Photos: Pirelli / FotoNostrum Barcelona
Feminine beauty has undergone a historical change in its conception and representation over time, and especially in the last half century. If we talk about beauty portrayed, the famous Pirelli calendar has become a tangible reflection of this transformation, being an everyday object that has played an important role in the representation of women in the world of fashion and photography.
Known for its iconic and sensual images that decorated mechanical workshops, garages and truck cabins in its early days, the Pirelli calendar has evolved over time to reflect social and cultural changes in the perception of femininity and the empowerment of women. . Now, the FotoNostrum gallery in Barcelona exposes this evolution by presenting the largest retrospective ever held of the iconic almanac of the renowned tyre company.
Beauty narrated by the best photographers
Under the title of ‘ L’Eterna Bellezza ‘, the exhibition exhibits more than 450 snapshots captured by 41 masters of fashion photography, who have contributed to making the Pirelli Calendar a legend in the world of photographic art. Masters like Peter Lindbergh, Annie Leibovitz, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts , Paolo Roversi , Mario Testino , Steve McCurry, Bruce Weber, Patrick Demarchelier and Richard Avedon , among others, have portrayed over the years the sensuality of women, including models such as Gisele Bündchen , Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Gigi Hadid and Kate Moss; actresses like Monica Bellucci, Sofia Loren, Laetitia Casta, Jessica Chastain , Penélope Cruz, Uma Thurman , Kate Winslet , and Robin Wright, and singers like Cher, Rosalía, and Patti Smith.
Beyond the sensuality that becomes evident in some cases through the nakedness of the body, what draws attention in the exhibition is the change in gaze. In this sense, ‘ L’Eterna Bellezza ‘, protected by Amadeo M. Turello , Italian curator and preserver of the Pirelli Collection since 2015, has not wanted to ignore all the stages of the Pirelli calendar, from its beginnings in 1964 to 2022, through images that show everything from nudes where the The models’ bodies are presented explicitly as an advertising claim, as well as other more evocative images with messages of vindication of feminine power, which go beyond mere eroticism.
The images shown not only reveal the poetics of individual authors on the female body, they also constitute a reflection of society, aesthetics and the arts in the last 60 years. Thus, the exhibition reflects how the photographic language has evolved over time, highlighting other aspects such as fashion and pop culture of each era.
From object to subject
The Pirelli calendar was first launched in 1964 and has become a symbol of beauty, style and elegance. A leading photographer on the London scene, Robert Freeman, who was a personal friend of The Beatles, was commissioned to create a “beautiful calendar” and had complete creative freedom to do so. This talented photographer selected representative models of the time and took them to the beaches of Mallorca for a cheerful and informal shoot that captured the essence of that moment marked by an emerging counterculture and the sexual revolution.
At that time, calendars with images of women already existed and were used as a marketing tool in the automotive industry. Pirelli wanted to give his celebrated almanac a more sophisticated image and, in his quest for good taste, partnered early on with leading photographers of each era to provide their artistic vision of female beauty. The first calendars caused a sensation, but despite the change, they still reflected old stereotypes: women in pin-up poses displayed their bodies as objects of desire.
As time progressed, Pirelli changed its approach and adapted to the new changes, celebrating values such as diversity, talent, individualism and authenticity to portray a beauty that goes beyond the purely aesthetic and focuses on the personality and the way of being of the woman. In the 21st century, the Pirelli calendar has challenged traditional beauty canons and has captured the essence of successful women in various fields, such as music, cinema, fashion, sports and activism, promoting a more inclusive and empowered vision. of women in society.
The woman also as creator
Women are the absolute protagonists in the history of the Pirelli calendar, but they have not always been in the spotlight. The tyre brand has highlighted the role of women as creators and protagonists in the world of fashion and photography, providing a platform for female photographers to express their artistic vision and talent. This has been demonstrated by photographers such as Sarah Moon, Joyce Tenneson and Annie Leibovitz, who has worked twice for Pirelli.
The latest signing for the creation of the famous calendar has been Emma Summerton , who has been inspired by the classic figure of the muse to vindicate the role of women as creators. For the Australian photographer, the conception of beauty transcends faces and bodies, and has given the models participating in the calendar, such as Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne or Ashley Graham, an artistic role linked to the power they represent in life real. Thus, in a dreamlike setting with a great charge of fantasy and ornamental precision, the ” Summerton muses ” are presented as authentic warriors, queens, activists or writers in the 2023 edition of the Pirelli calendar.
Precisely, some of these fresh new images can also be seen in the retrospective of the Pirelli calendar, which will be open to the public until the 30th July at the FotoNostrum gallery in Barcelona.
