Aya Jones by Txema Yeste for Harper’s Bazaar US. September 2019
We start the new year by immersing ourselves in the coldest month of the calendar, when winter displays all its splendor. On this inspiring journey, we explore the dazzling glacial landscapes: the snowy roofs of our planet, the vast inhospitable expanses covered in a blanket of snow and ice, and the overwhelming poles, where sky and earth are barely distinguishable, and the spectrum of whites take over a homogeneous colour palette, where each small chromatic nuance is widely perceptible.
This frozen nature, with a rugged and wild character, where life struggles to make its way, is also loaded with beauty. In addition, it has recently gained notoriety thanks to film hits such as ‘The Snow Society’ by JA Bayona, which leads the Goya nominations, and series such as ‘Fargo’, which have once again brought Minnesota’s impressive landscapes to the fore. and North Dakota, making them perfect settings for criminal plots in each season.
Beyond a seasonal trend
Fashion has fallen in love with the appeal of icy universes, incorporating the influence of alpine clothing inspired by high mountain sports into its repertoire. This trend has been increasing in recent years, manifesting itself through après-ski collections that offer clothing and accessories both on and off the slopes. Initially promoted by the most prestigious brands in the sector, the strategy was later adopted by large fashion distributors, including Zara, which has launched its own ski collection.
Frozen landscapes have also served as a muse for numerous designers who find in these unknown, distant and mysterious environments, fresh sources of inspiration to structure their winter collections. A notable example is Zuhair Murad ‘s proposal in 2015, which transported the brand’s clients between snowy mountains, steep rocks and still unexplored corners. Murad, with his innate talent, managed to balance dreamy fabrics, inspired by the textures of snow, used in all his designs, and patterns with volumes that marked the waist. In 2021, Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent presented his spring-summer collection in the frigid landscape of an Icelandic glacier. The models paraded among black volcanic rocks, mysterious vapors and gray waters with outfits that challenged the bourgeois codes of Saint Laurent.
More recently, Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, surprised the public at the presentation of his autumn-winter 2022/2023 collection by transporting them to a freezing snowstorm, surrounded by circular glass walls. The models, with languid steps and clothing reduced to improvised protection, paraded taciturnly in a frozen landscape marked by desolation. In this case, this icy setting served as Balenciaga’s artistic director to denounce the Ukrainian conflict.
Gratacós is also inspired by the icy serenity of the glaciers
Gratacós delves into the dazzling aesthetic of glaciers to explore icy beauty through captivating fabrics that capture the serenity and elegance of icy landscapes. We let ourselves be inspired by pieces that evoke the purity of ice and virgin snow, as well as by those that dazzle with sequins or subtle sparkles and iridescence. Silk, the undisputed protagonist, unfolds with an ethereal fall reminiscent of the slowness with which ice moves.
Glacier fashion embraces textures that tell stories of intense cold. How? Through layers and folds that suggest superimposed blocks of ice, while the relief details provide a three-dimensional dimension, recreating the complexity of glaciers. Embroidered with silver threads and translucent crystals imitate the shine of sunlight on snow, adding a touch of sophistication to each fabric. Other fabrics embroidered with tulle and rhinestones could emulate layers of frozen snow. As for the relief, we imagine pleated or other fabrics with soft undulations that imitate the topography of glaciers, providing organic movement to the garments.
The colour palette of glacier fashion is inspired by the soft, cold tones of glaciers. Pure white and ice blue dominate the spectrum, creating a feeling of calm and freshness. We added touches of silver and pearl gray that represent the shimmer of light on the icy surface, while deep turquoise pays homage to the hues found in ice cracks. These colours, masterfully combined, reflect the serenity and majesty of glacial landscapes.
Find among the seasonal items in our online store, that icy inspiration we talked about so appropriate for the winter season.
