The Olympic Issue. A stunning editorial by Mariano Moreno and Vogue World Paris 2024.
Fashion, a reflection of each society, is present in all areas and silently analyzes what it represents. At the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, one of the largest showcases in the world, it could not be less. Millions of eyes of different nationalities have observed the presentations of the uniforms in recent days, and will analyze, without being experts in the matter, the details of the opening show with their clothing created for the occasion, as well as the outfits of the athletes who will star in each of the sporting feats. We are curious by nature, and the Olympic Games teach us that style does not have to be at odds with the competitive spirit.
What must be considered?
Uniforms represent the media focus where the relationship between fashion and sport becomes more evident, especially in recent years. This relationship is beneficial as long as one does not engulf the other, something that these days is giving something to talk about both for its successes and for some mistakes, generating a large number of memes. Behind every uniform is a needle: the participation of a renowned designer or brand that promises to take the relationship between fashion and sport to a new level. Although aesthetics are key when representing the culture and style of each country, we must never forget the main objectives of these special suits: comfort and functionality. An Olympic uniform must be practical. It is at the service of athletes and its mission is to ensure the best performance. Furthermore, they are not worn by models with normative and standardized measurements, quite the opposite. Athletes champion a diversity of bodies with diverse morphologies and this physical diversity must be taken into account when looking for a design that feels good and is comfortable. That said, combining aesthetics with functionality is no easy task, and this is reflected in the results. Everyone wants to project a cool and modern image of their country, after all, athletes are the representatives of their land in the eyes of the world, but no one wants to look ridiculous or wear clothes that look like a moving flag. Therefore, the uniform also plays an important role in the confidence and self-esteem of each athlete.
Most representative uniforms of the Olympic Games
The different delegations have presented the uniforms that their athletes will wear throughout the competition. The proposals are very varied, seeking this perfect formula between modernity and identity, and aesthetics with functionality. Some countries, such as Italy and France, have taken the opportunity to show the great fashion design potential they have. Other delegations, such as Spain or Japan, have presented more practical proposals that are far from design. We review the most interesting proposals without overlooking some successes and errors.
As host country, France has collaborated with Le Coq Sportif and Stéphane Ashpool to design a uniform adapted to both Olympic and Paralympic athletes, reflecting the essence of the culture and love of sport of the host country. The nineties-inspired t-shirts and sweatshirts are already a bestseller by achieving a fusion between fashion, sports and patriotism without fanfare. In the United Kingdom they have opted for a brand that represents English design and elegance: Ben Sherman. Dressed by mods in the 60s, this brand has always been characterized by encapsulating the magic of the unique British style. In addition to the colours of the Union Jack, the brand has added flowers to almost all the pieces in the Olympic and Paralympic collection.
Italy has trusted one of the great names in the history of fashion: Giorgio Armani. Their designs present a set of elegant and minimalist garments with navy blue as the main colour. On the sweatshirts, the word “Italy” in large white letters captures all the attention. Some critical voices claim that the result has been a bit dull, due to high expectations. The United States has once again trusted Ralph Lauren, a name synonymous with American fashion, to design its team’s uniforms. It has been doing so since 2008. This time, with a focus on sustainability, the uniforms are made from recycled materials, proving that eco-friendly fashion can also be stylish. Red, white and blue accents pay homage to the American flag, while modern silhouettes ensure maximum performance and comfort. Although the official uniform has been well received, Nike’s women’s track and field jersey has not been without controversy. Lauren Fleshman , former United States champion in the 5,000 meters, criticized the technical suit for its poor coverage.
Spain has opted for sustainability as a central axis. The Joma brand, in charge of the official equipment of Spanish athletes, has designed a collection that fuses tradition with modernity, making garments in high-performance fabrics inspired by the carnation, capturing the essence of Spanish culture with a contemporary touch. The kit has received mixed reviews: while some praise the chosen aesthetic, others compare it to the Iberia uniform. In Japan, faithful to their minimalism, they have trusted Asics, a flagship of the Japanese country, with a non-artificial proposal so that all the attention goes to the achievements of the athletes.
Other uniforms that have received good reviews have been those of Ethiopia. Adidas has created a uniform with a current and modern design for Ethiopian athletes. In Canada , Lululemon has designed a summer uniform focusing on adaptability, thermal comfort, fit and functionality, and national pride. The gender-neutral kit combines functionality and style through innovative construction and high-performance fabrics, with modern silhouettes and Canadian-inspired prints. In Australia, some critics have pointed out the length of the kit skirts and trousers. The Australian uniforms, designed by Sports Craft, present some similarities with Spanish clothing.
Finally, although in stylistic matters the colours vary, there is no doubt that some countries have won public opinion with sports uniforms that deserve an Olympic medal. This has been the case of Haiti. Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean has collaborated with painter Philippe Dodard to create designs for the delegation that combine elegance and creativity. In terms of uniforms, Mongolia has presented the best design for its delegation, with intricately embroidered vests, pleated tunics and accessories inspired by traditional clothing. The designs are the work of Michel & Amazonka, a Ulaanbaatar -based brand that produces couture and ready-to-wear garments that “express the essence of Mongolian tradition and culture” in what the brand calls a “light contemporary”.
