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We’ve already announced it on social networks and also, some days ago , via the new November shop-window. It’s exactly one week before Gratacós hosts the most revolutionary fashion pop up in Barcelona: it is Sastreria Moderna , a unique initiative that gives a twist to the traditional concept of clothing through local designers who present a capsule collection of clothes and accessories made with different fabrics from the new collection.

In this fifth edition, Sastreria Moderna has invited 13 designers of different styles with a common philosophy: the commitment to conscious and conscientious slow-cooking fashion that emphasizes craftsmanship and detail. What is really interesting about this one-off initiative is that the participating designers make unique clothes and accessories in a special collection of our fabrics and where the customer can try them on site before purchasing.  How should they be worn? This is the magic of Modern Sastreria : they are made exclusively on request and clients can choose a variation of fabric colour or a small modification of the design to their own specification.  Within a fortnight orders can be collected either in our shop or at the client’s chosen address.

The collection has already taken shape

Each designer has made only two or three pieces within their own particular style using our fabrics and together they make up this capsule collection of Modern Sastreria. Each garment has a special, personal quality, a total guarantee that it has been made with great care both with regard to workshop quality fabrics and to those chosen by the designers: velvet, jacquard, lamé, tweed, crepe and even fringes! In this elaborate design feature there will be long dresses, asymmetrical skirts, shirts for boys and girls, wide trousers, jackets, bags, turbans, belts and even a mini -series of necklaces.In total there are almost thirty textile designs to choose from!

The real protagonists

Who are the designers participating in this edition? In total there are 9 clothing designers and they are: KM by LANGE, GIAN, Ana Tichy , Ene de Narcisa, Montse Cañadas, Lucía Rodríguez, Deltravés , Enero and Norima . The 4 accessory designers are Greta Serra (handbags), AndreaViêntëc (turbans), Mireia Fusté (jewelry) and Kimôh (belts). The capsule collection of the designers is accompanied by a series of brands of accessories that share the values of slow fashion and which will take the opportunity to sell their products during the fashion pop up: Becker & Co , Mireia Fustéand Philo K (jewelry) , The Henten Bag (bags and purses), Anna Perich (silk scarves), Eva vs Maria (shoes) and Verbena ( diadems ) and Andrea Viêntëc (turbans).

Do not miss the live show!

The pop up of Sastreria Moderna will be held on November 29 and 30 and Saturday, December 1 in the Gratacós shop. On these three days of sales anything can happen. For example, on Thursday and Saturday (from 6:00 pm to 8:00 pm) there will be a live sketching session led by the illustrator Lucy Davis, who will draw small lamina plates for all those interested. On Friday (from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.), the designer Anna Perich will also give a demonstration of art & silk and will paint white silk fabrics and turn them into unique and multi-coloured handkerchiefs.

We hope to see you!

2018 is the year of the new MODA-FAD . Located in the Disseny Hub de Barcelona, the fashion association integrated in the FAD (Promotion of Arts and Design) gives voice and visibility to local designers. It is an entity formed by fashion professionals from different areas, from clothing to footwear, which presents initiatives that help to give continuity to designers with a commercial vocation, a titanic task in these times.

In April MODA-FAD emerged with a new board of directors and with commitments, challenges and projects that value the professionals of fashion, design and craftsmanship that we hope will set a new clarion cry. In this first stage of the association the designer Edgar Carrascal assumed the presidency accompanied by his right hand, Mireia Playà, who specialises in vegan footwear. Also participating in the initiative are Elisenda Oms and Elisabet Carlota of Carlota Oms, Antonio Calderón and Pau Esteve.

The spirit of the new Association for the Promotion of Fashion makes clear its intentions to defend the Barcelona brand and to seek internationalization, to contribute to the business development and the industrial fabric of the country and the “dignification” of trades related to fashion. It also has the didactic aim of sharing knowledge and assuming a teaching role in the consumption of fashion, aiming to provide the necessary tools for conscious and sustainable consumption.

The MODA-FAD Awards

Within the framework of Barcelona Design Week, the new MODA-FAD Awards are to be promoted in a ceremony and afterwards a party that will take place next Wednesday June 6 in the Disseny Hub Barcelona. Awards are aimed at recognizing the work of professionals and companies in the world of fashion and who have made contributions to the sector during the last year. In total prizes will be awarded in three different categories: Merit in Fashion Design, Merit in Fashion Innovation and Talent of the Year Award. Special recognition will also be granted to a designer or brand that is not active, but whose contribution in the fashion sector is valued.

The winners

In this first edition the designer Víctor von Schwarz with his Double Life collection, 2018 is the winner of the Merit Award in Fashion Design . His tendentious presentation highlights the precariousness of the sector and the difficulties faced by emerging designers, “the new generation” whose double life between creativity and reality usually lasts no more than 10 years. As a representation of this ‘Double Life’ the collection is divided into two parts: one purely in black and white with shapes that are inspired by office attire, the other more imaginative with glitter, voluminous shapes and pastel shades.

The Merit Award for Innovation in Fashion goes to Piñatex ® by Ananas Anam, a company that is developing a product in which commercial success is integrated and social, ecological and cultural development is promoted in parallel. Working from this perspective, Piñatex ® opts for a non-woven natural base material that consumers can use as a sustainable alternative. The material is made from pine leaf fibres, a product from the agricultural industry that does not require large amounts of land, water or pesticides to produce the raw material.

The Talent of the Year Award goes to Pepa Salazar, one of the most promising talents in Spanish fashion. Established in Madrid, this Valencian designer presented her first collection in 2013 for which she won the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Award Talent in the next edition. In the Autumn-Winter 18/19 collection, the designer presents a universe marked by the images of the absurd, fictitious and utopian, belonging to the mythology and paganism of primitive cultures. The jury considered that her latest creation is rich in colours and textures, has character and strength and an identity of its own recognisable in all of Pepa Salazar’s collections.

Finally Gori de Palma receives the Special Award from the Board of the New MODA-FAD. The essence of the designer is condensed into the industrial and the dense, all within a post-punk filter. Her signature is that of a refined and obscure author, with a perverse touch based on sub-cultural movements.

In the first edition of the awards tribute will also be paid to the figure of the Catalan dressmaker and businesswoman Carme Martí Riera (1872-1949), a professional with strong ideals who fought to dignify the profession of dressmaker, besides being the creator of the Martí System , the first technique of pattern making with a technical rigour that was celebrated world-wide.

Attendees of this annual celebration of Barcelona’s fashion talent will also be able to see the exhibition “The best design of the year”, where pieces by the winners of these awards will be on display. This sample in addition brings together 500 finalist works and winners of the different prizes awarded by the associations of the FAD in the various design disciplines.

Maria Fontanellas is part of this new generation of designers who have managed to form their own brand and struggle every day to find their place in an industry that is avid for novelties, but also fierce. From a family of tanners from Igualada, one of the textile cribs of Catalonia, the young creator tries to promote Mietis abroad with a young team that helps her in the design, positioning and business tasks. In her debut at the 080 Barcelona Fashion show last year, Maria Fontanellas won the Emerging Talent Award. We discuss her upcoming projects…

Tell us what we are going to see in the new collection that you present at the 080 Barcelona Fashion…

The collection ‘Safari to Wonderland ‘ is inspired by the world of the jungle in which exotic animals with well-defined colours and textures will appear and I pay special attention to details. I was also inspired by the glam rock style of the 70s and these two ideas will be mixed together. This collection will be an evolution of the previous proposal.

And how do we visualize this safari glam on the catwalk?

To recreate the animals there will be feathers and specific patterns. You can also see patent materials, bright fabrics and a lot of colour because this proposal is about blocks of colour. I will also use the skin a lot because it is something that defines me and there will be elements from the world of the motor with biker jackets and jackets with military airs.

“The skin is the material that defines Mietis”

The skin as a material is also a symbol of Igualada, specifically the industrial district of Rec…

Yes, the skin connects with my brand and with my family. As a matter of fact the workshop of Mietis is located inside the tannery where my father has the factory.

How has the family business influenced you?

It has completely influenced me because my father beyond being a tanner and businessman also likes fashion. He encouraged me to pursue my dreams by launching a skin line and helped me create my own brand. On my part, I studied in Milan and just two years ago I graduated and I passed a pattern making and sewing course which was very useful for design.

Family support, visibility on the Catalan catwalk … It’s not a bad start!

Yes, in this case winning the prize of 080 has allowed me to launch my second collection and in my house I have part of the infrastructure of the tannery where I have the clothing and design workshop. The rest you have to do yourself and it consists of hours and hours of work.

“They have helped me, but the rest you have to do it yourself”

Even so, the beginnings must not have been easy…

They are difficult and you constantly need support from other external elements. Always look out and make contacts to avoid losing business opportunities. For example, the brand right now has a showroom in Paris wher the collections are on show to promote them in the different international markets.

What is the next challenge for Mietis?

The most immediate has been the launch of the website with a capsule collection of leather jackets and bags. Gradually, I will also be introducing the spring collection to see how it is responding amongst consumers. In parallel and with my team we are looking for new multi-brand distribution channels to make the brand bigger.

“In Gratacós there is always something new and interesting”

What role does Gratacós play in all this set up?

I have been coming to your shop since I was 17 years old and I made my first research work with your fabrics. I’ve also designed dresses and I’ve always come here since I’ve been in fashion. In Gratacós, I feel at home and I love the fabrics that you offer, especially the fancy ones. I rely a lot on the fabrics and then design the collections. I love your lace, brocade, Jacquards … There is always something new and interesting!

And how do you see the future of Mietis? Do you rule out working for others? I do not rule out collaborating or nurturing other brands, but today I am focused on what is mine and I am very excited to move forward.

The Gratacós questionnaire…

Your indispensable garment … A leather jacket

A fetish fabric … Organza

A colour you never give up … Bright colors

A designer you admire… Raf Simons

An infallible style rule… Always put some colour in your life

A space that inspires you… The Marchesi cafeteria in Milán

A word of advice for the designers starting out… Learn also how to sew

Your ‘leit motiv’… Put passion into your work

The agenda of fashion events linked to culture or heritage takes off in autumn. Now in November we recommend to you two plans where you will find the best design locally at more affordable prices. Don’ t miss them!

REC.0, new edition of the festival of pop up larger stores in Europe

All the arrangements are now ready for the district of Igualada Rec hosting a new edition the REC.0, retail experiment that has revolutionized this so emblematic city suburb through the radical sale of clothing and accessories from fashion brands and emerging designers at a local level within the old tanning factories. Not surprisingly, it has become the biggest festival of pop up stores in Europe with up to 100 brands installed in 50 temporary comercial áreas for only four days: from 8 to 11 November.

In this edition new brands are included that increase what this commercial and cultural event has to offer, such as Reebok, Quiksilver, DC, Boboli, Little Creative Factory, Sessùn or Furest. Also they confirm the presence of other small firms with local production as Bless the Mess, Nou Moscada,Maria Roch, Woody’s Barcelona or Colmillo de Morsa.

Indeed, one of the singularities that makes the REC.0 event unique is the convergence of large international firms with consolidated designers and local design. So in the same street of this industrial neighborhood the visitor can find the factories of the companies Levis, Adidas and Mango firms, with pop up stores from Catalan designers like Txell Miras, Miriam Ponsa or Josep Abril, companies with international presence here such as Antonio Miró, Punto Blanco or Castañer and small local firms that have an interesting story to tell. In this regard, the REC.0 is establishing six specific áreas for firms like Costalamel, Carlota Oms, SSIC and Paul, Pau Esteve, IKA Editions, Les Chausseurs, Dorotea, Loa, Rita Row or Kinetik Supply among others,who will provide what is a unique and differentiated offer.

We highlight the 080 Barcelona Fashion Award and REC.0 which the Catalan catwalk and the organization are encouraging to promote the presence of designers and emerging brands. This time the winning company Killing Weekend will provide the siting of a pop up store in the designers’ area during the four days of REC.0.
Finally it should be noted that apart from the fashion offer that continues to be the main axis of the REC.0, this temporary event is complemented by an extensive free cultural programme and offers a wide range of food for all audiences (and tastes).

Palo Alto Market brings together more than 100 emerging creative designers

The most emblematic market in the Poble Nou district of Barcelona is preparing a special edition focused on local design. On this occasion, Palo Alto Market will get together on 18 and 19 November some of the brands and designers with more than 100 emerging and independent creative talents, with which they share the same essence : crazy production, high quality fabrics, artisan spirit, traditional manufacturing techniques, sustainable processes and limited editions. The edition ‘High Design, Nice Price ‘opts for the philosophy # shopsmall, rediscovering and promoting local talent through an ethical, aesthetic and current consumption with exclusive designs from small producers, all designed and made in Barcelona.

Among participating fashion firms are companies such as Camper, Med Winds, Ika Editions, Miriam Ponsa, Josep Abril, Txell Miras or for contemporary jewelry Berta Sumpsi.

In addition, market– goers will also enjoy concerts by Paula Grande, the New Yorker Jonah Smith, the electronic pop duo North State or songs penned by Genís Pena.

080 Barcelona Fashion is celebrating.  The catwalk, which will take place from 26 to 30 June in the Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, is celebrating its 20th edition with a large fashion programme that goes beyond parades to include more parallel activities, business conferences, evening parties, special presentations and a guest of honour who will become one of the main advertisements for the Catalan catwalk.

The Missoni saga in Barcelona

In this edition, Margherita Missoni, third generation of the prestigious Italian firm, will collect the Fashion Tribute which the parade is devoting to his mother,  Angela Missoni,  current co – owner and creative director of the brand.  In turn, Margherita will offer a talk about the Missoni saga and its influence on fashion entitled “The Missoni Family.  Born into fashion “.  This talk will be shared with Vogue ex-director Lisa Lowatt-Smith.

The debut of new talents

In the field of design there are some absentees, such as Sita Murt, Menchén Tomàs or TCN, but for the first time on the catwalk there are emerging talents like Mietis, Jnorig, AMT or  the designers Colmillo de Morsa  who we interviewed a few months ago.  For the first time in Catalonia the designer  Maria Roch  will be in the parade with her feminine creations and the designers  Elena Estaun  and Gema Sach.  They will join the catwalk cast along with the regular brands and designers from which we highlight  Brain & Beast – whose daring and rebellious parade is always a must -. As is usual in summer editions, swimwear also takes centre stage on the catwalk with companies such as  Red Point, Como un Pez en el Agua or  Guillermina Baeza.

In total there are 37 designers and companies that will parade on the catwalk, with a clear modernist accent.

Special activities

To commemorate the 20 editions held over the decade,  080 Barcelona Fashion  has scheduled a special calendar among which is the presentation of the capsule collection by the Catalan company  Macson, which  is celebrating 75 years in the business.  It sees the debut as designer of the choreographer and dancer  Rafael Amargo,  the concert by Andrea Motis  which is part of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Nights and a special catwalk party entitled  Anniversary party by Zalando.  On the solidarity front the Catalan parade is also promoting a philanthropic action with the Casal dels Infants, by marketing a commemorative T – shirt designed from a figurine by the prestigious New York illustrator  Rubén Toledo.

Finally, the parallel activities include the holding of the 080 Barcelona Fashion Showroom, which will be transformed into a fair and will be held on 28 and 29 June;  it further includes the 080 Investor Day,  the International Investment Forum of the Fashion Industry  and the annual meeting of the textile-fashion sector,  Texmeeting by TEXFOR.

Access all the programming of 080 Barcelona Fashion here.

In connection with young designers and the industry ‘s future we want to highlight the new edition of  Barcelona Fashion Summit  as a meeting of professionals in the fashion business.  This time the conference will focus on the theme ‘Next Generation: the future of the fashion business’ with topics for analysis such as young business leaders, the new consumers, generational changes or new forms of management and business in the fashion industry.

Manuel Bolaño has a new plan. It is called B and symbolizes the return of the essence of the brand.  ’B’ for basic, ‘B’ for black and ‘B’ for Bolaño. A complementary collection that collects the mythical garments of the atelier with the intention of recovering the classics in patterns, fabrics and craftsman procedures, keeping that special Spanish design that makes it characteristic.  Very Bolaño. We talk to the designer of this most immediate plan …

What is your plan B?

My plan B is to create a depth of wardrobe for all women with more basic garments that complement the main collection.

What do you mean by basic?

When I say basic I mean that they have to have the same quality in design and fabrics as the main collection garments. It’s a second line, but it has the same value.

“Plan B is a depth of wardrobe for all women”

Was this at the request of your clientele ?  Until recently, your motto was ‘A Bolaño a year to complete your gear’ …

Yes. At times I had been told that they wanted some more classic garment, with cleaner lines, but that kept the essence of the brand.  We have chosen the most sold items in the history of Manuel Bolaño and we have always reinterpreted them in black.  At the moment there are 11 garments and the idea is that they are being expanded little by little with new designs.

The concept of timelessness in your brand …

Well, it’s not that they are completely timeless, but they will be garments which complement the main collection and can also be purchased on request.
Are they always going to be black garments?  It shocks me because colour is part of your identity …
Always.  The base will be black and maybe they will have some detail in another colour.  At Christmas, for example, I had thought about putting in a touch of gold, but the main colour will always be black.

Tell me more details about the collection …

The garments are made by hand and must be fixed at the seams.  The ‘Plan B’ breathes a little of the Haute Couture aesthetics of the 50s and 60s when patterns, volumes, moulage technique were the style… There are also handmade tricot garments.  The fabrics we use are jacquard cotton with lamé, satin, cashmere wool … It is made to order and can be bought through the web or in the atelier.  That is a guarantee that a garment will be made just for you.

“Plan B breathes a little of the aesthetics of haute couture”

And how do you operate things ?

The client sends us her measurements on the web and we work from that or else she can also come to see us physically in the new atelier.  I like the customer to come to the atelier to get to know the working-area and it is a much more rewarding shopping experience.

It is a way to encourage customer loyalty …

Yes, and it’s like going back to the past. When I was little I used to go shopping with my grandmother and the shops showed her this personal and exclusive attention . I want to recover this link with the client.

By the way, you have changed the location of the studio.  You are now very close to Gratacós, in the heart of Gràcia …

Yes, I am very happy with the change. In spite of the move we maintain the same philosophy, where the atelier resembles a home.  I would compare the other part part of our working-area more to a laboratory where my team and I work on the design of the garments. Then the idea of the atelier is that the client feels at home and also sees how we work.

“I want the client to feel at home”

What is your link with Gratacós?

I’ve known you since I started studying and I’ve been in Barcelona for 15 years.

Do you remember how you got to know us?

Well, it was by chance, shortly after coming to Barcelona.  I got lost in the city and looking for a shop I came across Gratacós’s shop window in Paseo de Gracia and thought, “Wow! What a fabric-shop !”  At first I did not dare to enter out of fear or embarrassment and I think it was during the second year in the city when I was looking for specific fabrics that I was recommended the shop.  It was then that I finally decided to go in and I went to look at the whole shop and fell instantly in love.

About Gratacós: “I went in the shop and fell instantly in love”

I did not know we were so impressive …

At first I had a lot of respect, in the sense that I did not know if the store was made for me, but then I met Gloria and the whole team and I totally changed my mind.  Now it’s like my family, I feel at home and I like that.

Is there any Gratacós fabric in the new collection?

Yes, most of the collection of ‘Plan B’ are from Gratacós.

What challenges do you face for this year?

For now with the online store, the new studio and the collection ‘Plan B’ I have enough.  Now for the moment I want to continue with these projects which certainly give me plenty to do ! He laughs…

The Gratacós questionnaire …

Your essential garment … A shirt

A fetish embroidered tulle fabric … A tulle fabric

A colour that never waivers … pink, but my favorite is the red

The designer you admire … Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela.

An infallible rule of style … Wear shoes with socks

Your favorite space in Barcelona… Piazza San Felip Neri

Advice for designers who start … You have to be consistent because our work is not child’s play

Your ‘leitmotif’ … Don’t be afraid

We continue to pop up with more imaginative stores sharing good news: our store next week will host the unconventional pop up Sastreria Moderna. This is an initiative inspired by the slow fashion movement that will take place from 18 to 20 May in our store, where customers can interact directly with the designer and squeeze the most out of this relationship. The journalist Laia Beltran, organizer of the event, relies on Gratacós to carry out this ephemeral event. “Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that. In addition, it is a well located working area, very attractive, with a shop-window that faces the street and an enthusiastic team. What more could you ask for?”.

“Gratacós always encourages initiatives by independent designers and we love that”

Sastreria Moderna advocates a sustainable, personalized and “low-simmering”fashion that is more rewarding, both for the maker and for the wearer. That is the value of the initiative where the clients can try out the clothing of the invited designer and order it on the spot. “Here the client does not try on a garment, pay for it and take it home inside a bag. Here she tries it on and if she likes it she orders it, with the option of making changes in colour and fabrics. That’s why we call it a non-conventional pop up, “says Laia Beltran. Thus, in a couple of weeks, the garment is made and delivered to the customer with the idea of promoting production on demand and avoiding stocks. In this third edition the possibilities of choosing fabric multiply, given that Gratacós will offer a wide range of possibilities to clients.

The designer EvaHumo as special guest

In the third edition, Sastreria Moderna EvaHumo  invited the designer to present in public ‘Jazz’, her new collection. It is an elegant and sensual creation inspired by the twenties, by a woman who dances and surrenders herself without thinking that everything can end at any time. Dresses, blouses and light skirts in powdered colours and with an exciting set of textures. The designer’s more radical side will also be revealed with a selection of unique garments intentionally made for the event where intense colours, prints and handmade finishes predominate. In the presentation of the collection, clients will be able to try on the garments and order them with the fabric suggested by the designer or with any other fabric from Gratacós where we will take the opportunity to advise on the most appropriate choice.

Other Companies Confirmed

Sastreria Moderna will again have the support of several design brands that will put on sale their latest collections. These complements and accessories companies share the same spirit of the initiative in that they go for good design and local production. Thus this edition will feature the minimalist jewelry of Sew a Song and the most exuberant creations of Becker & Co, inspired by the most varied flora and fauna. The leather accessories of Encuire by the designer Eva Estévez will also be present, as will duffle bags - the classic cylindrical bags with sailcloth handles by Equipaje BCN. Finally,in footwear Dorotea’s marvellous sandals are a must. They are made by hand in Menorca with quality leather.

“Here the client tries on tests a garment and, if she likes it, she orders it, with the option of making modifications in colour and fabrics”

Apart from design, Sastrería Moderna also offers the possibility of having a good time among friends. “It’s a good excuse to meet up with old friends, with clients or meet new people. We like to chat with them, invite them to a beer and explain the work of each designer, ” Laia declares.

Sastreria Moderna has the support of Gratacós, the architectural studio and showroom Materia Terricola and Moritz beers.

We ‘re waiting for you!

Martes 14 marzo 2017

Alone with…ImmaClé