(Español) Over the Rainbow
The green evocator Arcadia
Colour communicates and expresses moods. It is a key variable that designers take into account when presenting their collections. There is nothing fortuitous. The more radiant the colour, the more expressive capacity it transmits. And it is already known that in spring there is a desire to express oneself with colour, after a season of neutral, dark and muted tones, traditionally linked with winter.
Living with sorbet colors, another range of tonalities emerges that are positioned right at the other extreme. They are bright colours, which radiate energy, optimism and confidence driving a new vitality towards fashion trends. In this more daring chromatic range you can find a colour inspired by the most fantastic natural landscapes: Arcadia .
Make no mistake, green has never been an easy colour to wear. On the catwalk it dazzles for its freshness and spontaneity, however it is not one of the habitual preferences in consumption. There is a certain “curse” around this colour that only yellow equals. Something different happens in decoration, where it is a habitual tone because it revitalizes the neutral spaces and enhances the natural textures and the rustic finishes. It is a tone that is used in textiles, upholstery, auxiliary furniture and sometimes on a wall.
Arcadia is a different green, highly recognizable visually and with a complex spirit. According to Pantone this tonality “implies the retro and at the same time the modern”. The international authority of colour assures us that “ it is a fresher and cleaner version of the green that, with its blue background nuance, takes us to a new direction for this season”.
This striking variation of turquoise is inspired by the crystalline waters of the tropical oceans and reminds us of purity, nature and fun. The colour Arcadia is above all casual, halfway between the evocative and the transgressive. Obviously, there is no luxury company that has made an integral commitment to this shade, but it has appeared in fair measure in the collections of Tibi , Sportmax or Ulla Johnson in its most sporty version, in unstructured silhouettes and loose garments of synthetic fabrics . Or showing off its more sophisticated side through steamy, navy- inspired dresses like Elie Saab or through capes and accessories in leather seen in Valentino.
It is usual to see this colour in Gucci , “the green dog” of fashion. In the next autumn-winter season 2018 there are Arcadia brushstrokes in eighties aesthetic dresses with volumes on the shoulders and a blazer with bright fabrics. What is more interesting is that Alessandro Michele used it to contextualize his latest parade, which was more eccentric than usual, a symbol that in this case the creative director of the popular Italian company wanted to use to highlight the youthful and imaginative side of his next collection.
Also discover in Gratacós the fabrics that are dyed in Arcadia or in most similar tones. You will surely give green a new opportunity. It is well worthwhile….
One flower for each garden
Spring brings a new awakening of botanical motifs with original floral prints that pay homage to nature and its plants. Vivid tones, in various sizes, in surprising combinations … We review the prints that most inspire us in a season rich in colour and textures, with flowers as a common denomination.
French Countryside
We move to the interior of the French Provence in the middle of the rough fields of wild flowers: poppies, lavenders, sunflowers … that fill this country environment with colour. On the catwalk, flowers also sprout in their most mini version – the Liberty pattern is imposed – on all types of fabrics and in soft tones, providing delicacy and a certain nostalgia. Long romantic- inspired dresses, asymmetric tops with Brigitte Bardot style ruffles and flowing skirts abound in the Chloé , Paul & Joe , Loewe and Marni spring-summer 2018 collections . A pattern that reflects the most bucolic beauty of nature.
Exotic Polynesia
At the other end of the first trend in floral prints, is the exoticism of Polynesia. Thus, the flora and fauna of these Pacific islands inspire the most daring summer prints with large format flowers that invade all types of garments, bringing colour, joy and vitality. A tropical spirit inspired by Hawaii or Taití with two main flowers: the hibiscus and the gardenia, wrapped in abundant vegetation. The chromatic palette focuses on warm and vibrant tones such as yellow, orange, fuchsia or vermilion.
Wild jungle
The flowers are still present, giving prominence to the fruits, the leaves of the palm trees, and the most diverse wild fauna in this type of very vivid print full of natural references to these exotic paradises full of foliage. The fabrics emulate a floral motif that intermingle with vegetation and animal prints. A tropical print that renews itself season after season and is present in the collections of Kenzo o Escada, for instance.
In Gratacós you will find several floral fabrics that follow these three seasonal trends amongst other inspirations. You will find them in our online store or in the physical space of Barcelona.
El nuevo negro es azul marino
Each season the fashion industry is determined to find the ideal substitute for black, the eternal classic. And it seems that this year a firm candidate has been found that convinces both critics and consumers alike: navy blue. As Christian Dior said back in the day: “Of all the colours, navy blue is the only one that can compete with black presenting the same virtues”. Not surprisingly, the second prêt-à-porter proposal by Maria Grazia Chiuri, current creative director recovered the colour of the French dressmaker in a transgressive way and in feminist key in a collection where jeans shared the centre stage with romantic tulle dresses creating uniform which reflect this attitude.
Beyond Dior, this wildcard tonality reigns in the majority of looks to be seen on autumn catwalks, in sober proposals that are at the same time, sophisticated and very appropriate for men and women. In fact, this color unifies and dilutes gender. Carolina Herrera, Hermes, DelPozo, Balenciaga … are some of the big names who have surrendered to the charm of tonality of the sea.
How to wear navy blue?
This autumn the monobloc combinations are in, where the blue is diversified: from the deep and evocative ultramarine to brighter tones like blue Klein. Textures take over from the prints and play a key role in the combinations, always accompanied by precious details such as metallic threads, sequins or inlaid rhinestones. Also to be seen will be floral Jacquards, polka dot prints and embossed graphic motifs that create fun optical games.
To be highlighted. velvet finds in blue a powerful ally for sensuality. Thus, the most glamorous garments succumb to the soft and sumptuous feel of this fabric that is linked to the night and mystery. Finally, navy does not completely untie from its main competitor: black colour. So it is no wonder that this season there are plenty of combinations of these two dark shades, showing that, despite what has always been said, blue and black match together.
Find the navy fabrics of the new season on our website or in the Gratacós shop
Barcelona acoge el primer festival de fashion films propio
Gratacós aloja la nueva edición del Designers Fashion Experiences
Gratacós “begins the school year” hosting in our shop in Barcelona the second edition of the conference Designers Fashion Experiences, some lectures given by designers who succeed in the fashion industry with their respective businesses. The goal is to share experiences, reflect situations, explain anecdotes to young fashion and design students to create synergies together. Some collect the testimony and others expose new ideas or situations in a kind of “face to face” where the barriers between experts and beginners are broken.
According to David Boix, organizer of the initiative, the second edition is optimistic: “We are very happy to be able to celebrate a new edition after the success of the first edition and we look forward to it with great joy and positivism.” Boix promises some changes in regards to the first edition. “We will delve into some issues such as brand identity, the fashion business or the threats and real fears that affect the sector,” he said. A consistent strategy to share more practical and real issues with the current situation, encouraging feedback from the students and increase participation in social networks.
The conference Designers Fashion Experiences will be supported by four designers spread over the four months of the last quarter of 2017. In this edition, Alejandro Resta, Núria Sarda, Francis Montesinos and Celia Vela will participate.
An ideal scenario
Gratacós is one of the sponsors of the presentations, but this year they have also divested part of their store to the development of the conference becoming an informative space where networking is promoted. “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles,” says David Boix. And he adds: “It is a good reference for the fashion of Barcelona”. The conference will be held on the top floor of the store that will be equipped for the occasion, and facilitating also the lecturers and students with the possibility to show the fabrics of the season for the development of each talk.
David Boix: “We are happy to hold the event in this space of great identity and passion for textiles”.
The first meeting will be next Wednesday, September 13 with the Valencian designer Alejandro Resta. The get together is at 18:30. Get your invitation here. We hope to see you there!
La zona neutral
Hazelnut, beige, tan, brown, makeup, nude … Neutral colours are in fashion this summer 2017. In fact, regardless of the trend this year, the cream tones are classic and modern at the same time. Timeless colors that soften the face and skin, and do not necessarily have to fall in the monotony if you know how to combine with small details in other pigmentations to make an evocative contrast.
This season neutral tones can be seen on the catwalk shows of the luxury brands with a clear tendency to single – colour blocks with some minor variations in tone. What has changed are those embossed fabrics, the focus on pleated loose clothing and volumes around the shoulder area and attenuated at the bottom. For example, DelPozo exhibits a skirt and jacket outfit in butter colour with wide sleeves; Bottega Veneta goes for fluid dresses insinuating the body without marking it and finally, Chloé gives prominence to floral embossed fabric dyed in dusty pink.
How to combine neutral tones?
Neutral tones are fresh, bring warmth and are present in the most relaxed looks of summer. They soften out and are discreet enough to make the details of the garments stand out. In this sense, they easily pass fade into the background with an unexpected colour touch. This season, the neutrals combine with stylish burnt orange, chocolate-brown appeasers, the ivory tones – the fake whites – and the pink tones. It is not a season of excessive contrasts, rather of complementary shades that are simple and elegant without effort. Blessed discretion!
Embossed fabrics
As we noted above, the colour gives prominence to the fabric as you can see in the trend “Flor de Cala Blanca” on our website. Textures, outlines, floral motifs … give this counterpoint to details with fabrics that are pleasing to the eye and touch. Also to be seen are blends such as chiffon and silk combined with crochet and the most original jacquards. Finally, matt textures prevail. Better without shine.
If you want to discover the universe of neutral tones and textures, we invite you to discover the seasonal fabrics in our shop where we can advise you better.
080 Barcelona Fashion has now run 20 editions
080 Barcelona Fashion is celebrating. The catwalk, which will take place from 26 to 30 June in the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, is celebrating its 20th edition with a large fashion programme that goes beyond parades to include more parallel activities, business conferences, evening parties, special presentations and a guest of honour who will become one of the main advertisements for the Catalan catwalk.
The Missoni saga in Barcelona
In this edition, Margherita Missoni, third generation of the prestigious Italian firm, will collect the Fashion Tribute which the parade is devoting to his mother, Angela Missoni, current co – owner and creative director of the brand. In turn, Margherita will offer a talk about the Missoni saga and its influence on fashion entitled “The Missoni Family. Born into fashion “. This talk will be shared with Vogue ex-director Lisa Lowatt-Smith.
The debut of new talents
In the field of design there are some absentees, such as Sita Murt, Menchén Tomàs or TCN, but for the first time on the catwalk there are emerging talents like Mietis, Jnorig, AMT or the designers Colmillo de Morsa who we interviewed a few months ago. For the first time in Catalonia the designer Maria Roch will be in the parade with her feminine creations and the designers Elena Estaun and Gema Sach. They will join the catwalk cast along with the regular brands and designers from which we highlight Brain & Beast – whose daring and rebellious parade is always a must -. As is usual in summer editions, swimwear also takes centre stage on the catwalk with companies such as Red Point, Como un Pez en el Agua or Guillermina Baeza.
In total there are 37 designers and companies that will parade on the catwalk, with a clear modernist accent.
Special activities
To commemorate the 20 editions held over the decade, 080 Barcelona Fashion has scheduled a special calendar among which is the presentation of the capsule collection by the Catalan company Macson, which is celebrating 75 years in the business. It sees the debut as designer of the choreographer and dancer Rafael Amargo, the concert by Andrea Motis which is part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Nights and a special catwalk party entitled Anniversary party by Zalando. On the solidarity front the Catalan parade is also promoting a philanthropic action with the Casal dels Infants, by marketing a commemorative T – shirt designed from a figurine by the prestigious New York illustrator Rubén Toledo.
Finally, the parallel activities include the holding of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, which will be transformed into a fair and will be held on 28 and 29 June; it further includes the 080 Investor Day, the International Investment Forum of the Fashion Industry and the annual meeting of the textile-fashion sector, Texmeeting by TEXFOR.
Access all the programming of 080 Barcelona Fashion here.
In connection with young designers and the industry ‘s future we want to highlight the new edition of Barcelona Fashion Summit as a meeting of professionals in the fashion business. This time the conference will focus on the theme ‘Next Generation: the future of the fashion business’ with topics for analysis such as young business leaders, the new consumers, generational changes or new forms of management and business in the fashion industry.
Yellow fever
In the world of theatre they say that it brings bad luck, but it is not the case with fashion. And less so in summer. Superstitions aside, this season is tinted in vibrant yellow in a wide range of hues and shades. Vanilla, butter, lemon, mustard, sulfur, corn, honey, banana, pineapple … be guided through the colours of these foods to know what kind of yellow to choose to fill your summer wardrobe optimistically – and if you can’t decide, then opt for all of them because this season this vibrant colour is being worn in uni-colour blocks.
Note the most daring looks by Chanel, Max Mara, Chloé, Valentino and Emilio Pucci who go for this flattering color with in pastel shades, in total brilliance, neon finishes, satin effects or even embroidered translucent with creations that serve for both day and evening.
How to combine yellow?
It is well known that yellow is not a colour easy to wear and sometimes it is to be found only in the wardrobes of the most daring. Let’s break down the frontiers ! There are many ways to combine yellow, softening its effect to make it so less strident. How ?With the full range of neutrals like beige, taupe or ivory, the metallic shades or the black and white duo being relegated to small details or specific accessories that enliven the look.
Fabrics with lemonade effect
One of our inspirations this season is the yellow such as that seen in the trend “sunflower” we showed you on the web. In it you will find all kinds of fabrics ranging from more ethereal and smooth silks and outfits to the very brightest with encrusted sequins. Between these two extremes there is a wealth of prints, such as floral Jacquards, exotic mikados with oriental touches and fabrics with metallic shades. Light up the street with this daring colour!
We invite you to discover the whole new collection on the web or in our store!
Alone with … Manuel Bolaño
Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand. ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic. Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …
What is your plan B?
My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.
What do you mean by basic?
When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.
“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”
Was this at the request of your clientele ? Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …
Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand. We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black. At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.
The concept of timelessness in your brand …
Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments? It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always. The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour. At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.
Tell me more details about the collection …
The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams. The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments. The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier. That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.
“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”
And how do you operate things ?
The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier. I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.
It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …
Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.
By the way, you have changed the location of the studio. You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …
Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home. I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.
“I want the client to feel at home”
What is your link with Gratacós?
I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.
Do you remember how you got to know us?
Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona. I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !” At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop. It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.
About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”
I did not know we were so impressive …
At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind. Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.
Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?
Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.
What challenges do you face for this year?
For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough. Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…
The Gratacós questionnaire …
Your essential garment … A shirt
A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric
A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red
The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.
An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks
Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri
Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play
Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid