The intersection of 57th Street and 5th Avenue in Manhattan provisionally has a new name “Bill Cunningham Corner” and pays tribute to the legendary photographer and fashion portraitist who died three weeks ago at 87. This is where Bill Cunningham used to position himself on top of his old bike with his Nikon camera on his particular hunt down of the most striking styles. Indigo blue blazers, beige trousers and an astuteness to spot fabrics, accessories and details on his targets. Whether every day passers by or famous celebrities such as Greta Garbo who he captured walking down the street without recognizing her. “I’m only interested in their outfit” he used to say. He later displayed his results in the The New Work Times in a photographic column for New York fashion that since 1978 became one of the most sought after sections for the readers.
In fact, the mission of this legendary visual chronicler was to identify each week the fashion trends in the city. His portraits reflected the extravagant characters he came across, just as long as they were in line with that aura of style he looked for. The director of Vogue, Anne Wintour, suggested “we all dress up for Bill”. In 2008, the French government awarded him the “Legion de Honor” prize and in 2009 he was nominated “living legend” of New York. In the same city where he carried out his work, always taking a discreet back seat, seeking out the groundbreaking street fashion, which was really what was successful off the catwalks. Not for nothing, he was referred to as the street style king amongst New York society.
In 2010, the documentary, “Bill Cunningham New York” directed by Richard Press talked about the person behind the character. An audiovisual piece of work that revealed that Bill was much more than a street photographic and his passion for fashion was as equally intense as his work ethics. He was born in Boston in 1929, in the bosom of an Irish family, and before the New York Times he worked for the Chicago Tribune and the Daily News. He started out designing hats and later progressed to the magazines Details and Women’s Wear Daily. In 1967 he owned his first camera and could not give up his hobby of photographing people to document everything that caught his attention.
Bill Cunningham took off in an avid industry of individualisms and passing phenomena. Everybody wanted to be in one of his instant photos but Bill stayed on the sidelines. Even when he assisted the most prestigious fashion shows and high key parties, the visual chronicler maintained his distance. “This way you can be more objective” he assured. Actually, money never interested Bill, known for his modesty and austerity. “Money is the cheapest thing that exists. The most expensive is freedom” he used to say. And we all know that style cannot be bought, even at a time of extreme consumerism. These enduring principles and his expertise on picking up on the peculiarities of the New Yorkers outfits, have glorified the figure of Bill Cunningham leaving behind a deep legacy – aswell as a lesson in life inside the ephemeral empire. In his obituary, the editor of the Times was very precise “The powerful and rich in the fashion world wanted him by their side, but he remained one of most charming, kind and humble persons I have ever met. We have lost a legend and I am personally distraught to have lost a friend, concluded with regret Arthur Ochs Sulzberger Jr.
