Jueves 26 septiembre 2024
Featured in the collage: Lola Casademunt by Maite, Fely Campo, Álvaro Calafat, JCPajares, and Malne for MBFWMadrid. Courtesy of the brands.
At Gratacós, we are always keeping an eye on the most important catwalk shows in Spanish fashion, looking for those surprising looks that are created with our fabrics. We love to see how each designer adds their personal touch and transforms our fabrics into authentic works of art in motion. This constant search for creativity and innovation inspires us deeply.
At the latest edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, held in September 2024, we confirmed once again that many designers trust in the quality and versatility of our fabrics to bring their collections to life. This year, artisanal and sustainable fabrics have taken centre stage, highlighting a clear focus on recycled, natural and technological materials. Not only do they make garments look amazing, but they also tell stories full of purpose.
Here are some of the most outstanding looks from the Spring -Summer 2025 collections, where our fabrics have been an essential part. It is fascinating to see how each designer contributes their unique vision and plays with textures to set trends that do not go unnoticed.
Alvaro Calafat
In his new collection ODDITIES ODYSSEY, Álvaro Calafat takes us on a journey into the past, evoking the old cupboards of curiosities where the strange and the fascinating coexist. Inspired by collectible objects and mysterious images, the designer from Malaga has created a proposal that mixes the classic with the innovative, breaking down the barriers between fashion and art.
The standout pieces include impressive volumes and constructions using 3D printing, one of the brand’s hallmarks. Hand-made textures and techniques such as cyanotype add a handcrafted touch that reinforces the collection’s unique aesthetic. Each garment becomes a canvas for experimentation, where the surreal comes to life through appliqués and embroidery.
The firm maintains its commitment to sustainability, emphasizing natural and high-quality fabrics such as silk, cotton, leather and tencel. The brand’s classic bomber jackets are reinterpreted with surreal details, elevating their design to another level. This collection reflects Álvaro Calafat’s commitment to innovation and respect for the environment, always with that air of mystery and sophistication that characterizes the firm.
Fely Campo
With “ Lei Zu”, Fely Campo invites us on an aesthetic journey along the mythical Silk Route, fusing history, legend and fashion. This luxury ready-to-wear collection features 29 sophisticated looks, starting with the masterful use of tweed and intertwining with artisanal silks brought from Guangzhou. Each garment celebrates textile richness, where opulence and subtlety meet.
The volumes of taffeta, the lightness of organza and printed brocades combine to create pieces that stand out for their precision in cuts and careful silhouettes. The collection begins with more structured shapes and tailored suits, evolving towards a more fluid aesthetic with shirt dresses and maxi lace kaftans that mesmerize with their movement.
The colour palette of “ Lei Zu” is a visual poem: crystal blues, pearly whites and soft lilacs mingle with acidic limes and radiant pistachios. With golden brushstrokes on Chinese silks, light plays a fundamental role in this proposal, which goes beyond being just a collection; it is a tribute to the essence of fashion and the magic of the Silk Road.
JCPajares
JCPAJARES surprises us with “ANNUAL 25,” its fifth annual collection, where the essence of summer and winter intertwine in designs that celebrate craftsmanship and innovation, all with a strong environmental commitment. This proposal highlights the new artisan luxury, the result of a collaboration with master craftsmen from Castilla-La Mancha, which revives centuries-old techniques in danger of extinction, giving them a contemporary feel.
The collection is a true feast for the senses, with materials including ceramics, blown glass, hand embroidery, crochet and painted prints, all crafted on historic looms. Spanish wool, often considered waste, is brought back to life, while leather and wicker accessories add a unique touch to each look.
“ANNUAL 25” is an ode to sustainability, where social responsibility and animal welfare are fundamental pillars. Oversized silhouettes and innovative patterns combine with prints evoking sunsets, creating pieces perfect for both day and night. The collection includes feathers, ruffles, cut-outs and goth details, made of wool cloths, silk crepes, taffetas and faded denims, along with tulles and fabrics adorned with rhinestones and sequins with floral motifs.
In each garment of “ANNUAL 25,” craftsmanship and modern aesthetics merge, offering a visual and sensorial experience that highlights the quality of the materials and real traceability, ideal for those looking for unique pieces with history.
Lola Casademunt by Maite
LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE ‘s new collection is inspired by the rich Japanese culture, with geishas as muses. This proposal captures the femininity and delicacy that characterize these emblematic figures, bringing them to life through garments adorned with floral details and glitter, in a vibrant palette that evokes the iconic kimonos.
Fluid and delicate fabrics are combined with more structured and casual materials, creating a dialogue between tradition and modernity. Stitched collars, embroidery and bows intertwine classic elements of geisha costumes with a contemporary style, while wide volumes on skirts and trousers and flowing sleeves add movement and elegance to each look.
Fitted dresses and geometric patterns enhance the silhouette, adding a touch of sophistication. Accessories are essential in this proposal, including okobo, traditional sandals, and sashes that imitate the obis of kimonos, all designed with the colors and prints characteristic of the collection.
“Spring/Summer 2025” by Lola Casademunt by Maite offers a contemporary take on Japanese aesthetics, fusing the traditional with the modern in a fresh and sophisticated proposal. Each piece not only celebrates cultural heritage, but also adapts to the modern lifestyle, making this collection an ideal choice for those seeking elegance and distinction in their outfits.
Malne
Malne, the luxury label created by renowned designers Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez, has presented “De Rerum Natura.” Inspired by the poem by Roman poet Titus Lucretius, this collection for the upcoming summer season celebrates nature and is a journey toward happiness and environmental awareness.
The proposal focuses on epicurean fashion, using natural fabrics such as linen, raffia and silk, as well as animal and floral prints that evoke the essence of spring. Each garment reflects freedom and connection with the outdoors, ideal at this time of year when it invites you to enjoy leisure time away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
The silhouettes are soft and fluid, combining haute couture elements with a feminine approach. Malne pays homage to classic corsetry, using lace and corsets that wrap the body with elegance. The firm remains faithful to its principles of creating unique fashion with an authorial message, highlighting its commitment to craftsmanship and slow fashion, becoming one of the pioneering brands of the movement in Spain.
“De Rerum Natura” is not just a collection, but an invitation to reconnect with nature and enjoy life to the fullest. Each piece in this limited edition collection is designed for clients seeking luxury and exclusivity, reaffirming Malne ‘s position in the world of high-end ready -to- wear.
Fely Campo. Spring-Summer 2023. Pic: Gus Geijo
Gratacós has shone with its own light at the Great Spanish Fashion Week by stepping on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid catwalk, held in mid-September. Evidently, this has ocurred so indirectly through designers who are regular users of our and who have once again trusted in our know-how to create the magnificent collections for the coming summer season. In this edition we want to especially mention the collaboration that our family business has made with the designer Fely Campo in an urban and sensual SS23 proposal, where luxury is appreciated in every detail. Not only the creator from Salamanca has relied on Gratacós fabrics to devise works of art in movement. Other designers have also supported us, such as Álvaro Calafat, Aurelia Gil, Duyos, JC Pajares, Isabel Sanchís, Malne, Maison Mesa, Odette, Pilar Dalbat and Redondo Brand. To follow, we expose some details of each collection and also more details of the exhibited looks.
Fely Campo
Fely Campo understands fashion as “a tireless search for beauty”. A language that moves perseveringly and in which the designer from Salamanca finds the balance between the silence and the noise of our current way of life. Under this inspiration, the creator transmits in ‘Nagore’ an idea of sensuality that aligns with the frenetic urban rhythm of cities like Madrid, Tokyo or New York. Surprising cities in full vibration with which Campo alludes to notions such as the maelstrom, vibration and drive, but also evokes other values such as stillness, subtlety and desire, through fabrics, patterns and silhouettes that want to participate in this urban bustle.
Thus, ‘Nagore’ is a luxury prêt-à-porter collection with which Fely Campo wants to represent the movement of our current rhythm of life. To do this, the designer, who has been dressing women from all over the world for more than 40 years, creates a contemporary image based on the concept of fluidity with ductile and versatile garments that reflect the feelings of today’s woman who is looking for Spanish author fashion aware of the need to consume sustainable fashion. Following her elegant and sober style, Fely Campo clings to an excellent pattern design with silhouettes that love subtlety, fabrics that become vulnerable to movement, exuberant floral prints and in a rich colour palette that ranges from neutrals: whites, light grays and black, to the radiant shades of fuchsia, orange and red with metallic nuances. The designer’s SS23 proposal is, above all, an explosion of feminine beauty in full motion.
Álvaro Calafat
Álvaro Calafat debuts on the Spanish catwalk with a new emotional collection where art and architecture merge with fashion. His third proposal is a heartfelt tribute to the death of one of the young designer’s best friends from Malaga. To talk about death, but also about its connection with life, love and sex, Calafat takes those present to the Khajuraho temple in India and does so through a free and creative interpretation of patterns, 3D structures, volumes and minute details. The silhouettes become daring, the fabrics combine rigidity with lightness and some surreal elements characteristic of her irreverent style do not go unnoticed.
Aurelia Gil
Aurelia Gil pays tribute to the trajectory of her brand, which turns 20 in 2023, through a timeless proposal that is a declaration of intent. Thus, ‘3 6 5’ represents a single collection a year made up of garments that fit together and work at any time of the day, in order to take another step towards sustainability.
The Canarian firm’s collection is made up of a large selection of the brand’s iconic garments that have been revised and updated through design and the use of new materials, such as Lycra yarn for crochet pieces. Gil is also committed to colour contrast and the mixture of fabrics. ‘3 6 5’ also has the added vision provided by Canarian artisans who have created the accessories that accompany the collection to reaffirm the values of tradition, craftsmanship and trade.
Duyos
With its own recognizable style, Duyos finds the inspiration for the next SS23 collection in Estonia through a sensory journey through its stunning nature, its crafts and tradition, and even its gastronomy. To translate experiences into fashion, the designer from Madrid allies himself with cotton jacquards, embroidery, organza, silk and tulle, which he uses to illustrate the floral explosion of early summer, but also other elements of native landscapes. Forest greens, luminous pinks, floral purples, evocative golds… which, subtly combined, represent the colourful energy of the country.
In the new Juan Duyos collection, his usual stylistic traits are not lacking either: overlapping garments, play on volumes and a mixture of motifs and textures that represent the playful but functional spirit based on handcrafted sewing.
Isabel Sanchis
Isabel Sanchis has celebrated 30 years in fashion while keeping its credentials intact. The objective of the Valencian designer, who borders on excellence in needlework, has always been to magnify the femininity of contemporary women by working with care on the chosen materials and fabrics, with exclusive embroideries, strategic volumes and very precise pattern making.
The next collection for summer 2023 represents a very personal collection based on signature elements, flowers and volume. To do this, Isabel Sanchís interprets flowers in different ways, maintaining elegant and extremely feminine designs. The proposal is eclectic, it represents the diversity in today’s society, and there are pieces that start from laser-cut neoprene, passing through lighter pieces of organza or chiffon, with other sewn garments with volumes made with recycled liquid satin and feathers. The colours used are striking, where red, pink and green predominate, giving strength to the pieces in this collection for a woman of 2023.
JCPAJARES
JCPAJARES reaffirms its commitment to fashion without seasonality with its ‘Annual 22 23’ proposal. It represents the third annual collection where summer, winter and timeless garments come together through innovative, conscious and environmentally friendly designs.
‘ANNUAL 22-23’ becomes the firm’s most special collection thanks to the collaboration with master craftsmen. A union that revives and provides new aesthetic codes to centuries-old techniques that are about to disappear. Ceramics, blown glass, hand embroidery, wicker, fabrics made on century-old looms navigate through a collection that strengthens the character, style and stamp of the young designer’s signature. Also noteworthy are the innovative and sophisticated patterns, the sexy silhouettes combined with other oversize, the strategic gathers and the unexpected openings that materialize thanks to wool cloths, organza and silk dots, crepes and neoprene, among others.
Malne
Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez, the design tandem that hides behind the firm, is inspired by the symbolism of birth to present a dazzling collection in every way that is set in a hostile environment such as the desert. In ‘Birth’, Malne reflects on a process of transformation in a positive light: the end of an era, and the birth of new ethical paradigms and ways of life, in which nature is part of the beauty of that necessary mutation.
To take it to the field of fashion, Malne uses bright fabrics that reflect the sun’s rays on the sand and shades characteristic of the desert landscape such as sand tones or night blues. The silhouettes are daring without neglecting the sophistication that characterizes the Spanish brand.
Maison Mesa
The controversial figure of Elagabalus, Roman emperor of the 3rd century AD, inspires the new summer collection of Meson Mesa. An irreverent emperor, who breaks with the gender schemes, with established sexuality and with the power systems, who grants women the political power destined exclusively for men. Under this influence, femininity, desire and power are the central elements around which all the garments revolve, a story about feminine power without ties.
On the catwalk, Juan Mesa’s firm that mixes tradition and avant-garde, exhibits geometric pieces that generate volumes and drapes according to their construction structure. Also evening dresses along with day pieces such as sweatshirts, shirts or jackets, all united under the influence of the sun god Helios, which reflect its light with nuances and sparkles, with its colour or with embroidery and applications. The colour palette is bright and ranges from white to yellow, passing through celestial blue and gold, dusty greens and nuanced pinks against their more intense versions.
If we talk about fabrics, the new collection mixes classic materials with more contemporary and innovative ones, cotton voile, organdy, satin, mikado, silk muslin and crepes with metal fabrics, shiny and lurex finishes in Jacquard or knit, going through metallic or translucent sequins and others that create camouflage military embroidery. Fabrics that reflect light with their shine also predominate, with lurex, with satin weaves, fringed fabrics that add shine and movement, even fabrics that change their colour after continuous exposure to sunlight. In short, Helios is present from the concept to its textile manifestation.
Pilar Dalbat
Pilar Torrecillas, creative director of the brand, is inspired by the heritage monuments of her native Granada to present a harmonious collection that pays homage to native architecture.
On the catwalk, Pilar Dalbat composes 32 looks that combine linen gazar fabrics with tulle, pleats and taffetas creating new silhouettes full of transparencies. Metallic fabrics, present in the designs of each collection, also appear again this time in different textures. Evening garments are characterized by brightness, transparencies and pleats. Dresses, waistcoats and skirts that, accompanied by methacrylate embroidery and glass beads, combine with silky and neoprene tops. Lime green in taffetas, crepes and fantasy gives way to versatile and flowing garments.
In this new collection, Pilar reaffirms once again a way of making slow fashion collections, defending author fashion made in Spain.
Odette
The prêt-à-porter brand Teté by Odette presents a proposal inspired by the self-confident woman who wants to shine and who invests in completely handmade pieces made in Spain. Thus, the ‘Selena’ collection gathers the profile of its consumers with tailor-made looks for them. On the catwalk, the designer Odette Álvarez changes some patterns, now advocating femininity in a more subtle and simple way. Therefore, the silhouettes become minimalist and the fabrics caress the body creating fluid and sensual shapes.
The fabrics rich in crystal details, fringes, beads, plates and sequins, and the colours that flow between gold and silver, resounding fuchsia, white and black are the axis of this proposal inspired by the lights and shadows of the landscape. mole.
Another edition, Gratacós fabrics have made their appearance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid that was held in the Spanish capital at the beginning of March. Companies such as Brain & Beast, Dominico, Fely Campo, Malne, Redondo Brand and Teresa Helbig have trusted in our creations with new designs for the Autumn-Winter Collections 22/23. As always we have put together some of the most prominent looks with gratacós fabrics as well as the spirit that each designer wanted to transmit. It is worth remembering that it is an honour to have the confidence of these Spanish designers who, year after year, are opting for our family-run business.
Brain & Beast
Brain&Beast returned to the Madrid catwalk – after an absent edition – to claim the heritage of this Barcelona company with its usual style characterized by humor, riddles and double meanings via colour, print, unstructured patterns and references to the idols of contemporary culture. This time in Puzzle, Ángel Vilda presented a seasonless collection – irrespective of all seasons – which exhibited the playful DNA of the most rebellious company at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Garments with deconstructed phrases, patterned collage, as one that mixes the faces of Alain Delon and Catherine Deneuve, denim everywhere and impossible mixes of prints that seem to coexist effortlessly. In short, daring and casual outfits that go beyond trends because what they seek is to vindicate authenticity, a trait not always appreciated in the fashion industry.
Dominnico
Domingo Lázaro, winner of the Who’s on Next 2021 prize, with his creation Lovercross took us to a dystopian future to dive into the origins of Cyberpunk and Grunge via silhouettes of aerodynamic lines with the retro futurism of the 90’s as a connecting thread. In the new Dominnico creation proposal there is no shortage of volume or intermingled textures: Tweed, Lamé, mesh with rhinestone, laminates, taffetans, Renylon or 3D textured foams, present in long cloaks, evening dresses with asymmetric neckline or impossible hair-pieces. The dark inspiration is also represented with skewers, black leather and metallic details. As for the chromatic palette used, the Barcelona company created in 2016 is committed to primary colors and acidics, such as neon orange, fuchsia, green lime and apple and Klein blue to contrast with black, white and silver. In general this new Dominnico creation recalls the world of the motor-bike which the singer Rosalía also explores from her own private vision. We will see if together they establish a new dialogue between music and fashion.
Fely Campo
If there is a designer who has made our fabrics visible on the Madrid catwalk it is Fely Campo. The designer from Salamanca presented a luxury prêt-à-porter collection inspired by the natural beauty of the balconies of the Arribes and its landscape. This admiration is transmitted via the creation named Diafonía for the contrast of textures: the subtle beauty of nature give it the fine details, the transparencies, the vaporous tissues and the delicate reflections that open out onto the ruggedness of a more abrupt landscape, composed of coats which are firm and strong in the touch, such as those in wool. The most sober collection lines are composed of tailored volumes and oversize garments which are presented like a breastplate. Diafonía truly has constructed a feminine wardrobe which reflects the hardness and delicacy of an inspiring landscape via aesthetic counterpoint.
Malne
“Fashion is the glare of a moment, and it is also the immortality of beauty. Fashion is as ephemeral as unforgettable. ” Under this premise was framed the new Splendor creation from the Malne designers Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez. On the catwalk this winter collection is evident in the fusion of fabrics in the same garment or in the composition of each look, volumes in key garments with details ranging from pearls to feathers and the black and white binomial to represent the mystery and the brightness of fashion. For the feminine wardrobe it is an elegant and timeless creation for all those special occasions.
Redondo Brand
Jorge Redondo, creative director of Redondo Brand, gives a contemporary twist to party styles by reinterpreting the classics of elegance. The designer remembers his childhood when he admired the spectacular dresses that were exhibited on the red carpets and how one of his dreams would be to dress the celluloid stars. That glamour is behind a company that defines itself as “a very democratic guest brand” because it adapts the main trends on the catwalk to those of a real woman. In his new creation the eclecticism of americana becomes the central axis of the winter collection, an inspiration that merges with the essence of Redondo Brand to create natural volumes, asymmetric silhouettes and colour blends. Natural fibres such as silk, cotton or wool appear in different finishes and together with embroidered, glass or shiny pieces coexist between the more acidic and the most harmonizing tones. For the designer Jorge Redondo this sophisticated creation led to the L’Oréal Award for the best collection of the MBFWM at its 75th edition.
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Gratacós ends the month of April by reviewing the first Spanish catwalks of the year: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid in hybrid format and 080 Barcelona Fashion with collections presented through fashion films. These are the proposals, designs and looks that we have found on the catwalks and that are made with various seasonal fabrics. Thanks to all the designers for trusting in us!
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Brain & Beast souvenirs
Ángel Vilda, the alma mater of Brain&Beast has transmitted the concept of memory and nostalgia to the Madrid catwalk, via family memories with his new creationl ‘Souvenir’. Thus this daring designer, who turns shape, volume and colour upside down in each collection, has reverted to his childhood to reproduce garments that have marked him and that constitute valuable objects in themselves: the patterns of the dress his grandmother wore at her mother’s wedding, a coat that recalls the dressing-gown she wore on her holidays in Salou, a reconstruction of his grandfather’s dressing gown … All this personal memory takes shape via his customary design tics: oversize patterns, overlapping layers and textures, geometric motifs and some symbols inspired by contemporary culture that mix irony and humour. This company combines powerful social discourse with a strong visual identity and has managed to establish itself within the scene with its irreverent style. At Brain & Beast nothing is left to chance.
The art of volume by Isabel Sanchís
The Valencian designer once again magnifies the femininity of women via a new Autumn / Winter collection 2021/2022 full of pieces with intense silhouettes and volumes of sculptural inspiration that appeal to the five senses. To recreate these architectural figures, Isabel Sanchís uses elements such as shoulder- pads that provide volume and a certain futuristic air, drapes, embroidery, intertwined motifs, fringes and silicone appliqués. With regard to colour neutral tones, especially in grey, accompany touches of fuchsia, yellow and orange in strategic looks that reduce volume and enhance the feminine silhouette.
Maison Mesa, life is a party
Juan Carlos Mesa has actively contributed to the visibility and development of Spanish fashion. With his own company, Maison Mesa created in 2017, the designer exhibits his unique vision of fashion in a contemporary key, combining tradition (materials, classic and artisanal sewing techniques) with new technologies (3D printing and experimental materials). Under this concept the latest collection entitled ‘Rave’ was presented, inspired by the history and evolution of those bohemian parties born in London in the 50s that have been transformed over the decades into well-known electronic music events.
To represent this spirit of escape via partying Juan Carlos Mesa goes for clean and simple lines, full of references to urban clothing that stand out for their comfort and freedom of movement: wide pants and overalls, baggy pants and oversize garments. , cargo pockets, hoods and zippers, rubber or automatic, which hark back to sport garments. In terms of fabrics the designer uses a surprising mix of combinations: wool, satin and lurex twill, mixes of crepes with denim or quilted fabrics with a 3D effect together with tulle. All, within a colour range that ranges from the purest and primary colours such as yellow, green or magenta, to burgundy, indigo, grey, white or black along with touches of gold and silver.
The OFF catwalks
Parallel to the official calendar for the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid, OFF shows were also scheduled, featuring young fashion designers.
In these alternative shows we highlight designers who habitually trust our fabrics, like Dominnico. This time Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro is inspired by the social crisis of coronavirus to create an imaginary uncertain future through the eyes of a generation of young people who want to socialize at a moment of emotional breakdown. To recreate this concern Dominnico goes for an upcycling exercise, recovering part of the brand’s fur leather inventory to create new pieces. In addition the denim fabric that appears with exclusive prints and also a new genderless fashion line is given prominence.
For her part, Pilar Torrecillas from the company Pilar Dalbat has presented a collection dedicated to the figure of Mariano Fortuny Madraza, taking as reference the 150th anniversary of the birth of this famous painter from Granada. We highlight the feminine designs featuring our fabrics with small fringes creating an interesting hair effect.
The Corsicana firm of Paula Currást tends to merge different disciplines and interests for its catwalk shows: fashion, design, cinema or music all appear together. The latest collection focuses on the home as a space for inspiration. ‘La Casa’ represents reflections on an environment of intimacy and introspection via fluid designs of urban inspiration, sartorial garments and pleated fabrics that are combined in a very controlled colour range.
Finally, Montenegro, the debut of Nicolás Montenegro on the Madrid catwalk with a ready-to-wear proposal inspired by southern Morocco. The Sevillian’s creations abound in shirt dresses inspired by Moroccan djellaba with materials such as silk. The extremely striking cuffs and collars with character are some of the details that the creator applies to his shirts. Exceptional pieces that are dotted with lace, ruffles and delicate finishes, always topped by the company’s hand-made buttons.
080 Barcelona Fashion
The glamour of Avellaneda invades the Catalan catwalk
Juan Avellaneda has opened the 080 Barcelona Fashion calendar with a proposal that invites you to dream via sophisticated looks full of fantasy that connect with beauty, joy, escape and the desire to celebrate life. Thus in the proposal ‘La nuit éclairée’ the celebrity designer opts for the characteristic features that make up his DNA: tuxedos for men and women together with classic shirt and tailoring patterns, introducing novelties such as porcelain-china inspired prints and a collection of dresses inspired by tailored garments. The chromatic range makes a return to essentials via pure and energetic colours such as white, black, red and Klein blue that suggest Mediterranean culture and its celebration of the essential.
The magic of Menchén Tomàs
Menchén Tomás is inspired by the ‘Duende’ for the next Spring-Summer 2021 collection, that is, by the innate and intangible talent that causes almost magical sensations in those who witness it. In a fairy tale atmosphere and with various elements that refer to the tarot, Olga Menchén showed off her usual design skills through a sophisticated and feminine collection, full of volatile volumes, iridescent fabrics, radiant colours, evocative long dresses where craftsmanship is appreciated: prints suggesting astral charts, embroidered flowers and a laboriously- created wedding dress with almost a hundred hand-sewn pieces that closed the show. The use of oriental-inspired silk and patterned gauze with colours such as porcelain- blue, apple- green or mandarin- orange give the collection an energetic air.
The experimental craft of Y_Como
Born during lock-down, Y_Como is the new adventure of sisters Cristina and Yolanda Pérez, founders of Yolancris, the Catalan haute couturehouse that has catwalked in Paris. This new brand was born with the desire to explore the creative processes of the pieces, experimenting through innovative techniques, fabrics and silhouettes. The debut collection was actually presented at 080 Barcelona Fashion and is a declaration of intentions: it reclaims the spirit of freedom via the humanist poem ‘If’ by Rudyard Kipling in a manifesto that also combines the Arts & Crafts movement of designer William Morris and the naturalist architecture of Antoni Gaudí. Thus this proposal of great visual richness is in practice a great exhibition of the craftsmanship and experimentation of its designers. Particularly noteworthy is the meticulous way in which they have worked denim through draping, pleating and hand embroidery, together with hand-made prints and embroideries with floral and plant motifs. An exquisite hand-made proposal makes such a difference.
The free love of Paola Molet
Finally we also highlight Paola Molet who has made her debut on the Catalan catwalk with her own company, which was created 6 months ago. Her style is defined as neo-romantic and the collection is genderless, non gender-specific, with pieces that can be interchangeable. The proposed creation for next winter deals with how society understands love and the pursuit of happiness, whether following established canons or not. The young designer transmits this search in design through rigid, dense, hard and straight-shaped looks that are combined with de-constructed silhouettes and contrasting fabrics. The proposal is mostly black and white, with a touch of red.
I hope you enjoyed the collections as much as we did!
The catwalks of Madrid and Barcelona are both preparing their Spanish fashion week, where the best designers on the national scene will meet to present the Autumn-Winter 2020/2021 collections. As usual, at Gratacós we will be giving close attention to the new fabrics that will be presented on the catwalk in the form of original creations. Designers who trust in us always surprise us!
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid is preparing a new edition with the participation of three key names in Spanish design that increase its range: the return of Pertegaz, which will the first time take to the catwalk and will do so with the signing of Galician fashion designer Jorge Vázquez; the Seville company Fernando Claro and Dominnico, which will be an extensive feature of the MBFWMadrid catwalk. These three companies are the highlights of the fashion event that will be held between January 28 and February 2 at IFEMA. Along with the new additions, the composition of the parade calendar is made up of 37 leading Spanish designers and brands such as Ana Locking, Devota & Lomba, The 2nd Skin Co, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Pedro del Hierro, Custo Barcelona, Angel Schelesser, Brain & Beast, Devota & Lomba , Andrés Sardá, Juan Vidal, among others. This edition of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid will also have a tribute to the designer Andrés Sardá, who passed away last September.
In this case, for the Madrid catwalk we will be following the Dominnico and Brain & Beast parades live and focus on the looks of Moisés Nieto, Mans Concept Menswear, Angel Schelesser, Ulises Mérida, Juan Vidal, Beatriz Peñalver, The 2nd Skin Co, Eduardo Navarrete and Teresa Helbig, who in turn will present the new designs for Iberia.
The Madrid catwalk will also pay tribute to Andrés Sardá , founder of the international lingerie firm, who died last September. The collection that will be presented is a tribute to his life, a review of the evolution of the company that forever changed intimate and bathroom fashion in Spain. The family firm took its first steps making shawls like the one Jackie Kennedy wore on her visit to Spain. Then they made the leap into lingerie and, in the 70s, to bathroom-wear. Women like Lady Gaga, Julianne Moore or Shakira have worn their creations. Luxury and comfort are the two key features of the company, headed today by Núria Sardá.
080 Barcelona Fashion
In Barcelona 080 Barcelona Fashion returns to its usual setting: the Sant Pau Modernist Venue that will incorporate new presentation formats in this edition, which seeks to be more international. Thus the latestt edition, that will take place from February 3-6, will feature prominent companies such as South Africa’s CHULAAP, the Asian-born Peruvian designer Esau Yori, the New York company Love Binetti, the designers Yiorgos Eleftheriades and Boris Bidjan, who will return to the parade in Barcelona after eleven seasons presenting his collections in Paris.
At Gratacós we will follow closely the new Menchen Tomàs collection inspired by the Manhattan of the 70s and the debut of Avellaneda with his range of feminine tailoring, and Eikò Ai , the company of the Barcelona designer Glòria Lladó. This brand will present Quantum One, a collection that takes as its reference quantum energy and the unity of the cosmos in its hand-made and locally produced design creations. We will see what they surprise us with!
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080 Barcelona Fashion,
Beatriz Peñalver,
Brain & Beast,
Christian Simmon.,
Edu Navarrete,
Gratacós en la pasarela,
La Condesa,
Malne,
Mans Concept Menswear,
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid,
tejidos Gratacós pasarela,
The 2nd Skin Co
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
As usual, the Gratacós fabrics have also been present in the latest edition of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid in the Spring-Summer 2019 collections presented by the best designers of current Spanish fashion. Consolidated firms that confide in us such as Juan Duyos, Menchèn Tomás, The 2nd Skin, Malne, Moisés Nieto, Palomo Spain and also young designers who are building a promising future in the sector such as Juan Carlos Pajares who is already integrated into the official calendar of the Madrid show, after his participation in the catwalks of emerging talents.
Here we reveal some details of the collections for the next summer season, as well as the fabrics and colours that were shown that most caught our attention. Roughly speaking, we would highlight the success of colour, the fabrics that radiate light, the metallic fibres and the sequins that also conquer the street looks and add that air of sophistication.
Duyos’ light
Juan Duyos pays homage to the light, in an ode to feminine beauty that shines the brightest. It is for this reason that in the collection ‘Light’, luminous fabrics such as metallic, paillettes, lurex, lame and several metallic threads stand out and capture all the flashes – and looks – on Madrid’s catwalk. In contrast to the bright materials, this proposal is tinted in ice green, lavender, lime or peach that coexist with gold and silver.
The strength of Anonymous women
Juan Carlos Pajares, one of the most successful emerging talents of Spanish fashion always surprises on the Spanish catwalk. This time, the designer from Madrid has found in the Amazons his source of inspiration in a collection that pays tribute to all those women who hid behind pseudonyms and even had to stop working or doing what they were passionate about. In the show, this spirit is transmitted through colour with a palette that includes pinks, greens, oranges, blues and greys. The blends of textures, oriental reminiscence prints and the superposition of urban garments made in formal fabrics are also noteworthy: mikado and silk ottomans, cottons, neoprenes, crepes, paillettes or vichys with touches of lurex.
In cuban lands
“Me desordeno, amor, me desordeno”, recites the poem by Carilda Oliver, one of the most reknowned contemporary poetesses in Cuba who has inspired the new Menchén Tomàs collection together with other artists such as Catalina Lasa and Lidia Ríos who lived in the greatest splendor of Cuban society before the revolution. It is precisely in the heart of the Havana where the Barcelona designer finds inspiration for her spring-summer fashion show. A sophisticated proposal arranged in three parts. The first begins with pure white, “the colour of Santeria” according to the designer ” with textured details. In the second part, the clothes turn quartz, the stone of the subsoil of the island. In the last part, there is an explosion of colour resulting in a happy and optimistic result.
Malne and the empowered woman
The creative duo behind Malne: Paloma Álvarez and Juanjo Mánez have presented a collection that plays with the mix & match in fabrics and prints for women who feel strong and free and transmit that spirit of rebellion. The animal print combines perfectly with dancer touches and maxi volumes with ruffles and feathers forming a solid and well-constructed proposal that structures the entire collection. Only suitable for the daring…
Palomo Spain
The enfant terrible of Spanish fashion, who revolutionizes the male wardrobe with his glamorous looks. This time he has inspired himself in the cabinets of curiosities to dress men in sophisticated style. Thus, Alejandro Gómez Palomo fills the catwalk with his exotic models that include wild silks and extravagant volumes, tortoiseshell buttons, sophisticated outfits in velvet jersey that are crowned with luxurious mosquito-net hats inspired by the explorers of the XIX century. The proposal by Palomo Spain is enriching, the kaftans, the jacket sets and the skirts in laminated fabrics and linen for the pure and traditional lines.
A full volumen Spring
Juan Carlos Fernández and Antonio Burillo presented ‘The Garden’, a dreamlike proposal inspired by a romantic garden. In this spring collection, The 2nd Skin focuses on dresses as main axis, maxi volumes, oversize garments and floral print as the basis of this evocative collection with a marked eighties air. In terms of fabrics, the mikados stand out, embroidered sequins -symbol of the brand- along with other lighter ones like tulle or silk chiffon.
Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.