The Colour Community has just presented the new report of colours and materials that will influence the Autumn-Winter season 2020-2021 in the world of design and fashion. The initiative, led by three colour professionals , was presented, as usual, in the Old Estrella Damm Factory in Barcelona before the watchful eye of a hundred enthusiasts from the sector. We remind you that the founding team is made up of the architect Pere Ortega , the designer specialized in Colour & Trim , Eva Muñoz ; and Rosa Pujol , Textile & Colour Stylist from Gratacós . In each issue new partners are added to this “mother team”who bring their vision and help shape the new range of colours and materials that will inspire the new season. It is an initiative that is repeated twice a year and that has our support. ” Gratacós always has the doors open to our fashion- area, for every lover of fabric, texture and colour,” declares Juan Gratacós at the beginning of the presentation of the report .
Juan Gratacós : ” Our fashion-area is always open to lovers of fabric, textures and colour”
On this occasion the season is based on the concept of ‘ Multiple ‘ and consists of a reflection in a positive key about the future society where the line between the real and the virtual will be more diffuse than ever . ” Currently this virtual reality exists on social networks or in videogames but little by little it will become as tangible as what we now call reality,” explains Pere Ortega in presenting the report. The ‘ Multiple ‘ proposal , in turn, is articulated through four colour ranges and materials which are named On , Inside , Balanced and Metronome .
Pere Ortega: “Currently this virtual reality exists on social networks or in videogames but little by little, it will become as tangible as what we now call reality”
1.- On
The first inspiration appeals to dynamism, to the creation of a dialogue with new realities that are virtual. It is a dynamic and versatile range that creates products connected to the human being in a digital environment. The shades chosen to conceptualize it are the cold ones in their most attractive version: metallic greys, iridescents, smoky blues, bright blacks and touches of yellow that play in contrast. The range of industrial and futuristic themes plays with plastic, oily materials, straight and curved architectural lines and artificial shapes. Fantasy under control.
2. Inside
The second range is more dense and theatrical than the first. It works with the realities that look back at the past, in a kind of retrospective. The shades that are used to give it shape are the browns, purples, deep blues and the metallic range that always appears in each of the four inspirations as a common link. Floral prints, organic shapes, sinuous lines, elements of nature, upholstery … all these elements influence this intimate range that takes as its model the baroque of Versailles in its most contemporary version.
3. Balanced
The third inspiration is based on the concept of balance and chromatic harmonies. It is a modest range that is inspired by the shapes and textures of nature and works with craftsmanship in a very folky way. The predominant colours refer to autumn: the beiges, earth-coloured , whites, metallics and forest greens mixed with vibrant blues. Rough surfaces,skins, the most basic geometric elements and tribal influence are also treated in this folk range.
4. Metronome
Finally, the fourth inspiration is based on the metronome’s rhythm, with elements in movement that follow its beat: it is a work of colours that come and go and in turn play on the contrasts. This range belongs to the world of the city: it is urban, cosmopolitan and youthful. It is inspired by all the multiplicity of people, tribes and individuals that coexist within the same community. There are plenty of grey shades, silver and metallic details on smooth surfaces that contrast with graphic elements and arty patterns. Denim and overlays of garments, understood as a show of expression, configure the different identities that make up the same city.
Are you ready to play? To play the game in its broadest sense. The game as fun, where there is space for experimentation mixed with hints of entertainment and large doses of curiosity. In this new season that we are premiering we pay homage to leisure, to recreation, to freedom in a collection that is inspired, as could not be otherwise, by the concept of ‘ Play ‘. It is a presentation which is both sophisticated and casual, which focuses on colour, movement with light fabrics and craftsmanship for the warmer months of the year. This Spring-Summer 2019 collection has a large dose of creativity and ingenuity on the part of our design team, who make Gratacós a luxury fabric company with a defined style and personality. So let’s enjoy the latest creation we have prepared with the intention once again to surprise and excite. Let’s play together: Let’s play!
“Play is a sophisticated and casual presentation which at the same time goes for colour, movement and craftsmanship”
General concept
‘Play’ is a sympathetic collection that seeks at first glance to combine apparent simplicity with products that are attractive and appealing. It is an aesthetic presentation based on timeless articles far away from extravagance and artificiality, but these have to provide a distinctive feature, a certain personality. We are not seeking the versatile and basic, which is somewhat insipid, but rather to give it a creative turn. In parallel we are bringing back the characteristic features of folk culture and opting for craftsmanship to present traditional fabrics with rustic aspects and manual details.
“We are seeking to combine apparent simplicity with attractive and seductive products at first glance”
Fabrics
The objective of this collection is to revitalize the luxury of textures and materials. To achieve the new basics we use impeccable fabrics with clean and serene appearances. We also go for colourful Jacquards with tactile reliefs, fluid fabrics of silk or polyester of delicate appearance, gauzes with transparencies, dense satins, iridescent materials that captive the light or floral prints of watercolors. At the same time, within the folk trend, we are bringing back granular textures, fibrous and light aspects that show the relief through the thread-work, the hand-made reliefs and the embroidery with motifs inspired by nature.
“We are revitalizing the luxury of textures and materials”
Colours
The range of colours evolves from the natural to the artificial. Thus pastel shades and soft,sweet shades give way to the most vivid colours in a smooth transition and in a key feminine way . The most vibrant tones are used for details. ‘Play’ is also a collection dedicated to light, that’s why it also opts for the iridescent, transparent and nacreous with a nod and a wink to things nautical.
Discover some inspirations in our new lookbook Spring – Summer 2019! click here.
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Pink is no longer just a colour traditionally attributed to femininity, charm or politeness. The shade that comes from the name of a flower has been stripped of its delicate attributes to present brand new symbolisms that evoke courage, strength or bravery. Pink Power has arrived in the fashion industry. We are not talking about just any pink. This shade of pink refers to a shocking pink, the strong and bright pink that has something of violet and that the colour experts call “magenta “.
Did you know…
Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli , who brought the ideas of surrealist painters to fashion, launched a new colour in 1931: shocking pink , a mixture of magenta and a hint of white (similar to fuchsia),a colour that the designer used in fashion to provoke and challenge the established norms. In parallel he also created a perfume with the same name and it was sold in a box of that colour, inside which was a bottle with the shape of a female bust. This launch literally left the audience in shock because nobody had believed that pink could be so aggressive. This pink does not have any of the traditional feminine qualities.
The pink revolution
Pink is and still is in vogue. Apart from the shade linked to a generation, millennial pink, the fashion industry has taken advantage of the pull of popularity of this controversial colour to increase the presence of the shade in clothes, complements and accessories with its brightness and a certain rebelliousness. Pink shows charisma. It was not for nothing that it was one of the favourite colours displayed on the red carpet of the 2019 Oscars. And it is well-known that on the most powerful and influential red carpet in the world there is nothing left to chance.
The actress Julia Roberts wore pink when she presented the award for best film ‘Green Book’ clad in a dress by Elie Saab, a design with asymmetrical cut, gathered at the waist and low with ruffles of different length that put the finishing touch to the gala. Also in vibrant pink was the much- commented styling of Linda Cardellini signed by Schiaparelli made in tulle with V-neckline, asymmetric length and a delicate tail that extended along the floor. Or the stunning design by Valentino with a raised neck worn by British actress and model Gemma Chan.
Pink was also the favourite color for Sarah Paulson, the actress of ‘American Horror Story ‘ who succumbed to its power with an expansive dress with a cut- out opening by Brandon Maxwell. For her part the British actress Helen Mirren wore a flowing dress by Schiaparelli, a creation with V-shaped neckline and ruching at the waist that played with different intensities of pink. Angela Basset, one of the actresses in the film ‘Black Panther ‘ also opted for the brightest and most metallic version of this colour in a ReemAcra model with asymmetric neckline.
There is no doubt that pink will give us much to talk about in 2019.
The news left the fashion industry in shock. Somehow it is orphaned after losing one of its flagship (and controversial) contemporary designers. The era of Karl Lagerfeld has come to an end and perhaps it is still hard to believe that there could be limits for this tireless mind that stayed in the business until the end . The iconic couturier of German origin died last Tuesday at age 85 in Paris. There were rumours that Karl’s health was weakened or that his retirement was imminent . In fact his absence from the spring-summer 2019 fashion show last January had already triggered the first alarms, since the Kaiser of fashion had not missed any of his appointments since his beginnings in Chanel in 1983. He was considered the longest-living designer to be at the head of a maison de couture. Together with Armani, who remained active and a creative director well into his 80s , he was a recognized artist world-wide. We should never forget that homage was paid to Karl Lagerfeld and his career at the British Fashion Awards in 2016.
Condolences for the loss of Karl Lagerfeld have poured in and prominent among the avalanche of celebrated personalities in the sector who have expressed their grief and praised the genius of the Kaiser are the statements put out by the three companies for which he worked right up to his last moments : Fendi and Chanel .”We owe him a lot: his good taste and talent were the most exceptional I’ve ever seen,” declared his friend Bernard Arnault , president and CEO of the luxury empire LVMH. “I will always remember his immense imagination, his ability to conceive new trends, his inexhaustible energy, the virtuosity of his drawings , his carefully guarded independence, his encyclopedic culture and his unique humour and eloquence.” For its part , via a statement Chanel has also expressed grief for the loss, praising the figure of Karl as key to the process of resurrection of the French maison . In the words of Alain Wertheimer, CEO of Chanel…. “thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which greatly contributed to the success of Chanel throughout the world . ” Karl also headed the company with his own name. Pier Paolo Righi, CEO of Karl Lagerfeld stated… “the world has lost an icon. Karl Lagerfeld was a creative genius, influential, inventive, strong and passionate. He leaves behind an extraordinary legacy as one of the great designers of our time. “
The man who resurrected Chanel
With his extensive and prolific career, the versatile Karl Lagerfeld , the Kaiser has gone down in history as the artistic director who managed to resurrect a company that was considered antiquated. Yes, we are talking about Chanel , a business that 36 years ago was in decline. “We have lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche at the beginning of the 80s to reinvent the brand,” Chanel president Alain Wertheimer recalled in the same statement. Thus Karl inherited the creativity of Gabrielle’s empire in January 1983 and with it the most difficult thing: he managed to modernize the classics of the famous maison without losing its essence: the tweed ensembles, the black dresses, the iconic handbags, the pearls, the two- coloured shoes , the camelias … Everything that happened under the lens of Karl received a new re-focus in accordance with the clientèle and the needs of each era. This positioned Chanel again as a global and transversal business model that marked the foundations of the current luxury industry.
His work had no end and the rhythms were tachycardic. Lagerfeld created 10 annual collections for the French house and another two for the Italian Fendi. Now the artistic direction falls to Virginie Viard , his right hand. Viard worked hand in hand with the Kaiser for more than 30 years and in the same statement Chanel commissioned her ” to continue the legacy of Gabrielle and Karl. “
Nothing by halves
Karl Lagerfeld never left anyone indifferent. Neither by ethics nor by aesthetics. He was not a man who did things by halves. His style was his arms and exterior armour : always dressed in black, spotless white shirt , hair with short ponytail , dozens of rings, mittens and his unmistakable sunglasses. “I’m a caricature of myself, and I like it. For me, the carnival in Venice lasts all year, “he said. Nor did his controversial judgments pass unnoticed, a real “ kick in the teeth ” for those who received them. Decribing the singer Adele as “a little too fat” or controversial phrases like “I hate children”, “The middle class does not have enough class”, “Buy small sizes and eat less food , “ Floral prints are for fat middle-aged women “, ” Be politically correct, but don’t bother other people rest with conversations about being so… were some of these pearls from Lagerfeld .
With regard to successors: To Viard it is already clear that she will succeed on Chanel’s throne, although the question now is whether she will become a transitional designer in the face of the pool of names that are always lurking in this constant ‘Game of Thrones’ of fashion. And as far as inheritance is concerned, Karl was single and without children, although surely his mediatic cat Choupette will inherit some of his fortune. He certainly was bearing her in mind: “ Choupette is like a reserved woman. She has personality. She has lunch and dinner with me at table with her own food and doesn’t touch my food. She doesn’t like eating on the floor. She sleeps on a pillow and even knows how to use an Ipad . “ She knew his most tender and homely side.
Foto portada y making of de la campaña 2019 con Penélope Cruz: Cortesía de Chanel
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Sequins are not just synonymous with celebration. In any case, we will not deny the opposite either, because it is evident that during the festive periods -mainly between Christmas and New Year’s Eve- it is when they shine at their maximum splendor. But why do we insist on booking this shiny fabric for special occasions?
The change has already begun. In recent seasons, we have seen how, little by little, sequins have conquered the ground featuring in the daily outfits of celebrities and prominent personalities from the world of fashion. In various sizes from XS to XL, creating colourful graphic mosaics or blocks of colour, in this transition to street fashion, the sequins have appeared in all its versions to give that radiant air to daily looks.
How to combine these brilliant accounts in day to day wear? The key, more than in the fabric, lies in the garment itself and in the way it is combined. The star garment of the season is the narrow midi skirt. An ideal piece to add shine to a daily outfit without the risk of making mistakes. This garment can be combined with neutral garments such as basic sweaters, white shirts or coats in muted tones, which attenuate the brilliant effect of the sequins. In this way an elegant, daring and youthful outfit is achieved.
Beyond skirts or narrow trousers, you can use other garments with sequins that are also easily combined with a vest top, a shirt or a thin jumper. A trick to integrate it into your wardrobe is to play the overlays: it is an effective resource to combine several garments subtracting the bling bling effect of the sequins.
Finally, there is a garment that maintains all of its power if it is made with sequins: short jackets and blazers. A versatile and useful option for evening wear. To reduce its intensity, it is advisable to wear a black and white look underneath. Even so, its shiny effect means that, with sequins, it never goes unnoticed.
In Gratacós , we have a selection of very varied and colourful sequin fabrics for you to invent with them the garments that will star in the looks of the new season. Imagination to the power!
Fashion and illustration have always maintained a very close bond. In fact this alliance is not a new phenomenon. In the last century drawing was used as a vehicle for transmitting trends, shaping the most creative designs in the sector. The illustration creates a visual language that connects with art and provides added values such as originality, authenticity, identity. This discipline is also capable of appealing to consumers, especially young people, who see in the illustration a channel of genuine expression to show a product or a brand.
Currently the illustration is undergoing a golden new era with a batch of artists who translate into advertisements, campaigns, collections, lookbooks, fashion magazines … their unique approaches to the rhythm of the business they represent, increasingly innovative supports that manage to create that desired surprise effect. These neo-illustrators become known through social networks (especially on Instagram) as a platform for global dissemination of their work. The well-known digital revolution of individual work where each like makes the work of the artist more universal.
This boom has also led to the fact that, in recent years the line between art and fashion illustration has faded and these creators no longer become described with the adjective “commercial”. Today, many contemporary art collectors are desperately searching for original works by these illustrators, while at the same time specialized art galleries are emerging. It is the moment for claiming fashion illustration as an art form in itself.
Aware of this new boom and power, the ABC Museum has promoted an exhibition that covers the phenomenon closely. Thus, under the title ‘Fine stamp. Illustration and fashion ‘, the exhibition includes a total of twenty-two artists (national and international, emerging and established) who work with illustration and the catwalk, with more than 150 original works on display. “It is the moment for claiming fashion illustration as an art form in itself, and what better than coinciding with its Second Golden Age and bringing together those creators who have revolutionized the sector in recent decades” said Jesús Cano, curator of the exhibition.
“It’s the moment for claiming fashion illustration as an art form in itself”
The story begins with the companies of maestros such as Mats Gustafson, David Downton, Aurore de la Morinerie, François Berthoud, Jean-Philippe Delhomme, Unskilled Worker, Gill Button, Hiroshi Tanabe, Jason Brooks, Tanya Ling or Jordi Labanda, and which continues with voices like Ricardo Fumanal, Richard Haines, Jowy Maasdamme or Richard Kilroy. More than half of the selected artists are women who are leading the way. Among them we find names such as Blair Breitenstein, Laura Gulshani, Inés Maestre, Hellen Bullock, Amelie Hegardt, Cecilia Carlstedt or Rosie McGuinness.
The exhibition #FINAESTAMPA_ aims to synthesize this precise moment through works, aesthetics and techniques that are used in the second decade of the 21st century. It is an X-ray of a subjective and abstract discipline that creates emotions and proximity, where the product stops being something physical to turn into an abstract, appetizing and inspirational entity. The exhibition is also a tribute to the personal story of each illustrator featuring in the exhibition.
#FINAESTAMPA_ can be seen from January 15th to May 19th at the museum’s headquarters and is part of the official programme of the second edition of the Madrid Design Festival.
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
These are good times for metallic shades, which acquire their own identity within fashion, beyond their traditional connection with parties, luxury and excess. Thus in the past seasons we have seen how metallic fabrics have gradually taken over the catwalk in garments, accessories and complements that embrace a more casual style, exploring the urban and the sporty in an aesthetic festival that interweaves contrasting forms and volumes.
Yet the proximity of the Christmas season almost “forces us” to recover the conventional facet of metallic tones because it is precisely at this time of year when they have more presence within the festivities. From among all the fabrics that radiate their own light we are focusing on the two brilliant colours par excellence that are sometimes opposed: gold and silver.
Gold Rush
Gold has always been associated with opulence, classic style, baroque ornamentation and luxury at its best. It is the colour of wealth and majesty, of the taste for excess, a warm and ultra-luminous shade that empowers, shines and overwhelms in turn because it does not accept half measures. The favourite of King Midas moves between the classic and the modern with fabrics that capture the attention of all eyes. It is impossible to go unnoticed!
Gold takes over, for example, in fabrics with rhinestones, in pleats and Iamé, creating golden patinas that create fascinating optical games. It is also present in fabrics with sequins, together with other more discreet shades such as old gold or in rich floral embroidery combined with other colours such as red or black.
Futuristic silver
Far from being “the younger brother” of gold, the colour silver has in recent seasons acquired its own identity by exploring its most rebellious facet. In fashion it is also a luxurious hue that is associated with modernity, movement, technology and innovation. In this sense the colour silver is seen as the symbol of progress, of the functional, dynamic and technical, showing a great power of attraction linked to future advances such as in the field of space engineering. Hence the colour silver is sometimes linked with futuristic utopias.
This cool shade moves away from smooth fabrics and appropriates original textures such as the wrinkles associated with aluminum foil. On the catwalks of the current season there are Calvin Klein dresses 205W39NYC, iridescent nuances from Emporio Armani or fabrics with Balmain hologram effect. Finally mesh fabrics and large shiny sequins are also abundant, creating a seductive mirror effect, two classics that form the essence of Paco Rabanne.
