Xevi Fernández made his personal mark in the last edition of the Samsung Ego catwalk show at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Madrid. Something which is very difficult given the creative proposals that are exhibited in each show. The Empordà designer, who trained in Barcelona, chose once again a futuristic theme as his focus point in a masculine and feminine collection that was both contemporary and 100% wearable.
Under the name of “Delay”, the Spring-Summer 2017 collection is inspired in the most common errors of this digital age –glitches, gliasing, bugs – that upon reading form erroneous figures or images due to files wrongly coded or damaged. Xevi Fernández bases himself on this paradox and reflects these errors in textures, fabrics and prints, depriving them of their negative connotations and showing their constructive and generating potential.
It is precisely in this collection that there has been exceptional work gone into the textures and different materials that become distorted using different techniques. Latex is presented pleated, the leather is altered using moulds that deform it, neoprene is printed on and the tulle acquires more volume by using various layers. The designer has used Gratacós fabrics to elaborate some of the looks exhibited on the Madrid catwalk show for original young talents.
In Delay, the colours are inspired also in the glicht, even as a print, pastel tones such as yellow, pink and pale blue mix together with lilac and black. Shapes range from narrow garments that completely show off the figure to oversize clothes such as kimonos or parkas, aswell as straight cut A-Line style garments.
As a final touch to the show, the all-round burlesque artist Vinila von Bismark was in charge of opening and closing the show with two of the most representative looks of the collection.
This is the second edition of the Samsung Ego show that Xevi Fernández has participated in following his debut with “The Last Future”. A promising creator that will go far. In Gratacós we will keep a close eye on him.
José María García has spent the last 4 years in charge of his female fashion brand, designing dresses and suits for special occasions in his workshop in Barcelona. Ze Garcia is synonymous of affordable haute couture for the modern, sensual and elegant woman. Each and every garment is made to measure, taking into account the style, personality and silhouette of the customer. Ze Garcia must have something special considering all the fashion instagrammers follow him. Including Dulceida who has confided her trust in the young Catalan designer and given him the task of designing her wedding dress. An online phenomenon that has caused a lot of sensation. Beyond this passing boom, Jose María García presses forward with his work at a steady pace and with very clear ideas…
Did you expect to be a dying sensation with the wedding designs for Dulceida? The social networks are still raving on about it….
These past few days have been crazy and we did not expect this media coverage. The number of my followers has increased drastically. I’d already worked with Dulceida in the past with other designs for different events she had attended, but it is true that the wedding has been a complete boom.
The big wedding brands such as Pronovias or Rosa Clará were chasing after the famous dress…
I know, I know. However, Aida and I are friends and she has always trusted me; both as a designer and as a friend. I have been working with her for many years and I know her tastes and her measurements and I know I won’t let her down. It was a great pleasure for me to be given the the responsability of designing her two wedding dresses and also her girlfriend Albas´. This has allowed me to do three styles: one princess style dress with 40 metres of tulle, another more bohemian one like what is in fashion now and the third a tailored suit with a V-neck body which is what Im most used to doing.
«Dulceida has given me the responsability of designing her wedding dresses»
This has allowed you to experiment with a variety of styles….
Exactly! For me, the most important part of this experience has been that I have not been pigeon-holed into one concrete style, but I’ve been able to adapt the style to each girl.
With so many admirers, have the complements or criticisms affected you?
Its been fine, because my main worry was if the dresses were made up correctly at a technical level and also the brides’ expectations. Obviously everyone has different tastes so there will be people who like them alot and others who do not.
The fabric for the wedding dresses was bought from Gratacós, but its true that you often confide in us…
I’ve confided in you for a long time now. The quality of fabrics in your shop is the best. It is true that I vary where I buy my fabrics from, but you have always been a reference for me. When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós.
«When you need a “top” fabric, you can find it in Gratacós»
How did you start out in the design world? You mentioned that you were born with it in your blood….
I always wanted to be a designer and I was sure of this ever since I was little. I started sewing classes at 12 and I later realized I needed to learn the trade so I began studing at the Technical Art Fashion School in the Ramon LLul University in Barcelona. When I finished my studies, I began working for Emporio Armani in charge of visual image – shop window displays and styles. After working with several brands, I decided to begin my own.
How do you differentiate yourself from your competition?
The designers approach, personal taste and the things you bet on are important. Every brand has its creators signature and in ZE García its me myself.
What do you offer your customer?
I always attend to them. In fact, I always do this; I assist more than I design. Nowadays it is more important to know how to sell than what to sell.
«Its more important to assist than design»
How do you work in Ze García?
Always upon request. The customer comes to our showroom in C/Tuset and there they can take a look at our best selling garments that are on show. These are generally single garments rather than made up dresses, because the type of customer who comes to us has many events, so what we aim to do as a brand is that from one dress we can do various options.
What type of customers do you have?
A typical customer is a young attractive girl from 20 to 35 years old. Im really lucky!- he says smiling.
Which other celebrities have worn your designs?
The majority of fashion instagrammers such as Belén Hostalet or Inés Arroyo and actresses such as
Thaïs Blume who came here to Gratacós. Im quite selective when it comes to actresses and I always decide who I want to wear my designs.
What challenges lay ahead for the upcoming years?
At the moment, stay as I am at a sure and steady pace. My brand has been running for 4 years (he is now 28 years old) and I want to mature as a designer with it. I enjoy everything a lot more if things just happen without planning.
Questionnaire Gratacós
An essential garment… For a girl, a Vneck
A fetish fabric… Something that is shiny and conjures up the night
A colour you could not live without.. Black and red
A designer you admire… Tom Ford. I find him good in design and also at selling
An infallible style rule… A masculine-feminine mix
Your preferred space in Barcelona… I know so many different places that right now I cannot answer
A piece of advice for those starting out… Focus on what you want to do
Your leitmotif… Slowly but surely
Elisabet Vallecillo and Javier Blanco are the creators of Comillo de Morsa, one of the most sought after independent labels inside “made in BCN” design. The brand, born in 2010, marked a turning point at the fashion show EGO Cibeles Madrid. It led them to exhibit their creations at the Paris show “Who’s Next” aswell as other significant achievements. This marks the start of a slow but steady international expansion as now they are concentrating on consolidating their work within Spain. Colmillo de Morsa has its own shop in the unique neighbourhood of Gracia, but is gaining presence in other designer spaces. It must be for a reason…
Your brand name is surprising. How did you come up with it?
Elisabet- Our name is a reflection of the concept of beauty. The tusk is a reference to ivory, a precious and valuable material. If it comes from the walrus it adds a more grotesque tone. We like the symbiosis of ideas because it is a way of expressing that beauty comes in many ways and can be found in the most unlikely of places. It all depends on who is looking at it and what they can find.
How has Colmillo de Morsa changed since your first catwalk show in Madrid? How have you evolved?
Javier- The essence is still there. We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles. Obviously there has been changes in structure because we have expanded and we adapt to the customer, but our way of thinking and approach to the brand is the same.
“We have not changed our philosophy and we stand firm on our principles”
What is this essence you refer to?
Elisabet- In each collection we look for timeless models, checking patterns and key garments with classic cuts. In terms of fabrics, we like to work with silk, cotton, cashmere…We also have a second line made up of basic garments with a more casual touch for day to day wear. Everyone looks for comfort and a carefree style.
So, the creativity is present but you listen to the customer’s needs….
Javier- Exactly, creativity and design remain intact. We have simply expanded our criteria and offer a more diversified product but always within the same parametres.
Really, and what are those?
Javier- Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme. The clothes are made up responsibly here in the local workshop using environmentally-friendly materials. The customers confide in us because they now we offer design with quality.
“Our fashion is quite wearable without being extreme”
That is the importance of finding your own personality within a saturated market…
Javier- Exactly. In Colmillo de Morsa we do not get carried away by trends. It is something we are very clear about and we like to do our own thing.
Elisabet- As we don’t compete with the fast fashion it seems pointless to be lagging behind market trends. What we strive to do is to make our product following our design and quality rules.
What role does Gratacós play in the creative process?
Elisabet- Firstly, it gives us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material that will achieve amazing results. Also, the huge variety of products they offer. In Gratacós we can buy all types of silks, georgette, organza…also the jacquards when we are looking for a something special for the most detailed garments in the collection.
“Gratacós give us peace of mind knowing that we are working with top quality material”
Local brand with international expansion. Where are you heading?
Elisabet- Now we are in a transitional phase. It is true that a few years ago, we had international presence at fairs where we publicized our product, gained new customers and we sold in Singapure, Dubia, United States….The problem in the end was that by wanting to do so much, it limited our day to day because bear in mind we were a small team and we take of practically everything. Now we have an agent who looks after the international sales but we are concentrating more on the national market.
What are your goals for 2017?
Javier- Now Julia- Elisabet’s daughter-is with us, we want to concentrate more than ever on our shop. Even so, we are always on the lookout for new spaces to expand our workshop and we make new contacts to supply clothes to designer shops. We do not rule out the possibility of opening a new shop, but we will see.
Would you like Julia to be a designer?
Elisabet- Not at the moment – she laughs – she can decide herself when she is older…
The Gratacós questionnaire…
Your essential garment … A printed shirt
A fetish fabric… Any type of silk
A colour you would never forgo… Black
The designer you admirer… Sarah Burton (Javier) and Jil Sander (Elisabet)
An infallible style rule… Always have at hand a good coat or an oversized shirt
Your favourite space in Barcelona… The Korean barbeque Yalujiang situated in Roger de Flor
A piece of advice for designers starting up… They should be clear on the what, where and for whom before launching
Your “leitmotif” … Do what you like
