You know that it is spring when you begin to see colour in the form of floral prints in all their versions either in the street or on the catwalk. Embroidery, appliqués, petals in 3D … flowers decorate each of the fabrics with their natural beauty, becoming an imperishable trend that is renewed each season with surprising results.
In May, the month of flowers, we want to familiarise people with the outstanding look of this beautiful dress by Santos Costura made with one of our fabrics. It is a long dress with bold transparencies made from tulle embroidered with different flowers meticulously trimmed in pink, yellow, blue and green tones strategically placed in the dress and which together form a lush floral garden.
This feminine model by Santos López is part of the Atelier Couture 2018 collection and is conceived of as a party dress which gracefully accompanies the bridal gowns of this Catalan designer, who perfectly represents the values of exclusivity, personalized service and craftsmanship with entirely local production. This philosophy and know-how that we appreciate also proves seductive for his clients, among them renowned Spanish film actresses who have no hesitation in choosing a model by Santos Costura to step on the red carpet. For example, foremost among the most recent is the actress Nerea Barros, who wore the “spring dress in embroidered tulle” at the 2017 Malaga Festival .
This tulle embroidered with flowers and sequin motifs that so once seduced Santos López is still available in our store awaiting new forms of embellishment. Below we list some details for you, although it would be preferable for you to actually come and see it, touch and feel the fabric and appreciate it as much as we do – or indeed as Santos Costura does.
Finally, if you want to read the interview we did last year with the designer, click here.
He has been in the sector for more than two decades, but he maintains the same passion as the day he begun. Santos López is the designer for Santocostura. Fom his workshop in Barcelona, he directs an artisan bridal brand with made to measure garments using quality fabrics and unique embroidery. His collections know no trends or fads and maintain a sophisticated timelessness with perfectly cut silhouettes. The Santoscostura dresses have appeared in a number of magazines and have been centre of attention on the red carpet. Nevertheless Santos López knows that being in the spotlight is one thing, but to get to the top, one must work very hard.
You define yourself as an artisan, rather than a designer.…
The value of our brand comes down to making artisan dresses with unique details that can only be done by working with one garment at a time. I like to preserve the traditional way of working with my hands, because handicraft is something that is coming to an end in Alta Costura.
Why?
At University, they forget to teach the most essential part of a business and I am not referring to the designer, who I do not deny is the soul, but they do not show the work of those who sew. They do not show the students how to sew and this is a skill that is disappearing. There is a general belief that it is a devalued job that does not require training, but this is not the case and the truth is we are losing workforce. When the seamstresses no longer exist, Alta Costura will disappear because this art that can not be exported to China nor India.
Despite this, we are going back to our traditional ways, or at least we are more conscientious …
Here is the inconsistency. Consumers value handicraft and customisation, but we are missing artisans to carry out this type of work.
«Consumers value handicraft but we are missing artisans»
Did you inherit your passion for sewing?
Yes, but not in a professional way. I studied Fine Arts because there were no specific university degrees for fashion. I later did various pattern and garment making courses and I learnt by myself. I never doubted this was meant for me.
Do you have any childhood memories?
I remember when my grandmother and I sewed laces together.
What was the first thing you sewed?
A bridal dress for one of my sisters dolls. I think it was a Nancy doll.
What did you learn in your first job?
That you need to work hard. The catwalks and the attention from the media are secondary,. You concentrate on designing and producing. It takes a lot of hours and a lot of effort.
What appealed to you about the bridal sector?
When I was 12, I read a book on the history of fashion and I recall being fascinated by it, especially two pages that talked about brides. When I finally decided to launch the Brand, I wanted to do something very artisinal. In the bridal sector there is always a lot more margin for handicraft and on top of that you are offering a daydream.
«In bridal, aswell as offering handicraft, you are offering a daydream»
What creative process do you follow in Santos Costura?
We work in two different ways. Firstly, we decide on a leitmotif and as from there we work on the collection with previously used fabrics that we join together with other embroidery that we make ourselves. The structured way would be think of the idea, draw the design, the patterns and prototypes. Secondly, we talk to the customer and gather up her ideas and tastes and we modify the garment in the collection until it meets her expectations.
What is the Santos Costura bride looking for?
They are looking for exclusivity and something that reflects their personality. It is true that our collection has a specific style to it but we adapt to what the customer wants so that that the bride does not feel like she is wearing fancy dress. The dress has to be in line with her style.
…And more so in the bridal sector where more than dresses, it is emotions that are sold.
Exactly! That is what we sell. Our work process with the customer is always very close and even though it is my team that starts dealing with the customer, I am always present at some time. I like to meet the brides and attend to them personally. I also like to be there in the dress fitting because it is important that they feel comfortable and I check that nothing has been missed.
What are the trends for 2017?
In the last few years we have gone from vintage to boho-chic gypsy style. This has completely changed now. At least with the brides I deal with. Now we find ourselves with a much more sophisticated bride, that does not want such a big dress, that likes transparencies to insinuate but now to show, with much more elaborated details like gemstones on the dress. These brides want a long sleeved dress, a closed neck and a large opening at the back. There is also a tendency to go back to the basics with a closed plain crepe dress. In general, there is retraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.
«In general, there is restraint in manners and a sophistication in the small details.»
What are you goals for next year?
The brand is growing alot and I am thinking of things that I did not contemplate when I launched the company. People ask me for dresses from all over the world and my goal is to maintain demand without missing the little details. It is true that in exterior sales points we cannot offer customisation of the dress. We are currently thinking of designing a small collection so that brides that live abroad can have a bit of scope to modify the dress.
The Gratacós questionnaire…
An essential garment…. Some stilettos
A fetiche fabric… Lace
A colour you could not live without… Black
A designer you admire… The maestro Balenciaga and Josep Font de Delpozo
An infallible style rule… Dont look like you’re wearing fancy dress, be true to yourself
Your favourite place in Barcelona… The port
A piece of advise for designers starting out… Be prepared to work hard and never lose your passion
Your vital slogan… Above all honesty
