Feminine beauty has undergone a historical change in its conception and representation over time, and especially in the last half century. If we talk about beauty portrayed, the famous Pirelli calendar has become a tangible reflection of this transformation, being an everyday object that has played an important role in the representation of women in the world of fashion and photography.
Known for its iconic and sensual images that decorated mechanical workshops, garages and truck cabins in its early days, the Pirelli calendar has evolved over time to reflect social and cultural changes in the perception of femininity and the empowerment of women. . Now, the FotoNostrum gallery in Barcelona exposes this evolution by presenting the largest retrospective ever held of the iconic almanac of the renowned tyre company.
Beauty narrated by the best photographers
Under the title of ‘ L’Eterna Bellezza ‘, the exhibition exhibits more than 450 snapshots captured by 41 masters of fashion photography, who have contributed to making the Pirelli Calendar a legend in the world of photographic art. Masters like Peter Lindbergh, Annie Leibovitz, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts , Paolo Roversi , Mario Testino , Steve McCurry, Bruce Weber, Patrick Demarchelier and Richard Avedon , among others, have portrayed over the years the sensuality of women, including models such as Gisele Bündchen , Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Gigi Hadid and Kate Moss; actresses like Monica Bellucci, Sofia Loren, Laetitia Casta, Jessica Chastain , Penélope Cruz, Uma Thurman , Kate Winslet , and Robin Wright, and singers like Cher, Rosalía, and Patti Smith.
Beyond the sensuality that becomes evident in some cases through the nakedness of the body, what draws attention in the exhibition is the change in gaze. In this sense, ‘ L’Eterna Bellezza ‘, protected by Amadeo M. Turello , Italian curator and preserver of the Pirelli Collection since 2015, has not wanted to ignore all the stages of the Pirelli calendar, from its beginnings in 1964 to 2022, through images that show everything from nudes where the The models’ bodies are presented explicitly as an advertising claim, as well as other more evocative images with messages of vindication of feminine power, which go beyond mere eroticism.
The images shown not only reveal the poetics of individual authors on the female body, they also constitute a reflection of society, aesthetics and the arts in the last 60 years. Thus, the exhibition reflects how the photographic language has evolved over time, highlighting other aspects such as fashion and pop culture of each era.
From object to subject
The Pirelli calendar was first launched in 1964 and has become a symbol of beauty, style and elegance. A leading photographer on the London scene, Robert Freeman, who was a personal friend of The Beatles, was commissioned to create a “beautiful calendar” and had complete creative freedom to do so. This talented photographer selected representative models of the time and took them to the beaches of Mallorca for a cheerful and informal shoot that captured the essence of that moment marked by an emerging counterculture and the sexual revolution.
At that time, calendars with images of women already existed and were used as a marketing tool in the automotive industry. Pirelli wanted to give his celebrated almanac a more sophisticated image and, in his quest for good taste, partnered early on with leading photographers of each era to provide their artistic vision of female beauty. The first calendars caused a sensation, but despite the change, they still reflected old stereotypes: women in pin-up poses displayed their bodies as objects of desire.
As time progressed, Pirelli changed its approach and adapted to the new changes, celebrating values such as diversity, talent, individualism and authenticity to portray a beauty that goes beyond the purely aesthetic and focuses on the personality and the way of being of the woman. In the 21st century, the Pirelli calendar has challenged traditional beauty canons and has captured the essence of successful women in various fields, such as music, cinema, fashion, sports and activism, promoting a more inclusive and empowered vision. of women in society.
The woman also as creator
Women are the absolute protagonists in the history of the Pirelli calendar, but they have not always been in the spotlight. The tyre brand has highlighted the role of women as creators and protagonists in the world of fashion and photography, providing a platform for female photographers to express their artistic vision and talent. This has been demonstrated by photographers such as Sarah Moon, Joyce Tenneson and Annie Leibovitz, who has worked twice for Pirelli.
The latest signing for the creation of the famous calendar has been Emma Summerton , who has been inspired by the classic figure of the muse to vindicate the role of women as creators. For the Australian photographer, the conception of beauty transcends faces and bodies, and has given the models participating in the calendar, such as Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne or Ashley Graham, an artistic role linked to the power they represent in life real. Thus, in a dreamlike setting with a great charge of fantasy and ornamental precision, the ” Summerton muses ” are presented as authentic warriors, queens, activists or writers in the 2023 edition of the Pirelli calendar.
Precisely, some of these fresh new images can also be seen in the retrospective of the Pirelli calendar, which will be open to the public until the 30th July at the FotoNostrum gallery in Barcelona.
The Rec industrial district is coming alive with a new edition of REC.0 Experimental Stores, the retail genuine experiment where major brands and independent designers sell their stocks at the old tanneries of this picturesque area of Igualada. As you know, Rec.0 is an unprecedented and unique special sales concentration, a festival for the senses that encompasses fashion, culture and gastronomy in an ephemeral format.
For the first time, the summer edition will be held in May, from 10 to 13 and in total 88 fashion brands will be involved, divided into 52 pop up stores that combine the industrial heritage of the city with the creativity of areas of fashion.
In this edition, Rec.015 has managed to attract new brands such as Carhartt, Sebago, Tiny Cottons or Castañer, extending an unprecedented offer. The big international brands like Levi’s, Adidas, Pepe Jeans, Mango, Camper retain their faith in the event, as do local firms like Sita Murt, Punto Blanco, Javier Simorra or Pretty Ballerinas. Sport and urban fashion are also featured in the Rec with Adidas, Fox Head, Santa Cruz, Wesc or Buff.
A design area for 080 Barcelona Fashion
Rec.0 continues to opt for independent design and aims to position itself as a great platform of sales and promotion of Catalan fashion. For the first time, the parade 080 Barcelona Fashion and REC.0 join forces to create a large area devoted to Catalan emerging fashion: the pop up store that will house 080 new designers and brands like Carlota Oms, SSIC and Paul, Les Chausseurs, Pau Esteve or Rita Row, besides the designers Dorotea, IKA Editions, Loa, Maria Roch or Kinetik Supply. As in each edition, the event features the trident of Catalan design formed by Txell Miras, Miriam Ponsa and Josep Abril, who are joined by other leading companies such as Who, Ingrid Munt, Gorni Kramer, David Valls, Poison in the Skin, Cuirum, Susi Sweet Dress or Jordi Rafart, among others. They will be joined by the winner of the Time Out fashion award, which is awarded to an original and dynamic proposal to promote young talent.
More gastronomy and culture
In culinary terms, the Rec Street Food Festival has widened its range with new pop up bars by local chefs and food trucks featuring different international cuisine. Furthermore, there will also be pop and rock concerts and book presentations for all ages with different themes such as illustration or gastronomy. For the little ones there are also some activities planned so that the whole family can enjoy an evening of shopping, leisure and entertainment.
This week, as its 080 Barcelona Fashion, we had the pleasure of interviewing Pedro Covelo. A young fashion designer who originates from Galicia, but is now based in Barcelona. Thanks to his talent, effort and meticulous handiwork, he won the last edition of Modafad – the young creators fashion show. Consequentially he also won the scholarship given out by Gratacós in collaboration with this organization.
Do you remember the moment when you decided you were going to focus your career in fashion?
As I always say, I never decided anything at any particular moment. It was all progressive and I gradually got more and more involved. It is something I feel very at ease with.
From Vigo to Barcelona. What brought you to this city?
The truth is I have always liked Barcelona for its European movement and its design. It is a city which has a constant flow of people from all over the world, with projects and very interesting ideas. A city where you can get a learn lots of things if you know how to make the most of it.
Do you miss anything from your home town?
I have never been very nostalgic, I live the present and enjoy life every moment. If I was to mention anything, I would say living with my parents and not having to worry about anything related to my house.
Which icons have helped you develop your own style?
The way I see it, each person’s taste is created from millions of little inputs that you receive from all over. In terms of design, my top three are Prada, Anderson and the new Gucci.
Have you had any experiences that have marked your creative outlook?
I could tell you so many things that in the end it is the summary of the last 5 years in Barcelona, different people I have met and travelling.
Where do get the ideas for your collections? Which is the first step you take when creating them?
In my case, I usually start off from an image I have seen and I associate it to a concept which I have in mind at the time. Following that, I think of a final idea I would like to undertake, a fabric, the cut, the type of beauty, the essence of collection in general.
How important are the fabrics in your design? Do you have a preference for a specific one?
VERY IMPORTANT. And more so in my case, as the patterns are cleaner and without volume. The fabrics are what I experiment most with; printing, embroidering, combining them and using unusual fabrics in masculine fashion. I cannot say I have a preference for any particular one, as each collection breathes a different spirit, and has completely different fabrics and theme.
With which materials would you like to experiment in the future?
Now I am at a phase where I am interested in patchwork, mixing leather with other fabrics such as denim. However, as an idea for the long term future, I would say that my leitmotiv, in each collection is to try printing different fabrics with completely different textures and see how each one works. I find this very interesting.
If you could choose any place, where would you like to see your designs?
Amberes or Asia.
Can you give us anything away about your upcoming collection?
America, end of the sixties, country music sounds, the smell of earth and a bit of women.
Gratacós has been chosen as a finalist to receive the National Fashion Award in the category of Leading Textile Industry, tanning and other raw materials. This category recognizes the importance of the manufacturing industry of all types of yarns, fabrics, leather and other raw materials.
This is now the second edition of the National Fashion Awards. An event organized by the Ministry of Industry, Energy and Tourism to recognize the merits of the Spanish Fashion Industry and vouch for the prestige of this sector. The finalists are those companies, individuals, institutions or organizations that have made a special effort to achieve entrepreneurial excellence in the sector.
The Committee of the Technical Evaluation of the National Fashion Award is made up of ten professional experts in Administration and Fashion Industry. The jury’s decision and award ceremony is to be convened and will take place before the summer.
Gratacós was present in the last edition of the Fashion and Communication Seminar that took place in the Traje Museum (Madrid). The seminar was hosted in cooperation with the Villanueva University (part of the the Madrid Computense University) and their degree in Communication and Fashion Management (CGM).
In this IX edition, Juan Gratacós, executive director of Gratacós, relayed the importance of the creation of fabrics as an element to differentiate oneself and also to bring value to the fashion industry:
“On the catwalks, you see the fashion show and the garment surrounded by glamour. In fabrics, however, you will never see the brand nor be able to appreciate it on an individual or collective level. We want people to recognize us, because the risk is that the industry is disappearing. We want to show the public that we make something as important as the fabric that make the clothes in our country. If we don’t, in the end, they will go somewhere else and look for it cheaper. We need to differentiate ourselves from the fabrics that come from abroad. We want the garment to have a differentiating value.”
You can read the full interview with Juan Gratacós and the Communication and Fashion Management degree by clicking on the following link.
Gratacós has the pleasure of introducing Unlimit, the fourth edition of forecast of trends and contrast-material inspirations for Autumn/Winter 2016-2017 by The Color Community.
The presentation will take place in Barcelona on the 24th April at 5pm in the Pau Gil conference room in the Hospital San Pau historic site (C/Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167). Participants include three members of The Color Community team: Gloria Jover, Pere Ortega and Rosa Pujol.
The Color Community is the result of four design professionals who got together to share in a cross cutting way the studio, their expertise and capture of colour. The team is led by Gloria Jover (designer and cool-hunter), Eva Muñoz (specialist in colour&trim), Pere Ortega (architect and teacher) and Rosa Pujol (stylist and textile designer).
The presentation of trends for upcoming seasons is an activity which is especially beneficial for young students studying fashion. Gratacós has been developing this twice a year since 2006.
Photo by The Color Community
On this occasion, a competition will be held amongst the design students attending the presentation. The winner will have the opportunity to participate in the next meeting of The Color Community; an important gathering where the forecast of colour range for the next season Spring/Summer 2017 will be decided. Those who want to take part in the competition must write a text explaining the reasons why they would like to participate and also what they can contribute to the meeting. The Gratacós and The Color Community teams will check through all the questionnaires and decide upon the winner.
Gratacós has the great pleasure of collaborating with GG Fashion Market, one of the most important book fairs for fashion publications in Spanish. The event will take place on Thursday 16th and Friday 17th April at the headquarters of the publishing house Gustavo Gili (C/Rosselló 87-89, Barcelona).
The book fair will offer a wide variety of publications that analyze the industry of fashion from various sectors: design, pattern, illustration, marketing, history and sociology. All the books on sale will benefit from a 10% discount.
As has become customary in past editions, this year the competition GGmoda will also be held for fashion students. The common theme of this edition is sustainable fashion with publications such as: “Moda ética para un futuro sostenible” (Ethical fashion for a sustainable future) by Elena Salcedo, and “Moda sostenible” (Sustainable Fashion) by Alison Gwilt.
The jury is made up by Gloria Casacuberta (responsable for communication for the Gratacós shop) acting as president with the participation of Fiona Capdevila (textile artisan and founding member of the Association of Sustainable Fashion in Barcelona), Charo Mora (fashion journalist) and Carmen H. Bordas (fashion editor for GG). The winner will be announced Thursday 16th at 7pm.
The 10 participating schools: 7 from Barcelona, 1 from Sabadell, 1 from Palma de Mallorca and 1 from Valencia, will exhibit their designs in the hall of the publishing house during the GG Fashion market. Furthermore, as part of the prize, the winning designs will be exhibited in our new space opening shortly in Riera Sant Miquel (Gràcia).
Amongst the novelties this edition we mention the Student Market. An outdoor market which will be set up in front of the publishing house headquarters, where design students can sell their creations. For more information, you can visit the following link for the Gustavo Gili website.
Photos: Pirelli / FotoNostrum Barcelona
