After New York and London it is the turn of Madrid in the month par excellence of the fashion catwalks. The Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid from today until September 19th becomes the creative universe for Spanish design in the 66th edition which will be held in Hall 14.1 of the IFEMA trade-fair in Madrid, as well as elsewhere in the Spanish capital.

In this edition, the fashion-parade is bringing together the creations of 47 designers and brands presenting innovations for next season, Spring-Summer 2018. New features are incorporated into the programme with offerings from the celebrated company Palomo Spain and from García Madrid, Isabel Núñez, Maria Clé, Manemané, Pepa Salazar, Chromosome Residence and Juan Carlos Pajares. The latter, who is a keen advocate of our fabrics, usually casts a glance in our direction through the designs he presents on the catwalk. We will see how he delights us this time…

Among the usual designers who each year are part of the calendar, Gratacos also wants to make special mention of Teresa Helbig, who will present the collection ‘ Rien ne va plus’ with three key fabrics: python, chainmail and eel-skin in a design inspired by the glamour of a luxury casino. For their part, The 2nd Skin Co will present a collection that gathers together and symbolizes the tenth anniversary of the brand through the fabrics, patterns, silhouettes and colours of the renowned Madrid company that extols the eternal femininity of women. Also featuring on the cat-walk will be Menchén Tomás. The company of designer Olga Menchén made its debut last year on the Madrid cat-walk and will be repeating the experience with its latest feminine collection.

Apart from the calendar of fashion-parades, from the MFBWMadrid we would like to highlight the featuring of OFF, where other aspects of fashion will be on show. Some have already taken place, such as the presentations by Duarte Madrid, Miguel Marinero, Pilar Dalbat and Moisés Nieto, whose year-by-year confidence in us we much appreciate. On 16th September parade by JCPajares will be held and on 21st September the presentations by Euphemio Fernández and The Stoat.

Lastly, one date we like to keep a close eye on is the fashion-parade of emerging talent held by Samsung EGO, which is a key element for show-casing the talent of new generations. As you well know, we are keen to support emerging designers. We won’t miss a single detail!

Teresa Helbig is having a year full of celebrations and it’s no less than she deserves. She has been in the job for 20 years, in a world she has felt part of since childhood, amongst the fashions and fabrics of the haute couture studio where her mother Teresa worked. Her main mentor and together with her the rock base of the company. After an initial period in window display where she displayed with elegance the Gratacós shop windows in the legendary shop in Paseo de Gracia, the call to creativity crept up on the designer almost imperceptibly. It was at a party and all down to a spectacular dress with hand sewn feathers that she herself created. From there the first orders came and the made to measure outfits that she herself produced with her own personal style: feminine and rebellious at once. The phenomenon spread rapidly by word of mouth into the top spheres. It was then in 1966 that Teresa Helbig opened the doors of her studio in Barcelona Eixample, where it still is today. With a mixture of happiness, vertigo, a degree of fear, but really with a huge amount of happiness.

In these two decades in the job, Teresa Helbig has continued to enjoy her many successes and to learn from her disappointments, always remaining true to her coquettish “battle” style – for her warrier princesses – and her philosophy, which combines workmanship and passion for detail, seeking perfection via accessories and fabrics of the very top quality. And here we are proud that the designer is a Gratacós regular when it comes to selecting fabrics to later convert them into stunning dresses, draper shorts or 70s style blouses. Her famous “jewel garments” inspired in the muses of the sixties and seventies such as Brigitte Bardot and Jane Birkin, amongst other specific cultural references. Nowadays the “Helbig Gang” –the Helbig girls – are no other than the actresses Macarena Gómez or Úrsula Corberó, fans of her designs. Together with the Barcelona firm the latter have filmed a new short fashion film –which will soon see the light of the day.

Standing out amongst all the new elements of this year, and after a stunning commemorative parade in September on the Madrid catwalk which paid tribute to dance, is the launch of her first line of perfume. These are three fragrances inspired by the designer’s universe: “Teresa”, “Bullfog” and “Tanger” created jointly with the firm Carner Barcelona. Teresa Helbig also makes use of her online shop to further promote national and international sales. The icing on the cake of the celebrations of this memorable year, was a touching party and exhibition in the Sants Hivernacle of her most iconic dresses, accompanied by 20 thoughts that sum up the essential Helbig. Elegant and seductive models with that hint of rebelliousness such as the Medusa dress or the Little Black Dress which never fails. It’s not for nothing that this woman Teresa Helbig never goes unnoticed.

*Photography: Nuria Cienfuegos

September is the month of Fashion with new editions of the most prestigious fashion catwalks worldwide. After New York, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid takes place in the Spanish capital. This upmost important event with the “made in Spain” design, takes place from the 15th to the 20th September in the exhibition hall 14.1 of the IFEMA Madrid trade fair.

The show brings together 41 Spanish creators (and 1 international designer from Kiev) who will present their Spring-Summer 2017 collections in an innovative way. The novelties include the incorporation of the creator Leandro Cano and also Malne, a brand created by Juanjo Mánez and Paloma Álvarez of unique and elegant garments. These conclude the catwalk shows of established designers in this edition.

Gratacós would like to highlight the participation of Catalan designers who confide in the family business. For example Andrés Sardá or Teresa Helbig and also other Spanish creators that receive their support such as Ángel Schlesser, Roberto Torreta, Juan Vidal, Amaya Arzuaga or The 2nd Skin Co, amongst others.

As is the custom, the last day of the catwalk show is dedicated to emerging design with a new edition of Samsung EGO. Furthermore, 15 young creators will present their designs in the Cibelesespacio Samsung Ego Showroom, with direct sales to the public during the days of the event. In this category, Gratacós would like to mention two young designers with a promising career:

1. Xevi Fernández

This designer from Empordà, studied in Barcelona in the Institut Català de la Moda. During his training, he won various competitions including ‘Young Talent Prize Bread & Butter’ 2009 in Berlín. His first collection “Nuclear” was awarded the prize of Best Masculine Collection by Creamoda in Bilbao. Xevi Fernández carried out his first work together with the designer Josep Font and this is where his interest began in the handicraft aspect of Haute Couture. The young designer has already participated in the Madrid catwalk show with his latest collection “The Last Future”, a collection with futuristic airs that reflects upon technology and society.

2. Juan Carlos Pajares

This 23 year old designer from Guadalajara is one of the fashion entrepreneurs with most influence. He studied in Saint Martins school in London and debuted last year in the Samsung Ego catwalk show with his collection Form Follow Function’ that did not leave anyone indifferent. So much so that some Spanish celebrities such as Nieves Álvarez, Berta Vázquez or Dafne Fernández have already been seen wearing some of his outfits at different events.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid was a big success ! Gratacós was present at the collections of  Amaya Arzuaga, Andrés Sardá, ANGEL SCHLESSER, Francis Montesinos, Teresa Helbig y THE 2ND SKIN CO.

Crepe Verde en la colección de Amaya Arzuaga

Tul Paillettes Oro en la colección de Andrés Sardá

                 Fantasía Paillete Oro en la colección de Andrés Sardá                        

Rayas Paillettes en la colección de Ángel Schlesser

                                                   Crepe Naranja para Amaya Arzuaga

Mikado Blanco en la colección de THE 2ND SKIN CO.

Jacquard Lame Rojo para la colección de Ángel Schlesser

Paillettes de Rayas en la colección de Francis Montesinos 

Patinado Plomo para la colección de Francis Montesinos 

Satén Seda Verde Agua para la colección de Ángel Schlesser 

Paillettes Rayas para Francis Montesinos 

Tul Bordado de flores en la colección de Francis Montesinos 

Tul piel para la colección de Amaya Arzuaga 

Georgette Ocre para la colección de Teresa Helbig 

Un Tul Bordado de flores para Francis Montesinos 

Saten Seda Nude para THE 2ND SKIN CO. 

Saten Seda en Amarillo para THE 2ND SKIN CO.