As usual, in the Gratacós learning space we are always carrying out actions related to design and creativity. This time, it’s the turn of the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi with the commencement of the new edition of her traditional “Trend Notebook”. An agile and didactic presentation that we organize twice a year, where design students and professionals of the sector meet to find out about the main trends that will mark the Spring- Summer 2020 season. Always from a context that directly affects the fashion industry, taking into account the global socioeconomic situation. The spokesperson of this instructive talk for many years is Úrsula Uría, Nelly Rodi’s spokesperson in Spain, and we can hear about more concrete trends that affect consumption, lifestyles, colours, silhouettes … and will set the guidelines for next summer. Always from an orientation point of view.  It is already know that this is a prediction is not always exact, but it helps to set some guidelines.

In this last initiative, Úrsula Uría places us within an economic context of waiting, where the world prepares to face a new economic crisis much tougher than the previous one. That is the key to understanding the Jump macro trend that will influence the four trends that are presented: “We need to gain momentum because what is coming is even worse than what we have experienced. We accumulate the crises that already evident within the political context, social movements or economic fragility, “she says.

Úrsula Uría: “”We need to gain momentum to face the crises that await us”

From this unencouraging scenario, Nelly Rodi Predicts four trends that will affect the fashion industry and that fall within the following categories: Holiness, Invincible, Vision Y Spotlight.

1. HOLINESS

A minimalist trend that appeals to the classics, to the ancient era, to the splendor of classical Greece and the Roman Empire. A review of mythology and the first cultures to look for new creative solutions. “In the classic we will find the only way to advance as a society by taking the best they have done and innovate,” explains Uría. Holiness is also inspired by Morocco and Egypt, in the deserts of North Africa.

Visual references : The Yves Saint Laurent museum , the book ‘ Homo Deu s’ by Yuval Noah Harari, the influencer of Italian yoga Aria Crescendo, the austere hotel of Adrere Amellal in Siwa , meditation, introspection and spirituality .

Silhouettes: The Oversize garments Oversize, fluid and flowing, false minimalism, easy and comfortable looks, fluffy and soft materials, natural fabrics: linen, suede, leather, bamboo … prioritizes organic and handmade details. It is a premium line that does not include prints. The sophistication that seeks comfort above all. The artisan plays in another league.

Colours : The palette of browns, beiges and off whites are the star of this trend. The tones that emulate the minerals with their shades and outlines. It is an evolution of all nudes. The second colour line refers to the terracotta and blue colours of Marrakech.

Silhouettes : Straight lines, well-marked lines and versatile and functional garments predominate.

Colours : They refer to the industrial and revolve around grey and blue. Black does not appear and ink tones give depth. The colour block in a single tone will also be in.

Key concepts : Modern pilgrim, ancient civilizations, ethical minimalism, introspection and origins.

2. INVENCIBLE

A maximalist tendency that refers to cultural revolutions, social movements, activism and a greater awareness of global issues such as nature and the environment. “This trend connects to being a fighter in a creative, non-aggressive way, ” says Uría . A style that also connects with the passion for extreme sports like extreme risk, adrenaline and survival.

Visual references : The pop up of Adidas in Seoul, the athlete Emily Sukiennik, the multi functional garments, fashion tech, the Survival Living room in Paris, the concept of explorer, the mutational skin of the reptiles, Comme des Garçons …

Silhouettes : Technical fabrics, reversible garments and clothing inspired by sport that is conceived as a new way of relating. The patterns are mixed together, there are no limits.

Colours : The first palette is called alert and is much more explosive with tones linked to plastics such as vibrant blue and bottle green. The second palette refers to all tribal and is linked to camouflage tones: false blacks and the tones that emulate lizards and snakes’ skin.

Key concepts : Protection, extreme sports, outdoor and role of winner and defeater.

3. VISION

A minimalist trend that appeals to youth, sustainability and technology. There is talk of utopias: “We talk about the desire to change the world using happy therapy, ” says Ursula Uría. In this positive current there is no ugliness or weirdness because beauty is considered to be everywhere, as long as it is not offensive.

Visual references : The unconventional models, the sustainable fair in Berlin, the collaborative project The Student Hotel, the latest ASOS campaign, the latest Delpozo campaigns , the Agatha Ruiz de la Prada look …

Silhouettes : Comfortable garments with contrasting colours that surprise: yellow with greens, greens with oranges, oranges with pinks … Also arty prints that emulate the aerosols from a fresh and youthful point of view, the Bardot necklines that connect with the new feminine sensuality . The prints play around, for example, stripes with pictures … always with one colour as a main theme. Plenty of Geometric répétitions too.

Colour : The first palette refers to baby tones in their most milky and decaffeinated version. The second appeals to a more sorbet range of colours with gelatinous textures.

Key concepts : Happy utopia, eco conscience, soft technological, positive future, contemporary romanticism and be a resolver.

4. SPOTLIGHT

A maximalist tendency that appeals to glamour and excess with a retro air. It refers to outdoor parties on terraces and pools in venues such as Las Vegas or Los Angeles. “The sexy, eccentric and daring woman inspired by the 50s returns,” adds Uría.

Visual references: Palm Spring, the Coco Chanel pop up  in Malaysia with vending beauty machines, nightclubs, exclusive parties, bling bling, art-deco, Charlie’s Angels, the beauty of sexiness, denim, the shimmer of the pools both day and night.

Silhouettes : Dresses, dungarees, long tunics, puffed sleeves, pronounced necklines … the most sophisticated garments in fabrics that radiate light like sequins or lames. Accessories are very important. Floral prints are also in, but with dark backgrounds

Colour: The first palette focuses on gold colour and its more aged tones. Also in the range of browns reminiscent of tobacco and leather. The second colour range appeals to violets, very dark reds and mauves that add that sophisticated touch

Key concepts: Extravagant glamour , hedonistic glam , pop power, tropical, positive attitude for your body and new empowerment.

Successful convening of the new edition of ‘ Cuaderno de Tendencias’, a biannual educational initiative, which brings together in the Gratacós shop dozens of students from various design schools to learn about the main global trends that will mark the Autumn-Winter season2019 / 2020. A relaxed and instructive talk will be given by Ursula Uría, spokesperson in Spain for the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi, who will explain the colours and textures that will mark the patterns of next winter.

As general points of influence on the conception of the fashion collections of the AW19 / 20 season, Uría has highlighted a complex economic and social situation: “We are not talking about crisis, but about a break that affects many sectors and that entails radicalization.” The polarization of politics, the rise of migratory movements, social demands … are some of the phenomena that will continue to mark the fashion industry. “The collections that emerge will be more ground-breaking and alternative,” explains Nelly Rodi’s spokeswoman in Spain. Current names such as Palomo Spain and her feminization of men, the return of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada with her colourful essence or the singer Rosalía with her flamenco-inspired tour are some examples that, according to Uría, show this general tendency towards the alternative.

Úrsula Uría: “Fashion collections will be more ground-breaking and alternative”

From this scenario, Nelly Rodi draws four fashion trends that encompass the following categories: Master, Ride , Oddity Y Spirit .

1.MASTER

A minimalist trend that represents the return of tailoring and pattern-making from the point of view of rigour and perfectionism. Return of well-made garments, crafts, geometrical tracings and functionality.

Visual references : origami , geometry, mathematics, sculptures, straight lines, defined strokes, designer Issey Miyake , the last campaign of Dior man, Tilda Swinton for Gentle Monster or Arket’s featured colour therapy.

Silhouettes: Straight lines, well-marked lines and versatile, functional garments predominate.

Colours: A hark back to the industrial era, revolving around grey and blue. Black does not appear, whilst tinted shades give depth. Single shade colour block is also being worn.

Fabrics: Bright finishes, quilting and experimentation in technical fabrics.

Audience: Rational consumers who buy selective and expensive products, who know what they want and consume it consciously.

2. RIDE

A premium trend inspired by the world of racing (horses and cars) and speed. Appeals to the reinvention of the classics as already done by companies such as Burberry, Hermès or Loewe.

Visual references: the equestrian world, the concept of private club, sagas, Amazons, the prestige of the uniform and elegant authenticity of it girls (Carlota Casiraghi , Olivia Palermo, Marta Ortega) with families linked to the world of horses.

Silhouettes: Structured garments, geometry, biker jackets with reformulated silhouettes..

Colours: Brown shades and red Ferrari which add a touch of warmth.

Fabrics: A return of classic fabrics such as suede, leather, hair applications and plaid prints inspired by riders.

Audience: A consumer who knows the stories of the brands and gives value to family sagas. Consume products that have a history behind them, a well- marked savoir faire.and

3. ODDITY

A youthful tendency that is inspired by the poetic aspects of protest movements. The alternative is not aggressive, but its creativity is radical. It has a hippy quality.

Visual references : the cover of Vogue USA on the empowerment of women, social movements, communities, identity, grunge aesthetics, activism and collaboration, the concept of Princess Peter Pan, eco-activism, futurism and withered flowers.

Silhouettes: Overlays, experimentation of materials, layers, surprising openings … functional and very technological garments.

Colours: Grey latex, electric blue and sweet tones (pastel colours ).

Fabrics: Mohair, plastic, lúrex, experimentation with alternative fabrics.

Audience: A young public that seeks to make a statement via fashion. Fashion as a channel for the expression of a message.

As was expected, the new call of the prestigious research agency Nelly Rodi , to publicize the main international trends that will mark next summer was a success in capital letters. More than 70 people, most of them fashion and design students, filled the upper floor of the Gratacós space with their presence. All of them waited impatiently for the thesis and premises offered by the informative Úrsula Uria , in an instructive talk to disclose in an orientative way the colours and textures that will set the tone for the Spring- Summer 2019 season .

On this occasion, the head of Nelly Rodi in Spain unveiled four new trends within a social and global economic context that also influence her choice such as the revival of national values and patriotic folklore; young people’s need to enjoy through the consumption of experiences related to travel and not so much in the own ownership of products; or the rise of new musical icons that influence through their image with more identity power, to mention some examples.

Based on these general premises, four trends will influence fashion in the next summer season: Magnetic , Sassy , Life and Native 

1. MAGNETIC

A futuristic trend, with an androgynous and minimalist base, inspired by technological innovations and applications of them in the textile world.

Visual references : Artificial intelligence, virtual reality , Tokyo, science fiction, functional technology, holograms, the cosmos, Dries Van Noten or the kinetic designs of the British creative Es Devlin.

Silhouettes : Fluid and deconstructed silhouettes prevail, functional garments, large pockets in parkas and coats, fastenings with ropes and accessories on the zips.

Colours : Metallized such as gold and silver along with iridescent colours and blue denim. 

Fabrics : Fabrics that attract light. The pastel colours in neon version and iridescents in lamé. Also experimentation with technical fabrics out of the ordinary.

Public: A rational and active consumer, ultra connected to the latest technologies and a lover of aesthetic sports fashion in a chic key.

2. SASSY

An exuberant trend inspired by avant-garde movements such as Surrealism and Dadaism. An elegant and refined style that seeks to surprise and entertain through clothing and accessories.

Visual references : The works of Dalí and Miró, abstract art, Cristina Celestino for Fendi , the lipsticks for men by Tom Ford, Lladró, the interior designer Jaime Hayón , the lobsters, bumbags …

Silhouettes:  Fitted silhouettes with an 80s look and their characteristic volumes, review of the suit jacket and 60’s cut dresses. The accessories and the details have a cheeky point that plays with humour and irony.

Colours: The whole range of pastel colours. From the most decaffeinated to the highest tones in this line of dull.

Fabrics: The classic tailoring is renewed with new codes adapted to today.

Public: An individualistic consumer who is somewhat impulsive and in turn has a particular taste for fashion. He likes to be noticed with garments that attract attention, that transform concepts and turn more conventional codes.

3. LIFE

A minimalist trend that recovers a healthy lifestyle through moods and emotions. An evolution of the current “Horizon “ trend with differentiating tints.

References: Ecology, healthy lifestyle, veganism, noble materials such as wood, steel, botany, nature, works by Suzanne Anker, roots or designer Angela Luna, to name a few examples.

Silhouettes: Fluid patterns are worn and comfort is the main characteristic that is taken into account.

Colours: Green on green. White, vanilla and nude tones. The vegetal prints gain ground to the florals.

Fabrics: Natural fabrics , lightweight and handcrafted details.

Public: A purist consumer , lover of the slow life that treasures expensive clothes in the wardrobe, but more durable

4. NATIVE

A trend of folk spirit that the tribes have, the feeling of belonging and refers back to the origins. The boho -chic style in its wildest version.

References : Ethnic and cultural miscegenation, mysticism, roots, nomadic, desert landscapes, elements of nature, talismans, Xavier Noël’s artistic totems , trips to lost paradises, handicrafts, urban Aborigines …

Silhouettes : An intermingling of baggy patterns with tight-fitting garments in a style that combines the casual with the sexy. The Madras check pattern.

Colours: Earth tones, green camouflage, orange and blue combination, yellow tones, gradients … Tonalities found in the sky and the earth.

Fabrics : Rustic and handmade reminiscences. Crochet fabric and draped clothes.

Public: A more impulsive profile that fits in with an it girl or it boy. They look for singularity through an aesthetic that advocates the ancestral side.

There are calls that excite us because of the enormous expectations they generate and the success of participation that certainly endorse their popularity edition after edition.  One of them is the Notebook of Trends  by Nelly Rodi.  This is an initiative that we have been promoting since last year to make known the main trends that will be of influence in the next year.  It is a guiding compass of the colours, fabrics and prints that people will be talking about.  This informative talk for design students will be led as always by Úrsula Uria, head of the prestigious research agency on trends in Spain.

This edition unveiled the four trends that will influence the summer of 2018, taking into account some of the global social, economic and cultural trends that influence fashion consumption.  These factors are:

1. In times of crisis there is a resurgence of nationalist values.  In this sense local consumption is prioritized and values such as origins and roots are given importance.  This is especially evident in areas as diverse as music or cooking.

2. It is a time of rebellion.  A consequence of the first macro trend. Tough times cause canons to be broken and new leaders, models and inspirations sought.  In fashion there is a commitment to diversity of mannequins.

3. Consumers are rational.  They know what they want, when they want it and how they want it and they apply intelligence above emotion. Purchases are no longer driven by impulse but by real needs. For example: healthy food with eco ingredients.

4. Free time is the new luxury.  It is what is most appreciated in a society so busy with duties and obligations.  Anyone who has time to travel, switch off and isolate themself … cherishes a real treasure.

Thus, taking into account these premises, the next Spring-Summer 2018 season will influence four trends in fashion: Booster, Horizon, Puzzle and Neodalisque.

1. Booster

A colourful trend based on a mix of technical and sports and inspired by the countries of South -East Asia, especially South Korea.

References:  Pop music, smileys, digital language, geeky references, digital consumers, musical gadgets, futuristic inspiration from the 60s and 70s by Andrès Courreges and Paco Rabanne patterns.

Silhouettes: Priority given to collage, patchwork and patterning technique. The garments are very technical with ergonomic designs and volume is the name of the game.

Prints:  Metallized dyes and surreal motifs.

Colours:  Most are racy – pop – optimist shades – and the range of pastels is like mints.  Explosive combinations like green with pink or violet with orange are all the rage.

Fabrics:  Wearing of patent leather and fabrics with sparkles.

2. HORIZON

A minimalist trend based on yoga, meditation and slow lifestyle.  Inspiration is to be found on surprise beaches facing the ocean.

References:  A cooler interpretation of the sailor style and nautical universe, Loewe, Yohji Yamamoto, the Nordic countries, the beaches of Galicia, stones, handicrafts, fossils, ropes and hues of the sea on a cloudy day.

Silhouettes:  Deconstructed, minimal air patterns, loose and light clothing.

Colours:  Cold palette as blues, muted greens, grays and off – white.

Prints: Scarcely any prints. Prioritizing smooth garments.

Fabrics: Artisanal and light fabrics. Rough details.

3. PUZZLE

A circus-influenced trend based on show and excess. More is more.

References:  theatre, performing arts, surrealism, mix & match, the locker room of Circ du Soleil, the world of majorettes and most glamorous cowboy style.  The trendsetters are Gucci, Prada and Roberto Cavalli.

Silhouettes:  Mix of volumes, shoulders are the new stars, ruffles and styles taken to the extreme.

Colours:  Chromatic chaos.  Bright tonalities, fluorescent and contrasted with each other.  Examples: orange with turquoise, pink with yellow…

Prints:  stripes, zig-zag … The graphic nmotifs abound.

Fabrics:  patent leathers

4. NEODALISQUE

An oriental trend with ethnic roots based on the silk route. A step beyond the boho-chic style.

References:  Persian culture, oriental minimalism, ceramics, details on cintería, Etro prints, trimmings, fruit elements, mosaics, antique vases, carpets and exoticism of Sri Lanka or India.

Silhouettes: very long garments in skirts, dresses and coats, kafkans, kimonos, harem pants.

Colours:  Old gold

Prints:  Prints of exotic flowers and cashmere.

Fabrics: Artisanal