el color y el tejido sin color ser铆a aburrido鈥, coment贸 Juan Gratac贸s minutos antes de la presentaci贸n del nuevo informe.
Esta edici贸n se inspira en el concepto de la adaptaci贸n con matices positivos. 鈥淟e sacamos la carga humilde o negativa a la palabra porque adaptarse no quiere decir conformarse, todo lo contrario鈥, detall贸 el arquitecto Pere Ortega en la presentaci贸n. As铆, 鈥Adapt鈥 se basa en la idea de ajustarse a un contexto determinado, utilizando un tipo de creatividad racional que permita buscar soluciones concisas y v谩lidas. 鈥淣os referimos a la creatividad inteligente que es fruto de una estrategia pensada y reflexionada que encaje con la situaci贸n actual. No tiene nada que ver con la genialidad del momento o un brillo puntual鈥, explic贸. La adaptaci贸n como s铆mbolo de la inteligencia, de la estrategia racional y la sabidur铆a popular.
Pere Ortega: 鈥淓ntendemos la adaptaci贸n como un tipo de creatividad inteligente que es fruto de una estrategia pensada鈥.
La propuesta crom谩tica 鈥楢dapt鈥 se estructura a trav茅s de cuatro gamas de color, texturas y materias bautizadas como, Afterwork, Baltic Sight, Natif y Modern. A continuaci贸n, os explicamos un breve resumen con sus inspiraciones.
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AFTERWORK
La primera inspiraci贸n se centra en el momento de ocio despu茅s de trabajar. Un espacio para el descanso, la diversi贸n y el hedonismo, siempre compartido. Afterwork es una propuesta vers谩til, que se adapta en estos contextos festivos a trav茅s de tonos pastel como el rosa candy o el azul beb茅 que contrastan con algunos fl煤ores que le dan ese punto de luz necesario en cualquier fiesta: se ti帽en de verde lima, amarillo y fucsia. En esta inspiraci贸n se introduce el concepto del tono transparente a trav茅s de superficies v铆treas y texturas y estampados que imitan el reflejo del agua.
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BALTIC SIGHT
La segunda gama es m谩s introspectiva y toma como fuente de inspiraci贸n el mar B谩ltico que ba帽a los pa铆ses del norte de Europa. Es una propuesta fr铆a y racional que apela al confort y a la intimidad en esa b煤squeda de los refugios interiores. La gama de azules se inspira en las aguas profundas en tonos fr铆os y gris谩ceos, verdes apagados y los tonos neutros como el blanco, el negro y el beige. Como nota de color juega con algunos tonos rojizos. La propuesta tambi茅n hace un gui帽o a los patrones estructurados, las siluetas arquitect贸nicas, los estampados lineales y los accesorios verticales. Se trabaja el concepto de silencio.
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NATIF
La tercera inspiraci贸n es un homenaje a la autenticidad, a la tierra y a la naturaleza. Representa un giro hacia la artesan铆a y tambi茅n quiere transmitir la multiculturalidad con dise帽os sin denominaci贸n de origen. Todo forma parte del todo. La paleta de colores de Natif es vibrante con tonos poderosos que van desde los naranjas saturados, los morados, los azules m谩gicos y los rojos tierra. Las tonalidades verde se vinculan con las hojas y los bosques. La singularidad cultural se consigue a trav茅s de los estampados florales y los que imitan el trazo manual, los motivos geom茅tricos y los acabados r煤sticos.
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MODERN
Por 煤ltimo, la cuarta inspiraci贸n representa un pasaje por las otras gamas. La ciudad y su vida interior es el motor de la creatividad y la gama de colores expresa como los individuos se adaptan a la ciudad, a la vez que se mimetizan en sus edificios, asfalto, huertos urbanos, zonas verdes鈥 Forman parte de la urbe las 24 horas. Para expresarlo se utiliza una paleta crom谩tica muy sensitiva con colores que aportan vitalidad. Los falsos crudos, los verdes apagados, el azul petr贸leo, el rosa p谩lido, el denim, el naranja exc茅ntrico鈥onviven con siluetas minimalistas, materias tableadas y estampados lineales.
Checks have always been present in the history of contemporary fashion.聽Moreover, they are part of those unperturbed tendencies, oblivious to cycles, which are repeated and renewed without losing their identity.
A priori, when we talk of a check print the British style comes to mind with its classic costumes, the tartan reminiscent of the Scots or the vichy checks that refer us to the age of innocence.聽It is always time to opt for checks, whether in the winter or summer collections.聽The novelty is that today many checks break barriers and leave their comfort zone as they take over garments, accessories or complements which hitherto were less conventional.
We are going to analyze the three most common check prints on the cat-walks of the new Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 season:
Prince of Wales
It is a type of two-colour fabric design in the form of complex frames, sometimes with a third colour as a profile.聽It alternately combines large checks with a milrayas design along with smaller squares in crow’s feet.聽Frequently the different grey scales (or muted colours) are used as base colours and sometimes one more colour is added to that base tone, usually blue.聽The origin of this print is popular as it is a fabric used by the workers, although it was the Duke of Windsor (Eduard VIII) who ended up popularizing it in the 1930s and spreading it throughout the world.
聽When playing with the black and white binomial, this type of plaid print becomes a timeless classic, perfect in any wardrobe.聽This season, under a聽preppy聽style seen especially on cat-walks of Marc Jacobs, Prada, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Chlo茅 and Marni, together with many others who opt for this pattern.
Tartan
It is perhaps the most identifiable picture.聽A fabric whose pattern is formed by horizontal and vertical lines that draw pictures of different colours.聽Of Scottish origin, tartan is associated with the clans that used them to distinguish themselves.聽Each family adapted particular designs, as well as colours that identified them as members of each clan.聽There are named tartans like McAndrew, McQueen, Douglas … even modern designs like the Royal Stewart, created by Vivienne Westwood.聽In its origin the tartan was made of wool, although today it is shaped through several fabrics.聽At present, with the appearance of new materials the word tartan has gone from defining the fabric to the design, regardless of where it is shaped.
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Tartan accepts countless colours and different combinations, the key lies in personal taste.聽The most common are the most classic in red or green or black and white and in XXL size.聽In the late twentieth century tartan was also associated with a more transgressive aesthetic and found adherents in the punk movement of the late 70s with designers such as Vivienne Westwood and grunge and its nineties counterculture.聽To cite some examples, at this time John Galliano and Alexander McQueen adapted it.
Window frame checks
We are talking about a type of simple frame that makes squares thanks to the fine lines that make it up.聽Thus on a dark background a light line is added that draws a broad picture.聽As a base the window frame can have a tartan (with finer wool) or a tweed (which gives it a more rustic look).聽This type of check became popular in the 30s in Britain when people began to look for more daring and informal prints that maintained that classical dandy image, but with certain licenses.
Today window frame checks are widespread and are used almost equally in winter and summer fashion collections.聽We refer you to the last collection made by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel where you can observe these types of checks mixed with other fabrics and prints.
The current Gratac贸s collection also contains many plaid fabrics.聽Here are some references for you to get inspired.
Viernes 13 septiembre 2019
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
Jueves 05 septiembre 2019
We kick off the season talking about another exhibition that extols the female figure and gives a new vision of the “body-fashion” relationship.聽Its title is evocative:聽鈥El Cuerpo Inventado鈥. (The Invented Body).聽A sample organized by聽Collectors聽Collective聽in Madrid that highlights the aesthetic canons that have remained in fashion since the early twentieth century to the present day, providing a new dialectic of evolution and changes that are especially appreciated in women’s clothing .
4聽silhouettes and a century
The silhouette is responsible for creating the spirit of time聽beyond colours, fabrics or trimmings.聽It is precisely the silhouette that captures the aesthetic canon of an era.
In spite of its apparent richness and variety, the history of Western feminine dress has been repeating its forms throughout the centuries:聽there are聽only a handful of silhouettes with which the dressmakers have invented their creations.聽For example and focusing on the last 100 years, the silhouettes that have had more relevance in the twentieth century are four: tubular silhouette, triangular silhouette and double triangle silhouette, globular silhouette and anatomical silhouette.聽In addition, all of them have a history in previous centuries.聽Of course: the prevalence is not exclusive.聽The silhouettes can coexist in time, although the protagonism of one of them will be the one that defines the era.
In turn, the exhibition also proposes a reflection on “the tyranny of the invisible” and the naked body, a movement that has been consolidating in recent years to reach today unsuspected limits.
Collections and creators
‘The Invented Body‘聽is formed of pieces by important fashion collectors (Antoni de聽Montpalau, Quinto, Maite M铆nguez and L贸pez-Trabado), as well as three prestigious international renowned museums such as the Costume Museum of Madrid,聽MUDE :聽Lisbon聽Design and Fashion Museum and the Fashion聽Museum of Santiago de Chile.
The exposed designs are part of the most relevant names on the international scene such as聽Lanvin, Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy,聽Mainbocher, Versace,聽Yssey聽Miyake,聽Azzaro聽,聽Azzedine聽Ala茂a聽, Pierre聽Cardin聽, Yves Saint Lauren, Pucci, Christian Lacroix,聽Commes聽des聽Gar莽ons聽or Gucci.聽There are also first-class Spanish designer models such as maestro Crist贸bal Balenciaga,聽Pedro Rodr铆guez, Lorenzo聽Caprile聽,聽脕gatha聽Ruiz de la Prada, Jes煤s del Pozo, Leandro Cano, Ernesto聽Artillo聽, Antonio Velasco or Josep Font.
Trendy icons of yesterday and today
Throughout the history of the suit, fashion has used influential people to spread itself.聽Until the nineteenth century, it was the aristocracy who used to have this mission, but at the end of that century this trend begins to change and it is women in the field of culture and entertainment who become fashion prescribers for the dissemination of fashions.聽Next to a specific silhouette there is usually an influential woman legitimizing it: how could we disassociate the silhouette that narrows the waist, projects the breasts and widens the hips of actress Marilyn Monroe?
Therefore, the exhibition also includes the role of these famous women who have consolidated the different aesthetic canons, taking a tour of the聽most influential聽names聽in fashion of the twentieth century,聽with dresses that belonged to Madonna, Claudia Schiffer, Rita聽Hayworth, Audrey Hepburn,聽Sophia聽Loren, Lady Gaga, or even her majesty Do帽a Letizia, among other relevant women.
‘The Invented Body聽‘ of聽Collectors聽Collective聽opens next Thursday, September 12th at General Per贸n Avenue in Madrid and can be visited until December 15th.
Fotos: Alfonso Ohnur
The rise of聽Dominnico was foreseen聽.聽It was聽just a聽matter of time for his聽meteoric career聽to take off.聽And this聽ascension聽has only just begun.聽Now, the聽restless聽Domingo Rodr铆guez has landed聽himself a new achievement that consolidates him within the map of young promises of Spanish fashion聽: becoming the winner of聽the聽Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent.
“Winning this award means fulfilling a dream.It represents the start of my firm and the beginning of a new stage for this project “, explained the young designer after winning the prestigious award.In fact, the designer has already begun to gain fame outside our borders.At only 24 years of age, Dominic has dressed personalities from the world of entertainment such as Lady Gaga, Rita Ora or Rosal铆a, who have worn the outfits ,made in part with our fabrics on tours around the world.
His impeccable dressmaking, his huge national and international projection, his early maturity and his commercial outlook have been some of the attributes that have fascinated the jury.聽A project with a speech of its own and true to its essence that has made him the winner of the 14th edition of this contest that rewards young talents.
Domingo Rodr铆guez: 鈥inning this award means fulfilling a dream and the beginning of a new stage for Dominnico鈥
An ode to Generation聽Z
The award-winning collection聽,聽presented on the Madrid catwalk聽,聽is called聽Harajuku Kids聽and it is inspired by Club Kids, the London generation of the nineties, but also in the new digital era, centreed above all on social networks.聽Artists like聽Andy Dixon, Antoni Tudisco, Six N. Five, or the聽influencer聽Ruby Gloom聽have also been taken into account in the conception of the collection.聽A proposal聽that also takes into account the urban tribes of Japan and is conceived as聽agender, away from labels with聽extravagant聽shapes and silhouettes聽that are an invitation to individualism and character.
The collection,聽replete with Gratac贸s fabrics, is impregnated with textures, sequins, laminates, tulles, overlays and聽volumes wrapped in a range of pastel colours.聽In this way, inheritance, actuality and even future mix thanks to a sweetness and femininity聽unusual in Dominnico聽that advances to gain maturity in its style.
Next stop Georgia
Beyond the recognition, the prize includes the possibility of a catwalk next November at the international Mercedes-Benz Tilti Fashion Week in Georgia.聽A moment in which the designer from Alicante will already be presenting the winter collection of the following year.聽In this way, Domingo Rodr铆guez joins the successful group of great young talents who got this award back in the day, such as Outsiders Division, C茅lia Valverde, Juan聽Carlos Pajares, Ela Fidalgo, Xavi Reyes, Mar铆a Cl猫 Leal, David Catal谩n, Ernesto Naranjo or Pepa Salazar.