Little by little, it seems that we return to a certain normality. And an indicator of this is our physical participation in Première Vision Paris. This fair that takes place twice a year is one of the most specialized and influential in the world for manufacturers of fabrics. Exhibitors present all the new collections coming one year ahead. This year, Gratacós is present again to kick off one of our most special proposals: Autumn- Winter 2022/2023. We say that it is “special” because the pandemic is representing a year of great challenges for the company to maintain creativity, production and sales , without overlooking innovation and sustainability that characterizes our business.
Broadly speaking, the new collection is a solid and choral proposal, which shows our desire to work and continue advancing through the generation of ideas, the creation of creative products and the investigation of new trends. A proposal based on the strength of colour, print and designs with great visual presence. We play with contrasting tones, unique prints and add an extra touch of fantasy because we believe that it is more necessary than ever. To do this, we mix flowers of different shapes and styles with geometric motifs , handicrafts, surprising textures, simplified neo Pucci motifs and neo William Morris with spacious backgrounds. All this to create a surprising game of harmonies, colour, light and tone that we believe will leave no-one indifferent.
The hug as the backbone
“We feel like going out and showing our joy, energy and positivity,” assures Rosa Pujol, creative director of Gratacós. Under this first premise, the Fall- Winter 22/23 collection has been structured, even more than usual on quality, fantasy and luxury. Show to surprise others and to surprise ourselves, is a maximum requirement now in capital letters.
And in this desire to show the fanciful side of fashion, the mother concept that underpins the entire proposal for next winter intervenes: the hug. The symbol of the union of affection and of brotherhood among people, most evident in unstable times like we are experiencing. To hug is to embrace with arms, reach out, understand, restrain, and even include. The creeper plants also hug the logs and facades of houses. And we liked that concept that unites and creates a feeling of sympathy. Aesthetic and visual. In fact, it is a collection designed to embrace multiple markets and different occasions through versatile and surprising items.
“We feel like going out and showing our joy, energy and positivity”.
Rosa Pujol,Gratacós creative director
Embrace materials
The Autumn- Winter 2022/2023 collection embraces craftsmanship. The thick yarns, the obvious braiding and the hand-made finishes. It is also a season where texture communicates by itself through complex folds, 3D effects, opaque transparencies that hint without showing, and precious embossing that surprise by their lines and shapes.
This season, the creative team also aims to stimulate new sensibilities by bringing together two fabrics that a priori are not compatible with each other to create daring aesthetics in the same outfit. It is about daring through complementary items that together create compatible chromatic harmonies. Another characteristic of the season is the commitment to the brightness that the night jump gives to establish itself during the day through surprising fabrics that seek a subtle and fantasy point of light that is 100% wearable. Simple, but sophisticated.
Embrace colour
Colour, more than matter, is light and is developed conscientiously this season to achieve very attractive results. A luminosity that makes us look better on the street. The collection works from the primary tones, through graphic prints , to the palette of metallics such as gold (solar energy) and silver (lunar energy) , mixed together.
As usual, in Première Vision Paris, three colour ranges will be presented. The first corresponds to a luminous band governed especially by radiant yellows and warm browns. The second card is the middle card with vibrant tones that go from oranges to blues and greens, to finish with fuchsias. Finally, the last letter corresponds to the neutrals and the duller tones, considered more masculine. A very interesting range that offers a great possibility of combinations as it is versatile and timeless.
Embrace nature
The Autumn- Winter 2022-2023 collection tries to strengthen the ties between man and closest nature through fabrics that refer to the beauty of plants. Garden inspiration returns through fabrics with plant motifs and country landscapes. As the writer and gardener, Jamaica Kincaid would say : “Gardens are spaces to connect us”. From Gratacós , the natural is also revalued with a commitment to the origin of the products and the raw material.
Finally, flowers also take over the collection in a particularly flowery winter. The flower is the protagonist of many of the fabrics with a variety of shapes, colors, sizes and arrangements.
Embrace geometry
Geometric motifs are very present in this coming season with fabrics that give a twist to the classics to attract the attention of the new generation of consumers: checks, polka dots, houndstooth or diamonds that are creatively combined to give new unexpected geometries.
In parallel, surprising combinations also arrive to generate all kinds of fantasies. The most extreme: combining two fabrics with graphic motifs that can be combined in the same outfit. Finally, although it is not an animal print season, in the next winter collection a fanciful item appears timidly such as a giraffe design Jacquard.
It was to be expected! Within its cyclical nature, fashion evokes fantasy after having spent almost two years stuck in comfort and austerity, two values influenced by the global pandemic. Remember that fashion is always a reflection of society. Thus, the reign of tracksuits, sweatshirts, pyjamas and slippers (whether they are at home or not), seems to be coming to an end with new inspirations that are postulated totally antagonistic: More luxury, more ornamentation and of course, more shine in festive garments and collections that cry out to escape from reality.
Of the three maxims, we want to focus on shiny fabrics as one of the trends that is going strong this Fall- Winter 21/22 season that we will premiere in September. Beyond the sequins that have had huge success as from now on and arrive in their most ostentatious version ( sequins on sequins in pants, jackets and voluminous dresses ), we want to talk about satin fabrics, one of the great bets of the new collections that we have seen in garments, shoes and bags and whose subtlety and sumptuousness continues to inspire us when it comes to making our fabrics.
It is curious how satin is one of the few fabrics that knows no limits in the wardrobe: it serves us both for winter and summer, or between seasons. Beyond its timelessness, its versatility also stands out because it admits infinite possibilities, making it an indispensable fabric in anyone’s wardrobe. Satin has a nice drape thanks to its fluidity and soft sheen. It is a silky fabric capable of transforming a style and allowing it to navigate between formal and casual. On the catwalk, we have seen it in a variety of garments and accessories for a long time, especially in slip dresses (inspired by lingerie nightgowns), romantic tops and blouses, light and flowing skirts, and even handbags.
A brief history of satin
Satin originated in China more than 2,000 years ago and come from silk. In fact, its name derives from Zaitun, a Chinese port famous for exporting satin. Although it was popular and highly desired in Greco-Roman culture, the consumption of silk satin spread in Europe in the Middle Ages towards the 12th and 13th centuries. Italy was the main exporting and consumer port. Satin captivated for its richness, fluidity and splendor, it was cheaper than silk, and was one of the fabrics most used in clothing for the privileged classes. It was also used in textiles to decorate grand castles and palaces. Satin was not popularized en masse, until the 19th century, after the Industrial Revolution and advances in the production and marketing process. This fabric also spread to other areas such as underwear. Then, satin became an affordable and versatile fabric, that could emulate the softness, richness and elegance of silk.
During the 20th century, satin conquered the sexiest and most chic clothing of the old Hollywood actresses. It was seen through lingerie dresses that were a scandal in their time for their daring. Some examples: the actress and sex symbol, Mae West wore in 1937 a satin dress adorned with flowers on the shoulder that marked her curves or could not go unnoticed. Also iconic was the tight white dress that sculpted Marilyn Monroe’s silhouette in ‘Gentlemen Prefer Blondes’ (1954) or the strapless outfit with lace motifs worn by Elizabeth Taylor in the movie ‘ Butterfield 8’ .
Decades later, the development of synthetic fabrics made satin even more affordable, bringing it into mainstream fashion. Since then, satin has transcended beyond a seasonal trend and has become a regular and staple fabric in everyday wardrobe.
Satin is not always silk
Although it may seem like it, satin is not always silk. It is actually a type of weft and not a fibre. In satin fabric, at least four weft threads are woven over one warp thread. Traditionally, satin has a shiny side and a duller side and can be made from different fibers, such as nylon, rayon, polyester, and even used silk. So it can be natural or artificial. In any case, it is a fabric that is characterized by its shine and softness. This makes it a star fabric for multiple applications, from fashion outfits to home décor.
Discover the new silk satins in our Gratacós space or in the online store. Click here 
Hazelnut, beige, tan, brown, makeup, nude … Neutral colours are in fashion this summer 2017. In fact, regardless of the trend this year, the cream tones are classic and modern at the same time. Timeless colors that soften the face and skin, and do not necessarily have to fall in the monotony if you know how to combine with small details in other pigmentations to make an evocative contrast.
This season neutral tones can be seen on the catwalk shows of the luxury brands with a clear tendency to single – colour blocks with some minor variations in tone. What has changed are those embossed fabrics, the focus on pleated loose clothing and volumes around the shoulder area and attenuated at the bottom. For example, DelPozo exhibits a skirt and jacket outfit in butter colour with wide sleeves; Bottega Veneta goes for fluid dresses insinuating the body without marking it and finally, Chloé gives prominence to floral embossed fabric dyed in dusty pink.
How to combine neutral tones?
Neutral tones are fresh, bring warmth and are present in the most relaxed looks of summer. They soften out and are discreet enough to make the details of the garments stand out. In this sense, they easily pass fade into the background with an unexpected colour touch. This season, the neutrals combine with stylish burnt orange, chocolate-brown appeasers, the ivory tones – the fake whites – and the pink tones. It is not a season of excessive contrasts, rather of complementary shades that are simple and elegant without effort. Blessed discretion!
Embossed fabrics
As we noted above, the colour gives prominence to the fabric as you can see in the trend “Flor de Cala Blanca” on our website. Textures, outlines, floral motifs … give this counterpoint to details with fabrics that are pleasing to the eye and touch. Also to be seen are blends such as chiffon and silk combined with crochet and the most original jacquards. Finally, matt textures prevail. Better without shine.
If you want to discover the universe of neutral tones and textures, we invite you to discover the seasonal fabrics in our shop where we can advise you better.
The hottest month of the year coincides with the colour that makes us blush: flame red with orange hues that reminds us of flames in motion. This lively and passionate tonality ignites summer looks with its fascinating power of attraction.
This season red is being worn in monochrome blocks maximizing its visibility: carmine, garnet, red currant, scarlet or coral shades in matt or glossy fabrics. The key is the same colouration. On the catwalk, for example, companies such as Valentino have not hesitated in going for flame reds in dresses with subtle prints, Dior too with their transparent tulle skirts and Kenzo or Balmain with low - cut garments. As well Oscar de la Renta with ruffles on dresses, Salvatore Ferragamo with original two - piece suits or Isabel Marant, who presents this vibrant color with metallic sparkles in an throw-back to to outfits inspired by the eighties.
How to combine red?
Red is a flattering color that works by itself, although sometimes the combination with other tones makes it acquire new nuances. Beyond the classic blends with white or navy blue so characteristic of the looks of Mediterranean - style red is allied with other less frequent colours to take us out of our comfort zone. For example, Emilio Pucci goes for mixing it with turquoise, where red is relegated to the background. Valentino and Gucci intermingle it with pink in one of the most striking chromatic alliances. Meanwhile Balmain dares to align red with purple in a glaringly strident combination.
Burning fabrics
The reddish hues constitute one of our inspirations of the season, as you can see in the trend “Hawaiian Flower” on our website. In it you can find an assortment of fabrics with totally different textures, all with the same common denominator: red. Some flirt with floral lace, silk satin sheen, embossed mikados or jacquards with geometric motifs. Diversity is the taste.
At all events, we invite you to discover all the fabrics impregnated with the most ardent Pantone colour in our shop where we will be able to offer you further advice.
