Irving Penn.Centennial by Fundación MOP

He was an icon of fashion photography and his revolutionary vision can now be remembered in Spain. The Marta Ortega Pérez Foundation (MOP Foundation) takes a further step in creating bridges between photography and fashion with the exhibition Irving Penn: Centennial. This is the largest retrospective dedicated to the talented American photographer ever presented in Spain. A symbolic exhibition that covers the 70 years of his prolific career, which has already been shown in New York, Paris and Berlin.

Irving Penn: Centennial is an exhibition organized by The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, in collaboration with the Irving Penn Foundation and curated by Jeff L. Rosenheim , Joyce Frank Menschel Curator in Charge of Photography at The Met . The exhibition can be visited free of charge until the 1^st May 2025 at the MOP Foundation exhibition centre, located in the port area of A Coruña.

A journey into the soul of Irving Penn’s photography

Created in 2017 to mark the centenary of the artist’s birth, Irving Penn: Centennial is a tribute to his prolific career in all its breadth, from his beginnings in the late 1930s to the early years of the 21st century. What is most interesting about the exhibition is that it allows us to delve deeper into the photographer’s work beyond his best-known projects. This is precisely the aim of the exhibition: to cover all facets of Penn’s work, including fashion photography, delicate female nudes, floral compositions and still lifes, the still lifes of everyday objects that he was fond of throughout his life.

The exhibition also highlights the portraits of personalities who made him famous, such as his muse Lisa Fonssagrives, Pablo Picasso and Marlene Dietrich, as well as his photographic series documenting ordinary people captured in different corners of the world. It also includes unique pieces such as the backdrop of his studio and unpublished works that allow the visitor to delve into his creative process. Altogether, the exhibition brings together more than 160 works that offer a complete overview of the career of an artist who revolutionised the visual language of the 20th century.

Irving Penn.Centennial by Fundación MOP

A democratic look

The exhibition is the perfect excuse to decipher Irving Penn’s legacy and understand his role in fashion photography, a field that transcended to create a unique visual universe. His motto, “less is more”, remains a reference for artists and creatives, reminding us that beauty can be found in the essential and the simple.

Vogue magazine redefined visual standards through a style that combined simplicity with sophistication. His images, characterized by a minimalist use of space and neutral backgrounds, transformed the perception of commercial and fine art photography. With an avant-garde approach, Penn turned the everyday into art, immortalizing everything from iconic figures such as Audrey Hepburn and Miles Davis to objects as common as cigarette butts.

The exhibition also highlights his technical mastery: Penn revived techniques such as platinum-palladium printing and experimented with materials to achieve a unique quality in his photographs. Each image reveals his ability to capture the essence of his subjects, transcending documentation and creating pieces charged with emotion and symbolism.

Supplementary materials

To enrich the experience, the MOP Foundation has exclusively published a catalogue in Spanish of the exhibition, a must for admirers of Penn’s work and 20th-century photography. This volume brings together almost 300 images, including iconic and previously unpublished works, accompanied by essays that explore the main themes of his career.

In addition, as every year, visitors will be able to enjoy a new set designed specifically for the exhibition, both inside the warehouse and in the outer space. The venue has also reopened its bookstore, specialising in photography, fashion, design and other artistic disciplines.

A legacy that endures

Irving Penn: Centennial exhibition becomes the fourth major retrospective promoted by the MOP Foundation, reaffirming its commitment to photography, fashion and its connection with A Coruña. Since its creation, the Foundation has promoted highly relevant exhibitions, such as Peter Lindbergh. Untold Stories (2021-22), Steven Meisel 1993: A Year in Photographs (2022-23) and Helmut Newton: Fact & Fiction (2023-24).

Photos by:

Irving Penn.  Picture of self, Cuzco, 1948© The Irving Penn Foundation

Irving Penn. Marlene Dietrich, New York, 1948 © The Irving Penn Foundation

Irving Penn. Woman in Chicken Hat (Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn), New York, 1949 © The Irving Penn Foundation

Irving Penn. Naomi Sims in Scarf, New York, ca. 1969 © The Irving Penn Foundation

The Christmas season is here, and with it comes the first flashes of lights in the streets, company dinners, intimate gatherings with friends and family, and big celebrations that invite us to show off our best clothes. It’s the perfect time to stand out with special garments that stand out for their elegance and sophistication.

At Gratacós, we understand this need and, therefore, each collection includes carefully designed fabrics, made with the premium quality that special occasions demand. In this new blog entry, we want to guide you through our star fabrics so that you shine during the holidays, whether in a subtle way or with a dazzling touch. Discover their characteristics and learn how to make the most of each one for your most special moments. We will tell you about it below!

Velvet

Few fabrics inspire as much fascination as velvet. Its soft texture, with a short pile surface that changes direction when brushed, and its ability to delicately reflect light make it an irresistible classic for the holiday season. Plus, its slight elasticity makes it perfect for creating elegant and comfortable garments that stand out at any event.

Velvet evokes instant luxury and is incredibly versatile, especially for evening looks. From long evening gowns to full suits with fitted blazers and palazzo pants, this fabric adds a touch of sophistication to every look. The best part? At Gratacós we offer you a wide range of shades so you can find the one that best suits your style and the occasion.

Discover all the possibilities of velvet here.

Silk

Since ancient times, silk has been a symbol of luxury and sophistication. This natural fabric is distinguished by its extreme softness, natural shine and fluid drape, making it the perfect choice for garments that seek to elegantly adapt to the body. Silk has an impeccable drape, ideal for dresses and blouses that, without losing their shape, envelop with unique delicacy.

For the Christmas festivities, nothing beats a long silk dress with a lingerie style in metallic tones or deep red, ideal for a New Year’s party. If you prefer a more groundbreaking style, a silk blouse combined with high-waisted trousers creates a sophisticated and modern look. Another must-have? A long silk skirt, combined with a knitted or cashmere sweater, for an outfit that perfectly balances femininity and comfort.

Discover our silk fabrics here.

Brocade

Ornate and full of character, brocade evokes baroque splendour with its homage to excess and intricate floral or geometric patterns woven in metallic threads. With its coarse texture and imposing presence, this fabric is perfect for creating structured garments that stand out on any special occasion.

What possibilities does it offer? A brocade dress is the perfect choice for very formal events, but this fabric can also be adapted to a more contemporary style. For example, a brocade jacket combined with high-waisted jeans creates a modern and sophisticated look with an unexpected twist. In addition, brocade is ideal for striking layers such as coats, jackets or blazers that add a regal air to any outfit.

Opt for a brocade garment for Christmas Eve dinners or events where you want to convey elegance and a subtle touch of royalty.

Jacquard knitting suggestions that you will fall in love with here.

Sequins

If there is a fabric that captures the essence of the festive season, it is sequins. This timeless classic reflects light in a spectacular way, becoming the centre of attention. But at Gratacós we go one step further: this season, sequins are reinvented with maxi versions and combinations of 2 or 3 colours that create irresistible and unique mosaics.

Do you already know how to combine them? If not, here are some ideas: go for a head-to-toe shiny dress to dazzle at any event or dare to try less conventional options, such as jackets with metallic embellishments or even accessories such as bags. And if you are looking for an infallible look, a midi sequin dress in gold or silver tones is perfect to stand out on New Year’s Eve with elegance and glamour.

Discover our most original sequins here.

Taffeta

When we think of glamorous pieces with volume and structure, taffeta is the undisputed star. This lightweight yet firm fabric stands out for its rigidity, which allows it to hold its shape, and its subtle sheen, making it a classic choice for ball gowns and evening wear.

Design ideas? Taffeta is ideal for dresses with full skirts or layered details that need structure. Bright hues like silver or emerald further enhance its elegance, making it the perfect choice for high-end events like Christmas galas or New Year’s Eve dinners in luxurious settings.

Discover our seasonal taffetas here.

And if you’re looking for something even more special, explore our premium collection with fabrics designed for unforgettable occasions. Plus, our surprise boxes with four fabrics from past collections will inspire you to create unique and magical looks for this holiday season.

Featured in the collage: Lola Casademunt by Maite, Fely Campo, Álvaro Calafat, JCPajares, and Malne for MBFWMadrid. Courtesy of the brands.

At Gratacós, we are always keeping an eye on the most important catwalk shows in Spanish fashion, looking for those surprising looks that are created with our fabrics. We love to see how each designer adds their personal touch and transforms our fabrics into authentic works of art in motion. This constant search for creativity and innovation inspires us deeply.

At the latest edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, held in September 2024, we confirmed once again that many designers trust in the quality and versatility of our fabrics to bring their collections to life. This year, artisanal and sustainable fabrics have taken centre stage, highlighting a clear focus on recycled, natural and technological materials. Not only do they make garments look amazing, but they also tell stories full of purpose.

Here are some of the most outstanding looks from the Spring -Summer 2025 collections, where our fabrics have been an essential part. It is fascinating to see how each designer contributes their unique vision and plays with textures to set trends that do not go unnoticed.

Alvaro Calafat

In his new collection ODDITIES ODYSSEY, Álvaro Calafat takes us on a journey into the past, evoking the old cupboards of curiosities where the strange and the fascinating coexist. Inspired by collectible objects and mysterious images, the designer from Malaga has created a proposal that mixes the classic with the innovative, breaking down the barriers between fashion and art.

The standout pieces include impressive volumes and constructions using 3D printing, one of the brand’s hallmarks. Hand-made textures and techniques such as cyanotype add a handcrafted touch that reinforces the collection’s unique aesthetic. Each garment becomes a canvas for experimentation, where the surreal comes to life through appliqués and embroidery.

The firm maintains its commitment to sustainability, emphasizing natural and high-quality fabrics such as silk, cotton, leather and tencel. The brand’s classic bomber jackets are reinterpreted with surreal details, elevating their design to another level. This collection reflects Álvaro Calafat’s commitment to innovation and respect for the environment, always with that air of mystery and sophistication that characterizes the firm.

Fely Campo

With “ Lei Zu”, Fely Campo invites us on an aesthetic journey along the mythical Silk Route, fusing history, legend and fashion. This luxury ready-to-wear collection features 29 sophisticated looks, starting with the masterful use of tweed and intertwining with artisanal silks brought from Guangzhou. Each garment celebrates textile richness, where opulence and subtlety meet.

The volumes of taffeta, the lightness of organza and printed brocades combine to create pieces that stand out for their precision in cuts and careful silhouettes. The collection begins with more structured shapes and tailored suits, evolving towards a more fluid aesthetic with shirt dresses and maxi lace kaftans that mesmerize with their movement.

The colour palette of “ Lei Zu” is a visual poem: crystal blues, pearly whites and soft lilacs mingle with acidic limes and radiant pistachios. With golden brushstrokes on Chinese silks, light plays a fundamental role in this proposal, which goes beyond being just a collection; it is a tribute to the essence of fashion and the magic of the Silk Road.

JCPajares

JCPAJARES surprises us with “ANNUAL 25,” its fifth annual collection, where the essence of summer and winter intertwine in designs that celebrate craftsmanship and innovation, all with a strong environmental commitment. This proposal highlights the new artisan luxury, the result of a collaboration with master craftsmen from Castilla-La Mancha, which revives centuries-old techniques in danger of extinction, giving them a contemporary feel.

The collection is a true feast for the senses, with materials including ceramics, blown glass, hand embroidery, crochet and painted prints, all crafted on historic looms. Spanish wool, often considered waste, is brought back to life, while leather and wicker accessories add a unique touch to each look.

“ANNUAL 25” is an ode to sustainability, where social responsibility and animal welfare are fundamental pillars. Oversized silhouettes and innovative patterns combine with prints evoking sunsets, creating pieces perfect for both day and night. The collection includes feathers, ruffles, cut-outs and goth details, made of wool cloths, silk crepes, taffetas and faded denims, along with tulles and fabrics adorned with rhinestones and sequins with floral motifs.

In each garment of “ANNUAL 25,” craftsmanship and modern aesthetics merge, offering a visual and sensorial experience that highlights the quality of the materials and real traceability, ideal for those looking for unique pieces with history.

Lola Casademunt by Maite

LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE ‘s new collection is inspired by the rich Japanese culture, with geishas as muses. This proposal captures the femininity and delicacy that characterize these emblematic figures, bringing them to life through garments adorned with floral details and glitter, in a vibrant palette that evokes the iconic kimonos.

Fluid and delicate fabrics are combined with more structured and casual materials, creating a dialogue between tradition and modernity. Stitched collars, embroidery and bows intertwine classic elements of geisha costumes with a contemporary style, while wide volumes on skirts and trousers and flowing sleeves add movement and elegance to each look.

Fitted dresses and geometric patterns enhance the silhouette, adding a touch of sophistication. Accessories are essential in this proposal, including okobo, traditional sandals, and sashes that imitate the obis of kimonos, all designed with the colors and prints characteristic of the collection.

“Spring/Summer 2025” by Lola Casademunt by Maite offers a contemporary take on Japanese aesthetics, fusing the traditional with the modern in a fresh and sophisticated proposal. Each piece not only celebrates cultural heritage, but also adapts to the modern lifestyle, making this collection an ideal choice for those seeking elegance and distinction in their outfits.

Malne

Malne, the luxury label created by renowned designers Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez, has presented “De Rerum Natura.” Inspired by the poem by Roman poet Titus Lucretius, this collection for the upcoming summer season celebrates nature and is a journey toward happiness and environmental awareness.

The proposal focuses on epicurean fashion, using natural fabrics such as linen, raffia and silk, as well as animal and floral prints that evoke the essence of spring. Each garment reflects freedom and connection with the outdoors, ideal at this time of year when it invites you to enjoy leisure time away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The silhouettes are soft and fluid, combining haute couture elements with a feminine approach. Malne pays homage to classic corsetry, using lace and corsets that wrap the body with elegance. The firm remains faithful to its principles of creating unique fashion with an authorial message, highlighting its commitment to craftsmanship and slow fashion, becoming one of the pioneering brands of the movement in Spain.

“De Rerum Natura” is not just a collection, but an invitation to reconnect with nature and enjoy life to the fullest. Each piece in this limited edition collection is designed for clients seeking luxury and exclusivity, reaffirming Malne ‘s position in the world of high-end ready -to- wear.

Creative collage featuring looks by Marta Martí, By Sophie, and Mariano Moreno.

Traditionally associated with spring, floral prints are stepping out of their comfort zone to take on a new role during the cold season as well. This trend demonstrates its beauty, versatility and timelessness, characteristics that are ideal for a wardrobe that is not so concerned with passing trends, but with a style that lasts and is therefore immune to the passage of time.

This autumn, flowers are once again taking centre stage, proving that they can also provide warmth, colour and elegance during the colder months. An example of this is the new September window display that we have just launched in our space in Barcelona, embraced in warm colours ranging from brown to maroon and orange, with leaf and flower prints evoking the beginning of autumn.

Below, we will explore the origin of floral prints, their evolution in the fashion world, current trends and how major brands have reinterpreted this trend in their most recent collections. Without forgetting, of course, the new fabrics and items that we already have available in our online store.

Origin and popularization of floral prints

Floral prints have a long history dating back centuries. Originating in Asia, particularly China and Japan, textiles with floral motifs arrived in Europe via the Silk Route. In the 17th century, Indian fabrics with floral prints, known as “chintz”, became popular in Europe, sparking a trend that has continued to evolve.

Their popularisation in contemporary fashion is historically more recent. The rise of floral prints can be traced back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the Art Nouveau movement adopted flowers as a key motif in textile design. However, it was in the 1960s and 1970s that these prints really reached a large number of people, thanks to the hippie and bohemian countercultural movements, which embraced nature as a form of personal expression and a symbol of rebellion against the values of society at the time.

Why do flowers never go out of style?

As we mentioned at the beginning of the article, floral prints have stood the test of time thanks to their versatility , adding a touch of romance and femininity. These designs can be adapted to a wide variety of styles, fabrics and garments, being essential both in a light summer dress and in an elegant transitional jacket. Floral prints bring freshness to any outfit. In addition, there is an emotional connection with nature that awakens feelings such as love, renewal, life and serenity. In a world increasingly dominated by technology and artificiality, floral designs connect us with nature and remind us of the ephemeral beauty of flowers.

Floral prints are also incredibly adaptable to different styles and eras. Among the most recognizable categories are:

1. Abstract Flowers: Modern designs with artistic strokes that mix colours and unusual shapes.

2. Botanical flowers: Motifs that imitate nature or scientific illustrations, with a more realistic style.

3. Vintage Flowers: Inspired by the 1960s and 1970s, with warm colours and psychedelic shapes.

4. Dark flowers: With deep tones and dark backgrounds, which provide an air of sophistication and mystery.

Another reason why floral prints never go out of style is that they are an expression of individuality and define each person’s style. A bold and striking floral print in vibrant tones is not the same as a more subtle and delicate one in neutral tones. In between the two extremes, there is an infinite variety of options to choose from.

The beauty of flowers has also been a recurring theme in the inspiration of artists throughout history, from the Renaissance, through botanical art and the vision of the Impressionists, to the most avant-garde designers. Today, it continues to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration in various contemporary disciplines. In fact, in the field of fashion, practically no collection of the main luxury brands completely omits floral prints. And finally, a less obvious aspect: floral prints are flattering for all ages . They are visually pleasing and harmonious patterns that bring joy, vitality and freshness to the face, raising self-esteem. For this reason, floral prints remain a constant trend in all seasons.

How are floral prints being worn this season?

For the autumn-winter 2024/2025 season, floral prints are presented in innovative ways. Key combinations include layering and contrasting, mixing floral pieces with garments in textures such as wool, leather or denim for a modern contrast. The “total floral look ” also stands out, i.e. flowers from head to toe through long dresses and coordinated outfits with floral prints of different sizes. In the cold season, flowers predominate on dark backgrounds in shades such as burgundy, olive green, mustard and navy blue, perfect for autumn. In addition, accessories with floral details, such as bags, scarves and shoes, complement the more sober outfits and bring a fresh touch.

Discover the floral prints that suit your tastes and needs in our new season catalogue. Here you can find what suits you best!

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

Collage cowboycore. Credits: Joplin Atelier, Free Form Style y Vanessa Mooney’s.

Every year we delight in a new microtrend that shakes up seasonal fashion in a whimsical way. The styling of an influential artist, the latest collection from a luxury brand, a revolutionary album, a blockbuster movie or the trends that accumulate the most hearts and likes on TikTok or Instagram. Social networks, which already create their own crushes, influence the creation of these passing trends that reach consumers like a gale and are established in editorials and fashion bazaars, also reinforcing themselves in the shop windows of fast fashion stores. Another phenomenon that confirms a microtrend is that as soon as they emerge, they disappear just as quickly.

If last year the fashion spotlight illuminated microtrends Barbiecore and Mermaidcore , inspired by the Mattel doll and the magnetism of mermaids, this spring season experiences a change of register, focusing on the aesthetics of Wild West cowboys. And yes, Beyoncé and her new country album have a lot to say about it. Indeed, the cowboycore style leaves the great American plains to capture the imagination of designers, celebrities and the general public with a contemporary interpretation of the western that renews style codes to get closer to the new generation, but maintains its hallmarks.

Why is cowboymania returning? The current resurgence of cowboycore can be attributed to a mix of nostalgia and a desire for authenticity. In an increasingly digital and globalized world, people seek to connect with styles that evoke a sense of history and tradition. Additionally, the trend toward sustainable and artisanal has made classic western garments, many of which are made from durable materials, even more attractive.

Origins of the trend

Cowboycore finds its roots in Western fashion, a recurring aesthetic in popular culture for decades. Classic western films, new adaptations, television series from the 60s and country music, with artists who capture the essence of deep America, have helped maintain this fashion that is perceived as a symbol of freedom and rebellion. Key pieces of this trend include all types of denim clothing, fringed leather and suede jackets, long ruffled dresses, and shirts with floral or check print motifs. As for accessories, country boots, wide-brimmed hats and belts with large metal buckles are essential. All this in a fusion of styles and other trends, such as glam and streetwear, creating unique and eclectic looks. This has been perceived on the streets of Milan and Paris among stylists and influencers who have worn their own interpretation of the cowboy – or cowgirl – aesthetic, coinciding with the main fashion weeks.
Cowboycore has been the protagonist in several fashion collections for 2024 and 2025, demonstrating its relevance and adaptability. Some notable fashion houses that have adopted this trend are, for example, Dior in its Pre- Fall 2024 collection, with fringed leather jackets and decorated cowboy boots. Also Balmain, with Olivier Rousteing incorporating elements of the microtrend in his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, fusing western aesthetics with glam and futuristic details. Calvin Klein reinterpreted the aesthetic in question with clean lines and a neutral colour palette, highlighting durability and classic style. Earlier this year, Pharrell Williams was inspired by the Old West and collaborated with Dakota and Lakota artists on his men’s collection for Louis Vuitton, filling the runway with turquoise stone bolo ties, pointed-toe cowboy boots (printed, by the way , with cacti) and worn jeans that looked like they had been worn during several rodeos. Finally, in the proposals of Ralph Lauren or Roberto Cavalli you can also find elements to the aesthetics of deep America.

Credit: Joplin Atelier

Cowboy fashion among influential artists

Celebrities play a crucial role in its popularization. One of the most influential figures to showcase this trend is Beyoncé, who, beyond her new country music album, has incorporated the Wild West style into her stage costumes and music videos. Her ‘ Renaissance ‘ tour has witnessed numerous looks inspired by the trend, with a modern and glamorous touch, cementing her status as the queen of this fashion.
Artists like Lil Nas X and Miley Cyrus have also embraced the western aesthetic, combining western elements with modern touches. The American rapper has made this style a central part of his image, wearing cowboy boots and hats in his performances and music videos. Kacey Musgraves, a country star, has also popularized cowboycore, mixing traditional western elements with bright, futuristic details in her stage outfits. Her style has influenced both country and mainstream fashion.

The relationship between fashion and music is deep and symbiotic, and cowboycore is a clear example of this. Country music has been a constant source of inspiration for western fashion, and vice versa. Artists like Orville Peck, with his enigmatic style and cowboy mask, have brought the style to new audiences, fusing Western aesthetics with a more theatrical, but sophisticated touch at the same time.

The pop genre has also adopted elements with artists such as Billie Eilish and Post Malone incorporating cowboy boots and denim jackets into their personal styles, showing the versatility and universal appeal of this trend.

Beyond music

The impact of the microtrend extends beyond fashion and music, infiltrating other cultural spheres such as cinema, television and the visual arts. Recent movies and television series, such as “Yellowstone” and “The Power of the Dog “, have presented characters with styles that reflect Western fashion, contributing to its resurgence.

In contemporary art, the cowboycore aesthetic manifests itself in works that explore themes of identity, nostalgia and rebellion. Visual artists such as Richard Prince have incorporated elements of the west into their works, creating a dialogue between popular culture and high-end art.

These are just some examples of how this microtrend has demonstrated its ability to evolve and adapt to new contemporary languages, creating a unique fusion of styles. From the catwalks to the streets, and from music to art, cowboycore continues to influence and be influenced by various cultural spheres. Its enduring appeal and ability to reinvent itself ensure that it will continue to be a relevant force in fashion and beyond.

At Gratacós we have found in the current collection some fabrics that subtly refer us to this aesthetic. Here we leave you our inspirations:

Exhibition ‘Dressing a Garden’. All photos published are provided by: Museum of Costume CIPE.

It has been a while since we recommended an exhibition, and we have just found a surprising exhibition that connects head-on with some of our most recurring inspirations and, specifically, with the floral theme of the 2024 Lookbook. The Madrid Costume Museum has just released the ‘Dressing a Garden’ exhibition, an exhibition curated by Gema Batanero that focuses on connecting nature with fashion through floral motifs as the backbone.

A historic binomial

Since ancient times, nature, and especially floral motifs, have been a constant source of inspiration for human beings. Like the self-portrait, flowers have focused attention and have become the first themes that humanity has captured in art and in all its cultural manifestations. This connection has endured over the centuries, especially in the field of fashion and interior design, where decorating with flowers meant a way of maintaining ephemeral beauty and union with the natural environment: the gardens, the countryside, the forests… In fact, each era has had its peculiar way of linking fashion and textiles with the language of flowers and doing so in an extraordinary way.

Starting from this historical premise, the exhibition “Dressing a Garden” at the Costume Museum explores how floral motifs in fashion evolved between the Baroque and the Enlightenment. This exhibition reveals how these floral representations reflect the profound changes in the relationship between humans and nature and the emergence of new artistic, scientific and philosophical ideas. Furthermore, the exhibition highlights how commercial exchanges and technological advances influenced the rapid transformation of these floral designs, making them a key testimony of the aesthetic taste of the 18th and early 19th centuries. Through the leitmotif of flowers, the exhibition also vindicates the study of creative and technical processes as a fundamental part in understanding the phenomenon of fashion, raising its transversality and continuous dialogue with different cultural fields.

Detail of an 18th-century dress from the exhibition ‘Dressing a Garden’. All photos published are provided by: Museum of Costume CIPE.

Floral motifs in more than a hundred pieces

The exhibition includes around 120 pieces, the core of which are collections of historical clothing and textiles from the 18th century and part of the 19th century from the Costume Museum. These pieces are accompanied by documentary and bibliographic collections, painting, ceramics and decorative arts from institutions such as the National Prado Museum, the National Archaeological Museum, the National Museum of Decorative Arts and the Royal Botanical Garden.

The first stop on the tour is titled “The Forest of the Furies” and places the visitor in the 18th century with an explosion of textile creativity: unusual fabrics, also called furies, due to the passionate and vibrant character of their decorative motifs. The exhibition continues with “A naturalistic still life”, which shows how, during the 1830s, the fanciful bizarre vegetations gave way to much more naturalistic representations. Starting in the 1940s, “The Line of Beauty” marks the evolution towards the Rococo style, characterized by its lightness and refinement.

Next, “The Flowers of Enlightenment” addresses the development of Enlightenment ideas and the return to the ideals of the classical world, marking a profound aesthetic change with respect to Rococo taste. “Gardens of the East” discusses how indianas, a textile phenomenon from India and the Middle East, made its way to Europe. The note of bucolic celebration is provided by “A country party”, which addresses the genre of the gallant party in Rococo and alludes to the social enjoyment of the countryside. Finally, the tour culminates in “The Return of Spring”, a space that explores how the relationship with nature is a constant in the lives of human beings, and how floral motifs, although they experienced an unprecedented boom in the centuries XVIII and XIX, are repeated cyclically throughout the history of fashion.

The exhibition is completed by a catalogue created by the General Subdirectorate of Publications and Palaces and Museums, which further develops the areas covered in the exhibition. The exhibition ‘Dressing a Garden’ can be visited for free until September 29th at the Madrid Costume Museum. A good opportunity to delight in this inspiring pairing: nature and fashion.

We took advantage of the exhibition to bring out some of our floral fabrics, which maintain a similar dialogue with some pieces on display. Let’s give rein to our imagination!

Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.

The new SS24 collection is already blooming in all its splendor. We brought it to you at the end of February coinciding with the end of the winter sales, but now we provide you with all the details of this exciting proposal that was very well received when it was presented at Première Vision Paris.

Under an inspiring concept, Hanami , the new collection focuses on the Japanese tradition of appreciating the beauty of flowers. This contemplative practice coincides with the beginning of spring and invites us to value the art of flowering. Hanami , which literally means “looking at the flowers”, carries with it a very representative image in Japan: that of the cherry blossom trees, known as sakura, which cover their parks and mountains with a pink mantle every spring for a very limited period that coincides with the beginning of this season.

This particular tradition dates back centuries, when the flowering of cherry trees marked the beginning of Spring and, therefore, signaled the ideal time to plant rice, a crucial food for the Japanese. During this period, cherry trees were considered sacred beings and the souls of the mountain gods were believed to reside in them. According to local beliefs, when the pink sakura flowers were in full bloom, the deities would come down to the villages and turn into rice fields to assist in rice production. Nowadays, with each new flowering season, thousands of Japanese gather under cherry trees, whether in parks, gardens or mountains, and enjoy a picnic surrounded by sakura, while a shower of delicate flowers turns everything pink.

Broadly speaking…

Returning to the proposal, the new Hanami collection maintains this double duality: it invites us to pause and reflect, but it is also a moment to let ourselves be carried away by fantasy and the evocative power of nature, activating all our senses.

This season, flowers are the clear protagonists of the collection, but we go much further. Plant motifs, organic reliefs, natural volumes and prints inspired by the wild nature of the fields or the multicoloured flora of urban gardens, all taken care of in detail. From the precious work of the botanical architects to the sensitivity of the signature florists, all of this makes up a poetic, stimulating and bold collection that appeals to emotions through creativity. At Gratacós, we do not understand fashion without art and culture, and we make craftsmanship one of our fundamental pillars.

Summer 2024 collection in detail, the colour becomes more vivid and bright, playing with different harmonies that reflect the light and contrasts present in nature. The fabrics are carefully selected in terms of materials, composition and combinations that recreate organic shapes. We once again give a new dimension to quality, because it is a necessary, clear and real value that distinguishes us.

“We don’t understand fashion without art and culture, and we make craftsmanship one of our fundamental pillars.”

Colours

The Gratacós proposal immerses itself in a world of colour, where various harmonies intertwine to create fresh and dynamic combinations. The contrasting colour palette will transform the fabrics, offering a richness of nuances that will energize the final results. The colours selected to star in the new season will give life to poetic, timeless and versatile collections, transmitting feelings through an intriguing interaction of strength, femininity and beauty, captured in the different textiles.

These colours transport you to a magical landscape, evoking a digital Eden where precious tones work with a enticing freshness of cold light. In times of uncertainty, who doesn’t yearn to use the power of highlighter pink, yellow, blue or green in a sheer frou-frou dress to experience a moment of happiness?

Fabrics

This season, the pleasure of creating and designing will be our impetus to develop new highly crafted fabrics with a sophisticated look. Our fabrics will be characterized by a renewed importance in the quality of the products, seeking a necessary and real authenticity. We have opted for soft lines, using light and transparent fabrics adorned with sequins to evoke the shine and clarity of water. This sense of summer vibrancy is reflected in graphic bursts of colour that extend throughout the collection.

Transparency will play an important role, conveying a fragility that is only apparent. For this reason, we have created light fabrics in various versions and transparencies, with sophisticated effects for a line of products with sweetened fantasies.

Aspects

This season’s fabrics magnificently explore texture, with volumes that are delicate in appearance, but solid in their construction. The creative department has worked to give the items a three-dimensional dimension, taking advantage of the twists of the yarns and the fantasies of the threads with a more organic appearance. The importance of the reliefs and embossed finishes stands out, with ultralight padding ideal for summer.

Jacquard takes on a leading role this season, presenting repetitive geometries and designs with sequential rhythms without interruption. We often overlook the technical complexity of small motifs, which is why it is crucial to revalue them. In addition, we have worked to create laminates with beautiful and sophisticated reflections, amplified by light to obtain a striking and elegant shine. In both jacquards and embroidery, the result will be dazzling, with shiny surfaces thanks to lame, iridescent threads and sequins.

The embroidery technique, as a universal method of beautification, is back in fashion. They bloom into unexpected and beautiful creations, with free settings and vibrant, fresh colours.

Designs

Overall, geometry will continue to be a prominent theme this season, especially as we explore flat and smooth handcrafted geometries, infused with special touches to create essential ingredients for this upcoming summer. The graphics in general will be soft, fresh and exquisite, with careful work on the designs.

Florals will play an important role, like a sweet perfume that permeates the entire collection, through the abundant and varied use of floral prints. Botanical motifs centered on leaves, vegetal ornaments and ambiguous jungles will also be highlighted.

Finally, in this new season, it is essential to mention the influence of art in the designs of the collection, as well as the influences of the metaverse, which present natures that hybridize between the real and the digital.

From Gratacós we invite you to discover Hanami , our particular Eden.

Pantone has established a tradition that colour enthusiasts eagerly await as a prelude to the Christmas holidays. It is about the choice of the shade that will set the direction of trends in 2024 and that will influence art, design, fashion, decoration or advertising, among other creative disciplines directed by professionals who draw on the latest developments on the market, also chromatic.

A sincere, tender and empathetic colour

Following its vocation of naming colours with subtly sensual names, Pantone has chosen the winner for next year. The colour in question is called Peach Fuzz 13-1023 and it is a peach shade that evokes sincerity and tenderness, and conveys, according to the world authority on colourimetry, a desire to take care of ourselves and others. A soft and velvety shade whose enveloping spirit enriches the mind, body and soul. This is how Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Colour Institute, explains it in a statement about the colour that will take over everything in 2024. “We were looking for a hue that expresses our innate desire for closeness and connection, so we chose this radiant colour that exudes warmth and modern elegance. It is a colour that exudes empathy, wraps us in a hug that we can almost feel and naturally combines the youthful with the imperishable.” This warm and comforting tone stimulates the desire to unite with others or have moments of stillness, and the feeling of protection that this generates.

The tone of calm and inner peace

According to Pantone, Peach Fuzz 13-1023 is an alluring peachy hue, carefully balanced between pink and orange, that inspires belonging, relaxation and the opportunity to care, evokes calm and offers a space in which to live, feel, heal and prosper. Therefore, the colour of 2024 is comforting and encourages inner peace and well-being. Peach Fuzz 13-1023 has both an idea and a sensation and stimulates all the senses, as it makes one perceive its tactility and envelops people in its warmth.

A modern tone that takes refuge in nostalgia

Peach Fuzz 13-1023 is a sweet and light colour that evokes a new modernity. It focuses on the human experience of enriching and caring for the mind, body and soul, but it is also a subtly sophisticated, modern and deep peach tone, with a soft but effective luminosity that fills the digital world with beauty. A poetic, romantic peachy shade that conveys cleanliness and a vintage feel, Peach Fuzz 13-1023 reflects the past, but reimagined for modern settings. This last characteristic makes it especially interesting for the world of design and decoration.

The meaning of colour in an unstable context

Peach Fuzz 13-1023 is the colour that replaces Viva Magenta, which was chosen as the colour of 2023. The reasons given were: “A tone rooted in nature that vibrates with energy and vigor. “That descends from the red family and expresses a new sign of strength.” So, now we move from strength to warmth.

“When our lives are affected by instability, our need to care and to have empathy and compassion grows even more, as well as to imagine a future that brings more peace,” Laurie Pressman explains this meaning of the colour that we will see in the coming months throughout Instagram and Pinterest boards, aswell as, probably in the next trends in both fashion and decoration. “In a world where productivity and external achievements are often emphasized, it is crucial to recognize the importance of taking care of our inner self and seeking moments of calm, creativity and connection with other people in the midst of the hustle and bustle of modern life,” adds the vice president of the Pantone Colour Institute. Give value to the bonds, affection and home: “The colour we selected had to express our desire to be close to our loved ones and the happiness we feel when we connect with our own being and enjoy a moment of quiet alone. It had to be a colour that conveyed an enveloping warmth and a message of compassion and empathy,” argues Laurie Pressman.

25 years setting trends in colour

In 2024 it will be 25 years since the Pantone Colour Institute began putting colour on the sensory and creative map for the following year. It was in 1999 when the Pantone Colour of The Year educational program engaged the design community around the world in a conversation about colour. “We wanted to emphasize the relationship between culture and colour to make our  audience aware of how what is happening in our global culture is expressed and reflected through colour language,” explains Pressman again. In this first session, a clear winner emerged: cerulean blue (Pantone 15-4020), a shade that returned to the stage thanks to the film ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ and Meryl Streep’s famous speech on how the fashion industry works. “Over the years, the Pantone Colour of the Year program has become a cultural touchstone around the world and has stimulated the imagination of many designers, brands and consumers,” explains Pressman.

To decide on each year’s selection, the Pantone Colour Institute team travels the world in search of new colour influences. They can be found in the entertainment industry (film, television series and even music), works of art and new artists. Of course, in fashion and design, but also in more aspirational places or concepts, such as travel destinations that are starting to become a trend, lifestyles, new technologies and materials, textures or effects (yes, like Instagram filters). that generate interest or capture attention in some way.

What began as a catalogue with 500 colours that served as a guide for graphic arts has grown in such a way that its influence on upcoming trends is comparable to what the biggest celebrity of the moment looks like on the cover of Vogue magazine. The Pantone guide already has more than 2,000 references that are updated every 18 months, with new, more precise shades being added to the list.

Another way to express the evolution as a society

Colour plays a fundamental role in people’s experience. It has a close relationship with emotions and the expression of feelings and its nuances can also be seen in how the story evolves year after year with its cycles of rise and fall. The impact of colour is also noticeable in the world of fashion, in the colours of cosmetics, in household items, in automotive and industrial design, and in products, packaging, multimedia design and retail interiors. “We are very pleased to have encouraged designers and colour enthusiasts around the world to tell their stories through colour language and show their creativity in their communities. We hope to continue doing this for many more years ,” concludes Pressman.

At Gratacós we also wanted to pay our particular tribute to Peach Fuzz 13-1023 with a selection of collection fabrics in peach tones so that you can think about a possible design for this 2024. You will find them here : Give free rein to your imagination!

Un color sincero, tierno y empático

Siguiendo su vocación de bautizar los colores con nombre sutilmente sensuales, Pantone ha elegido el ganador para el año que viene. El color en cuestión se llama Peach Fuzz 13-1023 y es una tonalidad melocotón que evoca sinceridad y ternura, y transmite, según la autoridad mundial en cuestiones de colorimetría, un deseo de cuidar de nosotros y de los demás. Una tonalidad suave y aterciopelada cuyo espíritu envolvente enriquece la mente, el cuerpo y el alma. Así lo explica Laurie Pressman, vicepresidenta del Pantone Color Institute, en un comunicado sobre el color que lo teñirá todo en 2024. “Buscábamos una tonalidad que expresara nuestro deseo innato de cercanía y conexión, así que escogimos este radiante color que rebosa calidez y elegancia moderna. Es un color que despide empatía, nos arropa en un abrazo que casi podemos sentir y aúna con toda naturalidad lo juvenil con lo imperecedero”. Este tono cálido y reconfortante estimula el deseo de unión con los demás o de tener momentos de quietud, y la sensación de protección que esto genera.

El tono de la calma y de la paz interior

Según Pantone, Peach Fuzz 13-1023 es una atractiva tonalidad amelocotonada, cuidadosamente equilibrada entre el rosa y el naranja, que inspira pertenencia, relajación y la oportunidad de cuidar, evoca calma y ofrece un espacio en el que se puede vivir, sentir, sanar y prosperar. Por lo tanto, el color de 2024 es reconfortante y fomenta la paz interior y el bienestar. Peach Fuzz 13-1023 tiene tanto de idea como de sensación y estimula todos los sentidos, ya que hace percibir su tactilidad y envuelve a las personas en su calidez.

Un tono moderno que se refugia en la nostalgia

Peach Fuzz 13-1023 es un color dulce y ligero que evoca una nueva modernidad. Se centra en la experiencia humana de enriquecer y cuidar de la mente, el cuerpo y el alma, pero también es un tono melocotón sutilmente sofisticado, moderno y profundo, con una luminosidad suave pero efectiva que llena de belleza el mundo digital.  Un tono amelocotonado, poético y romántico que transmite limpieza y una sensación vintage, Peach Fuzz 13-1023 refleja el pasado, pero reimaginado para ambientes modernos. Esta última característica la hace especialmente interesante para el mundo del diseño y la decoración.

El significado del color en un contexto inestable

El Peach Fuzz 13-1023 es el color que substituye el Viva Magenta, que fue elegido como color de 2023. Lo defendían así: “Un tono arraigado en la naturaleza que vibra con energía y vigor. Que desciende de la familia roja y expresa una nueva señal de fuerza”. Así, ahora pasamos de la fuerza a la calidez.

“Cuando nuestra vida se ve afectada por la inestabilidad, crece aún más nuestra necesidad de cuidar y de tener empatía y compasión, así como de imaginar un futuro que traiga más paz”, explica de nuevo Laurie Pressman sobre el significado del color que veremos en los próximos meses a lo largo y ancho de todo Instagram y de tableros de Pinterest, así como, probablemente en las próximas tendencias tanto de moda como de decoración. “En un mundo en el que se suele enfatizar la productividad y los logros externos, es crucial reconocer la importancia de cuidar de nuestro interior y buscar momentos de calma, creatividad y conexión con otras personas en medio del ajetreo de la vida moderna”, añade la vicepresidente del Pantone Color Institute. Valorar los vínculos, el cariño y el hogar: “El color que hemos seleccionado tenía que expresar nuestro deseo de estar cerca de nuestros seres queridos y la felicidad que sentimos cuando conectamos con nuestro propio ser y disfrutamos de un momento de quietud a solas. Tenía que ser un color que transmitiera una calidez envolvente y un mensaje de compasión y empatía”, argumenta Laurie Pressman.

25 años marcando tendencias en color

En 2024 se cumplirán 25 años desde que Pantone Color Institute empezó a poner el color en el mapa sensorial y creativo del año siguiente. Fue en 1999 cuando el programa educativo Pantone Color of The Year involucró a la comunidad del diseño de todo el mundo en una conversación en torno al color. “Queríamos poner énfasis en la relación entre la cultura y el color para destacar ante nuestro público cómo lo que está ocurriendo en nuestra cultura global se expresa y refleja a través del lenguaje cromático”, explica de nuevo Pressman. En esta primera sesión salió un claro vencedor: el azul cerúleo (Pantone 15-4020), una tonalidad que volvió al estrado gracias a la película ‘El diablo viste de Prada’ y el célebre discurso de Meryl Streep sobre cómo funciona la industria de la moda. “Con los años, el programa Pantone Color of the Year se ha convertido en un referente cultural en todo el mundo y ha estimulado la imaginación de muchos diseñadores, marcas y consumidores”, explica Pressman.

Para llegar a la selección de cada año, el equipo de Pantone Color Institute recorre el mundo en busca de nuevas influencias cromáticas. Pueden encontrarse en la industria del entretenimiento (cine, series de televisión e incluso música), obras de arte y nuevos artistas. Por supuesto, en la moda y el diseño, pero también en lugares o conceptos más aspiracionales, como puedan ser destinos de viaje que empiezan a ser tendencia, estilos de vida, nuevas tecnologías y materiales, texturas o efectos (sí, como los filtros de Instagram) que generen interés o acaparen la atención de alguna forma.

Lo que comenzó siendo un catálogo con 500 colores que sirviese como guía para las artes gráficas ha crecido de tal manera que su influencia en las próximas tendencias se equipara a lo que la mayor celebridad del momento luzca en la portada de la revista Vogue. La guía Pantone cuenta ya con más de 2.000 referencias que se van actualizando cada 18 meses, con nuevos tonos más precisos que se van añadiendo a la lista.

Otra manera de contar la evolución como sociedad

El color desempeña un papel fundamental en la experiencia de las personas. Tiene una relación cercana con las emociones y la expresión de los sentimientos y en sus matices se aprecian también en cómo evoluciona la historia año tras año con sus ciclos de auge y descenso. El impacto del color también se nota en el mundo de la moda, en los colores de los cosméticos, en los artículos para el hogar, en el diseño automovilístico e industrial, y en los productos, embalajes, diseño multimedia e interiores de los comercios. “Nos complace enormemente haber estimulado a diseñadores y entusiastas del color de todo el mundo a contar sus historias a través del lenguaje cromático y a mostrar su creatividad en sus comunidades. Esperamos poder seguir haciéndolo durante muchos más años”, concluye Pressman.

Desde Gratacós también hemos querido hacer nuestro particular homenaje al Peach Fuzz 13-1023 con una selección de tejidos de colección en tonos melocotón para que vayas pensando un posible diseño para este 2024. Los encontrarás aquí: ¡Da rienda suelta a la imaginación!